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dusty2221
01-15-2016, 11:28 PM
Got right to work when it got here from Oregon. It's been done for a while now but I never took many photos. I have a few small touches left before this version is really compete, just some minor LED lighting on the in-boat speakers I think. Came out like this:

3 Exile 30.2 amps - 1 powering each pair of Surf 9's
3 Pair Surf 9s
1 Exile 15.4 amp - powers the in boats
3 Pair Exile sx65m cabins
1 Exile 20.1 amp - Powers the Sub
JL 12w7 in a custom built to JL Spec ported box. Resined interior and Line X on the exterior
Custom built sub facade with custom made cover from Gatorstep to match the flooring.
Exile ZLD MK II Zone Control
Dash panel extension to mount ZLD thru to tie it into the dash vs just having it hang
4 Interstate GC2-XHD 6 volt batteries
Promariner Pronautic 1250p - 50 amp on board charger
800w Hard wired inverter with hidden power port

First couple shots are of the finished amp rack. Vinyl covered panel with Plexi over the cutout. LED's around the edging of the Plexi. The panel is mounted to studs on the main rack so it can be easily removed and our of the way for full access to the amps.
http://i.imgur.com/jSyCwOa.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SNjqJcM.jpg

All 4 stereo batteries and the 12v crank battery are under this housing.
http://i.imgur.com/3Jzb3mi.jpg

4 6 Volt batteries requires a mega charger to keep up with the demand that could present itself if we come in completely depleted, which is possible.
http://i.imgur.com/0yqIlOJ.jpg

dusty2221
01-15-2016, 11:33 PM
Few shots of the In boats with the lights turned on. Still considering adding the LED rings behind the inboats vs wiring them inside the grill of the speaker so the cone is illuminated like the 24 was.

http://i.imgur.com/V1po2ob.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/azeu5tI.jpg

Top right corner, hard wired with a togggle switch to turn on the inverter. We use this a ton to blow up the tube for beach days. Had one in the 24 that was hard wired but under the seat, this is much more user friendly. Weatherproof/Watertight cap seals it off.
http://i.imgur.com/bm46jCz.jpg

Dash panel I made so the ZLD flows with the bottom of the dash. The vinyl is very close to the oem and in person it looks like it flows right into it.
http://i.imgur.com/STlJyUf.jpg

dusty2221
01-15-2016, 11:37 PM
Here is the beast! JL 12w7 Anniversary. To say it moves air is an understatement. I've gotten in trouble a few times for shaking the walls of the house.
http://i.imgur.com/IKSQsrp.jpg

Another
http://i.imgur.com/HTSQXbX.jpg

And finally....tower of power. Supra made it real easy for the outside pairs, the inner pair required it be drilled and new wire pulled. I had all of the Exile Hardware powdered black so it pretty much disappears. Also, I kept the flag mounts from the 24 cuz you know we gotta fly that Texas Flag!
http://i.imgur.com/yO5Fx6X.jpg

Front shot
http://i.imgur.com/ELzsmVs.jpg

I have a few shots of the amp rack build if anyone is interested in seeing those I'll add them.

dusty2221
01-15-2016, 11:43 PM
I'll go ahead and add em. Spent a lot of time making sure all the wiring was clean and tidy.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160116/843b862a827b35d9e9db416d1290d70a.jpg

This is the sub facade prior to the 12w7. There was a sealed 15" sub behind it. Quickly removed.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160116/931f0e90b36f01a1e9019885641ea103.jpg

Made the template and sent it to gatorstep, they nailed it.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160116/5a054e14019bc4b0013d633fd6d50a59.jpg

Woah.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160116/131cbbc85d4a3bffd0537503653561ed.jpg

dusty2221
01-15-2016, 11:48 PM
Last set
Internal bracing on a sub that weighs nearly 50 pounds is essential!
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160116/52d7cc703e9bd52345bbb5ce7da4684a.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160116/184c17500fad49015243c134dc89bb05.jpg

After Line X
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160116/2fc85791e49bc9828791516d59c9f8ff.jpg

I handled every single piece of this project myself except fot building the sub box. I wanted it to be built to spec per JL so that every bit of the subs ability could be shown. I know where my skill ends, and this was the end of that road. This box is no joke. Javier at Earmark knocked it out of the park.

KG's Supra24
01-16-2016, 12:00 AM
Dang, even I hadn't seen all those! Killed it as usual.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mPR-XGGAhSM/UCT1o3_HLwI/AAAAAAAAEKg/wpZ2xDiWTuY/s1600/Unimpressed-girl-McKayla-Maroney-meme-1.jpg

ghebert1111
01-16-2016, 12:22 AM
Wow! Beautiful.

BamaMojo
01-16-2016, 03:03 AM
Nice work Dusty! Looking at the pics makes me want to come to Tx ...when it warms up.....


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mcdye
01-16-2016, 09:11 AM
Very impressive. Awesome job!!!

David Analog
01-16-2016, 10:18 AM
Nice planning. Nice execution.

One of the less obvious things is the back side of the amp panel. It looks good but it's much harder when you completely conceal the amplifier wiring to not have a rat's nest behind the panel. And it's some work to have clean service loops so that you can pull the rack out if needed for service without dismantling every wire. Very few people reveal what's behind the amp rack. I appreciate the extra thought and time that went into that.

New Guy
01-16-2016, 10:34 AM
Nice Dusty you nailed it! I still have 2 12w7's sitting around that I might have to have a project for. How many watts are you putting to the sub?

rdlangston13
01-16-2016, 10:39 AM
That looks super clean. I bet have the port compartment open from both ends really helps in working in there with the amps and wiring. It is sp hard for me to get back there in mine. I guess you mounted all the amps to the rack before installing the rack and then installed it all as one piece? This makes my install look like a kindergartners finger painting.

CFD3Captain
01-16-2016, 10:43 AM
Wow!! Very Nice!

dusty2221
01-16-2016, 10:53 AM
Thanks guys, appreciate the comments.

Langston, the storage locker is insane. I am able to sit Indian style and not be hunched over while working in there. You are correct, once the panel comes off the entire rack can be disconnected and pulled from the boat if need be. The front and rear access makes it very convenient. The starboard side is the same in regards to accessing both sides which made securing the giant sub box very easy.

David, thank you sir. I bet a laid out all my wires 5 different directions on the rack before securing a single one! After install I found I brain farted on a single wire and I haven't gone back to correct yet. I took the advice you and Phil have traditionally offered and got power/ground for the zld direct from the sub amp since it is the largest. I mistakenly grabbed remote power from it rather than my remote power terminal block that feeds everything else. As soon as I flipped the switch the first time I had that little thump through the sub. I'll get that fixed soon!



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bergermaister
01-16-2016, 11:49 AM
That is nuts! Nice work Dusty. Was at the PDX boat show last night hoping to drool on an SE but they didn't have any on the floor.

mmandley
01-16-2016, 12:16 PM
That is nuts! Nice work Dusty. Was at the PDX boat show last night hoping to drool on an SE but they didn't have any on the floor.

Nice work Dusty

Yea AWS was going to use Shane boat for the SE display but there was some issues in manufacturing so it didn't make it.

newty
01-16-2016, 05:22 PM
Looks good Dusty! Very clean.

Woody929
01-17-2016, 02:13 AM
So you went Surf 9s this time... :-)

viking
01-17-2016, 12:40 PM
Very Nice work! Gotta love Audio Ballast.
With all that weight on the port side you are going to lean without counter weight! LOL

Brianinpdx
01-17-2016, 03:45 PM
Hey Dusty - Looks super fine. Or as Rabecka's daughter says, "that looks FLEAK". I gotta keep up with the new lingo man! really like the fit and finish level of detail you got going on. You've got to be mighty proud of this work friend. Bottom line--- hows it sound???? So glad to see you in that boat. It's #legitness

jmvotto
01-18-2016, 11:22 PM
Insane work dusty on an insane ride ...:cool:

kaneboats
01-19-2016, 11:47 AM
Incredible install. Gotta keep up your rep. Had a feeling you'd keep that flag holder.

dusty2221
01-25-2016, 04:55 PM
Welp, went ahead and added the lighting inside the speakers. Not a huge increase in light but a nice little touch I thought.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160125/7114f88d7d386dbc29d8da0e62393151.jpg

smorris7
01-25-2016, 05:06 PM
What did you use on those?


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jmvotto
01-25-2016, 05:22 PM
What did you use on those?


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yep I am interested too

dusty2221
01-25-2016, 05:49 PM
Used these, http://www.ebay.com/itm/252237414038?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

On the 24 I used individual LED's, these were way less time consuming. Ended up cutting about 3 or 4" off of each strip, but other than that it's a simple stick em around the tweeter, use a bit of glue in addition to the double sided tape, glue the tiny power wire down the backside of the grill to get it to the edge and around speaker, wire in and done. I used spade connectors and heat shrinked them so the grills can still be removed without having to cut anything.

sivs1
01-25-2016, 06:00 PM
are the mounted to the grill or speaker? Looks great.

dusty2221
01-25-2016, 06:03 PM
They are mounted to the speaker grill, around the tweeter.

moombadaze
01-26-2016, 08:23 AM
Dusty, very, very nice install, your setting the bar with this one

dusty2221
01-26-2016, 08:26 AM
Thanks sir!

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dusty2221
03-03-2016, 01:54 PM
Things have gotten colorful around here lately

http://i.imgur.com/BlMBU07.jpg

dusty2221
03-10-2016, 12:34 PM
http://maxcdn.fooyoh.com/files/attach/images/1097/077/693/007/Colors.jpg

KG's Supra24
03-10-2016, 01:00 PM
Simmer down. Wait until your homey get's into the rainbow

trayson
03-10-2016, 01:27 PM
RGB is over-rated.

KG's Supra24
03-10-2016, 01:46 PM
RGB is over-rated.

In amazon stars? On the richter scale? What you talking about?

trayson
03-10-2016, 01:55 PM
In amazon stars? On the richter scale? What you talking about?

I thought all this "colorful" rainbow talk was about plans to go from single color LED lighting to RGB LED lighting... (so my thoughts is that the ability to have RGB or RGB-W led lighting isn't worth the extra cost and effort wiring more conductors because I tend to only ever use one color).

Maybe you just like colorful rainbows...
http://20px.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/unicorn_pooping_a_rainbow_20px.jpg

In which case, I digress.

KG's Supra24
03-10-2016, 01:58 PM
No, you (mostly) nailed it on the RGB's .... didn't understand them being overrated, though.

trayson
03-10-2016, 02:08 PM
No, you (mostly) nailed it on the RGB's .... didn't understand them being overrated, though.

I seriously thought about going full tilt with RGB-W's in multi zone. Having red/white and Blue/white for 4th of july. having other combos available. But when looking at the effort of running special 5 conductor wire and all the connectors and added expense for other colors I'd rarely use deterred me. It was so much easier to just tap the court light circuit and be done with it. For me, it's blue and be done with it.

Overrated was in the dictionary sense of the word. "to rate or appraise too highly; overestimate". That the benefits are overrated when taken relative to the time/effort/money and realistic usefulness.

KG's Supra24
03-10-2016, 02:13 PM
I can agree on a single color being easier. Overrated ... guess it depends how you use the boat. Price seems incremental but it def does require time.

Now multiple zones ... there is a way to add pazazz to even RGB's. Hmmmmm

viking
03-10-2016, 04:51 PM
depends on starting point. If single now and pondering RGB then yes doing nothing is easier!!
But if wiring your boat fresh for LED's and saying RBG is too much hassle is way overstating the difficulty and cost.

trayson
03-10-2016, 05:48 PM
depends on starting point. If single now and pondering RGB then yes doing nothing is easier!!
But if wiring your boat fresh for LED's and saying RBG is too much hassle is way overstating the difficulty and cost.

I guess I was thinking about my own experience. with my boat, I had 8 conductors worth of wiring already going through my tower for the tower speakers (4 channels with a pair of conductors to each of the 4 cans). When I upgraded my tower amp, I went to a 2 channel (instead of the previous 4 channel) which allowed me to repurpose the remaining 4 conductors to power the LED's that I added for rings and cone lighting. Not having to pull wire through my tower was a big savings of effort IMO.

Likewise, when I added the LED speaker rings and cone lighting to my in boat speakers, I just spliced into the wires that were already there for the pair of court lights. Same thing when I added more surface mount LED's as accent lights... Just finding the nearest location for the court lights made it super easy.

Right now my boat has 10 LED speaker rings (will eventually be 16) and 8 LED angel eyes lighting up the cones (will eventually be 12). I have 8 surface mount LED's (will be a handful more by the time I'm done). And will soon be putting in LED cupholders (already purchased for my 12 cupholders). If I needed to do a 5 conductor splice for every single one of those LED locations, that would be a big increase over just wiring in 2 conductor. (or I would have to purchase the special splicers like pictured below, making it easier, but more expensive).

Also, I was looking at having to use the special 5 conductor wire and the special splicers all over (rather than just using whatever leftover speaker wire I happened to have laying around).
http://www.lightingnext.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/5/p/5pin_wire_connector_for_rgbw_led_light_strip-2_1.jpg

I mean, yeah, if you can wire 2 conductor, you can wire 5. so it's not like it'd be any new skill set. But for me, it was enough of a deterrent that I decided to be content with just blue. (not having to re-wire the tower was a big part of that decision for me).

dusty2221
03-10-2016, 05:57 PM
I've played with a few of those connectors, the trashcan is the only place they belong. I used them on the Harley lighting and regret not soldering from the beginning. Soldering is the only way to go.

KG's Supra24
03-10-2016, 05:59 PM
Soldering is overrated.

trayson
03-10-2016, 06:03 PM
I've played with a few of those connectors, the trashcan is the only place they belong. I used them on the Harley lighting and regret not soldering from the beginning. Soldering is the only way to go.

I know I'm really bad at soldering. Maybe my equipment sucks or the solder I am using sucks. But I can never seem to get that solder to suck into the wire fibers. How long does it take you to solder a wire connection? I use a wire stripping tool and a ratcheting crimper for butt connectors and the time per connection is minimal. I'm just curious how much longer someone that doesn't suck at soldering would take vs. using crimp/butt connectors?

(honest question)


Soldering is overrated.

LMAO!

dusty2221
03-10-2016, 06:08 PM
About 3 minutes per light on average I guess. Step by step in that 3 minutes would include: Cutting the strip to length, cutting the silicone back to expose the solder contact on the lights, pre-tin the solder contacts on the strip, strip the wire tips, pre tin the tips of the wire, solder all 4 wires, shrink wrap the end of the strip.

That's about as quick as I can go, first few attempts took a bit longer. Once I learned the key was to pre tin the strip AND the wires it got immensely faster.

trayson
03-10-2016, 07:04 PM
About 3 minutes per light on average I guess. Step by step in that 3 minutes would include: Cutting the strip to length, cutting the silicone back to expose the solder contact on the lights, pre-tin the solder contacts on the strip, strip the wire tips, pre tin the tips of the wire, solder all 4 wires, shrink wrap the end of the strip.

That's about as quick as I can go, first few attempts took a bit longer. Once I learned the key was to pre tin the strip AND the wires it got immensely faster.

I applaud your skills. (no sarcasm). Seriously. I think that I probably need a better soldering gun/iron, better solder, better technique, and MORE PATIENCE. Your installs on this thread look badass. Serious attention to detail. My LED's look great until you look on the backsides of things and see all my butt connectors and stuff.

dusty2221
03-10-2016, 07:10 PM
I'm still an amateur for sure compared to some others, but thanks.

nitrodude24
03-13-2016, 04:30 AM
Trayson get you some rosin Flux will make you a pro

dusty2221
03-15-2016, 04:08 PM
Back on track, bench testing in what was a completely pitch black garage.

http://i.imgur.com/hdeRkTq.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZyoBUJ1.jpg

mmandley
03-15-2016, 06:25 PM
Working on underwater Lights?

dusty2221
03-17-2016, 03:05 PM
6000 Lumens of U/W lights, you bet!

dusty2221
03-19-2016, 09:57 AM
http://i.imgur.com/78A9IKa.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pKRx23W.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ANnFMZ5.jpg

dusty2221
03-19-2016, 10:05 AM
Lumitec Seablaze Spectrum RGB. Rated at 3k Lumens each light.

http://i.imgur.com/8Awmjf8.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DVi7628.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/39WOckL.jpg

rdlangston13
03-19-2016, 10:20 AM
That's very very nice


Sent from my iPhone

DFTR Josh
03-19-2016, 10:24 AM
Nice work on the lights! ALL the lights.

moombacraze
03-19-2016, 10:29 AM
That turned out awesome! Nice work.

wolfeman131
03-19-2016, 10:33 AM
Impressed doesn't even come close.

Can I haul my boat to TX for a little lovin' or would that create a catastrophic void in the bromance?

New Guy
03-19-2016, 10:54 AM
Dusty that is sick man! Awesome job with everything!

mmandley
03-19-2016, 10:55 AM
Nice bro, saw it last week LOL

KG's Supra24
03-19-2016, 10:01 PM
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/19/681310ed24edf479158c9e8932366812.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/19/503c5a843a917d71e1f9d003503bf040.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/19/331963fda5e773e921e674af687292d7.jpg





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jmvotto
03-19-2016, 10:08 PM
All I can say is WOW......

dusty2221
03-19-2016, 10:23 PM
Thanks guys, gotta lot of hours into it all. All that's left on the list is a little led noise troubleshooting. Working with Odin on getting it knocked out.

I had a vision in my head of the end result and it definitely surpassed what I had imagined.

KGs Mojo is parked next to it and teardown has begun!

jmvotto
03-19-2016, 10:34 PM
You have quick disconnects on the towers for the LEDs too?

dusty2221
03-19-2016, 11:29 PM
Yes sir, went with the same plug I think Ian used.

letitsnow
03-20-2016, 06:05 PM
Amazing job! looks like brutal amounts of hours in beer and labor! how did you wire the leds on the xm 9s? Do you see the wire or is it hidden some how? Again you rocked that install!

ian ashton
03-20-2016, 06:22 PM
What LED controller(s) are you using?

KG's Supra24
03-20-2016, 09:22 PM
What LED controller(s) are you using?

The remote is a T3M synchronization controller. It gives the ability to control multiple zones on one remote. In synch or independent.

http://www.ltechonline.com/old/product/img/T3M-4_big.jpg


The individual controllers, 1 per zone, are the T3-5a RGB receiver controller. Dusty has 4 zones and maintains the factory redundant controls. Each zone can be turned on through the Vision screen or the manual switch. The remote then controls each zones color, speed, brightness independently or in synch.

In hindsight, the T3x controller should also be considered.

If you fast forward to the end of this video, it will give you a good idea of how it controls the zones

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qi4zzlnKMtg

viking
03-20-2016, 09:33 PM
Looks great. Only thing missing is the LED rub rail :)

dusty2221
03-20-2016, 09:39 PM
I've got enough "law attractant" on this thing, the rubrail led would be a little to much!


KG covered the controller/remote details. I did 4 independent zones of rgb. Floor, speakers (tweeters), mid level (above cupholders), and tower/exterior which includes vents and transom cupholders.

The T3x seems like a solid remote, it has a few more features, however, the T3m is loaded with them. I don't plan on replacing. The ease of use is amazing and the quality is right there with it. Highly recomended for anyone in the rgb project mode.

jmvotto
03-21-2016, 09:25 AM
any lights in NY that interfere with the high Nav light attract the Po Po, :mad:

BrokeGuy
04-04-2016, 10:28 PM
What lights did you buy for the speakers and such. Also where from? I'm also looking for a set of awesome underwater lights.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

dusty2221
04-04-2016, 11:47 PM
Amazon, Supernight 5050 Rgb Waterproof.

My transom lights are the new Lumitec RGB lights. Hodgesmarine.com can't be beat pricewise for these that I found. Same on the on board chargers.

BrokeGuy
04-05-2016, 09:26 AM
Are they brighter than the factory underwater lights?

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KG's Supra24
04-05-2016, 10:10 AM
Are they brighter than the factory underwater lights?


I had the opportunity to see them side by side in the garage .... and hung my head.

Guess we will see how much difference there is once we put them on the water but I'm betting it's quite noticeable.

nitrodude24
04-09-2016, 03:22 PM
Few shots of the In boats with the lights turned on. Still considering adding the LED rings behind the inboats vs wiring them inside the grill of the speaker so the cone is illuminated like the 24 was.

http://i.imgur.com/V1po2ob.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/azeu5tI.jpg

Top right corner, hard wired with a togggle switch to turn on the inverter. We use this a ton to blow up the tube for beach days. Had one in the 24 that was hard wired but under the seat, this is much more user friendly. Weatherproof/Watertight cap seals it off.
http://i.imgur.com/bm46jCz.jpg

Dash panel I made so the ZLD flows with the bottom of the dash. The vinyl is very close to the oem and in person it looks like it flows right into it.
http://i.imgur.com/STlJyUf.jpg

Dusty do you or can you get a side picture of your zld mounting box? I want to build one similar for my ws420 in our new sg.

Thanks

dusty2221
04-11-2016, 04:18 PM
I will try to remember to grab a photo. My approach is simple, that is a vinyl wrapped panel that I shaped to fit the bottom edge of the dash and made the cutout for the ZLD. The ZLD slides thru the piece, very snuggly, and then I used the brackets that mount the ZLD to hold the whole thing on the dash just like it would be mounted without the panel I made. I just mount it all where I wanted it and used the adjustability of the brackets to put it at the angle I want and made it follow tightly to the bottom of the dash.

supra790
03-13-2017, 01:41 PM
I hate that the stereo in my SG doesn't have a separate head unit. I miss the manual controls of my ws420. Are you guys adding a head unit to your systems or is there a way to add the ZLD or ws420 to it ? It seems like every time I turn off the engine or switch riders I have to readjust the stereo or make sure it is still set the same?

dusty2221
03-13-2017, 01:49 PM
The traditional H/U is gone, but in my case I have the Polk UM1. The control unit for it has all of the traditional RCA outputs like what you are used to seeing on the back of a H/U. On my SE, the control box was on the amp ramp in the port locker. Tie it in just as you would if it were behind your headunit. Main RCA out from the control box to the EQ of your choice, then RCA for each zone from EQ back to each amp.

TrueKaotik
03-14-2017, 08:58 AM
I hate that the stereo in my SG doesn't have a separate head unit. I miss the manual controls of my ws420. Are you guys adding a head unit to your systems or is there a way to add the ZLD or ws420 to it ? It seems like every time I turn off the engine or switch riders I have to readjust the stereo or make sure it is still set the same?
Can you explain a bit better? What is changing when cycling the key? The volume setting or other things? Adding a 420 won't change what's happening inside the hidden radio or black box connected to your digital dash when cycling the key.
BUT to answer you, yes, you can add a 420 to it.

supra790
03-14-2017, 10:19 AM
Can you explain a bit better? What is changing when cycling the key? The volume setting or other things? Adding a 420 won't change what's happening inside the hidden radio or black box connected to your digital dash when cycling the key.
BUT to answer you, yes, you can add a 420 to it.
All of the zone controls are adjusted/saved individually for each riding profile, surfing, on the go, back to dock, etc. I just want it to always be the same unless I manually change it, and I don't want to have to change it for every profile everytime I make a change. My plan is to remove the inputs from the amp and add a hidden box or head unit with a 420 and leave the original wires from the control tucked away in case I ever needed to return it to the original factory set up?

2016 Supra SG 450