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MoombaSouthAfrica
11-09-2015, 10:04 AM
Hi All

Firstly its my first post so learning as I go and apologies if I mess up a few of the rules along the way. I have a problem with my 2006 Mobius LSV, I had just upgraded the ballasts to 750lbs in both rear lockers and took it out for a test, no problems so we loaded up with some mates and hit the lake for a wakeboard session. It ran very well until about midway into the session when the engine just spluttered and died. I have had my fair share of vapour lock issues so tried the usual water on pump story but it just wouldn't restart. I have tried numerous things all learned from these forums but I just cannot get it to start again. Also I am in South Africa so there are no such things as dealers just some local boat mechanics who I imagine lack the tools and resources to diagnose 100%.

SO here is what I have tried to date: Please bear in mind I am mechanically inept :)

1. Checked all the usual fuel issues - I cannot get my hands on a pressure tester but there is fuel flowing from the shraeder valve and the fuel pump does prime.
2. I poured fuel into the throttle body but again the engine just cranks but wont start
3. Checked the kill switch - but with it off not even the fuel pump primes so almost sure its not that
4. I checked the spark into the distributor and it is good and quite strong
5. Recently however I checked the spark leaving the distributor towards the plugs and there was nothing. Leading me to believe it is something in the distributor.
6. Removed the distributor cap and the rotor and the arm still turns albeit slowly
7. I tried cleaning the rotor and the points but still no luck
8. I did eventually notice that the plastic rotor was slightly damaged underneath where it connects to the rotor shaft. The little plastic extrusion seems like it has broken off at the top and this leads me to believe that it is not sliding into the grove in the shaft and therefore not turning with the shaft - I have ordered a new rotor but would like to know if what I have described is even possible. I have attached a picture of the underside of the rotor which shows the damage albeit difficult to see.

23237

Any advice would be welcome, it kinda feels like I am shooting in the dark here. Has this happened to anyone else as I cant find a similar thread on the forum. Anyways thanks to all for the great forum it has helped me a lot. Hope if this turns out to be my problem I can return the favour

brain_rinse
11-09-2015, 10:52 AM
If you had strong spark coming in and nothing going out I'd say you likely found the problem. If not, definitely report back and we will see if we can help.

mmandley
11-09-2015, 11:56 AM
The component the wires that are going into the Distributor and plugging into is called a Ignition Control module. I would look at replacing it, its pretty old and tends to fail suddenly without much warning.

MoombaSouthAfrica
11-10-2015, 07:12 AM
The component the wires that are going into the Distributor and plugging into is called a Ignition Control module. I would look at replacing it, its pretty old and tends to fail suddenly without much warning.


Am I correct in assuming then that the main spark into the distributor will fail. i.e. No Spark in?

mmandley
11-10-2015, 11:39 AM
Am I correct in assuming then that the main spark into the distributor will fail. i.e. No Spark in?


Ok let me look at this a little different.

If you have voltage into the coil and nothing out, the coil is bad. If you are talking that you have spark from the coil going into the distributor cap and nothing coming out then the cap or rotor is bad. The coil wire going into <should be a flat distributor cap> if that is producing spark then you should replace the cap and rotor assembly. Normally they replace these both at the 100hr service interval.

If you replace these and its still not working < not likely> I would look at your coil voltage. I am bettering you cap and rotor are worn out.

MoombaSouthAfrica
11-11-2015, 04:43 AM
Ok let me look at this a little different.

If you have voltage into the coil and nothing out, the coil is bad. If you are talking that you have spark from the coil going into the distributor cap and nothing coming out then the cap or rotor is bad. The coil wire going into <should be a flat distributor cap> if that is producing spark then you should replace the cap and rotor assembly. Normally they replace these both at the 100hr service interval.

If you replace these and its still not working < not likely> I would look at your coil voltage. I am bettering you cap and rotor are worn out.

Great thanks for advice that is was i was leaning towards but locating parts down here is proving very difficult. I have managed to track down a rotor but the distributor cap alas not (It is still the older delco distributor - so not the flat one). I have ordered one online (skidim) but no idea how long it may take to ship to this end of the world.

I will replace the rotor this weekend and check and report back but I have a sneaky suspicion it may be the cap. I tried testing with a 9v battery and light at home (Boat is at lake unfortunately and brought the cap and rotor home) and while I could get current through all the points, I could not get any through main central point, but not knowing mechanics too well Im not sure if the carbon pin is not actually connected directly but rather has a gap for the spark to ark from external point to carbon pin on inside of cap?

Will let you know how I come on after this weekend. Again many thanks for the advice

kaneboats
11-12-2015, 12:23 PM
When you get her all fixed up please post some pics of where you ride in S. Africa. We'd love to see them.

MoombaSouthAfrica
11-16-2015, 05:13 AM
OK, so it looks like I'm sorted .... well mostly. Turned out to be the rotor, popped the new one in and she fired up first time. However not sure if its just because the spark is stronger now, but if I open to WOT she stutters around 4000 rpm.

Put her straight on the water and warmed up and opened her up and she was fine at cruising / wakeboard speed but if I opened her up fully she just seemed to jerk / stutter and wouldnt go over about 3900 rpm. Parked and waited a few hours.
Tried again but then had major issues - think largely due to vapour lock - but backfired and definitely missed a few strokes. So just left it for a while and re-tried much later.
Started no problem but again would jerk around 4000rpm. Same thing following day but then could at least get to around 4400 rpm and stutter seemed a little less.

I'm leaning towards spark-plugs but no ruling out dirty fuel - as last time I filled her it was with fuel that sat over winter (4 months) in my boat shed.

Lastly I also cannot find my fuel filter I have followed the pipes from the tank to water strainer (has a filter in it) to fuel pump then straight into fuel rail??? Confused not sure whether filter in strainer is sufficient or if filter is attached to underside of fuel pump.

Kaneboats - I tried to attach some older pics of where we ride (still my old outboard), but im getting an error. Will try a separate post. Will also update with newer photos when I get a chance to fully stretch the Moombas legs :)

MoombaSouthAfrica
11-16-2015, 05:18 AM
SOme of the older pics of where i ride. These are from 2012 will update after a good ride on the Moomba

mmandley
11-16-2015, 09:13 AM
OK, so it looks like I'm sorted .... well mostly. Turned out to be the rotor, popped the new one in and she fired up first time. However not sure if its just because the spark is stronger now, but if I open to WOT she stutters around 4000 rpm.

Put her straight on the water and warmed up and opened her up and she was fine at cruising / wakeboard speed but if I opened her up fully she just seemed to jerk / stutter and wouldnt go over about 3900 rpm. Parked and waited a few hours.
Tried again but then had major issues - think largely due to vapour lock - but backfired and definitely missed a few strokes. So just left it for a while and re-tried much later.
Started no problem but again would jerk around 4000rpm. Same thing following day but then could at least get to around 4400 rpm and stutter seemed a little less.

I'm leaning towards spark-plugs but no ruling out dirty fuel - as last time I filled her it was with fuel that sat over winter (4 months) in my boat shed.

Lastly I also cannot find my fuel filter I have followed the pipes from the tank to water strainer (has a filter in it) to fuel pump then straight into fuel rail??? Confused not sure whether filter in strainer is sufficient or if filter is attached to underside of fuel pump.

Kaneboats - I tried to attach some older pics of where we ride (still my old outboard), but im getting an error. Will try a separate post. Will also update with newer photos when I get a chance to fully stretch the Moombas legs :)


I would agree you should change plugs and wires if you have not. They definitely can give you fits at higher RPM.
Fuel filter, most Moombas I have seen don't have water separators, but I have seen them on them, I have one on mine actually. The filter should be before the pump, between the pump and tank outlet to the pump.
If you don't have one it is surprising but not being the original owner wouldn't surprise me if someone removed it. I would reinstall the standard line filter if you have none to protect your pump. Maybe do a little research on the water strainer, maybe it acts as both water strainer / fuel filter.

Also the backfire concerns me. This typically means you are out of time on the engine. With not being able to get to full RPM with out issues your timing might be slightly off. Easy way to know is use a timing light, the other way if your crafty, have someone drive the boat and you can slightly turn the distributor, too fare either direction and the engine will run really bad. I would mark the base before you do this so you know what your starting point was. Also it only takes a small amount of movement to change a lot. Were talking timing degrees, so 10-20 degrees + or - will do a lot. Just loosen the clamp bolt on your distributor enough to move it, not so much its loose.

I would still replace the plugs and wires if they were on the boat when you got it.

Poison
11-16-2015, 10:56 AM
I changed the distributor cap, rotor, and plugs in my 2007 this year. When I got it all back together I had some serious backfiring/stuttering. It wound up being the spark plug wires. Consider changing those out and see where you're at. Once I replaced mine, everything ran great. I guess they don't like being removed and then reinstalled once they reach a certain age.

mmandley
11-16-2015, 09:38 PM
I changed the distributor cap, rotor, and plugs in my 2007 this year. When I got it all back together I had some serious backfiring/stuttering. It wound up being the spark plug wires. Consider changing those out and see where you're at. Once I replaced mine, everything ran great. I guess they don't like being removed and then reinstalled once they reach a certain age.

Yea they are finicky, they tend to dry out internally from heat. They crack really easy and then loss efficiency.

MoombaSouthAfrica
08-29-2017, 07:40 AM
Strolling across old threads and saw this one started by me. Realized I hadn't fed back on resolution so to help out others who have this issues here goes

After getting boat running again (rotor), I was still experiencing the misfiring and stuttering at higher revs. Replaced distributor cap, no major changes. Turned out Poison and MMandley were right, the plug wires were completely fried. Some even had visible external wear on them from rubbing on engine components over the years. Replaced the wires and she is up an running again with no issues. Just remember to connect plugs in correct order.

But problem solved so thank you all for the help, invaluable this forum is in a country with no authorized dealers

Poison
08-29-2017, 08:37 AM
Strolling across old threads and saw this one started by me. Realized I hadn't fed back on resolution so to help out others who have this issues here goes

After getting boat running again (rotor), I was still experiencing the misfiring and stuttering at higher revs. Replaced distributor cap, no major changes. Turned out Poison and MMandley were right, the plug wires were completely fried. Some even had visible external wear on them from rubbing on engine components over the years. Replaced the wires and she is up an running again with no issues. Just remember to connect plugs in correct order.

But problem solved so thank you all for the help, invaluable this forum is in a country with no authorized dealers

Thanks for closing the loop on this. Always helpful for future reference to post the solution so that others can learn.

I remember my bout with those plug wires, thought I had screwed up my boat with my DIY (un)skills. Was so relieved it was just a simple change out.


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