Raptor Winterization

[jeamk03]

So, unfortunately, I won't be able to go out for a few weeks. I decided I would get on winterizing. Hoping some others can answer a few questions I have. Here's what I did:

Raw Water Pump-Removed impeller and got about a teaspoon of water. I had to lubricate and bump the motor to remove. I plan on leaving the impeller out and putting the cap back on for winter. Also, I noticed there was a blue wing-nut style plug in the line coming off the pump to the heat exchange. It's not mentioned in the manual, but I removed it and water drained from the hose.

Exhaust Manifolds-I removed two brass hex bolts from each exhaust manifold. Got a lot of water. The Indmar manual indicates that there is a hose that runs between the left and right manifold, but I could find no such hose. I suspect the two plugs are all that is needed and no hose exists. Can anyone confirm?

Heat Exchanger - I removed the hex plug with anode. Had plenty of anode left. The manual says to leave it out until summerization. But, I've read that my fittings could rust. Should I just plug it back up despite the manual guidance?

Transmission - I removed the plug that is right below the coupling. A good amount of water was released. Are there any other spots on the transmission/V-drive? I looked, but did not see any.

I think everything else (fogging, ballast, etc) is similar to earlier models, so I'm comfortable. Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything Raptor specific.

[squeeg333]

I'm glad I found this post. Usually do all my own winterizations, but just picked up a new-to-me Supra SC400 and had the previous owner have the dealer winterize it since it's so damn cold. Was going thru the bag of plugs I got from the shop, and was trying to figure out where they all went.

I saw the blue wing nut thing, and now I know where that goes. I also have two brass hex plugs that look like the block drain plugs from the old Assaults. I couldn't find the hose between the exhaust manifolds that the manual talks about, so, now I know where those go. I've got the anode from the Heat Exchanger, and an Anode from the v-drive. So, I think I'm good. The shop didn't pull the impellar, but will probably replace at the beginning of the year just to be on the safe side.

It sounds like you hit everything that the shop did. I have heard that you don't want to fog these engines however due to the catalytic converters or sensors on the exhaust. I'm not sure how detrimental it is, but just something I have heard.

Long story short - I think you nailed it.

[squeeg333]

Oh, and to clarify - I don't think it'll matter if you leave the anode out or not. You can always put some antisieze or grease on the threads to protect them over the winter. The amount of corrosion should be minimal, and you could always chase the threads in the spring if you needed. Probably doesn't matter one way or the other.

The only thing that I know of, depending on your v-drive, is to pull a plug, somewhere. Mine is a plug/anode (indmar Ski-Vee) but the Walters V-drives have two drain plugs, and others say to pull the intake hose. Try to identify the type of v-drive, and I think the manual speaks to what to pull.

No winterization is needed on the tranny.

[jeamk03]

Thanks for the reply! Good to have confirmation that I did it right. I thought I would be done for the year, but been out a bit lately. So I'll be doing the process over soon.

The manual actually calls for fogging the cylinders directly through the plug holes. I'll double check that.

Congrats on the new new boat. Got to be hard to wait all winter to enjoy it.

[BensonWdby]

don't forget the hot water shower on the back of the boat.

[zabooda]

don't forget the hot water shower on the back of the boat.

I thought with dry suits and liability issues that the showers would be something of the past.

[squeeg333]

I was in contact with Larry at Indmar for something else, but asked about winterization. He sent me a pdf that showed all 5 individual drain plugs that one needs to pull on the 6.2L Ford engines (I can't for the life of me figure out how to upload it - PM me if you would like a copy).

He also mentioned if you have a cabin heater, it is run off the closed cooling system and does not utilize raw water for the heat transfer. So, there is no need to drain the heater core on these engines. A GREAT modification in my mind.

[rdlangston13]

I was in contact with Larry at Indmar for something else, but asked about winterization. He sent me a pdf that showed all 5 individual drain plugs that one needs to pull on the 6.2L Ford engines (I can't for the life of me figure out how to upload it - PM me if you would like a copy).

He also mentioned if you have a cabin heater, it is run off the closed cooling system and does not utilize raw water for the heat transfer. So, there is no need to drain the heater core on these engines. A GREAT modification in my mind.


I wouldn't think the raw water running through the heat exchanger would absorb enough heat to properly run a heater core.

[squeeg333]

Exactly my thoughts too. And it's just a bonus to not have to winterize the heater core - and worry that you missed some water somewhere.

[lsupcar]

I had an anode only on the transmission drain plug, but only a bolt but no anode on the heat exchanger drain plug.
Is this what others had as well? Or did you have the opposite or an anode on both?
Is one anode enough matter where it is located?
Thanks.
Bill Z

[jeamk03]

I had an anode only on the transmission drain plug, but only a bolt but no anode on the heat exchanger drain plug.
Is this what others had as well? Or did you have the opposite or an anode on both?
Is one anode enough matter where it is located?
Thanks.
Bill Z

Strange. I had an anode in both the v-drive and heat exchanger.

[DOCDRS]

not sure if the raptor has the j tube running from the t stat to the circ pump, this should be drained

[yz 2smoke]

Strange. I had an anode in both the v-drive and heat exchanger.

Same here, 1 in the v drive and 1 in the heat exchanger.

[CFD3Captain]

Here is the PDF @squeeg333 was sent from Indmar :)

[lsupcar]

For future reference, my heat exchanger drain plug does have an anode. I initially removed not the correct drain plug on the side as illustrated in the above photo, but what was actually the end cap bolt on the bottom. I reinstalled that bolt today and hopefully the exchanger will still be watertight.
Thanks everyone for the help.

[lee]

not sure if the raptor has the j tube running from the t stat to the circ pump, this should be drained

That will have antifreeze in it.

[Alerberg]

I would be thrilled if someone would have a start to finish checklist for winterizing the Raptor motor on a standard Mojo,Mondo,Helix, Craz... Here is what I have off the top of my head. Please feel free to add, subtract, modify, this list...

1. Add Stable to fuel (see bottle for proper amount)
2. Drive over to landing (Empty ballast on the way)
3. Load boat onto trailer
4. Remove Drain plugs
5. Park on slope (if possible) and re-run ballast pumps to remove any left over water
6. While oil is still warm, drain oil.
7. Remove and replace oil filter (Ford Motorcraft FL-820S) $3.99 at O'Reillys
8. Refill oil with 5W-30 Semi Synthetic (Blend) oil
9. Drain Water from the motor from the 5 points pictured/listed above
10. Pour RV Anti-Freeze into the ballast overflow ports (need someone to post pictures of these ports). Also how much?
11. Run pumps to make sure antifreeze is in the pump.
12. Put Drain plugs into zip lock baggie, tape to stearing wheel
13. Disconnect Battery (store in warm place and charge 1-3 times during winter)
14. Use Ducky to remove water stains
15. Wax the boat
16. Remove the snap in carpet, clean it, put in dry space (cabin if possible)
17. Clean the interior, using your products of choice
18. Cover the Boat
19. Sniffle... shuffle outside, look back at the boat a few times before you close the garage for the next 6 months.

MONDO

[wolfeman131]

I would be thrilled if someone would have a start to finish checklist for winterizing the Raptor motor on a standard Mojo,Mondo,Helix, Craz... Here is what I have off the top of my head. Please feel free to add, subtract, modify, this list...

1. Add Stable to fuel (see bottle for proper amount)
2. Drive over to landing (Empty ballast on the way)
3. Load boat onto trailer
4. Remove Drain plugs
5. Park on slope (if possible) and re-run ballast pumps to remove any left over water
6. While oil is still warm, drain oil.
7. Remove and replace oil filter (Ford Motorcraft FL-820S) $3.99 at O'Reillys
8. Refill oil with 5W-30 Semi Synthetic (Blend) oil
9. Drain Water from the motor from the 5 points pictured/listed above
10. Pour RV Anti-Freeze into the ballast overflow ports (need someone to post pictures of these ports). Also how much?
11. Run pumps to make sure antifreeze is in the pump.
12. Put Drain plugs into zip lock baggie, tape to stearing wheel
13. Disconnect Battery (store in warm place and charge 1-3 times during winter)
14. Use Ducky to remove water stains
15. Wax the boat
16. Remove the snap in carpet, clean it, put in dry space (cabin if possible)
17. Clean the interior, using your products of choice
18. Cover the Boat
19. Sniffle... shuffle outside, look back at the boat a few times before you close the garage for the next 6 months.

MONDO

terrible list & totally incomplete as there is no mention of cracking a cold one.

I'd disconnect the ballast bags & remove from the boat, put a capful of bleach in them, slosh it around, then fold & store.

[Alerberg]

I stand corrected... Thanks!