Mondo 2014 with 330 engine, oil change help

[bjrow]

Hey guys, sunshine has returned and the boat has clocked 20hrs so time to change the oil.
I've read lots of threads but no answers to my questions found as yet so hoping someone may be able to assist.
The oil drain hose that is clipped to a bracket on the motor, is this what people use to get the oil drained out?
The tube doesn't seem long enough to thread out the rear drain plug so was wondering what folk do.
Does anyone know what type/size thread I'd need for a brass fitting to be secured onto the hose fitting? Thinking that with a barbed end I could extend the existing drain line and thread it out the rear.
Look forward to your replies. BruceR.

[sandm]

I use this thru the dipstick tube. never had good luck with the drain hoses out the end.
http://www.oilchangekits.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/a551d612d5dd139d1cc6e2878ff1274a/p/e/pela_6000.jpg

[wolfeman131]

yes, use that line to extract the oil

no, it does not (nor is it made) extend out the drain plug hole. I believe some on here have extended the hose. Old thread, but has some ideas for you:

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?4057-Oil-Drain-Line-Question&highlight=extended+drain+hose

I use a fluid extractor and would steer you in that direction vs gravity drain.

[wolfeman131]

I just purchased this for end of season:

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/jabsco-flat-tank-economy-engine-oil-changer-system.html?utm_medium=cse&utm_source=bing

Have heard of and read a few posts warning about using the dip stick tube where the extraction line got hung up/lost and a lot of $$ was spent getting it corrected.

[mcdye]

Similar to Drew, I use a another system by Jabsco (PN 17850‑1012), They can be pricey, but man they do suck hot or cold fluid fast. I can drain all 3 fluids less than 10 min. I have had mine for since my first inboard, well worth to me. The pump hose is large enough to use a hose clamp directly on the oil pan drain hose. Then use the small tube for the Trans and Vdrive.

I too have read to many horror stories draining via the dipstick. The engine dipstick tubing does not extend to the bottom of the pan, so the plastic tube could curl once past the tube housing in the pan not getting as much as possible and could get hung when removing (pucker factor and $$). The plus about draining from the oil pan hose is you know you at the bottom of the pan getting all the old oil out.

[boater4life]

I have a 2014 Mondo with the 409 motor and my drain hose extends out through the drain plug, across the entire wake plate, and hangs over by about 6 inches. Not sure if your motor is different but can't imagine why it would be.

[wolfeman131]

I have a 2014 Mondo with the 409 motor and my drain hose extends out through the drain plug, across the entire wake plate, and hangs over by about 6 inches. Not sure if your motor is different but can't imagine why it would be.

he has the Aussie model

[smorris7]

I use this thru the dipstick tube. never had good luck with the drain hoses out the end.
http://www.oilchangekits.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/a551d612d5dd139d1cc6e2878ff1274a/p/e/pela_6000.jpg

I strongly suggest NOT using the dipstick hole. I have seen way to many post on it getting stuck or caught down in the hole. Use the drain hose with the oil extractor. Warm your oil to operating temps and it shouldn't take more than 10 to 15 mins to empty

[sandm]

would not recommend using it if the black plastic end does not protrude from the dipstick hole as mentioned could get stuck.
on my pcm ex343 engine, the plastic end of the extractor sticks out 4 or 5 inches.
have found the dipstick hole to be better with this extractor on pcm engines. did use the drain hose with the indmar ext340 in my supra.

[MJHSupra]

I just purchased this for end of season:

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/jabsco-flat-tank-economy-engine-oil-changer-system.html?utm_medium=cse&utm_source=bing

Have heard of and read a few posts warning about using the dip stick tube where the extraction line got hung up/lost and a lot of $$ was spent getting it corrected.

My vote goes for a system like this. I built one from a sprayer pump from Northern Tool. I think it was $30 or $40.
This is not the model, but close: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200587333_200587333
You can buy them with different sizes and types of inlet/outlet ports.

Got some clear hoses from Lowes.
Had a few ss clamps sitting around.
I had extra wire and battery clips. I made sure to add plenty of wire. Now adding switch.

I do not have it attached to anything, but my neighbor gave me a 3 gal bucket with a lid that I will attach it to. Been on my to-do list all summer.

It will look like that picture. Works great.

[beat taco]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/e96935998908f11e9ed54490fb4c99c2.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/664d0b76c3e761e139846f25394c698d.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/85a1b2e6c6405bf2552c627891d4f048.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/1820c5131101d4bc455777abe5c7e174.jpg

Everything you need to extract all the fluids from your boat with very little effort and no mess

[beat taco]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/a576d0d799d7f1f3fbf3f56cc7a51f41.jpg

On our boats the female air fitting threads onto the oil drain hose.

[bjrow]

Thanks guys, lots to look thru. Is the oil drain thread 3/8" npt?
The way my luck works I think I'll pass on the dipstick path and try a manual system to evacuate the oil via the oil drain tube.
Will warm the engine up first to get things warm.
Will take a look at the air fitting couplers to see if they screw on when the blanking cap is removed, probably metric fittings is all one can buy here but will sus out and see.
Thanks also for the tip about a bag around the oil filter, will use an Aluminium BBQ pan underneath as well, fingers crossed its not too hard to get off.
Cheers BruceR

[jstenger]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/e96935998908f11e9ed54490fb4c99c2.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/664d0b76c3e761e139846f25394c698d.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/85a1b2e6c6405bf2552c627891d4f048.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/1820c5131101d4bc455777abe5c7e174.jpg

Everything you need to extract all the fluids from your boat with very little effort and no mess
Is that a water pump with the hose fittings converted to NPT fittings?

[beat taco]

It's a fluid transfer pump, I got the cart and everything for around $120 at harbor freight.

[bjrow]

Wow what a weekend it's been, back to work for a rest!
Was a bit stressed out about this but since the dealer here in West Melbourne was of little help and lost his dealership (no surprise there actually) I figured I'd get my hands dirty and learn how to do this stuff myself. By the time I take it somewhere and get screwed I'd have the job done and know that it was done. The above mentioned dealer didn't change the oil or filter at the boats' first service and even refitted an alternator belt which came off and was split! No concern for my investment or family and our safety. Absolutely poor service all round. Sorry to vent there's no excuse for poor service in my book but better to pull one's head out of the sand and learn to be somewhat self reliant. The plus is I've a better understanding of the things to look for and keep an eye on.

We purchased many fittings to extend the oil drain hose, only one that fit was an older brass 1/4" something type of thread, all the newer ones would only run 1/2 to 1 turn. So with 2m of 3/8" power steering hose it was easy enough to stick it out the rear drain bung and connect to the oil drain tube.
A small 12V oil transfer pump purchased and we were set to go. Sucked out approx 4L oil with a bit of patience letting the last dregs come thru.
The PZ52 filter was a bast@#$% to get off!
Got the sucker off eventually, used the plastic bag trick and a BBQ Aluminum tray underneath to catch any oil, worked well.
Filled the new filter 1/2 way with new oil and filled the engine also, took the whole 5L. Started the engine up and ran fine.
The oil that came out was quite dark, no metalization (thank goodness) but having done many cars over the years I was surprised at the state of the oil after 20.2hrs of operation (since boat was new). Perhaps that is a running in oil??

Anyway, all good and with the filter being done up but not too tight I bet it will be and easy job next time, $$ and time saved.
Appreciate all your help, now ready for next weekend if the weather's all good.
Cheers BruceR

[jdcontango]

The quick drain hose coming off the block is 5/16 NPT brass hose fitting for those who want to make that hose longer to drain out the bilge drain hole or hook to a fluid pump. You can find 5/16 NPT brass hose fitting on Amazon.

[jstenger]

The quick drain hose coming off the block is 5/16 NPT brass hose fitting for those who want to make that hose longer to drain out the bilge drain hole or hook to a fluid pump. You can find 5/16 NPT brass hose fitting on Amazon.
Never heard of a 5/16 NPT. I believe it is a 1/4 NPT.

[VA LSV]

NPT stands for National Pipe Taper and there is nothing between 1/4" and 3/8". Drain hose is 1/4" NPT.

[jdcontango]

Tried a 3/8 NPT female, it was to large to fit the quick drain hose on my 2014 mondo. I ordered this 5/16 NPT female from amazon $5.97 and it fit perfectly to the male quick drain hose.

Interstate Pneumatics FFS245 Brass Hose Fitting, Connector, 1/4 Inch Swivel Barb x 5/16 Inch Female NPT End - 2 Piece

[jstenger]

Tried a 3/8 NPT female, it was to large to fit the quick drain hose on my 2014 mondo. I ordered this 5/16 NPT female from amazon $5.97 and it fit perfectly to the male quick drain hose.

Interstate Pneumatics FFS245 Brass Hose Fitting, Connector, 1/4 Inch Swivel Barb x 5/16 Inch Female NPT End - 2 Piece

The 5/16" is not the thread size, it is the tubing size for the barbed end. It is a 1/4" NPT fitting.

[bjrow]

Another question if I may;
We used a properly spec'd oil that was designed specifically for petrol engines with cats.
My question is would a properly spec'd diesel oil be a better option and be okay for the cats. Just thinking the diesel oil may have better longterm shear properties.
Our bands of oil here in Aus are quite different to what you guys have, maybe Mobil are the same. I used a NULON brand (don't think I've seen it in the USA) and they have a marine grade 15w40 but only describes it as for diesel engines. Just wondering.....
BruceR

[mmandley]

Another question if I may;
We used a properly spec'd oil that was designed specifically for petrol engines with cats.
My question is would a properly spec'd diesel oil be a better option and be okay for the cats. Just thinking the diesel oil may have better longterm shear properties.
Our bands of oil here in Aus are quite different to what you guys have, maybe Mobil are the same. I used a NULON brand (don't think I've seen it in the USA) and they have a marine grade 15w40 but only describes it as for diesel engines. Just wondering.....
BruceR

Honestly Engine Oil should never be a factor for your Cats. Oil should not be entering the Cats. if your Cat goes bad you have a larger problem then just a bad Cat, Cats don't go bad, they fail because Fuel, Oil is unburned and entering the exhaust.

I wouldn't worry so much about the type of oil you run vs your Cat engine or not, I would make sure the engine is not excessively burning oil, and you service the ignition system and tune the engine up on a regular basis. Clean change plugs every 200hrs, change cap and rotor every 200 change oil every 50hrs or seasonally depending on your type of boating.

As for Diesel Oil in a Gas engine, newer Diesels use low Surfer fuel and so the oils have less additives to combat that and other additives. Diesel oil does have other additives to clean the engine from soot and other by products. Take a read at this.

In the broadest sense, gas and diesel engine oils have the same anatomy or makeup. They are formulated from the blending of base oils and additives to achieve a set of desired performance characteristics. From this simple definition, we start to diverge when examining the lubricant’s required performance for each engine type.

Emissions and the Catalytic Converter

A catalytic converter is a housing that contains porous metal filler located between the engine and muffler in the exhaust system. Its role is to convert toxic emissions coming from the engine to stable byproducts before they enter the atmosphere. Some of the byproducts of combustion (lead, zinc and phosphorus) can severely cripple the converter’s ability to perform this job. Therein lies the first major difference between the oils. Diesel engine oils have a higher anti-wear (AW) load in the form of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP). The catalytic converters in diesel systems are designed to be able to deal with this problem, while the gasoline systems are not. This is one of the main reasons you don’t want to use a diesel engine oil in your gasoline engine.

Viscosity

Viscosity is the single most important property of a lubricant. When I am working as a consultant and designing a lubrication program, one of the first steps I take is to calculate required viscosities. Getting the right viscosity is of the utmost importance. The selected viscosity needs to be pumpable at the lowest start-up temperature while still protecting the components at in-service temperatures.

Typically, diesel engine oil will have a higher viscosity. If we were to put this higher viscosity in a gasoline engine, several problems might arise. The first is heat generation from internal fluid friction. I’ve covered before how this heat affects the life of an oil. A good rule of thumb is that for every 10 degrees C you increase the temperature, you cut the life in half. The second problem is the low-temperature pumpability of this higher viscosity. During cold starts, the oil may be very thick and difficult for the oil pump to deliver to the vital engine components in the lifter valley. This most certainly will lead to premature wear, as the components will be interacting without the benefit of lubrication.

dditive Levels

Diesel engine oil has more additives per volume. The most prevalent are overbase detergent additives. This additive has several jobs, but the main ones are to neutralize acids and clean. Diesel engines create a great deal more soot and combustion byproducts. Through blow-by, these find their way into the crankcase, forcing the oil to deal with them. When you put this extra additive load in a gasoline engine, the effects can be devastating to performance. The detergent will work as it is designed and try to clean the cylinder walls. This can have an adverse effect on the seal between the rings and liner, resulting in lost compression and efficiency.

So how do you know if an oil has been designed for gasoline or diesel engines? When reading a label, look for the API (American Petroleum Institute) doughnut. In the top section of this doughnut will be a service designation. This designation will either start with an “S” (service or spark ignition) for gasoline engines or a “C” (commercial or compression ignition) for diesel engines.

[uniwarking]

I'd suggest Mobil 1 15W50. It's what Indmar recommended when I contacted them. It's available everywhere, it's great oil and it can be had cheaply if you can find a decent source.


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[c h r i s]

Is that a Mobil 1 a synthetic? I was thinking about switching my '13 mojo with 5.7L to it next season but haven't reached 100hrs yet.

[bjrow]

Thanks for the replies.
Better to stick with what we've used for now then, will give the Mobil 1 15w50 syn a look at once we get to 100hrs but a few oil changes needed in-between first before we're at that point.
Cheers BruceR