Winterization differences

[Lapham]

So I winterized my 08 Lsv this weekend for the first time. We live in montana and the boat is stored in a unheated garage. I followed the direction in the Indmar manual. I am confident I did it right. I then spoke wi a friend that has same boat. He said he uses RV antifreeze rather than draining all the water from the v drive, motor, tranny cooler, etc,
He basically puts 4 to 5 gallons of RV antifreeze in the intake in front of the vdrive while boat is running idle until he sees pink come out the back.
Anyone else use RV antifreeze? Thoughts on the difference between draining and using RV anitfreeze. The antifreeze method seems much easier to do

[jstenger]

I do both. I drain all the water first. I then let the engine suck up about 6 gallons of pink stuff.

[mcdye]

I do RV antifreeze. I have the engine warmed up so the thermostat is open, change my oil/filter and then suck 5 gallons in at the vdrive inlet. I store my boat in a unheated basement garage, where I have never dropped below 40'. If I was further north and storing in the same environment, I would probably do the same but would drain all the existing water first to avoid diluting the antifreeze. A little extra work is a lot cheaper than replacing a cracked engine.

[gregski]

This question comes up from time to time. I don't know what the split would really be but it seems like it's close to 50/50 who leaves it dry vs. filling it with antifreeze. (I leave it dry). From a freeze damage perspective, you're safe with either method. The argument for antifreeze is to protect from rust.

[zabooda]

This question comes up from time to time. I don't know what the split would really be but it seems like it's close to 50/50 who leaves it dry vs. filling it with antifreeze. (I leave it dry). From a freeze damage perspective, you're safe with either method. The argument for antifreeze is to protect from rust.

X2. Been draining only for a quarter of a century now and it works fine. There is some risk with anitifreeze as there is very low water circulation in the heater lines and even though I never use the shower there is water in those lines and circulating the antifreeze through the system and analyzing the dilution is the only effective method. It does reduce internal corrosion but the corrosion is rather minimal.

You're talking about removing 10% of the water in all areas and cavities to eliminate freeze damage so it isn't rocket science.

[wolfeman131]

I HATE THIS THREAD!!!!!

It's too early to be putting the boat away. I want more summer.

[mjr119]

I am forced to end my season, until I figure out what's up with my Vdrive.

I wish I had a pond of antifreeze that I could just back the boat down into it and let it run for a while haha.

[Fastest1]

What is your vdrive doing?

[mjr119]

I have a thread on the issue in this sub forum.

[valleywine]

I do RV antifreeze. I have the engine warmed up so the thermostat is open, change my oil/filter and then suck 5 gallons in at the vdrive inlet. I store my boat in a unheated basement garage, where I have never dropped below 40'. If I was further north and storing in the same environment, I would probably do the same but would drain all the existing water first to avoid diluting the antifreeze. A little extra work is a lot cheaper than replacing a cracked engine.

I do the antifreeze method. The only thing different is I circulate the antifreeze after I'm sure the thermostat is open for about 15 minutes. I like the anti-corrosion properties of the RV pink antifreeze.

[newty]

I HATE THIS THREAD!!!!!

It's too early to be putting the boat away. I want more summer.
This^^^

I winterize boats all the time. Never use antifreeze. If you do it right, there is nothing to freeze.
If your not sure then by all means do a 50/50 mix.

[rdlangston13]

what do yall used to get anti freeze into the engine if you dont mind me asking?

[moombadaze]

if I had to do either I would drain the block-no chance of anything expanding and cracking

[sivs1]

What I am finding interesting about this thread and the many others preceding it on the same topic is that the members who are in a more southern area of the country use anti-freeze for the one week they get below freezing and those of us in the northern parts of the country just drain. I'm at 7,000 feet and we'll have at least a full month below freezing, night and day, I have never used anti-freeze and never plan to. Anti-freeze will freeze if it is cold enough, I would rather have nothing in the block/heater/hoses then have to worry when we hit -20 or -30.

[mjr119]

I live in NC and keep my boats in my garage. We do have some days and nights that stay below freezing but not many. I never winterized boats until this year. Got away with it for 8 years up until last year. During the winter of 2013-2014 I had a block crack on my old Centurion. I will always drain the block, manifolds, and transmission cooler from now on.

[mcdye]

what do yall used to get anti freeze into the engine if you dont mind me asking?

I use my homemade fakealake that I attach to my vdrive inlet, then a short hose into a 5 gallon bucket.

[Jordy Dag]

I do both. I live in northern BC Canada and we hit temperatures of -38 during our winters. I have always followed the exact same winterization technique since I was helping my dad as a kid. Here are my steps
Run engine on fake a lake and get it warm
Change engine oil, filter, fuel filter and velvet drive oil
Drain engine, manifolds, transom shower, heater, trans cooler, ballast, etc
Blow all with air.
Install all drain plugs
run plumbing antifreeze thru engine using fake a lake
Pull all plugs again draining pink stuff
Leave all plugs out when youre done.

Doing it this way, if there is any little bit of water left in the system it has been mixed with plumbing antifreeze. By leaving the plugs out if there is a slight chance there is any water left anywhere if it does decide to freeze, the pressure has somewhere to go.

[trayson]

Leave all plugs out when youre done.


The first year I winterized my Supra I left my plugs out. BIG mistake. the plug holes rusted and I had to go in and chase the rusted up threads come spring time. Nope, won't be leaving my plugs out ever again.

Once it's drained and blown out, there's not going to be anywhere near enough volume of residual fluid to cause any damage if it froze and expanded.

[beat taco]

I can't believe this has never caused him issues. I would strongly advise against leaving the plugs out.

[newty]

I can't believe this has never caused him issues. I would strongly advise against leaving the plugs out.
What's crazy is, that's how dealers do it so they can charge you to put them back in come spring. Complete racket.

[psycho-heico]

I too live in Canada, Calgary, Alberta, and we get the -35 degrees celcius, I drain my block and blow my lines, I follow the forum WINTERIZING picture thread step by step,the only parts I antifreeze are the small motor parts ie. ballast fill and drain pumps,and my heater core.I leave all my plugs out, spray the openings with WD40. We are very dry here, I would have to guess the reason for rust in areas such as Trayson, is due to the much higher humidity.....

[Jordy Dag]

Agreed with above. Also, I dont like taking plugs right out of the block- in and out in and out over and over again is hard on the cast threads. I have 3/8 to 1/4 inch brass adapters with 1/4 inch brass plugs for my block drains. You can pick them up at any hardware store and you never have to worry about rust or ruining cast threads in the block. Every boat Ive ever owned has these in the block. Check these out, Trayson:

http://www.amazon.com/Derale-98452-Female-Reducer-Bushings/dp/B004XORAZM#

[sivs1]

Agreed with above. Also, I dont like taking plugs right out of the block- in and out in and out over and over again is hard on the cast threads. I have 3/8 to 1/4 inch brass adapters with 1/4 inch brass plugs for my block drains. You can pick them up at any hardware store and you never have to worry about rust or ruining cast threads in the block. Every boat Ive ever owned has these in the block. Check these out, Trayson:

http://www.amazon.com/Derale-98452-Female-Reducer-Bushings/dp/B004XORAZM#

Agreed, I have one of these on each of my engine block drain plugs. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-Brass-FPT-Full-Port-Threaded-Ball-Valve-107-404EB/205821834

We can extend our season into late October with day temps still getting to 70, but night temps are into the 20's, so needed a quick way to drain the block, basically open these up at the ramp and drive home, only have to take 15 minutes to drain heater and hoses.

[trayson]

Agreed with above. Also, I dont like taking plugs right out of the block- in and out in and out over and over again is hard on the cast threads. I have 3/8 to 1/4 inch brass adapters with 1/4 inch brass plugs for my block drains. You can pick them up at any hardware store and you never have to worry about rust or ruining cast threads in the block. Every boat Ive ever owned has these in the block. Check these out, Trayson:

http://www.amazon.com/Derale-98452-Female-Reducer-Bushings/dp/B004XORAZM#

Cool idea.


Agreed, I have one of these on each of my engine block drain plugs. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-Brass-FPT-Full-Port-Threaded-Ball-Valve-107-404EB/205821834

We can extend our season into late October with day temps still getting to 70, but night temps are into the 20's, so needed a quick way to drain the block, basically open these up at the ramp and drive home, only have to take 15 minutes to drain heater and hoses.

Smart. Unfortunately with my engine, I couldn't do those for two of my "plugs" because they are where the knock sensors go on my engine block. Darn newer technology getting in the way.

[trayson]

I too live in Canada, Calgary, Alberta, and we get the -35 degrees celcius, I drain my block and blow my lines, I follow the forum WINTERIZING picture thread step by step,the only parts I antifreeze are the small motor parts ie. ballast fill and drain pumps,and my heater core.I leave all my plugs out, spray the openings with WD40. We are very dry here, I would have to guess the reason for rust in areas such as Trayson, is due to the much higher humidity.....

VERY VERY true. They don't call it the "Pacific NorthWET" for nothing! Yeah, for us, it just RAINS AND RAINS all winter long. My first boat had to spend a winter outside under the boat cover. Poor thing. Now for the newer boat we have a carport, so that makes all the difference.

[beat taco]

I left my exhaust plugs out one winter, threads destroyed. Put in brass inserts and plugs, new owner says he's experiencing galvanic corrosion. I know brass is pretty common in engines so not sure what the issue is there. The rest of the engine is now 24 years old and still fine. No issues with the cast threads that get removed, drained, and reinstalled each fall for the past 24 years.
I still can't see any good reason to leave them out. We get enough cold weather any water left in the system is going to create a problem.

[newty]

I left my exhaust plugs out one winter, threads destroyed. Put in brass inserts and plugs, new owner says he's experiencing galvanic corrosion. I know brass is pretty common in engines so not sure what the issue is there. The rest of the engine is now 24 years old and still fine. No issues with the cast threads that get removed, drained, and reinstalled each fall for the past 24 years.
I still can't see any good reason to leave them out. We get enough cold weather any water left in the system is going to create a problem.
Wait, you sold your Supra? What's next?

[beat taco]

Wait, you sold your Supra? What's next?
That was the Centurion. My new Supra is only 15 years old, lol.
However I have 2 buyers willing to give me what I want for it so I plan on being in the market soon. I want something beat to hell that has potential. Stupidly I want to start over.

[newty]

That was the Centurion. My new Supra is only 15 years old, lol.
However I have 2 buyers willing to give me what I want for it so I plan on being in the market soon. I want something beat to hell that has potential. Stupidly I want to start over.
Lol, your not asking enough. Got to aim high! I'll keep an eye out for you.
PM me, before you make a decision on selling, I've got a few folks looking for a boat like yours.

[beat taco]

First 20k in my hands owns it.

[Kidder522]

Hey fellas. Question about changing oil in trans and vdrive. Is it as easy as putting the oil extractor tube in the stick hole and sucking it out? Best to do it in the spring or fall? And do I need to run the boat on the water after I have replaced oil to make sure it is topped up?

Richard.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[beat taco]

Yes it is that easy. I always check my level after the first water run but have never had to add more. Doesn't mater when.

[Kidder522]

Thanks Beat Taco

On the calendar this weekend. Time to put my toy to bed for 8 Months!!!!:sad:

[White94RX]

I see no reason to fill with antifreeze. I drain everything. No liquid in motor, nothing to freeze.

[996scott]

Hey fellas. Question about changing oil in trans and vdrive. Is it as easy as putting the oil extractor tube in the stick hole and sucking it out? Best to do it in the spring or fall? And do I need to run the boat on the water after I have replaced oil to make sure it is topped up?

Richard.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have always read and believe it is best to change the oil in the fall so that you have clean oil sitting for several months as opposed to have the dirty/used oil with all it's contaminants sitting in the engine all winter.

[mjr119]

I winterized my boat yesterday. Time to put it to bed until I can find a vdrive and some warmer weather!

One question, I am having a hard time removing the bottom, "J" shaped radiator hose on the water pump (actual water pump, not impeller). How important is this to remove? I dont want to tear the hose trying to get it off. I removed both hoses from the impeller without issue, but the J - hose is really stuck on there.

[mjr119]

I have always read and believe it is best to change the oil in the fall so that you have clean oil sitting for several months as opposed to have the dirty/used oil with all it's contaminants sitting in the engine all winter.

Yep, fall for me. Historically, I put around 75-100 hours on a boat per season. So I change it after the first 1 or 2 outings of the season. Then it's good until the end of the season, which I will change the oil again (after ~75 hours of use or so). Then I may use the boat for 10 more hours or so after that, so the oil isn't completely spent.

[gregski]

One question, I am having a hard time removing the bottom, "J" shaped radiator hose on the water pump (actual water pump, not impeller). How important is this to remove? I dont want to tear the hose trying to get it off. I removed both hoses from the impeller without issue, but the J - hose is really stuck on there.
Absolutely imperative. When I remove mine, it is still full of water. If left, the best case scenario would be the hose splitting and then draining for you. Worst case would be damage to the water pump and/or engine.

[zabooda]

I winterized my boat yesterday. Time to put it to bed until I can find a vdrive and some warmer weather!

One question, I am having a hard time removing the bottom, "J" shaped radiator hose on the water pump (actual water pump, not impeller). How important is this to remove? I dont want to tear the hose trying to get it off. I removed both hoses from the impeller without issue, but the J - hose is really stuck on there.

Full of water in the hose. If you can't get the bottom off, then pour some antifreeze in. A couple of flathead screwdrivers under the hose usually breaks it loose.

[beat taco]

I have always read and believe it is best to change the oil in the fall so that you have clean oil sitting for several months as opposed to have the dirty/used oil with all it's contaminants sitting in the engine all winter.
Something about a rust ring on your oil pan, he was not asking about the engine however.

[jimmobius]

Used to drain everything and refill block with rv antifreeze. Not anymore , just drain everything , leave block plugs out, hoses off for a bit and drag boat around to slosh any water around in block , etc. Then install everything back in place. Works for me , past 2 boats.

[lee]

I winterized my boat yesterday. Time to put it to bed until I can find a vdrive and some warmer weather!

One question, I am having a hard time removing the bottom, "J" shaped radiator hose on the water pump (actual water pump, not impeller). How important is this to remove? I dont want to tear the hose trying to get it off. I removed both hoses from the impeller without issue, but the J - hose is really stuck on there.

Take a small phillips head screw driver and run it around the inside of the hose to break the seal. If not just fold it over to drain the water out.

[freshturk]

I've winterized my old LSV with the 330 in it a few times, but never the 350 in my supra. Anyone aware of any differences?

[jstenger]

I've winterized my old LSV with the 330 in it a few times, but never the 350 in my supra. Anyone aware of any differences?

Just a couple minor ones that I can think of.

1. No garden hose coupling on hose between manifolds. The hose self drains thru dripless seal.

2. Extra hose on each manifold on top.