Fake-A-Lake

[millerda68]

Built one of my own finally. Just a few bucks at Home Depot and about 10 minutes of time.

3/4" ball valve $3.35
3/4" plastic elbow (threaded) $.87
2 ea 1 3/4" hose clamps $1.96
1 5/8" OD x 1 1/4" ID hose $6.94

I put the ball valve on in case I need/want to shut off the water at the boat without having to get in and out. Sealed the threads with plumbers tape. Works great.

[Jceclipse01]

That's Nice I will have to make me one. Good job

[mcdye]

Same setup I have used for the last 5 years... A lot better configuration than using the plunger setup. imo

[Isaguel]

What is this? I am guessing this is used to run the motor in drydock?
Sorry, my first Inboard. I had I/O and Outboard. Used the rabbit ears to feed the boat water to run the motor in my driveway.

[rbeckner27]

Same setup I have used for the last 5 years... A lot better configuration than using the plunger setup. imo

I use the same setup as you but the only thing I don't like is having to unhook the regular through hull to hook it up so I am curious why it is better than the plunger type? Seems the plunger type would be faster and wouldn't even have to move the rear seat and trans cover.

[beat taco]

I use the same setup as you but the only thing I don't like is having to unhook the regular through hull to hook it up so I am curious why it is better than the plunger type? Seems the plunger type would be faster and wouldn't even have to move the rear seat and trans cover.
For me I'm only running it to do maintenance so everything is opened up anyway. I unhook the hose from the strainer and it seems easy enough, imo easier than crawling underneath. I don't trust the cup under the boat, never seems to get a solid connection and proper water flow.

[lee]

This what I use, hooks to the impeller housing intake port.


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lUe6ZVFdPGQ/Vet8x6gUk3I/AAAAAAAAMDo/wt5t-4Zvc80/w983-h553-no/20150323_210653.jpg

[valleywine]

I plumbed a tee and ball valve inline w/ the intake hose. Then I screwed a water heater hose into the tee and capped it. When I want to run it via a hose or recycle tub I simply uncap the outlet, hook up the supply and close the ball valve. Don't have to take anything apart. Works like a charm.

Either way, it's way better than the plunger IMO. No leaking water and you know the engine is cooling properly.

[bergermaister]

Can't go wrong with one of these if you don't want to engineer your own solution. I resisted for many years and finally pulled the trigger.

http://www.amazon.com/Perko-0456DP7-Marine-Flush-Valve/dp/B00144D86Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1441523500&sr=8-1&keywords=Perko+0456DP7+1-1%2F4%22+Marine+Flush+Pro+Valve

[parrothd]

I had one of those, great if not using it to winterize with antifreeze, it doesn't suck up the antifreeze or water so you have to rig something else up..

[jzelt]

I have made the homemade plunger and the hose connection like the orig poster. The plunger I had to wedge, and unless someone was outside the boat making sure it didn't get kicked over while I was moving around in the boat, bouncing the trailer, there was no way to make 100% sure it didn't get disconnected. Plus, there wasn't a great seal around the boat (which you need to suck in the antifreeze).
The straight connection to the v-drive works the best and agree with the ball valve. I can turn the hose on, turn the valve, start the engine and reverse sequence without needing assistance. Then drain the water, put a 5 gal bucket of antifreeze on the platform with a short hose, fire up the motor and suck in the antifreeze in 2 mins at most.

Your is a cleaner design then what I did.

[trayson]

I use the same setup as you but the only thing I don't like is having to unhook the regular through hull to hook it up so I am curious why it is better than the plunger type? Seems the plunger type would be faster and wouldn't even have to move the rear seat and trans cover.

I would use a Tee ball valve and you don't have to unhook anything.

http://cdn.valworx.com/images/uploads/5452_5058_large.jpg
you obviously want to get something with a T2 or T3 flow pattern as shown in the above pic. (or any flow pattern that shuts off one port and flows the other two).


I plumbed a tee and ball valve inline w/ the intake hose. Then I screwed a water heater hose into the tee and capped it. When I want to run it via a hose or recycle tub I simply uncap the outlet, hook up the supply and close the ball valve. Don't have to take anything apart. Works like a charm.

Either way, it's way better than the plunger IMO. No leaking water and you know the engine is cooling properly.

Not sure if you used a separate Tee and valve, or if you used a Tee that is a valve. Either way, yes, it's better than unhooking. Well done.


Can't go wrong with one of these if you don't want to engineer your own solution. I resisted for many years and finally pulled the trigger.

http://www.amazon.com/Perko-0456DP7-Marine-Flush-Valve/dp/B00144D86Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1441523500&sr=8-1&keywords=Perko+0456DP7+1-1%2F4%22+Marine+Flush+Pro+Valve

My boat came with one of these already, so I of course kept it.