Upgrading Stereo System Help

[Deekmann]

Longtime boater; however, I'm relatively new to the wake board/surf world and have a 2007 Moomba Mobius LSV. I'm looking to upgrade the stock stereo system by adding a sub, amps, and tower speakers. Where do I start with this? Can you purchase whole packages or do I need to buy everything separately? Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Deekmann]

I want enough power so I can hear music while surfing, but like many, don't need to go crazy or break the bank. Wondering if I can do this for about $1000.

[David Analog]

You can do it 'all' for $1000 but IMO the results would be disappointing and there is a good chance much of that gear would end up in the classifieds next season. You could easily spend $1000, or close, just for tower speakers. Maybe you need to if wake range projection is the goal. Far less is surf range is the goal.
It would help stretch your budget by making use of any existing equipment that is satisfactory and investing in what you don't have.
You are more likely to be satisfied over the long term by either bumping up the budget or building the system one area at a time, perhaps a portion this season and a portion next season.
When you add a subwoofer it becomes almost essential that you drive the in-boat speakers with external amplification also. There are single chassis amplifiers with enough channels to run in-boats, sub and towers, but usually you end up with two amplifiers to drive so many speakers.
So you are looking at tower speakers, subwoofer, sub enclosure (as an important element) and two amplifiers. Then you have the cost of wiring, connecting cables, distribution and fusing not to mention a fair amount of misc. hardware.
Start with clarifying your objectives, such as how you would be using your tower speakers. Then set realistic expectations as to how much you can accomplish within your budget and still be satisfied for the long haul.

[brain_rinse]

Do you have the Kenwood or Kicker cabin speakers? What amp?

[kaneboats]

Yes, it is helpful if you list all the equipment you currently have or have available to you. Then describe what your goals are. These guys can help you develop a short term plan that uses some of your existing equipment and a longer term plan that will get you to where you want to be. Most of the time they will encourage you to go zone by zone. Usually you want to start with your cabin equipment first b/c that will make the biggest difference in what you hear most of the time.

[Deekmann]

It's all Kenwood stock product and there is NO amp. It's lousy. I like the idea of the above post where I would do it in sections. I'm assuming I should start with replacing the head unit and all 6 in-boat stock speakers and power the new ones with an amp. Am I on the right track here?

[Brianinpdx]

Deek - The stereo is divided into 3 zones. Tower / Cabin / Sub. The sum of these zones contributes to the wow factor or dynamic range the boat will have. If your missing one zone (like no sub), or have one zone to dominant (huge tower upgrade), you'll have problems in the long run. However - I usually suggest people measure their budget against the goal. And that often can take 2-3 seasons to achieve.

I would start with the cabin zone first. Then move to the sub. then to the tower. Primarily because the tower will be the most expensive zone and used the least. If you have the ken woods and its lousy-- assume its all coming out. There are many great build threads on these pages. Talk to owners and ask what they have done and why. I think you'll find a consensus that you should slow it down, spend a bit more and do it right in stages.

-Brian

[brain_rinse]

It's all Kenwood stock product and there is NO amp. It's lousy. I like the idea of the above post where I would do it in sections. I'm assuming I should start with replacing the head unit and all 6 in-boat stock speakers and power the new ones with an amp. Am I on the right track here?
Yep, you're on the right track. Instead of a head unit (or in addition to) you might consider an EQ to give you zone control from the drivers seat. There are some nice 5 channel amps that will handle the cabin speakers and a sub, for not much more than a 4 channel that does the cabins only.

[Deekmann]

Sounds like a pretty logical roadmap to me. So, this year, and very soon, my purchase list might look something like this?
1. New deck w/cabin control
2. 5 channel amp
3. 6 new in-cabin speakers
4. Possibly add a sub with enclosure

I'm okay with all of the above going over $1000 as it looks like I will be doing this in stages.

Next year I can then focus on the tower system. So, if the above list is a good starting point, what products would some of you recommend?

[Deekmann]

I guess I could also just start with replacing the in-cabin speakers. Any comments on the Polk Audio DB 651's?

[parrothd]

Leave the stereo as is and buy a fresh air exhaust, makes the boat supper quiet, no fumes, plus you can actually talk to the surfer or guests in your boat. No need to make the radio louder... :)

Having said that I recently replaced my speakers with Polk Audio DB651 6.5-Inch Coaxial Speakers (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0PF9G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and Kenwood KAC-8406 4-Channel Car Amplifier (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IF9BR1E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a new head unit for around $500. You can buy the fresh air exhaust and the stereo for $1000.. :)

[brain_rinse]

Polk db651 is great budget option and you can probably find them online for <$60 bucks a pair. I guess you'll need to decide how much stereo you are ultimately want. My recommendation would be to enlarge the speaker holes and go with one of the 8" cabin speaker options.

[MLA]

1. New deck w/cabin control
2. 5 channel amp
3. 6 new in-cabin speakers
4. Possibly add a sub with enclosure

I like the idea of the 5 chnl hybrid amp for the in-boats and sub. I would go ahead and do the sub now. This way, theres no retuning the in-boat side of the amp after the sub is put in later. They are woven together and need to be tuned as a system and not as two individual components.

For a $100 bucks, you can get a new Kicker 12" woofer that sports a rubber surround, composite cone and aluminum basket. So not much more to step up and have a well rounded balanced system.

Ive had great success with the Kicker KZM800.5 marine 5 chnl. 400W rms on the sub chnl would be perfect for the Comp-S 12 2 ohm.

I like the Kicker KM654 in-boats. They come with a white and charcoal grill for your choice. Add an "L" to the part number and get the RGB LED version. Smooth sound and good mid-bass. Its .75" tweeter is not as aggressive as some 1" tweeters.

Or take BR's suggestion and go with a larger in-boat, like the Kicker KM8. Way more output and midbass, but I would really want to drive these with more wattage though. They really shine with 200W rms each

[Deekmann]

How about a 10" sub? Also, any good alternatives to the Kicker KZM800.5 amp? Looks pricey. I'm also leaning towards the Polk Audio DB651's. I can grab 6 of those pretty reasonably and the reviews I have read have been good.

1. Leave Kenwood deck in the boat for now.
2. Purchase 6, Polk Audio DB651 2-way 360W cabin speakers.
3. Still need some advice on 5-channel amp.
4. Sub - Can't you get pretty good bass from a 10" sub? If I get a 10" or a 12" do most build an enclosure or buy one?

[MLA]

A 10" woofer in the same class, is only $10 cheaper. A larger woofer is a more efficient way to get more output and also yields deeper bass.

You need an enclosure that is suitable for the marine environment. An off the shelf mobile audio box thats 5/8" MDF covered in trunk liner material will last a season. You may not notice unless you are really tuned in to the woofer's performance and hear it getting "muddy".

There are plenty of 5 chnl amps out there for sure, and less expensive ones. The reason I suggest the Kicker, is because its one that I trust without doubt, to recommend.

[Deekmann]

Thanks for the input. I'll check out the 12's.

[kaneboats]

I have a 12" sub in my LSV. Wouldn't consider anything smaller with the room you have. Save some coin and build your own box out of some hard wood like maple and coat it with resin.

[Deekmann]

Fresh air exhaust...interesting. I'll check it out and thanks.

[mikenehrkorn]

+1 on the FAE.....I love mine!!! And it does make a huge difference.

[Deekmann]

Just ordered 6 Polk Audio DB651's. Going to put those in to start...I'm really curious to see the difference just in making that one change. In the meantime, I'll take my time and continue to research some 5 channel amps, a 12" sub, and a new head unit.

I want to thank everyone for all of their input. Taking it step-by-step and breaking the sound system down into 3 sections was 'sound' advice. Not sure if people are interested or not, but I'll continue to post as my upgrades present themselves. I'm sure I'll have additional questions.

Great site...very helpful!

[Mikey]

Depending on what and how you want to do this. I am one of many that a couple years ago switched to the Polk DB651 inboard speakers. Personally to me it was a very dramatic change in sound quality. One that to this day i still get complimented on. I changed out my head unit to allow for more external out puts etc which the original head unit did not. I went with a Alpine Digital 5 channel amp, which was similar money to Kicker 5 channel, maybe slightly less and i went with the sealed Kicker Sub unit which for me sounds great.

I had and or have no intentions to have tower speakers as most music i/we listen to is during down time between ski sets etc. This system ROCKS yet was pretty budget minded, being slightly more than what your start point is. For me its all i want and need, yet still can be modified.

Like everything just a matter of how much you want and how much you are willing to spend. Go in steps and enjoy. Tons of good info and advice on here , take advantage and Good luck.

[MLA]

Just an FYI, the Alpine PDX-5M is currently $750, so $150 more than the kicker KXM800.5. $200 more then the previous ZXM700.5 A/B amp at the time the 700.5 was out.

[JHutch]

If you want a Kicker Amp, I feel this is a pretty good deal.

http://www.halfpricecaraudio.com/Kicker-ZXM700.5-5-Channel-Marine-Amplifier-750-Watts-RMS-10ZXM700.5.htm

[Deekmann]

Thanks for the info. I installed my new DB 651's and they do sound much better. Next up will be the head unit.

[Deekmann]

What head unit did you go with?

[Deekmann]

Didn't get one yet. I do want a head unit though... I know some are justing running an EQ. I do listen to the radio (Brewer games, etc.), so I definitely want one. There's so many to choose from.

[brain_rinse]

What head unit did you go with?


Didn't get one yet. I do want a head unit though... I know some are justing running an EQ. I do listen to the radio (Brewer games, etc.), so I definitely want one. There's so many to choose from.
You're doing your own Q&A now? :) You can just post updates - we are interested in your progress.

[CMAC21]

How are you guys saying he runs his 6 speakers and sub with the 5 channel.. Curious since I'm fixing to do the same. What speakers are you combining on the channels? Maybe I missed something but I'm double checking

[cornrickey]

$600 FAE is the first start. Hands down the best stereo upgrade for the money and you get rid of the exhaust issue.

[MLA]

How are you guys saying he runs his 6 speakers and sub with the 5 channel.. Curious since I'm fixing to do the same. What speakers are you combining on the channels? Maybe I missed something but I'm double checking

This a very common setup. In most cases, bow speakers are on the front half of the amp and the two pair on the main cabin are on the rear half.

[jonyb]

How are you guys saying he runs his 6 speakers and sub with the 5 channel.. Curious since I'm fixing to do the same. What speakers are you combining on the channels? Maybe I missed something but I'm double checking

Exactly what Mike said in the last post, but that can only happen if you have 4 ohm speakers. Polk has some now that are 2 ohm, so you have to watch out for that. As long as the speakers are 4 ohm, the 4 cockpit area speakers can be tied together on 2 channels, with the other 2 channels powering the bow, and obviously the sub on channel 5.

[MLA]

For a 2.7 ohm like the polk or 2 ohm like the Kicker KM652 or KM42, they can be wired in series. For a pair of 4 ohm, wire in parallel.

[Deekmann]

I had a pretty big laugh at that one.

[jonyb]

Pretty big laugh at what?