PDA

View Full Version : autoflow



callynoah
07-13-2015, 03:37 PM
I have a few more beginner questions. We have the auto flow surf edition on our 2015 mondo, ours was set for 60/50% starboard/port and a lot of people are increasing the port side % (70-100%)for goofy surfing. What dose increasing/decreasing the auto flow do to the wave, same with the middle wakeplate as a lot of people have this all the way up. My goofy wave is better (let out 50% of port ballast)as long as i am in the boat for the weight, but when I surf and my wife drives my wave is steep but not much of a pocket and no length and i can't let go of the rope as i am so close to the boat. (surf side full port 50% wake plate 50% auto flow 70% speed 10.3mph) any suggestions? you are all a great help trying to dial in this wave

thanks
kevin

mark540
07-13-2015, 04:26 PM
Run less weight port side. Are you running any weight up front? I run 100% port on the autoflow, i havent messed with other settings, so not sure how less would effect it. Running the wakeplate up will shorten, but steepen the wave giving more push, but in a shorter area.

i upgraded my bags, but i run goofy side full, it is an 1100, port side 20-25%, again 1100 pound bag, front 75%, or about 750 pounds. I run this for all riders, but for me 6' 6" and 275 lbs i run the wakeplate up and 10 mph. For the lighter riders, i run wakeplate in the middle and anywhere from 10.5 to 11 mph to lengthen the pocket.

Depending on your weight and board you will feel push from the wave, much different than someone else. A more bouyant board like a IS blue lake or red woody is going to push better than a squirt or fish with the same wave. Dont skimp on the board, it can make a wave that seems to have no or little push with one board, absolutely rocking with another board.

callynoah
07-14-2015, 12:06 AM
IBS and hard tank both full i have the stock 650lb bags in the back run the starboard side full and port 50% i tried the port auto flow at 70% what does increasing it to 100% do? were new to surfing and have a hyperlite broadcast board works great for my kids that surf regular they are ropeless after 4 runs, and my nephew who surfs goofy and is quite good dropped the rope right away and though the wave was way better then there old nautique i just can't dial it for myself when I'm out of the boat

mark540
07-14-2015, 01:06 AM
Since your a beginner, set it up for your wave, no weight on the port, full starboard and run a little less up front. You may wan to look to upgrade to a 900 on that side as well. I have been surfing since 2007 and i can say weight and a bouyant board are your friends. Run the plate at 100%, if you dont like it change it back. Most new riders don't toe the board into the wave, you need to first master getting into the wave and then front foot/back foot pressure to speed ip and slow down. Grab a video, that will help everyone take a look at several factors to help out.

callynoah
08-05-2015, 01:36 AM
Can someone explain to me what increasing the autoflow setting from the factory setting of 60% on the port side to say 70% or up to 100% does for the wave?

moombadaze
08-05-2015, 07:48 AM
I would start out with no ballast, surf speed and start messing with the auto flow controls to see how the deployment affects the wave, then start adding ballast and adjust the controls again to see how the wave is affected.

JesseC
08-05-2015, 04:55 PM
Can someone explain to me what increasing the autoflow setting from the factory setting of 60% on the port side to say 70% or up to 100% does for the wave?

I have been wondering this myself. I can not find any documentation or instructions on the auto flow. I will agree that it is nice to switch from side to side so quickly, but what are the setting for??? Someone had to do some design and testing.

Gettin' It
08-06-2015, 12:38 PM
For regular I run auto flow at 85%, 1100 lb port 100%, 1100 lb bow 80%, and starboard 60%. Half or none wake plate. At 10.5 mph. Regardless of number of people on the boat, we always have a great wave.

JesseC
08-06-2015, 01:47 PM
This is where I think the confusion sets in for me. It seems like you would set the starboard to affect the port side wave and port to affect the right side goofy Wave. I wish someone from the factory would weigh in on this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

callynoah
08-06-2015, 02:27 PM
yes all I am trying to figure out is what does adjusting the autoflow do to the surf wave. the factory has it set at 50%/60% for my mondo but others have increased it to 70, 85,100% what are these adjustments doing?

Jon
08-06-2015, 02:57 PM
Feel free to direct any specific Auto Flow questions my way. jallen@skierschoice.com

Jon Allen
Midwest Sales Manager
Skier's Choice

goose
08-06-2015, 04:09 PM
To answer the original question, the settings are a % of how far down the plates go. When changing the port settings, the stbd plate is actually moving and vice versa for stbd settings. 100% would be all the way down. 0% would be all the way up. There is no magical setting number that works for every model or boat. Typically most people are running settings between 50 and 100. It is best to set up the settings based on how much ballast you are running, where you are running the ballast, and how you like the wake shape. Typically, the further down the % setting, the longer the wave. Typically the further up the % setting, the taller the wave will be and it will have more push. Several people have responded with how they run the ballast and settings in their boat, but I recommend experimenting with the settings to see what works best for you. As always, the ballast displacement typically makes a bigger change in wave shape and size than the plate settings so make sure you experiment with ballast positioning also. The front to back % of weight makes a huge difference in how much push you have or how long the wave is. Good luck and hope that helps.

Jason05216
08-06-2015, 04:19 PM
Can the autoflow be added to a 2015 LSV. I currently have the manual flow.

goose
08-07-2015, 01:56 PM
Theoretically yes. I say that because we didn't actually test the AutoFlow 2.0 plates on the LSV since we are not making the LSV for 2016. But we do offer the AutoFlow plates on the LSV and theoretically, you could change from AutoFlow to AutoFlow 2.0 plates by changing the plates and using the new larger upper mounts that are used on the 2.0 system. Removing and patching the holes from the manual flow system will be the hardest part. That might be a little difficult, but it is doable.

BrettLee3232
08-10-2015, 02:36 AM
Theoretically yes. I say that because we didn't actually test the AutoFlow 2.0 plates on the LSV since we are not making the LSV for 2016. But we do offer the AutoFlow plates on the LSV and theoretically, you could change from AutoFlow to AutoFlow 2.0 plates by changing the plates and using the new larger upper mounts that are used on the 2.0 system. Removing and patching the holes from the manual flow system will be the hardest part. That might be a little difficult, but it is doable.

How much is it to upgrade from auto flow to the new auto flow 2.0 plates? Is it an easy swap out?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

cpropes2005
08-10-2015, 12:15 PM
I was wondering the same thing. It looked like just the plates where different which should be an easy swap but according to those comments it sounds like teh top mount may also be a little different. I am wondering what would happen if you just went with the new style plates and left the mounting arm the same?

goose
08-10-2015, 01:18 PM
You will have to contact your local dealer about upgrading. We don't sell parts like that directly from the factory. With the AutoFlow 2.0 plates, if you don't change the upper arm, you can bend the smaller AutoFlow 1 upper arm. We did quite a bit of testing and that is why we went with the larger upper mount on the 2.0 system.

Jwredmon101
08-10-2015, 01:45 PM
Matt, just for clarification ... If I surf port and I need more push ... I should run the plate closer to 50% and if I want more length I should run closer to 100% on the starboard tab?

goose
08-10-2015, 04:08 PM
Thats correct Josh. In the other thread I think Jon did a great job of explaining how it all works. Hopefully he has got you pointed in the right direction. Jon and I work together and we both have quite a bit of time in the new Craz, and I think once you get it all dialed in, you are going to love the Craz and the AutoFlow 2.0 system. One thing Jon and I continue to stress is that to understand the AutoFlow system, you have to understand how all the variables work together. As with any surf system, one variable alone can not overcome having the other variables incorrect. Specifically, I am sure you have heard this, but there is no replacement for displacement. The ballast system and passengers in the boat make the largest impact in surfing. The wave is nothing more than the water that is displaced by the running surface and the weight of the boat and ballast system. The AutoFlow plates do NOT add weight and hence do very little to add to displacement. Think of the plates as more of a tool that helps displace water in a direction in order to better shape the wave. However, if you don't have ballast, or don't have it in the correct location, then the plate really can't do it's job properly. I say that because your comment is about adding push. Moving the plates will help, but size and push first come with ballast, then finetuned with plate. Hope that makes sense. Again, I think Jon's comments in the other thread are perfect. If you follow that direction, it should get you where you want to be.

cpropes2005
08-11-2015, 08:50 AM
You will have to contact your local dealer about upgrading. We don't sell parts like that directly from the factory. With the AutoFlow 2.0 plates, if you don't change the upper arm, you can bend the smaller AutoFlow 1 upper arm. We did quite a bit of testing and that is why we went with the larger upper mount on the 2.0 system.

So is the mounting pattern for the new upper arm the same? Just curious if it would require repairing fiberglass and drilling new holes or if it would just be as simple as getting the new upper arms and plates and bolting it all on.

jstenger
08-11-2015, 08:59 AM
You will have to contact your local dealer about upgrading. We don't sell parts like that directly from the factory. With the AutoFlow 2.0 plates, if you don't change the upper arm, you can bend the smaller AutoFlow 1 upper arm. We did quite a bit of testing and that is why we went with the larger upper mount on the 2.0 system.
I have a 2014 LSV. Can you provide the part numbers for the AutoFlow 2.o parts or kit? I like going to the dealer with part numbers instead of waiting for them to search. Other than adding the switch to the dash, can the dash computers in the 14's be flashed to match the 15's and 16's? Thanks.

goose
08-11-2015, 02:01 PM
On the upper arms, it does use the same hole pattern. The arm itself is just bigger. On the 2014 LSV, unfortunately that kit number doesn't exist. The LSV has it's own hinge assembly that is unique to the other boats. We do have a kit for AutoFlow on 2014 and 2015 LSV. However, like I said, we didn't do the LSV for 2016 so there is no AutoFlow 2 kit for the LSV. Again, it is theoretically possible, but it will require parts from an AutoFlow kit and an AutoFlow 2.0 kit. The dash can be reprogrammed, but obviously getting the parts you need without the parts you don't need might be quite difficult and could be costly. Again, you will just have to contact your local dealer and work through that one. They might be able to get ahold of our vendor that is doing that for us and work out something, but I can't promise you anything. We do our absolute best to try and make sure things are as retrofittable as they can be, but obviously there is always a limit because we have to put the majority of our efforts on our current production needs. I am sure you can understand. Good luck on your project.

jstenger
08-11-2015, 03:21 PM
On the upper arms, it does use the same hole pattern. The arm itself is just bigger. On the 2014 LSV, unfortunately that kit number doesn't exist. The LSV has it's own hinge assembly that is unique to the other boats. We do have a kit for AutoFlow on 2014 and 2015 LSV. However, like I said, we didn't do the LSV for 2016 so there is no AutoFlow 2 kit for the LSV. Again, it is theoretically possible, but it will require parts from an AutoFlow kit and an AutoFlow 2.0 kit. The dash can be reprogrammed, but obviously getting the parts you need without the parts you don't need might be quite difficult and could be costly. Again, you will just have to contact your local dealer and work through that one. They might be able to get ahold of our vendor that is doing that for us and work out something, but I can't promise you anything. We do our absolute best to try and make sure things are as retrofittable as they can be, but obviously there is always a limit because we have to put the majority of our efforts on our current production needs. I am sure you can understand. Good luck on your project.
Sent you a PM.

lsupcar
11-01-2015, 10:48 PM
Anyone upgraded to from outflow 1 to 2.0 yet? Or received a price quote?
I asked my dealer Friday to get me a quote for upgrading the autoflow tabs only.
I also want to add a FAE, and I think it would work better with the smaller current wake plate instead of upgrading to the larger 2.0 wake plate.
I'm hoping the smaller wake plate will work well with the outflow 2 tabs.
Anyone with additional info?
Thanks.Bill Z with a 2015 Mojo

jstenger
11-02-2015, 08:04 AM
Anyone upgraded to from outflow 1 to 2.0 yet? Or received a price quote?
I asked my dealer Friday to get me a quote for upgrading the autoflow tabs only.
I also want to add a FAE, and I think it would work better with the smaller current wake plate instead of upgrading to the larger 2.0 wake plate.
I'm hoping the smaller wake plate will work well with the outflow 2 tabs.
Anyone with additional info?
Thanks.Bill Z with a 2015 Mojo
You will need the larger upper arms also.

lsupcar
11-02-2015, 09:48 PM
You will need the larger upper arms also.

Thanks.
Yes, installing the larger upper arms is part of the plan.
Just wondering if anyone else is pursuing this?

jmvotto
11-03-2015, 09:58 AM
I am patiently waiting for the retro fit for the xlv for the auto flow 2.0

jstenger
11-03-2015, 10:00 AM
I am patiently waiting for the retro fit for the xlv for the auto flow 2.0
Myself also for the LSV.

lsupcar
11-03-2015, 11:09 PM
Myself also for the LSV.

Do you both have price quotes and time frames for delivery?
Bill Z

jstenger
11-08-2015, 08:24 PM
Do you both have price quotes and time frames for delivery?
Bill Z
No, it isn't out yet.

jmvotto
11-08-2015, 11:29 PM
I heard 3500 to 4000 installed , spring , summer 16, but it is not out yet as Joe stated above

BrettLee3232
11-09-2015, 04:53 PM
You will need the larger upper arms also.

Larger upper arms for AutFlow 2.0 or for FAE?

I just order the 2.0 tabs for my Mondo and he said a direct replacement...easy swap out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jstenger
11-09-2015, 04:57 PM
Larger upper arms for AutFlow 2.0 or for FAE?

I just order the 2.0 tabs for my Mondo and he said a direct replacement...easy swap out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You need the larger upper arms for Autoflow 2.0 since the larger tabs generate more force. Luckily they use the same hole pattern.

BrettLee3232
11-09-2015, 05:00 PM
You need the larger upper arms for Autoflow 2.0 since the larger tabs generate more force. Luckily they use the same hole pattern.

Hmmmm, odd they didn't mention that to me. I guess we will see when they arrive lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BrettLee3232
11-09-2015, 05:54 PM
You need the larger upper arms for Autoflow 2.0 since the larger tabs generate more force. Luckily they use the same hole pattern.

Just spoke with the manufacturer and he said....


We did enlarge them a little due to worst case senecio on testing but unless you are trying to power turn with plate deployed or use the blades as a step you should be fine.

They use the same mounting holes. The only thing that would be some extra work on your end would be cut the actuator leads so you could remove current arm mounts. Then having to wire/solder them back and use water tight heat shrink tubing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

nitrodude24
11-09-2015, 08:14 PM
Brett Lee what will the retro cost you for the parts

BrettLee3232
11-10-2015, 12:38 AM
Brett Lee what will the retro cost you for the parts

PM sent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk