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View Full Version : 2008 Outback DD transmission leak?



Fastest1
05-30-2015, 08:22 PM
I just bought an 08. The only history is that it was run in salt water.

The boat seems in pretty decent shape after a bath. I do get a CEL for no obvious reason. No overheating, oil pressure is fine.

I have been going thru it, cleaning up what I didnt like, personalizing it and just becoming familiar with the boat and its nuances. I have not taken it off of the trailer.

I did install a flush fitting to run it on a hose. I see a small amount of transmission fluid in the bilge after shutting the motor off. I have run it numerous times and see no dripping or fluid in the bilge til after I kill the engine. The transmission lines seem fine though they swivel easier than what I would have imagined but they dont leak there.

This will be my first experience with a WB/WS boat. Just trying to keep the family together.

Rakkasan
05-30-2015, 08:38 PM
Check the fluid level for your wake plate. Mine has a leak but it's so hard the get too that I just keep adding fluid. It uses basic ATF

Fastest1
05-30-2015, 10:16 PM
No wakeplate.

Thanks for the reply though.

Fastest1
06-15-2015, 08:52 PM
Oh does this story take an unexpected twist!
So I take it to a dealer to remove the 2 codes.

1 was a misfire on cylinder 1 (caused by a broken distributor cap, noticed during the initial attempt to start)

The other was a low battery condition. Again just from sitting unmaintained for 6 or more months.

Dealer said the motor showed 232.4 hours (hour meter doesn't work for some reason). He told me to go drive it, run some fresh gas thru it and bring it back if another code pops up. He didn't charge me to read or erase the code.

I had been aware that a small amount of trans fluid was leaking into the bilge. It only showed up after shutting the motor down.

When driving the boat it ran very well but I noticed more trans fluid in the bilge. I noticed there was oil too. I stuck my iPhone on video beneath the motor while it was running. No oil from drain fitting or line.

My suspicion was and is the rear main seal on the motor and most likely the front seal on the transmission.

So I slide the prop shaft back, remove all of the bell housing bolts, electrical panel and starter (though I don't think that was necessary).
Then I try to pull the trans out. No go. It doesn't budge. Remember this is a boat that has been run in salt/brackish water.
I put wedge in 3 points around the bell housing and could create a gap of 3/8" or more (past the dowels) and the trans will not come off. I have read a few instances of this. There doesn't appear to be a trick. There is no way to get a torch in there to heat the input shaft.

As a joke I could pull the oil pan, crank bearing and connecting rod journals and lift the crank out with the tranny attached (still not able to remove the flex plate most likely) I have thought about using a hole saw to create a port thru the bell housing to possibly unbolt the damper plate or heat the input shaft. I know that sounds crazy but it is starting the look like the cheapest way out with the least damage. I could reweld the bell housing or buy a new one for that matter.
How is that for a challenge?

I picked the boat up for 9500.00. I am still ahead ;-) I think.

viking
06-15-2015, 09:04 PM
wow what a soap opera. Hope you remedy it soon and cheap. Good Luck!

Fastest1
06-15-2015, 09:06 PM
To expound a little more. I did pull the motor and transmission out of the boat after they wouldn't separate. I did spray liberal amounts of rust penetrant a onto the input shaft (I can slip the straw of the spray can around the flex plate and spray the general area though I can't see it)
I also left the wedges mentioned above forcing it apart overnight with no change.
The hole and or crankshaft ideas are last resort hopefully.

Fastest1
06-15-2015, 09:08 PM
Viking, it has tested my patience to such an extent I think Murphy is my friend and I laugh at him and his attempts to discourage me ;-)

Fastest1
06-16-2015, 12:30 PM
Today I spoke with Indmar to verify the location of the damper bolts. I was informed they were just inboard of the ring gear. There are 6 of them.
I decided to cut a hole to access them. 22242
There might a light at the end of the tunnel after all!

Fastest1
06-16-2015, 01:03 PM
They are apart! Now the repairs can begin.

viking
06-16-2015, 01:14 PM
man that's alot more work than I would have signed up for. Good for you! I hope it is an easier ride from here on out?

Fastest1
06-16-2015, 08:11 PM
It has to be. There aren't many more fasteners in the boat! They will all be new, threads chased, never seize on everything. New damper plate and most likely motor and transmission mounts. I hate rust.