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Rakkasan
05-11-2015, 11:38 AM
Ok, so I've been having problems with my Depth Gauge since last year having to replace the fluid. Went out yesterday and it was acting up again. Most of the times just giving the 3.0 as depth even in the main channel. So I figured it was low on fluid again.

I refilled it, went to twist the transducer back in its housing, and the housing came up off the hull. All the epoxy is still in place just not connected to the transducer housing anymore.

Question. Do I have to grind all the old epoxy off and try to glue the housing back down. Or can I try and reattach the transducer housing with somemore epoxy over the existing. And if so what kind of epoxy work best.

Thanks

trayson
05-11-2015, 12:31 PM
Ok, so I've been having problems with my Depth Gauge since last year having to replace the fluid. Went out yesterday and it was acting up again. Most of the times just giving the 3.0 as depth even in the main channel. So I figured it was low on fluid again.

I refilled it, went to twist the transducer back in its housing, and the housing came up off the hull. All the epoxy is still in place just not connected to the transducer housing anymore.

Question. Do I have to grind all the old epoxy off and try to glue the housing back down. Or can I try and reattach the transducer housing with somemore epoxy over the existing. And if so what kind of epoxy work best.

Thanks

What kind of fluid are you using?


Also, I had some experience on my last boat with trying to secure the transducer housing. I started with some kind of silicone adhesive. That didn't work well at all. Then I tried JB weld. that only worked moderately well, but since I didn't remove the old stuff I got leaks. Ultimately I took off the JB weld and silicone and tried 3m 5200. I had to be deliberate about removing any trace of the mineral oil I was using as my "fluid" because that would keep things from sticking. It seemed to work the best of the things I tried, but I'm certainly not an expert.

Rakkasan
05-11-2015, 02:24 PM
I was using RV Antifreeze. That's what Airmar recommended on their website.

It's like the housing just let go of the epoxy. There's a perfect impression of where the housing ring was attached. Which led me to believe I could just glue it back down over the old epoxy. Is 3M 5200 something easy to find and do you think it would stick to the old epoxy.

trayson
05-11-2015, 02:40 PM
I was using RV Antifreeze. That's what Airmar recommended on their website.

It's like the housing just let go of the epoxy. There's a perfect impression of where the housing ring was attached. Which led me to believe I could just glue it back down over the old epoxy. Is 3M 5200 something easy to find and do you think it would stick to the old epoxy.

3m 5200 is pretty much what everyone uses to seal when they make holes in their hull for ballast thru-hulls or transom lights.

It's available at EVERY marine store, but I've found the best price on it is actually at Home Depot. I use the fast cure.
I have no idea if it's the best product to use, but I figure if it can seal a hole in my hull, it might do okay attaching the transducer.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41-E1etlXNL._SY300_.jpg

I used mineral oil in mine (also recommended by airmar). It's thicker so maybe that would help with not getting erratic readings? The best source of mineral oil I found was in Walmart in the section that had laxatives! It was like a dollar for around a quart. And yes, the fact that it's a "lubricant/laxative" is good for some LOL's! The mineral oil has the consistency of syrup or vegetable oil, so maybe that helps with it being thicker?

https://df86e1f1124ca74e8a31-9462e40b2390ee19fc5d9d822c269b91.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.c om/ProductImages/large/167927.jpg


Again, I've found that the adhesives DON'T like the mineral oil when it's setting or trying to adhere, so if anything, I'd make sure to CLEAN the surface first (maybe with brake clean or something) then put the adhesive down with the transducer housing, and WAIT until it totally cured before filling the housing and clipping in the transducer.

spyder
05-11-2015, 02:41 PM
i never knew the transducer was serviceable... time to try to fix mine! time to buy some lubricant for the boat...

Rakkasan
05-11-2015, 02:51 PM
Guess I'll try the 5200 but will probably stick with the Antifreeze after reading this from Airmar.

"The P79 base may installed with silicone sealant, fiberglass resin, 3M's 5200, or Marine-tex epoxy putty.
NOTE: Do NOT use mineral oil to fill a tank that is secured with 3M's 5200. Mineral oil may weaken the bond. Only use non-toxic propylene glycol (RV anti-freeze) when using this adhesive."

trayson
05-11-2015, 02:58 PM
i never knew the transducer was serviceable... time to try to fix mine! time to buy some lubricant for the boat...

Some are, some aren't. I'm pretty sure the one that Rakkasan is talking about is the one that has a base that mounts to the hull and the transducer that snaps into it with the base (cylinder) filled with fluid (antifreeze or mineral oil).
Like this:
http://www.prestoimages.net/store30/rd7742/7742_pd1844666_1.jpg

However, I have an Inhull transducer on my XLV that came factory and it's a solid puck that's epoxied to my hull.
In my XLV:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3TKsPUAhBu4/VOVctbRIuGI/AAAAAAAAYBE/MDIbjVhFfj0/s800/20150218_194151.jpg

spyder
05-11-2015, 03:02 PM
Some are, some aren't.
However, I have an Inhull transducer on my XLV that came factory and it's a solid puck that's epoxied to my hull.
In my XLV:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3TKsPUAhBu4/VOVctbRIuGI/AAAAAAAAYBE/MDIbjVhFfj0/s800/20150218_194151.jpg
mine definitely looks like yours

trayson
05-11-2015, 03:04 PM
Guess I'll try the 5200 but will probably stick with the Antifreeze after reading this from Airmar.

"The P79 base may installed with silicone sealant, fiberglass resin, 3M's 5200, or Marine-tex epoxy putty.
NOTE: Do NOT use mineral oil to fill a tank that is secured with 3M's 5200. Mineral oil may weaken the bond. Only use non-toxic propylene glycol (RV anti-freeze) when using this adhesive."

Well, there you go.

I still think that the fact the mineral oil is less viscous might aid in less erratic readings, but I guess the 5200/mineral oil combo isn't optimal as they explicitly warn about it.

That said, I wish I had a transducer that was built into the paddle wheel like they're doing on the newest boats. a thru-hull construction that gets speed, depth and temp all in one would be the way to go. But I'm not about to retrofit mine. Thankfully my depth gauge works. I actually upgraded my basic gauge to a Faria that gets me air temp and water temp and I was able to tap into the existing transducer and it works great! I'll get the water temp from my paddlewheel and tap into that where perfect pass grabs that info, and I ran an external air temp sensor that came with the kit.

The transducer that came with the Faria was LAME as it actually wanted you to mount it on the OUTSIDE of your hull at the back of the transom. Um, No.

trayson
05-11-2015, 03:08 PM
mine definitely looks like yours

I guess you don't need to buy any lube after all!

I did a little transducer research, and you can replace yours with another one as long as it's the right frequency (235kHz)

Read this thread for more info:
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?25682-Brand-(FREQUENCY)-of-transducer-and-depth-gauge-used-in-my-2008-XLV&highlight=transducer+frequency

spyder
05-11-2015, 03:21 PM
I guess you don't need to buy any lube after all!

I did a little transducer research, and you can replace yours with another one as long as it's the right frequency (235kHz)

Read this thread for more info:
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?25682-Brand-(FREQUENCY)-of-transducer-and-depth-gauge-used-in-my-2008-XLV&highlight=transducer+frequency

do you just pop the old one off the hull?

trayson
05-11-2015, 03:25 PM
do you just pop the old one off the hull?

Well, my transducer is actually working. But if I remember right, if you wanted to replace the transducer, you'd have to either:


Remove old transducer, cut the wires at the gauge, then cut the wires on the bad transducer to try to fish the new transducer wires, but then realize that the wires are all zip tied under the floor and have to remove the floor to route the wires for the new transducer.
Or, cut the wires for the old transducer and attempt to splice it to the new transducer wires.
or if you didn't want to remove the floor, it would be easy enough to route the wires down the starboard side and ultimately route them into the bilge by the vdrive...


Bottom line is that replacing a transducer wouldn't be 'hard' but could end up a PITA and time consuming.

Mine's still working so I'm leaving it alone.

Rakkasan
05-11-2015, 03:51 PM
Some are, some aren't. I'm pretty sure the one that Rakkasan is talking about is the one that has a base that mounts to the hull and the transducer that snaps into it with the base (cylinder) filled with fluid (antifreeze or mineral oil).
Like this:
http://www.prestoimages.net/store30/rd7742/7742_pd1844666_1.jpg



Yep that's it. Now I just hope I can remember the angle that the base was. Went the two stores looking for the 5200 struck out twice. Hope I don't have the Amazon it or will be without a depth finder this weekend. Luckily we know our spot on the lake pretty well but it's good insurance when working.

sivs1
05-11-2015, 04:05 PM
Went the two stores looking for the 5200 struck out twice. Hope I don't have the Amazon it .

Home Depot sells it.

Rakkasan
05-11-2015, 04:09 PM
Ok I'll try there. Just went to Auto Parts stores today as they were on my way.

trayson
05-11-2015, 05:26 PM
Home Depot sells it.


It's available at EVERY marine store, but I've found the best price on it is actually at Home Depot.

Yep, Home Depot has it for WAY less than the Marine Stores. Made me happy.