Detailing cost

[Blueliner]

I am looking at removing the cheesy scratched up decals on the sides of the hull, then getting a buffing and wax job. There is very little if any oxidation (always has been stored out of the water mostly indoors), the detailer is very confident that the he can eliminate any shadow evidence from the big decal and the XLV decal, the hull will look new. My hull is black on the bottom, then blue below the rub rail, white above it. Does $300 sound fair for this service? I do not have a buffer, and I do not have a lot of time at the moment to take care of this myself.

There will still be some minor scratches on the black that show as white, which is though the gel-coat? I think what should I do about those?

Blueliner.

[brain_rinse]

$300 sounds like a good deal for that work. If the scratches are through the black gel you will want to have them filled, wet sanded then polished.

[Blueliner]

I should probably remove the decals first, then fix any noticeable scratches finish up with the detailing / waxing.

[mmandley]

That's a great deal man.

I asked to get mine buffed last year and it was $450.

It cost me a hundo to get just the top deck buffed due to water spots.

[kaneboats]

You are getting a steal. Go for it. Post some before and after pics.

[mnpracing]

It cost me a hundo to get just the top deck buffed due to water spots.

That would be a great business to be in. Use 50/50 vinegar and water, costs about a nickel to do the whole boat. You can wipe with just the weight of the cloth and it comes right off. If you've waited until the pollution in the evaporated water etches the gelcoat, then you would have to use polish.

[mmandley]

Tried it, also tried every Babes, and other product out there.

I am a big fan of the 50/50 mix, I use it alot and it works but still doesn't remove everything. I also like to use it to spray in the carpet down at the end of the season, keeps the spiders out.

When you look at the boat, feel it its brand new looking from a couple feet away. The issue I have is when I stand right up on it I can see little spots.

The other issue is when we went to Powell it was in the water for 4 days and got covered in hard spots, I used a lot of things on it and got most of them spots off. Some spots still remain.

We wipe it down after ever day of use and for the most part it stays clean but I am so anal about spots LOL.

Even on my truck I actually use water spot remover on them after every couple washes.

[kaneboats]

I'd be surprised if there was not a lot more metal/stone/granite/sediment/whatever in the tiny water spots when you went to Powell. I notice a difference from our river to Lake Martin 4 hrs. north in Alabama. Of course the boat is in the water all week up there and had to undergo the deep clean when it gets back.

[mmandley]

I'd be surprised if there was not a lot more metal/stone/granite/sediment/whatever in the tiny water spots when you went to Powell. I notice a difference from our river to Lake Martin 4 hrs. north in Alabama. Of course the boat is in the water all week up there and had to undergo the deep clean when it gets back.

Yea I am sure your correct, with the rock face canyon that Powell is developed from I am sure there is a lot of minerals in it. This is the same issue with LBC.

When we got back from Powell I had to dome serious cleaning. Didn't help the boat was less then a year old and it no longer looked new after that road trip LOL.

So safe I have only did more of a buff and polish, no cutting compounds so the water spots do come off. I just hate to buff anything, I am only good at buffing one thing...

[cornrickey]

I wouldn't do it for 300. I also would recommend leaving any scratches for the detailer to fix. You may end up causing more work for him than saving. When I had a concrete pad poured I asked if I could get a discount for helping as a labor. He told me the only think I can do is siton the curb and watch. Understand?

[kaneboats]

I am only good at buffing one thing...

I really really really hope you are talking about the Corvette.

[CookieMonster]

I got quoted at a specialty marine shop for wax/ buff $25 per foot, so $500 just for the outside of the boat (insane) and $200 for the inside. I went to a local guy around my house who does vehicle detailing. He said he could do the whole boat for $450. Including shampoo carpets, remove stains from vinyl, remove oxidation from windshield AND the outside of the boat. Plus wax and buff. I'm thinking its a good deal, what do you guys think??

also, he detailed a truck for me a while back and did an amazing job.

[mmandley]

I got quoted at a specialty marine shop for wax/ buff $25 per foot, so $500 just for the outside of the boat (insane) and $200 for the inside. I went to a local guy around my house who does vehicle detailing. He said he could do the whole boat for $450. Including shampoo carpets, remove stains from vinyl, remove oxidation from windshield AND the outside of the boat. Plus wax and buff. I'm thinking its a good deal, what do you guys think??

also, he detailed a truck for me a while back and did an amazing job.

As long as he knows what chemicals you can't use on vinyl interiors, and he knows how to buff Fiberglass shouldn't be an issue. 450 for an entire detail is a steel in my part of the country.

[CookieMonster]

Ok. What type of chemicals do i need to make sure he doesn't use?

[mmandley]

Anything with mineral spirits, no rubber erasers.

Basically just uses the same types of cleaning things you would use on fine leather interior. These will have oils to condition the fabric.

Also you will want to wipe the interior down once a month in the summer with a UV protectant for interiors such as 303.

http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-AQ303AP-Protectant-oz/dp/B004MAOEKG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1431575877&sr=8-7&keywords=303+protectant

[cornrickey]

I just spent over 100 today on detailing supplies alone. Spent 4 hours on mechanically rubbing out last year's wear and tear and still have about 6 more to go with Polish, Glaze and wax. Then it's onto the inside. All be it any scratch felt by a finger nail is getting wet sanded and I'm sure any 400 dollar detailer doesn't get so detailed (see what I did there?). I once detailed a old Cessna for $300 back in college, not a smart business decision on my part.

[Blueliner]

So far I have removed the XLV and Mobius decals from both sides with the hair dryer method. I found that if you get too aggressive the heat and peeling action it will cause the top of the decal (vinyl?) to separate from whatever the sticky part is. The stick part will stay attached to the hull. The first side we were very slow and steady and have a little of that, the other side we have a lot of the silvery crap still stuck to the hull. I spent about an hour last night the first side spaying goo gone, rubbing with a microfiber cloth, and using the hair dryer with rubbing action from my figures (which are sore today!) It still leaves an outline of the decal in some spots. Should I get more aggressive with the goo gone/cloth, or leave this for the buffer to remove. I have a attached a picture. 22045

[mmandley]

So far I have removed the XLV and Mobius decals from both sides with the hair dryer method. I found that if you get too aggressive the heat and peeling action it will cause the top of the decal (vinyl?) to separate from whatever the sticky part is. The stick part will stay attached to the hull. The first side we were very slow and steady and have a little of that, the other side we have a lot of the silvery crap still stuck to the hull. I spent about an hour last night the first side spaying goo gone, rubbing with a microfiber cloth, and using the hair dryer with rubbing action from my figures (which are sore today!) It still leaves an outline of the decal in some spots. Should I get more aggressive with the goo gone/cloth, or leave this for the buffer to remove. I have a attached a picture. 22045

You can try rubbing alcohol. Odly enough I have found just waxing it by hand with a cream based wax will dry the glue and remove it.

Also you will need to buff it to get the discoloration off.

[CookieMonster]

I just spent over 100 today on detailing supplies alone. Spent 4 hours on mechanically rubbing out last year's wear and tear and still have about 6 more to go with Polish, Glaze and wax. Then it's onto the inside. All be it any scratch felt by a finger nail is getting wet sanded and I'm sure any 400 dollar detailer doesn't get so detailed (see what I did there?). I once detailed a old Cessna for $300 back in college, not a smart business decision on my part.
I used to detail for a used dealership in college and I know hot meticulous it is. Like i said, this guy is great at what he does.