PDA

View Full Version : New to me 2003 Mobius GG - Need Some Questions Answered!



mjr119
05-07-2015, 11:07 PM
Hello all, just picked up a 2003 Moomba Mobius LSV Gravity Games edition. The black gel coat is heavily oxidized. I am looking in to either wrapping it in solid black or getting it wet sanded and polished/waxed. The dash has some sun damage or general weather damage, it has darker spots all over it, would anything help this? Maybe a magic eraser?

I am looking to purchase some knobs for the tower bolts to make folding it down easier. Can someone link me to the correct size, please?

The previous owner said there is an issue with the center ballast, I have yet to look into it. I may have to replace a pump. No big deal.

The PO has the perfect pass unplugged behind the dash, how much would it be to upgrade to star gazer? I dont think they make the old style perfect ppass anymore so I would have to upgrade to fix it, correct?

In the engine compartment, facing the rear of the engine, what is the clear, plastic box to the right? Looks like electronics inside.

One thing I am interested in is raising the bimini up as much as I can, has anyone else done this? If so links?

Thanks in advance for any advice. I look forward to getting this boat back in shape for the summer.

mmandley
05-07-2015, 11:58 PM
Hello all, just picked up a 2003 Moomba Mobius LSV Gravity Games edition. The black gel coat is heavily oxidized. I am looking in to either wrapping it in solid black or getting it wet sanded and polished/waxed. The dash has some sun damage or general weather damage, it has darker spots all over it, would anything help this? Maybe a magic eraser?

I am looking to purchase some knobs for the tower bolts to make folding it down easier. Can someone link me to the correct size, please?

The previous owner said there is an issue with the center ballast, I have yet to look into it. I may have to replace a pump. No big deal.

The PO has the perfect pass unplugged behind the dash, how much would it be to upgrade to star gazer? I dont think they make the old style perfect ppass anymore so I would have to upgrade to fix it, correct?

In the engine compartment, facing the rear of the engine, what is the clear, plastic box to the right? Looks like electronics inside.

One thing I am interested in is raising the bimini up as much as I can, has anyone else done this? If so links?

Thanks in advance for any advice. I look forward to getting this boat back in shape for the summer.

First Welcome to the forum.

I would pay to wetsand, buff before a wrap. Wraps are 2-5K most of the time and wet sanding buffing is a lot cheaper in most cases. Also if you bump a dock you might damage the wrap where the gell is buff-able to remove scratches.

For the knobs pictures of that your trying to change might help, but first you remove them and size them as in 3/8th but there is a couple sites that sell the style with the larger hand turn knobs.

Center ballast could be a few things, might be the pump, hoses, fuse to the pump, really have to test it to see what its doing or not doing to help.

Engine compartment, the clear box with electronics is most likely your wake plate system. Electric control with hydraulic actuator.

You might just try plugging the PP back in, but on the back of the controller is a SS# or a Model # and you can search Ebay for them and or call PP who makes them for assistance.

Post up pics of the boat, also when looking for something its sometimes easier to post a picture as well.

mjr119
05-08-2015, 10:00 AM
Thank you!

I plan to attempt the wet sanding asap. I just need to remove the decals first. Has anyone on here wet sanded a black boat before? If so, what is the best/easiest process? I have done a lot of research on it and people have plenty of different methods, but Im interested in a straight forward method that requires the fewest number of different supplies. I know it's a ton of work but I am willing to do it! I am not concerned with getting the gel coat back to perfect, I just want to make it look good for a 13 year old boat!

Has anyone used this? Should I try a rubbing compund before wet sanding? What would you use to apply this?
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--ultracut-rubbing-compound--P015941362

Has anyone used this to repair small chips or scratches? I thought about trying this before I do the wet sanding if I have to.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--gelcoat-repair-kit--14153282


The knobs: which one should I get? The internal or external thread? Is this the correct size?

http://www.grainger.com/product/KIPP-3-8-16-Thread-Size-Star-Grip-WP57488/_/N-9n1Z1z0o3ziZ1z0clevZ1z0o3p9?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/3DFR6_AS01?$smthumb$

I plan to test the ballast this weekend so I will report back with my findings.
Im not too concerned with not having perfect pass, but I would like for it to work since it’s there. Can I perform the servo test on this model without the display plugged in? If the servo checks out to be okay I may just buy a star gazer module and display. How much would it be to upgrade? I know the display is about 250 and the module is 500 or so, does this include the gps receiver?
I’ll post pics once I give her a good cleaning. Thanks for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it!

wolfeman131
05-08-2015, 12:16 PM
try using the search function on the forum as quite a few have done wetsanded and provided extensive info on what they did and what they used. There may be more than 1 specific to a black boat.

kaneboats
05-08-2015, 01:46 PM
Doesn't matter what color it is. You have to be careful. Start with maybe 1200 paper and take it down. Follow with rubbing compound, then polishing compound till it's shiny. If you don't have a buffer, time to buy one. Go to a paint store and buy a super nice pad for your buffer. Will be money well spent.

mjr119
05-08-2015, 09:02 PM
Took it out for about an hour this evening. It ran really smooth. Rear bags are filling and emptying as they should. The center bag did not seem to fill, although I did see some water in the ski locker. Does the locker have a drain plug? Does the center bag empty on the port or starboard side?

I haven't tested the perfect pass. It is still unplugged under the dash. All other gauges are working.

I have a weird speaker problem that I don't know how to explain. Dome speakers work when the setting is turned left and the other speakers work when you turn it on right. In the center, which should output to all speakers evenly, still only half of the speakers work.

My trim tab is working. It goes up but only half way down, what could be the problem ?

mjr119
05-08-2015, 09:07 PM
Also, I found out that the tower bolts are seized in the tower. Really rusty bolts. They aren't even bolts, I think they were hand knobs that broke off and left the stud behind barely sticking out. I tried to turn them with a pair of locking pliers but I didn't have any luck. Any advice for that?

mjr119
05-08-2015, 10:13 PM
I just noticed that my instrument panel lights are staying on unless I unhook the battery... any ideas on what to check ?

jarodag99
05-09-2015, 07:29 AM
You'll love that boat once you get it cleaned up. I've had my '04 Supra SSV since new and it has run like a champ up until it sat idle for the last two years.
There isn't a drain plug for the ski locker but it does drain from the back of the locker, past the fuel tank and into the engine compartment (under the transmission) to the bilge. Just FYI push on the floor of the ski locker and see if it "sloshes" like there's water under it. Notorious on these boats. If so, you can cut an access panel in it to vacuum it out.
Tower bolts are originally hand knobs which I would recommend purchasing again from a dealer. Makes taking the tower down easy without any tools. Try PB Blaster on the bolts (spray from both sides and into the joint), repeat several times. Lowes or an auto parts store sells stuff to pull broken bolts/screws. Worst case scenario you'll have to drill them out. If you do, hopefully you don't screw up the threads but you likely will. A good tap&die set will fix that (cheap at Harbor Freight).
Instrument lights: should be running from under dash electric panel, to the switch, then to lights. Could be a bad switch. Pull the switch panel and swap the harness on to a switch you know works and see if you can turn lights off. If so, bad switch....eBay. If not, troubleshooting really begins.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk