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CookieMonster
04-27-2015, 08:53 AM
I did a search on the forum and saw a few things that sound similar to my problem. I noticed my bilge kicking on about every 30-45 min on the water, stays on for about 20-30 seconds. Started looking while the motor was running and in neutral; seems water is leaking from where the drive shaft exits the transmission. I should've taken a video while I had it on the water. Anyone have some useful advice? Boat description in signature.

mmandley
04-27-2015, 09:16 AM
Probably needs a new shaft seal. They can be installed yourself. Few good diy threads on this.

CookieMonster
04-27-2015, 09:24 AM
Probably needs a new shaft seal. They can be installed yourself. Few good diy threads on this.

Can you post a link of one with pics? I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I'd like to learn how to do things like this myself.

chadjitsu1
04-27-2015, 09:24 AM
CookieMonster, I had to replace mine as well. It was letting a lot of water into the boat. If you have the dripless type then I would get it changed out ASAP because when those start to leak they are shot and things usually escalate fast from the first time you notice an issue. If you have the older type with the rope packing, you might be able to just tighten the nut a little and stop / slow the water intrusion, the older ones are designed to leak a little for lubrication

CookieMonster
04-27-2015, 09:29 AM
CookieMonster, I had to replace mine as well. It was letting a lot of water into the boat. If you have the dripless type then I would get it changed out ASAP because when those start to leak they are shot and things usually escalate fast from the first time you notice an issue. If you have the older type with the rope packing, you might be able to just tighten the nut a little and stop / slow the water intrusion, the older ones are designed to leak a little for lubrication

That's what I gather from what I've read so far. How do I tell if it's the dripless or not? It's an '05 Mobius LSV

chadjitsu1
04-27-2015, 10:07 AM
The dripless shaft seals have a rubber hose or sleeve held on by a few hose clamps. There is no "big nut" on the dripless seal. The drip type has a big brass nut. Here are a few links.

Dripless - http://www.australismarineindustrial.com/kiwi-shaft-seal.php

Drip - http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f2/stuffing-box-or-re-stuffing-the-box-dripless-11834.html

mmandley
04-27-2015, 10:14 AM
Can you post a link of one with pics? I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I'd like to learn how to do things like this myself.

This is the best one I have seen by a fellow member.

His is a little newer but should be the same procedure.

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?10841-Shaft-Packing-Replacement-on-2006-LSV&highlight=shaft+seal+packing+replacement

CookieMonster
04-27-2015, 02:18 PM
CookieMonster, I had to replace mine as well. It was letting a lot of water into the boat. If you have the dripless type then I would get it changed out ASAP because when those start to leak they are shot and things usually escalate fast from the first time you notice an issue. If you have the older type with the rope packing, you might be able to just tighten the nut a little and stop / slow the water intrusion, the older ones are designed to leak a little for lubrication
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/27/e2fae4fcd72e0221411374d734ff13c2.jpg

This is what mine looks like. Is that dripless or drip? Am i going to have to remove the drive shaft?

garyholl
04-27-2015, 09:08 PM
Cookie, Chad - that was really good of y'all to go out and organize those thoughts for this thread. That's why I keep coming back to this forum and respect what I hear here.

rdlangston13
04-27-2015, 09:23 PM
That looks like the older drip style


Sent from my iPhone

parrothd
04-27-2015, 10:17 PM
Probably get by with loosening the jam nut and tightening the other down, you want it drip slowly.. You'll need some special wrenches to make it easier..

parrothd
04-27-2015, 10:34 PM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQSG0O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_IeVpvb14C56WS

lee
04-28-2015, 07:56 AM
Yours looks to be almost tightened up. You should just go ahead and replace the flax packing.

CookieMonster
04-28-2015, 10:24 AM
Ok, I will. Thanks for all the help guys

tgoody14
04-28-2015, 11:34 AM
That looks like the older drip style


Sent from my iPhone

I'm in the process of doing this same thing... Here's a snap shot of a video. As you can see it's a stream coming out of there... When I got home from the Texas Jam last year all 4 of my bolts had come undone and were laying in the hull. This is when I noticed the stream and realized then why my bilge was always kicking on...

Which seal is this?
21924

spyder
04-28-2015, 11:34 AM
you can do it yourself, and i would recommend that.. but remember you will hate doing it the entire time your doing it...

zabooda
04-28-2015, 01:40 PM
Stay away from the wax cord as it doesn't last as long as the other cords out on the market. Besides, you don't need to be concerned about the water drip. I installed graphite cord 13 years ago and tightened it once about six years ago.

CookieMonster
04-28-2015, 02:13 PM
Off subject, anyone have any idea of the model number for a fuel filter on an 05 mobius lsv?

spyder
04-28-2015, 02:25 PM
Off subject, anyone have any idea of the model number for a fuel filter on an 05 mobius lsv?

I believe an 06 uses the following going by an old email of mine.


Carquest #86299
Wix # 33299

Part Number: 33299
UPC Number: 765809332997
Principal Application: GMC Motorhomes V-8 454 Eng. (89-91)
All Applications
Style: Fuel (Complete In-Line) Filter
Service: Fuel
Height: 4.352
Outer Diameter Top: 1.729
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Max Flow Rate: 1-2 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 10

CookieMonster
04-28-2015, 05:08 PM
Thanks! Auto zone was no help on that one.

chadjitsu1
04-30-2015, 10:59 AM
I'm in the process of doing this same thing... Here's a snap shot of a video. As you can see it's a stream coming out of there... When I got home from the Texas Jam last year all 4 of my bolts had come undone and were laying in the hull. This is when I noticed the stream and realized then why my bilge was always kicking on...

Which seal is this?
21924

You sir have a dripless type. I would not take the boat out on the water with that one leaking at all. When the dripless ones start to go they go all at once. You can order one from skiers and do it your self or just have the dealer or mechanic do it. I pulled the V-Drive and ended up getting stuck because i couldn't get the flange off the shaft, other than that, its easy

tgoody14
04-30-2015, 02:44 PM
You sir have a dripless type. I would not take the boat out on the water with that one leaking at all. When the dripless ones start to go they go all at once. You can order one from skiers and do it your self or just have the dealer or mechanic do it. I pulled the V-Drive and ended up getting stuck because i couldn't get the flange off the shaft, other than that, its easy

Thanks!
I just called them and they gave me the part number and mentioned I should also get a cap ($32) to put over the threads to I don't damage the seal when I slide it back over the shaft...

Did you get this cap too or just wrap the threads with electrical tape?

kaneboats
04-30-2015, 03:19 PM
When I replaced my shaft I wrapped threads with electrical tape and greased a little to slide through the seal.

chadjitsu1
04-30-2015, 06:32 PM
Just wrap the threads, especially for 32 dollars. You can buy like 32 rolls of tape for that

CookieMonster
04-30-2015, 11:03 PM
Am I going to beed to remove anything to do it? I'm thinking at least one back locker panel and maybe one of the hoses going to the trans? Seems like it'll be hard to get to

CookieMonster
04-30-2015, 11:04 PM
And what size is the nut?

mmandley
04-30-2015, 11:20 PM
When I replaced my shaft I wrapped threads with electrical tape and greased a little to slide through the seal.

Never replaced my shaft, but I like to grease it and slide it though the seal once in a while.

Sorry Kane, couldn't resist.

kaneboats
05-01-2015, 09:43 AM
Yes, I know a shaft that long is very tempting for you.

chadjitsu1
05-04-2015, 09:36 AM
Am I going to beed to remove anything to do it? I'm thinking at least one back locker panel and maybe one of the hoses going to the trans? Seems like it'll be hard to get to

The back locker panels fold down flat to the floor, you shouldn't need to remove anything. I also dont know the size of the nut. You can look that up im sure they are all the same usually. you just need to take the nut loose and pull the old packing out and then buy the new packing and put the nut back on. You want to stagger the strands of packing like you would piston rings so the don't overlap and where the rope wraps around is stagger from one another. Kind of hard to explain without showing you. Just make sure the rope doesn't meet in the same spot for all 3 wraps. If you go on planetnautique.com there is someone that did a write up on this.

CookieMonster
05-04-2015, 11:25 AM
The back locker panels fold down flat to the floor, you shouldn't need to remove anything. I also dont know the size of the nut. You can look that up im sure they are all the same usually. you just need to take the nut loose and pull the old packing out and then buy the new packing and put the nut back on. You want to stagger the strands of packing like you would piston rings so the don't overlap and where the rope wraps around is stagger from one another. Kind of hard to explain without showing you. Just make sure the rope doesn't meet in the same spot for all 3 wraps. If you go on planetnautique.com there is someone that did a write up on this.

I took down the locker panels over the weekend. I still couldn't access the nut. All I had was a big pipe wrench. I ordered one of those crescent wrenches that someone posted in this thread. Along with more packing. Is this the right packing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014434X6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There is a big hose in the way, it goes to the transmission (or v-drive?) housing. Can I just remove it?

spyder
05-04-2015, 11:32 AM
i find it easier to access it from the front.. take the removable seat out get in nice and close and put one arm on each side of the v-drive like you're hugging the transmission.. ;)

then get a wrench in each arm.

CookieMonster
05-04-2015, 11:34 AM
Haha well I don't think my arms are long enough..

spyder
05-04-2015, 11:43 AM
Haha well I don't think my arms are long enough..

you gotta get in there and make sweet love to it... seriously.. that's how i do it in the water almost every summer.. lol

i honestly don't know how these guys make it so long without drips.. i honestly tighten mine 2-3 times a summer

wolfeman131
05-04-2015, 12:05 PM
you gotta get in there and make sweet love to it... seriously.. that's how i do it in the water almost every summer.. lol


did you really have to go there in a thread that mentions shafts, nuts, grease and packing?

I remember your old avatar, too . . . .

spyder
05-04-2015, 01:38 PM
did you really have to go there in a thread that mentions shafts, nuts, grease and packing?

I remember your old avatar, too . . . .
http://i.imgur.com/R9lfpWd.gif

chadjitsu1
05-05-2015, 04:12 PM
Its in a bad spot for sure but you have to get in there. You can pull off any hose you want as long as the boats out of the water and as long as you put the hose back on. I believe your talking about the main raw water line from the bottom of the boat right?

CookieMonster
05-05-2015, 04:19 PM
Its in a bad spot for sure but you have to get in there. You can pull off any hose you want as long as the boats out of the water and as long as you put the hose back on. I believe your talking about the main raw water line from the bottom of the boat right?

I think so.. It comes from the water pump so that would be my guess.