First mod finished !

[mark540]

Well finally got my tower cans in. After much modifying of the cans and clamps for through bolts, they are finally installed. I also ran the cat5 cable for the leds at the same time. Not sure why but the speaker wiring came up from the port side and requires coming out of the upright to go into the crosstube. On the starboard side this isn't necessary. Oh well.

The cans sit straight snd level, as with they would have a slight outward angle without modification. Figured i would make the modification before they were mounted.

Curious the amps are not only mismatched, but aren't even marine grade. I have a 400.4 on order, but i may get another for the cabins to replace the A250.4. Right now I am running the 200.2 bridged mono, with the towers wired parallel to get some decent juice to them. The sound much better than in the non-bridged 50 watts per channel.

on to the pics....

[bergermaister]

Nice work Mark.

[philwsailz]

Right now I am running the 200.2 bridged mono, with the towers wired parallel to get some decent juice to them. The sound much better than in the non-bridged 50 watts per channel.

on to the pics....

If you are running the 200.2 bridged into two speakers wired in parallel, you are loading each amp channel down to only 1-ohm. I am really surprised you are not putting the amp into protection mode....

I understand this is a temporary thing as you have the 400.4 on order but please be careful. I would hate to see you have to send in the 200.2 for repair

Phil
Kicker

[mark540]

Thanks Phil, no plans to go crazy, but i might go back to two channel to keep it alive.

Right now the A250.4 is set up with the 4 main cabins parallel and the fronts in the front channel, what is the amp generating to these? My guess is 30 watts to the fronts and 60 to the main cabin is this correct?

when i get the 400.4 for the tower and have the 200.2 free, if i ran it to the bow speakers (50 each 4 ohm) what is the best way to set up the 250.4 for the time being powerwise for the cabin 4 speakers until I get another 400.4?

[BrettLee3232]

Looks good man!! Keep the mods and pics flowin. It's hard to stop once you start lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mmandley]

You'd be surprised how many people Don't run Marine Audio rated amps.

The speakers really need to be Marine due to them getting wet.

I have always stood by the notion if my Amps are getting wet I have a much more serious problem then my amps being wet.

Water has to be pretty deep in my cubby to reach my amps, and the one time I blew an amp due to water was a cross roller hit my port side, and my tower seal was bad so it leaked water. This was on my LSV a couple summers ago.

[MLA]

i with Phil, surprised the 2 ohm bridged load has not put the 200.2 into protect mode.

Let me crunch the numbers on the in-boat amp change.

[mark540]

You'd be surprised how many people Don't run Marine Audio rated amps.

The speakers really need to be Marine due to them getting wet.

I have always stood by the notion if my Amps are getting wet I have a much more serious problem then my amps being wet.

Water has to be pretty deep in my cubby to reach my amps, and the one time I blew an amp due to water was a cross roller hit my port side, and my tower seal was bad so it leaked water. This was on my LSV a couple summers ago.

I have never had it wet in the cubby really so i can see that as well. When i get down to it i am just suprised the amps are mis -matched from the factory, looks janky at best. These are both $200 amps retail, and with their buying power some nice 400.4's could have been used for probably less than $100 each. Oh well I digress, on to making it shine!

[mark540]

i with Phil, surprised the 2 ohm bridged load has not put the 200.2 into protect mode.

Let me crunch the numbers on the in-boat amp change.

I really didn't run it for long or that high, just in the garage testing, maybe it would if i was running it for a while.

thanks for your help.

[mark540]

I am thinking if I run the fronts on the 200.2 that is 50 watts each, and if i run the 250.4 bridged that is 125 watts each, which is probably too much for the in cabins(standard km65's 65 watts rms) So if my thinking is right, i would run the fronts on the 200.2 and the in cabin in parallel like it is currently for 60 watts to the cabins.

Am i thinking correctly? I am a pump guy, not an audio/electroics guy, but you guys definitely help fill in the blanks.

[MLA]

Ok, with the DXA250.4 driving the 6 in-boats:

If the bow pair is on their chnls, they are receiving 30W rms
If the port main cabin pair are wired in parallel on a chnl, they are also receiving 30W. The delivers 60W x 4 @ 2 ohm, so the pair splits that. Same for the stbd pair on the remaining chnl.

IMO, swapping the DXA250.4 for a KXM400.4 is not going to pay off for that investment. Its a great amp and will handle the 3 pair of in-boats with no problem and I would recommend this amp any day of the week. But in your case, Im looking at the dollars spent for only an increase in 20W.

Here is what I would suggest.

Stay the course with the KXM400.4 thats in route for the KM8's on the tower.

Leave the KX200.2 in place and relocate the bow speakers to it for 50W RMS to each. This does two things. 1) gives you a more symetrical look, minus its red LED and 2) has the bow speakers at a little output then the main cabin. This is a very popular configuration. LOTS of wives or GF's (its ok with me if have both, not judging) like a quite zone.

Swap the DXA250.4 for a KXM400.2 for the 2 pair of main cabin speakers. They will now net 100W rms each.


OR

If you dont mind the looks of having different amps and want more juice for the bow speakers, pull the KX200.2, leave the DXA250.4 and wire the bow pair bridged for 125W rms potential to each.

[mark540]

Thanks i need to think about how to set things up, but i will at this point keep the 250.4 instead of getting another 400.4.