Brake bleeding; I need some help and input on what could be wrong

[Cigars n scotch]

First, I know there's already a couple of threads on this topic but I didn't want to bring back to life a dead thread and I have some specific questions to my experience that I am hoping some of you can give me insight on.

Background: I have no brakes, I started a thread last year on it, this is Part Deux.

I've replaced all 4 of my calipers. Old ones were frozen, boots were worn out, and hubs were burning up. So, I tried to bleed them myself and am running into problems. I have a mityvac that I rigged up with the bleeder screw tip off this cheapo brake bleeder I bought from HF, it was my FIL's idea who is a mechanic but he lives in NJ which is why I don't have him helping me.

I began on the port rear (furthest axle back) to bleed, always making sure to fill my master cylinder reservoir. I did all four sides, lots of air bubbles, except the port side front brake did not have any brake fluid coming out of it which I cannot figure out why. (this is the first thing I need help with, troubleshooting ideas as to why? There's no leaks that I have seen or can tell). So I proceeded a second time doing all four axles, with hardly any bubbles out of the three axles. But the fourth still no brake fluid.

I tried checking to see if the brakes worked by stroking the actuator like the UFP directions say to in order to check them, and two of the axles have friction but do not "lock" up the disc (I have my wheels off ATM because I am getting new tires and it makes it easier for access). The third axle disc (starboard rear) just spins, no friction at all and the fourth axle disc (starboard front) obviously spins as well since no brake fluid is coming out.

Any ideas on what might be wrong or is it something I am doing incorrectly? If I can't figure this out and get it fixed myself, then tomorrow I am making an appointment at a local trailer repair shop to get it fixed but I was trying to save myself a couple hundred bucks by doing it myself. I just don't know that much about bleeding brakes and things that could be wrong.

Thank you for reading and any ideas you can throw out there are much appreciated. This has been an annoyance for me for some time, and the longer it stays unfixed the longer I push out getting the rest of the boat ready for the season and I have a ton of other to-do items on my list before the season gets in full swing and not just boat-related.

~Justin

[JHutch]

One thing you might check is the adaptors where the lines cross over the frame. One of mine was rusted and not allowing fluid through the line.

I bleed my brakes so much with actuator that I went through 2 cans of fluid and never got any brakes. I finally ended up taking it to a trailer shop and having them use a power bleeder on them. But I had issues with my lines and a caliper so it was a huge ordeal.

[parrothd]

Sometimes the the mityvacs cause more problems then they solve. Try bleeding manually, start with the farthest away, you'll need two people. Have someone press the hitch in and open the bleeder, then close it and repeat..

[MLA]

Pull the hose/line from the caliper and see of you get fluid from the line. If so, then pull the bleeder and make sure its clear. Leave it out and reconnect the hose/line and feed fluid into the master and see if gravity takes over and fluid start to drip from the bleeder hole.

If no fluid from the hose/line, is it steel or rubber? Rubber hoses can deteriorate inside out and collapse. disconnect where the hose meets a steel line and look for fluid. If steel, inspect for it to be smashed. Fallow back to the T where the main line splits to each side and disconnect there and look for fluid.

[Cigars n scotch]

Pull the hose/line from the caliper and see of you get fluid from the line. If so, then pull the bleeder and make sure its clear. Leave it out and reconnect the hose/line and feed fluid into the master and see if gravity takes over and fluid start to drip from the bleeder hole.

If no fluid from the hose/line, is it steel or rubber? Rubber hoses can deteriorate inside out and collapse. disconnect where the hose meets a steel line and look for fluid. If steel, inspect for it to be smashed. Fallow back to the T where the main line splits to each side and disconnect there and look for fluid.

Thanks Mike. My next step will be to pull the hose connected to the caliper and see if fluid comes out *what you're telling me to do is disconnect that hose and attach my bleeder hose to it? I lost you when you said "leave it out and reconnect hose and feed fluid into master cylinder"? Leave what out? Do you mean leave the rubber hose that connect to the caliper out?

I have rubber brake lines from the axle to the caliper, but steel lines that follow the trailer up to the tongue.

[MLA]

Just pull the hose from the caliper and see what gravity does. With the cap off the master cyl, you will likely get fluid out. If not try the mity-vac or similar. I made a pressure bleeder using a rubber stopper with a hose nipple through it. Held in the master cyl and use outlet side of a mity-vac as opposed to the vac side and pressured the system the same as applying the actuator.

Its a 2 person job but works.

You may have a collapsed rubber line or smashed steel line. Working from the caliper to the tongue, breaking each joint until you get fluid. No you know the issue is somewhere in that last section of line or hose.

[jmb]

I filled my new brake calipers up with fluid before I put them on. Saved a lot of time