2015 Mondo Stereo Build

[BrettLee3232]

Alright fellas, started ordering my stereo equipment & this will be the dedicated thread to highlight everything & post pictures.

Equipment:
(2) Kicker 800.5
(2) Kicker 400.2
(3) Kicker KM64 (Pairs)
(2) Kicker KM8 (Pairs)
(4) Kicker KM10 Subs
(2) Kicker XLMRC Zone Controllers (Tower, Cabin, Bow & Subs)
(1) Odyssey 1200T Battery (Starting)
(1) Odyssey 2150MT Battery (Stereo)
(4) Bullet Lines 8" Tower Cans (Powder Coated)

Super stoked to get everything in. After much debate I've decided to have someone install it for me. I can do it but work is really busy and boat is 3hrs away. So I'm having a company do the install.

They will be putting in (4) 10s under the dash and I'm super stoked on it!

Pictures will come once installation & powder coat start!!!

Thanks for everyone's advice help and continued help!

[jmvotto]

Nices list. Can't wait to see the pictures. Are they doing double isobaric subs with the four 10s

[BrettLee3232]

Nices list. Can't wait to see the pictures. Are they doing double isobaric subs with the four 10s

Not sure how they are doing the box. But I'll let ha know! :cool:

[newty]

4 10"s??? Nice, all about dat BASS. Can't wait to see the results.

[mmandley]

Not sure how they are doing the box. But I'll let ha know! :cool:

Awesome, I would be very careful if they want to put those subs in the Cubby, unless they plan to add vents into the walk way the subs will suffocate and sound weak.

Looking forward to the pics and details as you proceed.

[bergermaister]

Damn, you don't mess around do ya!

Subscribed!

[sivs1]

Nice, here comes the tsunami with all that power and bass.

[trayson]

Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.

[Gettin' It]

Nice. Surprised you are only gonna run one stereo battery. I just got my 15' Mojo and I'm about to start my JL build next week and plan on running 4 Group 24s.

[MLA]

Nice. Surprised you are only gonna run one stereo battery. I just got my 15' Mojo and I'm about to start my JL build next week and plan on running 4 Group 24s.

It all comes down to how much play time one wants while on the hook. Rather that 4 G-24, have you considered a pair of 6V GC's?

Dont want to take Brett's thread off track, so feel free to PM me.

[KG's Supra24]

It all comes down to how much play time one wants while on the hook. Rather that 4 G-24, have you considered a pair of 6V GC's?

Dont want to take Brett's thread off track, so feel free to PM me.

Or start another thread. Love it when stereo build threads start popping up.

This one looks awesome. Interested to see how the 4 subs turn out. Sounds complex!

[BrettLee3232]

Awesome, I would be very careful if they want to put those subs in the Cubby, unless they plan to add vents into the walk way the subs will suffocate and sound weak.

Looking forward to the pics and details as you proceed.

They aren't going in the cubby...they are going under the steering wheel.



Thanks everyone, can't wait to get started. I'm bringing some powder coat swatches this weekend to see what's the best match.

Also I have room for another pair of KM64 to run off my Bow 400.2 so I'm going to put a pair in the walk way :o

KM8s we're back ordered but they shipped today. Hopefully everything will be in by next weekend so I can slay some fish!

[BrettLee3232]

Just an update: Dropped off my Cans to get powder coated. Problem is they won't have the powder for at least a week :mad:

[BrettLee3232]

Got my powder today & from the pictures they look pretty sweet!!!!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/brettlee3232/Mobile%20Uploads/2D4C73D7-8B26-4EF4-B827-DF135B5F355B.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/brettlee3232/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2D4C73D7-8B26-4EF4-B827-DF135B5F355B.jpg.html)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/brettlee3232/Mobile%20Uploads/FFA65463-4DC5-4991-8BA9-D83C3C4A3185.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/brettlee3232/media/Mobile%20Uploads/FFA65463-4DC5-4991-8BA9-D83C3C4A3185.jpg.html)

[mark540]

Brett did you check the speakers in the cans? I bought the same cans and KM8's and they didn't fit without clearencing the opening. Ended up being about an 1/8" to clear the speaker cage, and it was a pain even with a dremel. Look good though. I bought the RGB weather led strips with controller for $15 and it works perfectly with the speakers, and now i have 15' of led's for the boat. Couple of pics for you reference.

[mark540]

Also forgot to mention I sprayed sound deadening material in the cans and it seemed to make the bass a little richer, this is on my home stereo, since the boat is not here, but the do sound good at least in the house.

The powder coat looks phenomenal on yours by the way.

[BrettLee3232]

Brett did you check the speakers in the cans? I bought the same cans and KM8's and they didn't fit without clearencing the opening. Ended up being about an 1/8" to clear the speaker cage, and it was a pain even with a dremel. Look good though. I bought the RGB weather led strips with controller for $15 and it works perfectly with the speakers, and now i have 15' of led's for the boat. Couple of pics for you reference.

I never checked the clearance. The speakers are at my storage unit and I had the cans here. I even emailed Bullet Lines to make sure they would fit my KM8s before I powdercoated. Here is what they replied...


They will fit the cans.. Put a speaker in it
I'm going to be really pissed off if they do not fit.


Also forgot to mention I sprayed sound deadening material in the cans and it seemed to make the bass a little richer, this is on my home stereo, since the boat is not here, but the do sound good at least in the house.

The powder coat looks phenomenal on yours by the way.

What type of sound dampening did you use?

I'm really happy with the color of the powder coat turned out really good!

[mark540]

I used a can of spray sound deadening material i got at Autozone, it wss ovver by their stereo stuff, although i don't think it is much different than rubberized undercoating. They should keep the sound focus back instead down in the boat.

[BrettLee3232]

Brought my cans to the boat today. Color matches pretty close. They are a little darker & brighter but being on the tower you won't notice. I'm pretty happy with them!!!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/brettlee3232/Mobile%20Uploads/BDAF7F18-7CE5-4E31-95AD-D8BEA3B32CB5.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/brettlee3232/media/Mobile%20Uploads/BDAF7F18-7CE5-4E31-95AD-D8BEA3B32CB5.jpg.html)

Also Mark, I did have an issue with the fitment. Going to have to grind each one down. Really pisses me off but I spoke with Ken at Bullet Lines & he's gonna hook me up with a discount. Real nice guy...
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/brettlee3232/Mobile%20Uploads/9D675CAE-C873-4A7A-BAC6-964C077A923A.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/brettlee3232/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9D675CAE-C873-4A7A-BAC6-964C077A923A.jpg.html)

[MLA]

Sorry you had to find out after the coating. All the aluminum pods we've loaded with the KM8, we have had to open up. I have found that a skill saw with a metal cutting blade works fast an easy. Just tape the pop off real well and I even mask the bottom of the skill saw base just to reduce any marring.

[mark540]

I think i found out why they don't fit and he is giving a discount. They are actually their 7.7 cans, marketed as fitting some 8" speakers. Is he giving $25 off? That is the price difference between the two cans. The KM8s may slightly smaller than 8", but they are definitely larger than 7.7". You will need to drill holes as well they are to far inboard for the KM8 location.

MLA a skil saw is a good idea, but how do hold them while cutting? I started to do this, but it was a bear to cut and hug the can at the same time. I thought about making a jig out wood(shape of an L) to bolt the can to, but figured i would have more time in that then breaking out the dremel.

[MLA]

Although the 7.7 and KM8 are both in an 8" speaker class, the KM8 is slightly larger. The 7.7 need a 6-1/4" cutout and the KM8 needs a 6-11/16" cutout.

With the pod wrapped up to protect the finish, I just held them upright and made the cut. My arm was dead after doing 4 in a row thought.

[mark540]

Gotcha, i wasn't getting as smooth a line as i wanted with that method, i think i was pushing the jigsaw too hard. Mine are a tight fit now in the housing, any issues with the cage being tight to the cutout? Reason i ask is the hole was definitely bigger than 6 1/4" so the 7.7" would be loose. Kind of burns me these are the same cans that are $25 cheaper on the same website.

[MLA]

snug fit should be fine as long as it did not require the speaker to be forced in.

[trayson]

Sorry you had to find out after the coating. All the aluminum pods we've loaded with the KM8, we have had to open up. I have found that a skill saw with a metal cutting blade works fast an easy. Just tape the pop off real well and I even mask the bottom of the skill saw base just to reduce any marring.

Are you meaning a jig saw or a scroll saw? I am trying to picture how you'd use a skill saw as I'm familiar with to cut the holes bigger...

This is what I visualize when I hear "skill saw", and I am curious if that's what you really meant...
http://coastequipmentrental.com/images/products/skill%20saw.jpg

[BrettLee3232]

Sorry you had to find out after the coating. All the aluminum pods we've loaded with the KM8, we have had to open up. I have found that a skill saw with a metal cutting blade works fast an easy. Just tape the pop off real well and I even mask the bottom of the skill saw base just to reduce any marring.

Ha it's just a bummer, the guy doing the install is going to use a grinder. Hopefully it doesn't jack up the powder.


I think i found out why they don't fit and he is giving a discount. They are actually their 7.7 cans, marketed as fitting some 8" speakers. Is he giving $25 off? That is the price difference between the two cans. The KM8s may slightly smaller than 8", but they are definitely larger than 7.7". You will need to drill holes as well they are to far inboard for the KM8 location.

MLA a skil saw is a good idea, but how do hold them while cutting? I started to do this, but it was a bear to cut and hug the can at the same time. I thought about making a jig out wood(shape of an L) to bolt the can to, but figured i would have more time in that then breaking out the dremel.

Originally I emailed him and said "hey the box says 7.7 not 8....are you sure these are for the MM8s?" He said "yeah, stick them in there they will fit!" I told him I was trusting him since I didn't have the speakers yet and I needed to send them off to powder coat.

[MLA]

Are you meaning a jig saw or a scroll saw? I am trying to picture how you'd use a skill saw as I'm familiar with to cut the holes bigger...

This is what I visualize when I hear "skill saw", and I am curious if that's what you really meant...
http://coastequipmentrental.com/images/products/skill%20saw.jpg

Nah, much bigger

[trayson]

Nah, much bigger

So like this?

http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/attachments/4x4-clubs-off-roaders-suv/970485d1248240900-earth-movers-800px-rockwheel_2006-07-30.km_bch_pakwheels-com-.jpg

[mark540]

So like this?

http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/attachments/4x4-clubs-off-roaders-suv/970485d1248240900-earth-movers-800px-rockwheel_2006-07-30.km_bch_pakwheels-com-.jpg

That would work, you can hold the can with 2 hands, I think you would have to deburr a little when your done though....

[BrettLee3232]

So with the curve of my tower I'm stuck with "not level" speakers. Hopefully it doesn't look to bad in person. Stereo guy sent this to me

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/brettlee3232/Mobile%20Uploads/E9E7FDE3-3043-4E97-8E14-2BEBEE3E8C01.png (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/brettlee3232/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E9E7FDE3-3043-4E97-8E14-2BEBEE3E8C01.png.html)


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[trayson]

what about taking the one that's in the foreground and rotating it so it points up to the same degree as the one in the background? When you're wakeboarding or surfing and have bow rise, it'd make sense to have it that way anyway. I think it's fine of course that they're staggered, but I'd at least try to get the faces on a similar plane.

Although I'm sure in person you prob won't notice much.

[BrettLee3232]

4 10s
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/brettlee3232/Mobile%20Uploads/066D8044-4B4C-49BB-B47C-3B3FFA59E2CE.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/brettlee3232/media/Mobile%20Uploads/066D8044-4B4C-49BB-B47C-3B3FFA59E2CE.jpg.html)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/brettlee3232/Mobile%20Uploads/194F348B-B0D3-4671-8893-2B04DA0432B2.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/brettlee3232/media/Mobile%20Uploads/194F348B-B0D3-4671-8893-2B04DA0432B2.jpg.html)


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[BrettLee3232]

what about taking the one that's in the foreground and rotating it so it points up to the same degree as the one in the background? When you're wakeboarding or surfing and have bow rise, it'd make sense to have it that way anyway. I think it's fine of course that they're staggered, but I'd at least try to get the faces on a similar plane.

Although I'm sure in person you prob won't notice much.

Ya after install I can always see what I can do, thanks!


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[trayson]

4 10s
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/brettlee3232/Mobile%20Uploads/066D8044-4B4C-49BB-B47C-3B3FFA59E2CE.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/brettlee3232/media/Mobile%20Uploads/066D8044-4B4C-49BB-B47C-3B3FFA59E2CE.jpg.html)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/brettlee3232/Mobile%20Uploads/194F348B-B0D3-4671-8893-2B04DA0432B2.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/brettlee3232/media/Mobile%20Uploads/194F348B-B0D3-4671-8893-2B04DA0432B2.jpg.html)

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I can't wait to see how this turns out!!! #WallOfBoom

[jstenger]

So with the curve of my tower I'm stuck with "not level" speakers. Hopefully it doesn't look to bad in person. Stereo guy sent this to me

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/brettlee3232/Mobile%20Uploads/E9E7FDE3-3043-4E97-8E14-2BEBEE3E8C01.png (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/brettlee3232/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E9E7FDE3-3043-4E97-8E14-2BEBEE3E8C01.png.html)


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You can easily fix it. You need to rotate your tower clamp more, and then rotate your speaker till it's level.

[BrettLee3232]

You can easily fix it. You need to rotate your tower clamp more, and then rotate your speaker till it's level.

There's only so many mounting options on the clamp. Due to the shape and location that was the best outcome.


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[jstenger]

As Trayson said, your bow will rise. I took a dial type level out on the water with me. I set it on the gunwale and recorded the angles at rest, wakeboarding, and surfing. I picked the average angle. During the speaker install, I jacked the tounge of the boat up till it read the angle I wanted. I leveled the speakers at that point.

[jstenger]

There's only so many mounting options on the clamp. Due to the shape and location that was the best outcome.


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Do your cans have predrilled holes at the mounting point?

[BrettLee3232]

Do your cans have predrilled holes at the mounting point?

Yes they do...holes drilled around in a circle so you can adjust it but there's not enough holes I guess lol


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[newty]

That looks like fun!

[MLA]

Brett,

Those pods have a series of holes that allow for indexing the pod and clamp. If there is not a pair of mounting holes that allow the pod to be oriented correctly with the other pod, I would mark 2 spots and drill me 2 new holes that would.

[mark540]

Just looked at the setup, the can has 8 tapped holes 22.5° apart and it doesn,t look like there is enough room inbetween for another set. The clamp may be the only other choice, it is drilled and then countersunk inside for the caphead screw. This could be opened by a machine shop on a mill with a rotation clamp, it has to be in an arch, so basically elongating the mounting hole in the clamp to allow for any necessary angle on the can.

[MLA]

rather that tapped holes, drill all the way through into the pod and use a longer bolt with a large washer and nylock nut. Eliminates the fear of encroaching into another thread hole

[mark540]

rather that tapped holes, drill all the way through into the pod and use a longer bolt with a large washer and nylock nut. Eliminates the fear of encroaching into another thread hole

May work, but there isn't much room, you would need to go with a smaller hole and hardware.

[BrettLee3232]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/15/9f56f7d029d692cc909f6070cfffd9b3.jpg


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[mark540]

Wow! never thought they would all fit under there. Should rattle some teeth! So what is that hanging down in the picture?

[BrettLee3232]

Wow! never thought they would all fit under there. Should rattle some teeth!

Only 800watts under there but I'm pretty sure it's gonna hit hard enough for this boat. If I upgrade the boat next year or year after I might do (2) 15" L7s w/ (2) 1200.1 Amps


So what is that hanging down in the picture?

No idea, but it looks important haha


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[bergermaister]

Damn. As I read through I was wondering where the hell you were going to fit that wall of boom.

My ears are ringing just looking at it.

[trayson]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/15/9f56f7d029d692cc909f6070cfffd9b3.jpg


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Me likey!!!!!

[MLA]

May be only 800W rms, but four 10's is a lot of surface area to move air. And the KM 10 is very musical at that.

@ Mark,

No need for smaller hardware. Drill all the into the pod, dont tap the hole, use washer an nut. With 2 bolts opposing each other through the clamp and pod, no more chance of moving then if they were actually slotted.

[mark540]

MLA yeah that will work. Cant tell by the picture but that will move it down 12.25° that should get them pretty level with each other.

Brett, how are they looking from the back? Are they parallel with each other in that direction? I plan on putting mine like your pair on the top bar and wanted to know if the cans point straight back or are they slightly pointing outward or inward?

I guess this where the Exile or WS swival clamps would be of benefit.

[BrettLee3232]

MLA yeah that will work. Cant tell by the picture but that will move it down 12.25° that should get them pretty level with each other.

Brett, how are they looking from the back? Are they parallel with each other in that direction? I plan on putting mine like your pair on the top bar and wanted to know if the cans point straight back or are they slightly pointing outward or inward?

I guess this where the Exile or WS swival clamps would be of benefit.

I haven't seen it yet but I will let you know.

I wish exile or WS would sell just their pods and clamps!


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[mbusch5]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/15/9f56f7d029d692cc909f6070cfffd9b3.jpg


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What are the dimensions of that beast? Are you putting the hump back or removing it entirely? I was only able to fit 1 10" with the hump and steering cable coming up through the space. Curious how you made the room.

[BrettLee3232]

What are the dimensions of that beast? Are you putting the hump back or removing it entirely? I was only able to fit 1 10" with the hump and steering cable coming up through the space. Curious how you made the room.

I didn't have a hump, not sure of the dimensions. I'm having someone build the box for me.


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[jstenger]

What are the dimensions of that beast? Are you putting the hump back or removing it entirely? I was only able to fit 1 10" with the hump and steering cable coming up through the space. Curious how you made the room.
2015's don't have the hump. Just cut the hump off like I did. You will have all kinds of room.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/16/847f5370b4e1661a900a935c873cf709.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/16/e523b2cb1582947ce95201f798cc740a.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/16/67b628beddba2e23084b287eab9465b1.jpg

[BrettLee3232]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/16/da7f4c88a1baeb39214b287cb764bcad.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/16/58eab346f56f5f3e56f8889232e78244.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/16/c4f835da9d579b9caa0a2e5571772ac0.jpg


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[Badfoot]

Wooooah! I think I hear it now and I'm on the east cost.

[New Guy]

That looks great! I'm sure it is going to sounds awesome!

[BrettLee3232]

Thanks guys, I can't wait to see the finished product!


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[BrettLee3232]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/16/0860d69e92b9b3037587517b639b8305.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/16/a2b6818b28ae8c0b7385850dd03dcd1a.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/16/f7990ea07920e0b682d2585589ef151a.jpg


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[bergermaister]

L-o-v-e it!

[BamaMojo]

Looks great! Enjoy!


2012 Mojo

[viking]

I LIKE. Where are your batteries located?

[BrettLee3232]

I LIKE. Where are your batteries located?

I believe under the port seat where the stock was located but not sure.


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[mark540]

Brett do you have 2 more amps hiding somewhere? Was just looking at your sig and it shows 4 400.2's. Do the km6's have leds too? Are your subs run off the sub channel on the 800.5s or are they bridged somehow?

Looks killer all lit up.

[BrettLee3232]

Brett do you have 2 more amps hiding somewhere? Was just looking at your sig and it shows 4 400.2's. Do the km6's have leds too? Are your subs run off the sub channel on the 800.5s or are they bridged somehow?

Looks killer all lit up.

Nope my bad haha...

I didn't buy the LED KM6s since the 4 cabins didn't have them. I kinda wish I would of though haha oh well

2 subs for each 800.5
2 4ohm subs make a 2ohm load at 400watts rms


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[BrettLee3232]

May be only 800W rms, but four 10's is a lot of surface area to move air. And the KM 10 is very musical at that.

@ Mark,

No need for smaller hardware. Drill all the into the pod, dont tap the hole, use washer an nut. With 2 bolts opposing each other through the clamp and pod, no more chance of moving then if they were actually slotted.

Hey Mike,

Quick question, I noticed on my amp rack pictures that all the channels were full on the 800.5s. I called my installer and reminded him I wanted the towers bridged off the 800.

He ran 2 towers in series off a 400.2 to make it 8ohm. So 200 watts to each pod but 8ohm.

He ran the 8 in boats off the 800.5's.

His reasoning was the amp will run cooler at 8ohm etc.

Am I missing something here? Is this way ok? Or should I have him re-do it? Which means pulling another pair of wires up the tower.


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[MLA]

He ran 2 towers in series off a 400.2 to make it 8ohm. So 200 watts to each pod but 8ohm

8 ohm bridge would net the same 4 ohm x 2 output, so 200 x 1. Sorry to say, that only 100 to each pod.

Now for the in-boats on the 800 and not the 400.2. Thats a 50W rms different. two pair of speakers on the 400.2 would net 100W rms to each speaker. with them on the 800.5, they are only getting 50W rms.


His reasoning was the amp will run cooler at 8ohm etc.

I totally understand his reasoning. On the other hand, I have pushed the snot out of those KXM amps and overheating is not going to be an issue.

The 400.2 is designed specifically for the job of running up to 2 pair of tower speaker @ 2 ohm x 2. So no worried with it driving 2 pair of speakers @ 2 ohm p/chnl

If you really want to get the most out of those KM8's, run them bridged so each gets 200W rms. Hate to say it, yes, run more cabling.

[BrettLee3232]

8 ohm bridge would net the same 4 ohm x 2 output, so 200 x 1. Sorry to say, that only 100 to each pod.

Now for the in-boats on the 800 and not the 400.2. Thats a 50W rms different. two pair of speakers on the 400.2 would net 100W rms to each speaker. with them on the 800.5, they are only getting 50W rms.



I totally understand his reasoning. On the other hand, I have pushed the snot out of those KXM amps and overheating is not going to be an issue.

The 400.2 is designed specifically for the job of running up to 2 pair of tower speaker @ 2 ohm x 2. So no worried with it driving 2 pair of speakers @ 2 ohm p/chnl

If you really want to get the most out of those KM8's, run them bridged so each gets 200W rms. Hate to say it, yes, run more cabling.

Thanks Mike,

He wants me to hear it before he changes it. So I'll give it a shot first.


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[BrettLee3232]

The tower folds completely down with the speakers (thank God, I was a little worried haha) you can also see the plug added for the chargerhttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/431f0023d7cfbb44064d1105e483d43b.jpg

Custom volume controls for "Subs, Tower, Cabin & Bow" I'm going to have some custom stickers made to label them or figure something out.http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/b7252e1e2d5eff9a0b8978f7aa1c5f31.jpg


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[MLA]

Knowing the gear, i am confident it will not sound bad in any way. Knowing the potential of those speakers with the available wattage if configured like we originally discussed, its a whole different ball game.

[BrettLee3232]

Knowing the gear, i am confident it will not sound bad in any way. Knowing the potential of those speakers with the available wattage if configured like we originally discussed, its a whole different ball game.

I trust your knowledge Mike. I will give them a listen for a weekend and will have them changed. I just don't want to belittle him or criticize his work because he did an awesome job from what I've seen in pictures.

I did tell him awhile ago how I wanted it wired but he must of forgot. I just figured it was common sense but there's always more than one way to do things I guess.


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[MLA]

Let me be clear......nothings wired wrong, just some wattage left untapped.

[mark540]

Brett, looks like the top cans are canted outward slightly, let me know when you see it if that is the case. If so I may need to rethink where to put them, nice that the tower still goes down fully, that would be a deal breaker for me.

Mike you mentioned untapped wattage, how would you run those towers and on what amp? I have a similar setup, minus the kick butt subs and one set of towers, so I would like to hear your advise, for running one and two sets of towers if you don't mind sharing. I may go with 2 sets eventually like Brett, but for now i have one set.

[mark540]

Oh and Brett a little sound bite of that bad boy in action would be awesome, if you get a chance.

[BrettLee3232]

Brett, looks like the top cans are canted outward slightly, let me know when you see it if that is the case. If so I may need to rethink where to put them, nice that the tower still goes down fully, that would be a deal breaker for me.

Mike you mentioned untapped wattage, how would you run those towers and on what amp? I have a similar setup, minus the kick butt subs and one set of towers, so I would like to hear your advise, for running one and two sets of towers if you don't mind sharing. I may go with 2 sets eventually like Brett, but for now i have one set.

I don't see it but I'll check it out closer Monday.

Ideally you would push each speaker with 200 watts rms. mike originally said bridge the 800.5 to 2 tower speakers giving 200 watts to 2 speakers. You could also do the 400.4 to accomplish this.

I chose to do 2 800.5s for both tower pair & 4 subs to save on amps.

Depending what sub/s your going to do will help you choose which amp to do.


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[mark540]

Ok so a 400.2 not bridged is only 100 watts at 4 ohms(saw the rating of 200 watts rms @ 2 ohms in the manual) and the 400.4 bridged is 200 watts at 4 ohms?

Thanks trying to educate myself before buying my tower amp.

[BrettLee3232]

Ok so a 400.2 not bridged is only 100 watts at 4 ohms(saw the rating of 200 watts rms @ 2 ohms in the manual) and the 400.4 bridged is 200 watts at 4 ohms?

Thanks trying to educate myself before buying my tower amp.

400.2 = 400watt bridged 4ohm mono
400.2 = 200x2 2ohm or 100watt per channel
You can tie 2 speakers in parallel for each channel & have 50watt per speaker (which is what I did) for 6 1/2" speakers.

400.4 = 200x4 2ohm
400.4 = 200x2 4ohm bridged mono

If you wanted to do just 2 8" on tower you would either do a 400x4 bridged or a 800.5 bridged & run 2 4ohm KM10" subs or save the sub channel for future.


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[jstenger]

Brett, looks like the top cans are canted outward slightly, let me know when you see it if that is the case. If so I may need to rethink where to put them, nice that the tower still goes down fully, that would be a deal breaker for me.

Mike you mentioned untapped wattage, how would you run those towers and on what amp? I have a similar setup, minus the kick butt subs and one set of towers, so I would like to hear your advise, for running one and two sets of towers if you don't mind sharing. I may go with 2 sets eventually like Brett, but for now i have one set.
Without infinate rotation clamps like Exile and Wetsounds, the speakers will follow the curve of the tower tube that they are mounted too. You are limited to 22.5 degree rotational adjustments with the pods you guys are using.

[MLA]

Mark,

The Kicker KM8 as a tower speaker really shines when driven in the 200W rms range. For a single pair, the KXM400.4 is a perfect option. For 2 pair, you can run dual 400.4 or a single 2 chnl like the Arc KS300.2

[mark540]

Without infinate rotation clamps like Exile and Wetsounds, the speakers will follow the curve of the tower tube that they are mounted too. You are limited to 22.5 degree rotational adjustments with the pods you guys are using.

I guess using the bracket where they mount the factory Roswells eliminates this issue on non swival clamp speakers, as I see that it is slotted to allow the extra required movement

Brett/Mike thanks, I'll go with the 400.4 bridged.

[BrettLee3232]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/brettlee3232/Mobile%20Uploads/07F70535-C59E-4CB1-B6B9-89336FE5282C.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/brettlee3232/media/Mobile%20Uploads/07F70535-C59E-4CB1-B6B9-89336FE5282C.jpg.html)

Ughhhhh, from a distance it looks like my powder coat color looks a lot different!


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[dusty2221]

Were you not able to fix the angle?

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[BrettLee3232]

Were you not able to fix the angle?

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I haven't seen the boat yet...I will be out there mañana!


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[mark540]

Brett, may not be quitting time on the left coast yet, just awaiting your update on the boat.

[mmandley]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/brettlee3232/Mobile%20Uploads/07F70535-C59E-4CB1-B6B9-89336FE5282C.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/brettlee3232/media/Mobile%20Uploads/07F70535-C59E-4CB1-B6B9-89336FE5282C.jpg.html)

Ughhhhh, from a distance it looks like my powder coat color looks a lot different!


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Looks pretty sweet, also remember the speakers are in the sun and the boat is not.

Shadows can make colors look very different then in the sun.

I don't they need to be 100% trust me most will not notice and those who do will appriciate the fact you put in effort. You using 2 different materials and trying to color match them perfectly.

[BrettLee3232]

More pics...http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/137c149ec9aeaab35749d0811ff04c13.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/a708880e762efbd3cbe3ce5009b68e88.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/61a3b9fd1c2b96487a298aaa651f611d.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/5d14242b48ac01e029a2cd285698da5e.jpg


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[BrettLee3232]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/9d0c8db9990c03620e48a6274d80c2da.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/f09657fed2e799b09a89e0084c8a4511.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/27e9b175ac8a1949af4fe87b4cbdd5ac.jpg


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[BrettLee3232]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/2294481621461ebf14636b86a5d50b4b.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/d1bd79d4ff9e81a0f346b99e2c0ef31c.jpg


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[BrettLee3232]

Brett, may not be quitting time on the left coast yet, just awaiting your update on the boat.

Boat sounds great, hits pretty hard. Very very loud. I love having the 4 volume controls. I didn't loose any foot room.


Looks pretty sweet, also remember the speakers are in the sun and the boat is not.

Shadows can make colors look very different then in the sun.

I don't they need to be 100% trust me most will not notice and those who do will appriciate the fact you put in effort. You using 2 different materials and trying to color match them

Thanks man I'm sure it will be fine. Not to worried about it


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[btbpreston]

Looks awesome. I have a bunch of the new kicker stuff ready to go in the boat, just need more time in the garage.

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[BrettLee3232]

Looks awesome. I have a bunch of the new kicker stuff ready to go in the boat, just need more time in the garage.

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What are you getting?


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[mark540]

Looks great Brett, nicely done on the volume controls.

[kaneboats]

Looks awesome. I have a bunch of the new kicker stuff ready to go in the boat, just need more time in the garage.

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Nope. Not true till you post your pics of the new setup. :cool:

[btbpreston]

What are you getting?


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3 pairs of KM654LCW
1 pair of KM84LCW
1 KMW104LC
1 S12L7

[btbpreston]

Nope. Not true till you post your pics of the new setup. :cool:
Didn't want to hijack the moomba forum since I have a MB. But here you go😁
Got the KM8's installed. The KMW104LC hasn't arrived yet.
21874218752187621877

[Gettin' It]

Sick build bro, I love the set-up and lighting.

[BrettLee3232]

Let me be clear......nothings wired wrong, just some wattage left untapped.

Reviving my old thread 😁

Mike,
What do you feel about swapping out one of my 400.2 amps for another 800.5 and adding 2 more 10s as "boat shakers"?




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[MLA]

Remind me again what the 400.2 is driving and I gather those speakers would be relocated to the full range chnls of the new 800.5?

How many KM10's are in there now, 4 as it is? Where are considering adding 2 more? I would maybe consider a single 12" 2 ohm

[BrettLee3232]

Remind me again what the 400.2 is driving and I gather those speakers would be relocated to the full range chnls of the new 800.5?

How many KM10's are in there now, 4 as it is? Where are considering adding 2 more? I would maybe consider a single 12" 2 ohm

400.2 is powering 2 KM8s on tower

Yes 4 10s

Hmmmm haven't considered a 12"


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[MLA]

2 pair of KM8 on the tower or 2 of the 4 pods?

[BrettLee3232]

Each pair is in parallel off a 400.2


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[BrettLee3232]

2 pair of KM8 on the tower or 2 of the 4 pods?

Or a 1200.1 & a 12" L7? 😁


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[MLA]

8 KM654LCW in-boats on the two KXM400.2 for 100W rms to each

4 KM8 on tower each bridged to the two KXM800.5 for 200W rms to each

Leave the current KM10L as they are

KXM1200.1 to an L7 122 with the new L series marine LED grill to match the other grills.

[russellsmojo]

Sick build bro, I love the set-up and lighting.


Can you pm me a picture of your boat. I am curious about the shaved emblems and window tint for my boat. Thanks.

[BrettLee3232]

8 KM654LCW in-boats on the two KXM400.2 for 100W rms to each

4 KM8 on tower each bridged to the two KXM800.5 for 200W rms to each

Leave the current KM10L as they are

KXM1200.1 to an L7 122 with the new L series marine LED grill to match the other grills.

If I did do this L7 would it be best to do a box in the storage area or cut it in the walkway below my 2 speakers? Would the bass affect those 2 speakers at all? Since so much air is going to be radiating off the opposite wall?


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[ian ashton]

I love the L7 - I've had multiple set ups in both boats, all have been great.

That said, inside the storage is the worst spot for a sub - build a ported box under the helm, you'll be very happy.

[MLA]

Brett,

Considering you have the existing 4 KM10 woofers direct radiating from under the helm, I would not suggest the woofer be front loaded through the walkway wall. This has the new woofer on a different plane from the existing four. Stick with the original plan and make the new woofer(s) a boat shaker. Yes, a closed locker is not the most ideal spot for a woofer, but more specifically, when its the only woofer. If there is a primary woofer setup thats direct radiating, them im perfectly happy with a 2nd woofer with the intention on adding to the rumble.

[KG's Supra24]

Are ya'll talking about 5 subs? :confused:

[David Analog]

Brett,
I'm going to strongly recommend that you do not add subwoofers in a second location.
Within the port locker is awful and creates countless additional problems.
Rear lockers on each side of the engine is even worse.
You could add another woofer in an enclosure that is sealed up against the pass-thru wall and completely isolated from the port locker air space. Two problems with that. First, just as much of the sub's output is dissipated upward and in the direction of the bow, so a 12" would add about as much as a 10" in a better location, or less. Adding a 10" to four 10" is hardly impactful and uses a lot of precious power and supply voltage. Second, the sub's phase alignment is a product of the distance plus the surrounding planes and orientation. So I do not see that subwoofer being a coherent addition with the existing four subs even though the point of emanation appears to be in line. Sure, you would get some incremental output increase, you would get more boat shaking, but you might very well see a decrease in bass sound quality. And I do not believe the results would be in line with the investment.
If you want stronger, more dominant bass, then re-do what you have under the driver's helm.

[BrettLee3232]

Just an update,

Decided not to do an additional sub. Will wait for new boat.

I finally decided to get some custom vinyl stickers made for my switch covers.

I had them make stickers for all the plates so they match. Excited to put them on tomorrow.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/5aaf0b61c5d093aca8e317ec4155e983.jpg


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[BrettLee3232]

So the stickers turned out great but then I decided to jump in the lake with my phone so I lost all my pictures. Will snap a few next trip out.


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[KG's Supra24]

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/ca/4b/fc/ca4bfcaf02972a50e1ce696334cdd5c2.jpg

[BrettLee3232]

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/ca/4b/fc/ca4bfcaf02972a50e1ce696334cdd5c2.jpg

Yeah, but I never connected to wifi....http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160609/686bd4381893ff18a8dbdfafad938a26.jpg


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[BrettLee3232]

Looking at the close up I need to line up the volume knobs better haha.

So glad I added these stickers for my custom volume controls. My OCD was killing me everytime I looked down and read "ACC" plus trying to tell someone the third or fourth volume knob to turn down a zone was getting old haha.

Obviously the other bank of switched matches these as well.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160620/9f2e39e5d062f8c770a7b56e6987eb25.jpg


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[BrettLee3232]

Well I'm thinking of a winter stereo upgrade & I think I'm going to add a Kicker 15" L7 & a KXM1200.1. I've been talking to my installer and I asked him if I could do it in my walkway under my (2) 6.5s. He likes the ideA & has put them in that location on previous Install's & he likes it.

Now I know all the stereo gurus on here do not like different subwoofers in different orientations in a boat. That is my only option for a location & I know it's not the best "musical" location but that's why I have my (4) 10s for. This will be a rumbler. I want to be felt not just heard!

Thoughts/questions/tips/concerns?




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[BrettLee3232]

P.S wife won't let me get a new boat so that's why I'm going to upgrade the stereo 😂


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[KG's Supra24]

That's a big fiberglass hole. Dunno if that matters or not.

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[dusty2221]

I have an exile sub amp that would power another sub for you. Make ya a great deal.

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[BrettLee3232]

I have an exile sub amp that would power another sub for you. Make ya a great deal.

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Would love to take you up on that offer, but my OCD has to have matching everything. That's why I stick with all kicker haha. But thanks though!


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[BrettLee3232]

That's a big fiberglass hole. Dunno if that matters or not.

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Yep, no turning back once that baby's cut lol


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[KG's Supra24]

Kinda in conjuction with the other thread .... what is your battery setup?

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[BrettLee3232]

Kinda in conjuction with the other thread .... what is your battery setup?

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(1) Odyssey 1200T Battery (Starting)
(1) Odyssey 2150MT Battery (Stereo)


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[BrettLee3232]

So I spoke with my installer and he wants to do a ported box for the 15" in the walkway. He will have to do a little fiberglass work to make the box work but he thinks it will be an awesome upgrade & wont negatively effect my bass at all (since they are firing in different planes).


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[dusty2221]

And your single stereo battery will support adding another amp to power a 15" sub for extended time along with everything else?

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[BrettLee3232]

And your single stereo battery will support adding another amp to power a 15" sub for extended time along with everything else?

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Yes, he estimated full volume beached about 6-7hrs with the additional amp. Which is fine by me. We never play full volume for that long anyways. Big weekends we always have multiple boats anyways. Plus we charge/condition after every day.


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[dusty2221]

Did I read right, this is a 100ah battery?

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[BrettLee3232]

Did I read right, this is a 100ah battery?

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Yep, were you expecting more?


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[KG's Supra24]

I think i ended up with 235ah stereo bank (dual 6v) and approximate 3500 watt system.

I don't remember what the magic formula is for play time.

I'd guess your wattage may be more?

Can't wait to see the 15 there. Port side, right?

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[BrettLee3232]

I think i ended up with 235ah stereo bank (dual 6v) and approximate 3500 watt system.

I don't remember what the magic formula is for play time.

I'd guess your wattage may be more?

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As is I have 2400watts & will be 3600 when I add the 15".

I'm not sure the magical number either but when he did my stereo he had it on for 8+ hours about 75% and no issue. I've also ran about 7hrs straight with no issue.


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[David Analog]

Existing 4 X 10-inch subs are in a sealed enclosure, correct?
New 15-inch subwoofer in a sealed or ported enclosure?

[BrettLee3232]

Existing 4 X 10-inch subs are in a sealed enclosure, correct?
New 15-inch subwoofer in a sealed or ported enclosure?

Correct.

15" will be ported.


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[David Analog]

Correct.
15" will be ported.
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Then you will have multiple phase responses at the same frequencies.

[trayson]

As is I have 2400watts & will be 3600 when I add the 15".

I'm not sure the magical number either but when he did my stereo he had it on for 8+ hours about 75% and no issue. I've also ran about 7hrs straight with no issue.


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I'm finding this formula, which would say that at full tilt you'd drain your battery in under an hour...


Music With The Engine Off

If your only concern is listening to the music while the engine is not running, then you can calculate the current draw of the new stereo and estimate approximately how long the battery will last. In most instances this can be calculated using the following formula:

10 x (Battery Capacity in Amp Hours) / (Load Power in Watts) = Run Time in Hours

Let's look at an example. If you had a 500 watt amplifier and an Optima YellowTop® battery with a Ah rating (amp hours) of 75, using our formula above we can calculate a run time of 1.5 hours with the engine off (750/500 = 1.5 hours).

[BrettLee3232]

I'm finding this formula, which would say that at full tilt you'd drain your battery in under an hour...

So as of right now I'm suppose to have 0.416 hr? Maybe my math is wrong but 10 x 100 = 1000 / 2400 = 0.416

Doesn't seem right cause I've personally had it on for over 7+hrs near full volume.


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[KG's Supra24]

On the denominator, don't you have to divide your rated wattage by voltage? ........ 2400/12v or 2400/14.4v ... so that would leave 1000/200 @ 12v = 5 hours on the old system? New one being 3600/12 = 1000/300 = 3.333 hours?

Again ... I'm not sure if thats the magic formula or not

If you take the wattage output number (500 in the example) ... almost everyone will reflect less than 1 hour playtime.

[trayson]

So as of right now I'm suppose to have 0.416 hr? Maybe my math is wrong but 10 x 100 = 1000 / 2400 = 0.416

Doesn't seem right cause I've personally had it on for over 7+hrs near full volume.


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Well, I'm sure your system isn't going to be consuming the FULL 2400 watts. Music is dynamic to the wattage is going to vary with every note of the music. That said, I am surprised that you're getting that kind of run time off a single battery. I have about the same RMS wattage as you do (I'm taking my RMS rating at 12v not 14v), running 4 class D amps and after an hour or two I'll start to get clipping on my sub amp as it's running out of voltage from the batteries. And I have a pair of 105 Amp Hour batteries.

I'd imagine Dusty was wondering the same thing... How you're getting that kind of run time from just the one battery... Does your stereo run on magic beans? LOL

[trayson]

On the denominator, don't you have to divide your rated wattage by voltage? ........ 2400/12v or 2400/14.4v ... so that would leave 1000/200 @ 12v = 5 hours on the old system? New one being 3600/12 = 1000/300 = 3.333 hours?

Again ... I'm not sure if thats the magic formula or not

If you take the wattage output number (500 in the example) ... almost everyone will reflect less than 1 hour playtime.

amp = watt / volt

so in theory a 2400 watt system @ 12v = 200 amps. but we all know it's not going to pull the 200 amps continuously. what it if only pulled 1/4 of that on a continuous basis? so that'd be 50 amps.

My batteries are each rated for 105 AmpHours at a 20 amp draw. so with a higher than 20 amp draw, of course I'm not going to see 210 hours.

This would be a great time for the audio gurus to chime in and help us all understand how the RMS wattage of a system relates to the Amp Hour capacity of your batteries in real world boating applications...

[MLA]

Does your stereo run on magic beans?

Magic Kicker Beans :cool:

Even with the best of specs, run time is an estimated guess at best. You need to calculate the wattage based on how the amp chnls are loaded, rather than using the marketing numbers. Lets say you have a "1000W" amp, but only run each chnl at 4 ohm. In reality, you are likely seeing a fraction of that advertised number. Further, you cant really apply ohms law when one part of the equation is in AC and the other is in DC. As example, dividing 2400W output by battery DC.

The most accurate, and its still an estimate, is to determine the amps' DC current draw and use that with the battery bank Ah. to determine reserve.

[KG's Supra24]

The most accurate, and its still an estimate, is to determine the amps' DC current draw and use that with the battery bank Ah. to determine reserve.

I was curious about this ... as using the rated wattage to speakers doesn't factor in efficiency of the amp. 'Cause let's be honest, I've always known my WS amps are better than Dusty's exile were and certainly better than the PPI's :o :p :cool:

[trayson]

Magic Kicker Beans :cool:

Even with the best of specs, run time is an estimated guess at best. You need to calculate the wattage based on how the amp chnls are loaded, rather than using the marketing numbers. Lets say you have a "1000W" amp, but only run each chnl at 4 ohm. In reality, you are likely seeing a fraction of that advertised number. Further, you cant really apply ohms law when one part of the equation is in AC and the other is in DC. As example, dividing 2400W output by battery DC.

The most accurate, and its still an estimate, is to determine the amps' DC current draw and use that with the battery bank Ah. to determine reserve.

And how can we determine the DC current draw? Or even get some wild-ass-guestimation of it?


I was curious about this ... as using the rated wattage to speakers doesn't factor in efficiency of the amp. 'Cause let's be honest, I've always known my WS amps are better than Dusty's exile were and certainly better than the PPI's :o :p :cool:

LMAO!!! Touché!

[David Analog]

Finding the estimated current draw via any set calculation sure would be complex and inaccurate. The current draw is based on DC in but AC out. Music is very transient and so the draw is just a fraction of the of the DC to DC calculation. The amplifier efficiency comes into play, amplifier by amplifier and channel by channel. You have different amplifier classes (AB, H, D), efficiency changes at different impedance loads, efficiency changes at different power levels, and so on. Each system is different. Bad system set-up, bad system tuning, a bit of clipping, type of music, equalization, and many other factors can have a substantial impact on efficiency.
I recommend this. Upon your first typical long outing, starting the day with a fully charged battery bank, run the system at rest under normal conditions down to 12.0 volts. Now you're finished and you have your time.
Beyond that, the real experiences of others is as good of a reference as any.

[MLA]

Tray,

You can measure the current draw through the amp cables using an Amp-Clamp meter. Real easy if you have a trunk line that feeds all the amps. For a more conservative outcome, meaning the final number has you running out of battery sooner than reality, you can add up amp fusing and use that as your amp draw.

Again, the final number is an estimation at best. Too many variables to get an accurate number. Its best to use a conservative calculation and then over build the reserve, than to try and calculate down to the minute.

[viking]

I was curious about this ... as using the rated wattage to speakers doesn't factor in efficiency of the amp. 'Cause let's be honest, I've always known my WS amps are better than Dusty's exile were and certainly better than the PPI's :o :p :cool:

Hahahahahah - that is good stuff!!

[dusty2221]

With all of that said, can we agree that 6+ hours at full volume with that amount of speakers/amps all on a single battery does not sound like an accurate guess?

[BrettLee3232]

With all of that said, can we agree that 6+ hours at full volume with that amount of speakers/amps all on a single battery does not sound like an accurate guess?

Maybe I have a hidden battery somewhere....shhhhh I'm not telling lol

Or maybe it's a very conservative number?

When I was researching my install he highly recommended me getting one. He used them all the time & work great. He didn't even sell it to me, he told me where I could get it cheaper. I was amazed at the sheer size and weight of this battery. He said they have an upgraded model which is in the shape of a briefcase but he didn't think I needed something like that for my system.

7+hrs & I didn't even have to switch batteries to start.


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[beat taco]

Maybe I have a hidden battery somewhere....shhhhh I'm not telling lol

Or maybe it's a very conservative number?

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Drama Brett lmao

[Stazi]

Awesome stereo build. Crikey, that has to be seriously loud.


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[trayson]

With all of that said, can we agree that 6+ hours at full volume with that amount of speakers/amps all on a single battery does not sound like an accurate guess?

I'll agree with you. Well, as long as you play nice about my PPI amps and zip ties!

[FlatLander7]

I'll agree with you. Well, as long as you play nice about my PPI amps and zip ties!
Not the zip ties.. never...
Man has 3grand perched on the tower and wants to zip tie 'em...

Words can't even begin.. lol

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[trayson]

Not the zip ties.. never...
Man has 3grand perched on the tower and wants to zip tie 'em...

Words can't even begin.. lol

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I'll admit, it was a shortcut because I wanted to HEAR that tower goodness ASAP. I promise, it'll be remedied before next season. Good news is that zip ties come off as easy as they go on. :-)

[FlatLander7]

I'll admit, it was a shortcut because I wanted to HEAR that tower goodness ASAP. I promise, it'll be remedied before next season. Good news is that zip ties come off as easy as they go on. :-)
Pipe cleaner?


I kid... I kid.. lol
I know you'll keep us updated this off season trayson.

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[moombahighrider]

Awesome stereo build. Crikey, that has to be seriously loud.


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Stazi, are you Aussie? I don't know any one else besides Australians that say 'Crikey'..., besides maybe Brits.

If you are, it's good to know there are other Aussies on the forum.

[trayson]

Pipe cleaner?


I kid... I kid.. lol
I know you'll keep us updated this off season trayson.

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I was thinking of some twisty ties that I have been saving from the bread we buy at the store... Maybe use some of my wife's hair ties if those don't work. If all else fails, I'll go for chewing gum.

[ian ashton]

I have 750 watts on the cabin speakers, 1,500 watts on the tower, and 1,500 on my subs (all RMS)

I run 2 6v Exide GC135s (RC 226x 2 = 452)

If I play hard all zones it will take about 3-4 hours before the stereo bank starts to see 12.0v or less.

I'm adding 2 more GC135s, because why not?

[Stazi]

Stazi, are you Aussie? I don't know any one else besides Australians that say 'Crikey'..., besides maybe Brits.

If you are, it's good to know there are other Aussies on the forum.

Yes indeed I am. Originally from Perth, but now I'm in MI


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[moombahighrider]

Yes indeed I am. Originally from Perth, but now I'm in MI


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Nice. I'm from Sydney originally but in CO since 2000.

[Stazi]

I got one year on ya - 1999!


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[FlatLander7]

I was thinking of some twisty ties that I have been saving from the bread we buy at the store... Maybe use some of my wife's hair ties if those don't work. If all else fails, I'll go for chewing gum.
Damn right.. most things can be fixed with bubble gum duct tape and a couple rubber bands..

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[trayson]

I have 750 watts on the cabin speakers, 1,500 watts on the tower, and 1,500 on my subs (all RMS)

I run 2 6v Exide GC135s (RC 226x 2 = 452)

If I play hard all zones it will take about 3-4 hours before the stereo bank starts to see 12.0v or less.

I'm adding 2 more GC135s, because why not?

^^^^^That's more of what I'd expect on run time. I still want to figure out how Brett is getting 5 to 7+ hours off a 205 minute reserve capacity battery...


Also, isn't the reserve capacity only the RC of one of the 6v batteries, like this diagram would show:
http://i0.wp.com/rvdogventures.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Series.jpg?resize=300%2C178

Ian, the specs on the RC of the GC-135 are interesting. 135 minutes at a 75 amp draw and 480 minutes at a 25amp draw, with a "20-hour rate (AH)" of 226. I think I get what they're saying, but it's still a little confusing.

That said, they sound like amazing batteries. A pair of those would pack more capacity than my pair of Everstart Maxx Deep Cycle Marine 29DC's. Of course, they're also at least 50% more expensive, so for the same money, I think it'd come out fairly similar. That said, batteries can be confusing with inconsistent specs.

[dusty2221]

I run the Interstate GC2-XHD. Rated at 232ah each, retail was listed at $150ish each if I recall and the guy at the counter discounted them to $115 for me. I run 4 of them for the stereo bank, 464ah total for that bank. What you posted is correct Trayson, you cant sum the ah of the 6v like you would using 12v, but the abuse these deep cycle 6v can take is a great advantage it seems.