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View Full Version : Ballast Bag Port Glue - what will work



bergermaister
08-05-2014, 01:41 AM
This is the culprit that made for an amazingly tall and short surf wave as my bilge filled with water.

The port was a partial pullout from battling a glued in factory fitting that didn't give up easily.

Repaired once with 3m 4200 and failed after a couple days.

Repaired again with rubber cement and although it looked better, failed almost immediately. The grimy looking stuff is the leftover cement and it just peels right off with little resistance.

Is there any glue out there that can hold the port into the bag again??

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/9D94AE5C-F2E7-4F16-B36F-51958B12AFB7.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/1AD4FCFA-33DF-4119-936C-B8A46A386F1E.jpg

trayson
08-05-2014, 01:47 AM
Hey, why don't you call Fly high? Wakemakers has their number. I talked to the guy at Fly high and his customer service was AMAZING. Seriously, the guy there gave me his personal cell number and told me to call him on a saturday to troubleshoot a problem I was having with their check valves, so I could do it while on the boat.

I didn't have to do that, but he was amazing as far as his willingness to help. Why not talk to the manufacturer. I got the name and number of the guy to talk to at Fly High from Spencer at Wakemakers...

Seriously man, go to the source!!!

cornrickey
08-05-2014, 02:01 AM
I would have used 5200 fast cure

trayson
08-05-2014, 02:03 AM
I would have used 5200 fast cure

If you wanna try the 5200 fast cure, I still have some laying around here. Also, Home Depot sells the 5200 fast cure for $9 for the 3 oz tube. Best price anywhere.

jmvotto
08-05-2014, 09:30 AM
may want to try this

http://www.oatey.com/products/plastic-pipe-cements-and-primers/oatey-pvc-cements/pvc-flexible-clear-cement

trayson
08-05-2014, 10:55 AM
Fly High support phone #

http://www.fatsac.com/Support.bifh

phone:
414-964-3668

bergermaister
08-05-2014, 11:45 AM
Yeah, just talked to em. I'm frigged basically. He said anything I do is just going to be a bandaid and there aren't really any glues/epoxies that will hold long term, at least that they know of. They are assembled with some sort of heat treatment press that once it breaks free, that's it. Wakemakers said something similar.

Plan, uh C I guess is in the works now. Going to try going to a 1-1/8" port bulkhead repair fitting. Not much to lose at this point. :(

sivs1
08-05-2014, 11:59 AM
I have the same issue. I used RV Goop, a glue designed for outdoor use. It held for a little while then started leaking again. I just added more and basically covered the fitting with it. Am only hoping to make it through the rest of the season.

trayson
08-05-2014, 11:59 AM
What about something on this page?
http://www.bigskyfishing.com/whitewater-products/whitewater-raft-accessories.php

Our bags are pretty much the same material that they make river rafts out of. I have to believe that they can repair a river raft, so I don't see why they couldn't repair a bag. Maybe patch the hole you have now and add a new port?

slipperyrockTKE300
08-05-2014, 12:11 PM
sorry. misread what was being glued in.

please feel free to delete this post.

jzelt
08-05-2014, 12:34 PM
Same "boat". I used silicon sealant and filled once. (this is our spare bag) and we don't fill it totally full, and the valve like that I made the top so it doesn't have as much weight on it all the time.

bergermaister
08-05-2014, 12:40 PM
What about something on this page?
http://www.bigskyfishing.com/whitewater-products/whitewater-raft-accessories.php

Our bags are pretty much the same material that they make river rafts out of. I have to believe that they can repair a river raft, so I don't see why they couldn't repair a bag. Maybe patch the hole you have now and add a new port?

Actually was just looking at that. That may be Plan D. Just having a hard time stomaching carving up a $330 bag...

jstenger
08-05-2014, 12:43 PM
You could use this one.

https://www.flow-rite.com/products/marine/1-18-fittings/ma-041-qlb

I have had good luck adding ports.

kaneboats
08-05-2014, 12:46 PM
That works well but don't let a line get twisted or it will pull out. I have to put mine back with some 5200.

bergermaister
08-05-2014, 01:10 PM
You could use this one.

https://www.flow-rite.com/products/marine/1-18-fittings/ma-041-qlb

I have had good luck adding ports.

I ordered one of those in a 90 degree since the port is in a tight spot but also with the quick disconnect end so I can still remove and get the bag out easily. Hoping that along with a good adhesive will do the trick. I read about using an abrasive wheel to rough up the bag surface and give the glue a better bite to bond.

Going to keep trying until something works!

jmvotto
08-05-2014, 08:39 PM
Berg, try one of these, with that glue, straight or 90 should certainly be worth a try. I added a vent to my two port center bag a few years back and it worked well.

https://www.flow-rite.com/products/marine/1-18-fittings/ma-041-qlb

Oops did not read far enough.

ranger098
08-08-2014, 11:17 AM
I would be shocked if 3m 5200 wouldnt work. That stuff is so strong its stupid. Im about to use some of that on the threads of my 750 high flys cus they keep popping out when full.

bergermaister
08-08-2014, 11:36 AM
Problem is the port itself that is heat seated to the bag actually ripped. So I doubt any amount of gluing I would do would hold too long.

Just ripped the whole thing out last night and put in a 90* flow rite 1-1/8" bulkhead style fitting (looks like a thru hull). Then swapped the fitting on the hose to a straight flow rite 1-1/8" quick connect so I can still get the bag out easy. Gooped it with 5200 and cranked it all down tight. It "looks good" but who knows if it will hold.

(gouged it up a bit with a channel lock - only thing I had that was big enough for that nut!)

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/63C06D40-647E-4227-BCCE-8CEFCF661E41.jpg

I read that the 5200 takes 7 days to fully cure (urgh) but this repair is only going to be about 36 hours old before it gets put to the test. Crossing fingers....

trayson
08-08-2014, 11:49 AM
I told you that I had some extra 5200 fast cure and that home depot sells the 5200 fast cure for $9.

*shaking my head*

bergermaister
08-08-2014, 12:01 PM
Gotta do whatcha gotta do when you're on the run and working late.

*raising middle finger and smiling*

trayson
08-08-2014, 12:20 PM
Gotta do whatcha gotta do when you're on the run and working late.

*raising middle finger and smiling*

You'll be raising that middle finger when your shiz ain't cured when you need it!!!!!!!!

But hey, I know I guy with a surf dialed DD supra that might be willing to give you a pull if your bag bursts again...

*flipoff*

*wink*

bergermaister
09-05-2014, 06:47 PM
Just a quick followup to this - the new port / repair has been solid, not leaked a drop. So if you have any bags that you think are done due to a ripped port, think again! Flow rite is your friend. https://www.flow-rite.com/marine/products

Peel out the old port. 5200 glue in and tighten down one of the next size up, the 1-1/8" (or straight if you prefer).

https://www.flow-rite.com/sites/all/files/styles/large/public/field/image/MA-044-QLB.jpg

Swap your line fitting to one of these. Done!

https://www.flow-rite.com/sites/all/files/styles/large/public/field/image/MA-040.jpg

$6 fix -plus shipping- compared to a new bag.

beachfarmer
06-15-2015, 10:34 AM
Bergermaister...I'm curious if your ballast bag fix is still holding after a year. I discovered over the weekend that my fatsac separated at the weld just like yours. Also, based on the pictures, I have the same original fittings that you have. When you swapped out the male flow-rite adapter did you have to swap out the female or does the original female adapter work? Also, how did you pull out the threaded welded part out of the fatsac without ripping the vinyl? Did you use heat?...thanks in advance for any info you can provide...John

bergermaister
06-15-2015, 11:11 AM
Yes, still holding strong. I swapped out both the male and female for 1-1/8" fittings. The 1" hose will still fit over them with a little heat and finesse.

On the bag my port/fitting was torn about 1/2 way around so I just continued tearing it and finished it off very carefully with a box knife. There was a bit of a flat flange leftover from the port on the inside the bag that I just left in place. If I recall I may have made a tiny slit in order to slip the new larger port into place in the bag. Spun the nut down some to hold it there. Aligned it to point the right direction. Gooped with 5200, tightened up the nut and let it cure.

This is on my fill port on top so I believe there is less pressure on it than if it were a drain port.

"All's good under the hood" proof pic from 10 min ago.

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/DC84FA5E-7C73-4CC0-AA59-A7D57AD71F07.jpg

jzelt
06-16-2015, 08:25 AM
As I thought, my silicon solution was a temporary fix. It held for the few times we used it last summer, it was dripping pretty steady a few weekends ago, so I just peeled it off and applied "Shoe Goo". (Worked good on my fishing boots where they got a slash right in the crease). It appears to stay flexible while staying bonded. (few miles put on since repaired). Haven't used the bag yet. (Raining like monsoons).

beachfarmer
06-16-2015, 02:23 PM
Thanks Bergermaister...I appreciate your input. I assume with the 1-1/8" fitting you have 1 inch diameter hoses...could you verify? I have 3/4" hoses and could use the same 3/4" fittings but I assume the flange may be smaller...but may give it a try anyway. Thanks in advance...J

jzelt
07-07-2015, 04:44 PM
Used Shoe Goo (got large tube from Walmart) shoe section. It has held up well and no leaks. I packed it up under the black fitting, then spread a good bead feathering it out 1/2" or so from the edge.

bergermaister
07-07-2015, 07:15 PM
The
Thanks Bergermaister...I appreciate your input. I assume with the 1-1/8" fitting you have 1 inch diameter hoses...could you verify? I have 3/4" hoses and could use the same 3/4" fittings but I assume the flange may be smaller...but may give it a try anyway. Thanks in advance...J

Sorry for the huge delay but yes, all 1" lines.

However I've been told if you are running the premium spiral ballast line you could heat it up enough to stretch a 3/4" line over a 1-1/8" fitting. So say the experts.

On my center drain pump over the holiday I discovered that my 1" line stretched over a 1-1/8" fitting has sprung a leak after 5 years of service. Nice way to clean out the bilge and test the float switch.... (Yes, it works quite well!)

MLA
07-07-2015, 07:23 PM
Nope, ive tried for a non-ballast reason. No way to get .75 to stretch that much and have meat left to clamp. Just get the proper .75 fitting or upgrade the hose.

kaneboats
07-07-2015, 10:51 PM
I did one of those to put a vent line in my 750 bag. Worked for about 3 years and started leaking when the bag was packed way too full last week with two 1200 pumps filling it. I removed it and reinstalled it. Used 5200 again. We'll see if I get another 3 seasons out of it.