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Cigars n scotch
06-23-2014, 10:01 PM
How To: Replace your trailer seal on your axle

After experiencing this dilemma back in April of this year and seeing that there are a couple of others out there (and more that potentially will experience this very same problem in the future), it was pointed out that I should write up a sticky and provide the steps. These steps will help you change a leaking seal and I am providing the pictures I took that will help those who are visual learners like myself.

I meant to do this back in May but life got in the way. Credit to ninedriver for having the issue and re-inspiring me and to kaneboats to helping to add the sticky! Ok enough of that, letís get to it!

Other thread I had started about replacing my seal: https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?23982-Boatmate-trailer-Seal-replacement

Alternative Part#: National Part #470460, OD (outer diameter of seal is 2.56Ē) This seal was $9.99 from Advanced Auto, hereís there link: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/national-oil-seal-470460/3269302-P?vehicleIdFromReq=-1&isAllVehicle=true&vehicleIdSearch=-1&searchTerm=470460&showTitle=


The Trailer Buddy manual says if you are replacing a seal without Hypalon then apply a thin film of Permatex High-Temp RTV silicon gasket maker on the seal outside diameter and hub bore prior to installation (I did not but I hadnít read my manual either and in hindsight should have). Iíve had no problems though. The seals from the factory have Hypalon coating on the outside diameter.

First off, here is a diagram of the hub and spindle assemblies:
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4315_zpse27e261c.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4315_zpse27e261c.jpg.html)

Now onto the steps:
1. Remove your wheel
2. Now you need to remove your calipers. You have to remove the caliper ďclipĒ first as shown here with the red arrows (I donít know the official name of this thing so bear with me).
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4059_zpscd03c6b7.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4059_zpscd03c6b7.jpg.html)

3. Take a screwdriver and just pull out the clip in both holes remembering how it is set in place:
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4060_zpse4f08e29.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4060_zpse4f08e29.jpg.html)
4. On the back of the caliper are two black caps that you'll need to remove that reveal hex bolts. You will need a #7 metric hex wrench to remove these hex bolts. (circled in RED, one cap has already been removed). Also next to these hex bolts are two other bolts you'll need a wrench to remove (I don't recall what size the wrench socket was, maybe 1/2"; circled in GREEN)
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4061_zps4e79e248.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4061_zps4e79e248.jpg.html)

Cont'd because of the darn picture max limit

Cigars n scotch
06-23-2014, 10:02 PM
Once all of those bolts are removed you can now pull the caliper off. These next three pictures just so the sequence.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4065_zpsc3208d62.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4065_zpsc3208d62.jpg.html)
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4066_zps63eb22c5.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4066_zps63eb22c5.jpg.html)
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4067_zps902f950a.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4067_zps902f950a.jpg.html)
6. Now you are ready to remove your Vault bearing buddy! Take a dead blow hammer and just give it a few taps in each direction (sides and top and bottom) until you can pull it off by hand.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4067_zps902f950a.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4067_zps902f950a.jpg.html)

Cigars n scotch
06-23-2014, 10:03 PM
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4069_zps900639d7.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4069_zps900639d7.jpg.html)
7. Here's what it looks like with the bearing buddy off
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4073_zps1244c0ea.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4073_zps1244c0ea.jpg.html)
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4072_zps98634f6f.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4072_zps98634f6f.jpg.html)
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4071_zps59ce5dad.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4071_zps59ce5dad.jpg.html)

Cigars n scotch
06-23-2014, 10:20 PM
8. Pull Cotter pin off
9. Pull Nut Retainer off
10. Unscrew Spindle Nut
11. Pull of Spindle Washer.
12. Remove outer bearing
13. Pull off hub
14. Remove the seal. Choose your way, I didn't have any fancy tool to I just used a screwdriver to remove it. You will damage the seal removing it, there's no way around it but that's why your replacing it!! Just obviously be careful about slippage on the screwdriver. I just used leverage and tapped it around the sides until I got a gap, tapped the screwdriver in some more and popped it out.
15. Remove the inner bearing
16. Put all parts in a bucket of gasoline (this is what I did on the recommendation of my father who said it would clean all that messy grease off and it worked like a charm!) If you have other "cleaners" ideas then go for what you know will work. Let these soak in the gas and then use a bunch of rags to fully clean off the old grease until the parts are clean.

Nothing but the spindle:
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4079_zpsdb99c001.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4079_zpsdb99c001.jpg.html)

Here's an image of all the parts after removal:
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4056_zps257d522d.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4056_zps257d522d.jpg.html)

Here's all of the parts after soaking in gasoline and cleaning them all off with a rag really good! (they are lined up in order from the back of the spindle moving out towards the bearing buddy)
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t39/newmanium/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4080_zps93cb7a75.jpg (http://s156.photobucket.com/user/newmanium/media/Trailer%20Axle%20Seal%20Replacement/IMG_4080_zps93cb7a75.jpg.html)

Once you've gotten all of this done and have your replacement seal and bearing lube (I just used some stuff from the auto parts store but you can use the Vault lube which is recommended I just didn't have the time to wait for delivery) you're ready to put it all back together! Remember there is a front bearing and a back bearing so remember which is which when putting it all back. Regrease everything, pack it in there and put some in the bearing buddy! Put the new seal in and put it all back together the same way you took it apart.

Have lots of gloves handy as this is a MESSY job! Also have something to catch the excess grease that will drip out when pulling everything apart. Have lots of rags on hand too! And BEER, don't forget the BEER!

I did this job in a couple of hours without having any prior knowledge of what I was doing so it can be done by the non-mechanical like myself! My father just walked me through how to remove the seal and a reminder on the front and back bearings over the phone.

Good luck! I believe (hope) that I have not missed anything but if I did than anyone feel free to chime in for missing info. This should complete it though. Oh and remember the O-ring as David (rdlangston) had mentioned in ninedrivers other thread.

Man how-to's are a lot of work! Hope this helps!

Cigars n scotch
06-23-2014, 10:35 PM
And lastly here is the manual link for the Trailer Buddy Axles by UFP: http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/Trailer%20Buddy%20Axle%20Maintenance.pdf

kaneboats
06-24-2014, 12:50 AM
Nice job on this. I'm sure it will help lots of folks. I've got a nice scotch waiting for you when you get here. Heh heh heh.

rdlangston13
06-24-2014, 10:20 AM
Note if you just take off the two bolts circled in with the green box you can take the whole caliper off without having to worry about the spring or the bolts circled in red


Sent from my iPhone

Cigars n scotch
06-24-2014, 10:36 AM
Note if you just take off the two bolts circled in with the green box you can take the whole caliper off without having to worry about the spring or the bolts circled in red


Sent from my iPhone

Ha! Good to know for future reference David!! Thank you

dusty2221
06-24-2014, 12:14 PM
Came here to add that piece of advise, good work David. Mine is taken apart as we speak, having to replace a hub and new brake pads tonight.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

mnpracing
06-24-2014, 12:49 PM
And lastly here is the manual link for the Trailer Buddy Axles by UFP: http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/Trailer%20Buddy%20Axle%20Maintenance.pdf

Here's the link for the Vault bearing system http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/Trailer%20Buddy%20VAULT%20Axle%20Maintenance.pdf

bergermaister
06-24-2014, 01:09 PM
One other tip if you are not familiar with doing brake jobs and this is your first- use a big C-clamp to compress the piston down on/into the caliper before reloading your new, thicker pads. It will open it up enough that it will go over the rotor much easier than fighting it on.

http://image.superstreetonline.com/f/techarticles/9285918+w799+h499+cr1+ar0/130_0704_07_z%2Bbrake_pad_installation_guide%2Bcom press_brake_pistons_with_c_clamp.jpg

ninedriver
06-24-2014, 09:55 PM
Awesome write up, congrats on the sticky, and thanks for mention!

A couple follow up questions:

When reapplying the grease, how much do you put in? In addition to packing the bearings, do you fill the void around the spindle between the bearings and fill the vault cap? Can you put in too much grease?

Also, how tight should you make the spindle nut when putting everything back together?

Thanks again and great job!

Cigars n scotch
06-24-2014, 10:36 PM
Awesome write up, congrats on the sticky, and thanks for mention!

A couple follow up questions:

When reapplying the grease, how much do you put in? In addition to packing the bearings, do you fill the void around the spindle between the bearings and fill the vault cap? Can you put in too much grease?

Also, how tight should you make the spindle nut when putting everything back together?

Thanks again and great job!

Just pack it in there good. Fill it all. I didn't tighten the spindle nut much, just snug, as that is what it was when I removed it and I believe is the way it should be. I almost used a tube repacking all 4 hubs.

rdlangston13
07-01-2014, 12:45 PM
Just pack it in there good. Fill it all. I didn't tighten the spindle nut much, just snug, as that is what it was when I removed it and I believe is the way it should be. I almost used a tube repacking all 4 hubs.
When tightening the spindle nut I install a tire to make it easier to turn. I spin the wheel and crack the nut tight with channel lock pliers and the back it off half a turn. I repeat this 3 or 4 times and then I tighten
It down, then back it off about a quarter to one third turn. You don't want it all the way tight because then there is no room for heat expansion. Also just pack everything with as much grease as possible. I always fill the hub before I slide it on the spindle to ensure there is grease all in there and then fill that vault cap up about 3/4 full


Sent from my iPhone

jzelt
07-01-2014, 01:59 PM
I agree, I tighten the nut with channel locks till it is pretty tight, back it off a ways, then hand tighten to where the cotter pin will go thru.