View Full Version : Pros and cons of Stainless steal props??

03-28-2006, 12:28 AM
I just bought my 02 Mobius LSV a few months ago. It came with a 4 blade stainless steal prop. Is this a stock prop and what are the pros and cons for stainless and other props? Thanks .
VF750C (http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Honda_VF750C)

03-28-2006, 08:21 AM
Good - Stainless does not bend on minor debris contact.

Bad - it does not bend on major debris contact either, so something in the motor may have to give instead. Stainless is more likely to hit a log and drive in like a knife, jamming the prop and ripping the motor up.

If I had stainless I would not fear it but I am not in the market for one either. Aluminum is really soft so I have a stainless on my I/O.

Stock is fine on the Moomba IMHO.


Oh, spray the platform pads with Aero 303 before you do the R&R. I think you are tracking around the oxidation. See if it works, I have no trouble and think that is why.

03-28-2006, 10:37 AM
Originally posted by smokedog2
Oh, spray the platform pads with Aero 303 before you do the R&R. I think you are tracking around the oxidation. See if it works, I have no trouble and think that is why.

Hadn't thought of it on the ski platform pad.
Thats a decent idea. As soon as the rain stops this week and the sun peeks his head out again I'll treat mine as well. Thanks.

05-03-2006, 09:52 AM
For inboards the there is little performance variance in SS vs Brass/nickel. Brass Props take 45,000 PSI to bend. The SS take 105,000 PSI to bend. Keep in mind your Strut is Brass so if you hit something hard enough to bend the strut but not the SS prop, your prop could spin into your gel coat near rudder. Its better in my opinion to have a $300 prop repair than a summer ending hole repair in the boat. I suppose the odds of something this bad happening are low but Im sticking with the brass. Good Luck and have fun.

05-03-2006, 10:53 AM
I quess I am one the very few who would never place a brass prop on my LS or any boat for that matter. I have a 4 blade SS and in almost 320 hrs have seen my buddies replace and rebuild no less than "7" acme props and replace completely 2. I have 2 incredibly small little dinks that I did my 1st season ,they have names on them. The shaft is still good and checked every season . I have 2 brass props sitting collecting dust
I think the preformance is superior to a brass prop for hole shot and less speed variation.
If you are wondering my buddies are not bad drivers as we live on a shallow river that any misstep even a few inches can ruin your day. We have 3 BU's,1 Cent T5,and my LS
and board and ski any chance we get. We did a trial run on 1 BU and swapped out the brass 3 blade acme and reinstalled his 4 blade SS that he had in his garage when he bought it and was afraid to use and the results were supriseing. As to be expected
he lost a little top end and created a little more wash on his table only the pure fanatic would notice. But the hole shot with his wedge and fat sac's was better as well as the boats abilty to maintain a consistent speed. My LS has always been able to maintain
great speed control. hope this helps.

05-03-2006, 11:38 AM
I just purchased a new prop for my boat. I run 2500 lbs ballast and a group of us go=more weight - so I went with an Acme 16 pitch brass prop. I run the boat in a river that has plenty of debris and occasional log floating around. Most of it is avoidable, but I did hit a log (at a slow speed) which damaged the stock brass prop. I imagine if the prop had been steel - I would be forced to replace more than just the prop. It was bent and a small chunk missing. If you are considering a new prop - look at your ballast weight and also really consider the pitch.

If you run the boat in a lake where your chance of encountering low spots or debri in the water is small....the steel would be great. If you might hit something heavy that could cause damage - stick with brass - like yellowmoomba0 said - better to repair or replace a prop than have to repair a tranny or shaft... or worse

2cents worth anyways