Marine or not marine??

[Sampp1963]

Good morning all...

Ok, as you might know, I will get my new Mondo this spring and I'm already thinking about stereo update.
I will probably start by adding a sub and amp. I was thinking to connect the 4 speakers (no speaker in the bow) and the sub to a 5 channels amp.

Now, since the sub and amp will be installed under the helm and in the storage area, do I really need to install marine equipment? They are much more expensive.

Thanks again for all the great tips you guys are giving me....

[David Analog]

Good morning all...

Ok, as you might know, I will get my new Mondo this spring and I'm already thinking about stereo update.
I will probably start by adding a sub and amp. I was thinking to connect the 4 speakers (no speaker in the bow) and the sub to a 5 channels amp.

Now, since the sub and amp will be installed under the helm and in the storage area, do I really need to install marine equipment? They are much more expensive.

Thanks again for all the great tips you guys are giving me....


First, with a JL Audio XD amplifier, there is not a great premium on the marine versions.

If you are in a coastal or brackish area, I highly recommend a conformal coated marine amplifier. Salt air is highly corrosive.
If you are running a fan-cooled amplifier then I highly recommend a conformal coated marine amplifier. A fan-cooled amplifier has the inside of the chassis exposed to a constant flow of damp air flowing over a raw and electrically charged circuit board.
Beyond the above stipulations, most fresh water towboaters use standard automotive amplifiers without issue. Whether using an auto or marine amplifier, there is still plenty to look out for in your amplifier panel layout and design that could protect you from possible water damage. You want to be prepared for the unexpected roller over the bow. Usage will play a role also, such as keeping a dry bilge and where/how you store the boat.

[MLA]

Kicker's KXM800.5 Class-D marine amp is only a little more then its automotive counterpart, then KX800.5. Even a marine electronics can go up in smoke due to direct water intrusion, so where its installed is key.

Subs - You'll find many "automotive" subs that have a composite cone and rubber surround. With the sub located under the helm, direct sunlight is minimal, so a high level of UV inhibitors is not has crucial as it is with a tower or in-boat speaker. If using a ported enclosure, then look for a sub with an aluminum or composite basket over a stamped/painted steel.

So, is marine a must....no, but it can offer some advantages from one install to the next.

[David Analog]

Kicker's KXM800.5 Class-D marine amp is only a little more then its automotive counterpart, then KX800.5. Even a marine electronics can go up in smoke due to direct water intrusion, so where its installed is key.

Subs - You'll find many "automotive" subs that have a composite cone and rubber surround. With the sub located under the helm, direct sunlight is minimal, so a high level of UV inhibitors is not has crucial as it is with a tower or in-boat speaker. If using a ported enclosure, then look for a sub with an aluminum or composite basket over a stamped/painted steel.

So, is marine a must....no, but it can offer some advantages from one install to the next.

Mike, I totally agree that a sub used in a boat should have a poly cone versus paper which absorbs moisture, particularly in a ported enclosure. A rubber versus foam surround is very important in coastal versus inland areas and if the sub gets much direct exposure to UV versus concealed. The silicon-coated tinsel leads, synthetic spiders, etc. are all essential elements in salt water use.
I have seen many automotive coaxial speakers that rusted in the coaming, even leaving stains down the vinyl uphostery. But I haven't seen rust on a powdercoated stamped steel woofer basket when mounted in an enclosure when the enclosure integrety was still good and it wasn't water-logged. However, I have seen it in an expanded and bloated MDF automotive box that stayed perpetually damp. What has your experience been with this?

[Sampp1963]

Well thanks all..... Hard to decide. I know that I will take extra care on my installation to make sure that no water can get to my equipments....
No salty condition, I'm on the best lake in Quebec.
My intention is to keep my boat for a while. So maybe I should put a little more money and go for the best...

[gregski]

I know that I will take extra care on my installation to make sure that no water can get to my equipments....

The concern is not that it would get wet directly, it's that it's exposed to high humidity. It's especially bad if you can get condensing humidity. Do you store your boat in the garage, or under a cover?

[Sampp1963]

The concern is not that it would get wet directly, it's that it's exposed to high humidity. It's especially bad if you can get condensing humidity. Do you store your boat in the garage, or under a cover?

Boat in the water all summer long...cockpit and bow cover to protect from rain...

[motosno963]

i went polk, part because its marine cert. i also got a good deal on 2 10s and an amp to push them

[gregski]

Boat in the water all summer long...cockpit and bow cover to protect from rain...
So, very high humidity. I would recommend marine stuff but weigh it against the cost. If the cost it much more expensive it may mean that you could tolerate some premature failures and replacements.

[MLA]

I have seen many automotive coaxial speakers that rusted in the coaming, even leaving stains down the vinyl uphostery. But I haven't seen rust on a powdercoated stamped steel woofer basket when mounted in an enclosure when the enclosure integrety was still good and it wasn't water-logged. However, I have seen it in an expanded and bloated MDF automotive box that stayed perpetually damp. What has your experience been with this?

Being 4 hours inland, we dont have to deal with the effects of salt corrosion often, thank goodness. I have come across a couple of price-point subs that were showing some rust, but in both of those, the boxes were beginning to or had failed. It probably comes down to the quality of the component to start with and the execution of the install. I think a higher end sub is going to have a better quality powder coat as opposed to a cheaper acrylic paint job on an entry level sub. But, even showing some signs of rust, it would take many seasons beyond that to result in a failure of the basket.

[Sampp1963]

So, very high humidity. I would recommend marine stuff but weigh it against the cost. If the cost it much more expensive it may mean that you could tolerate some premature failures and replacements.

You're right.....if I get a very good deal on a none marine, it can be wort it....but with all the comment I get, I should go marine.