Stereo upgrade

[saskyrider]

Ok... so my new mondo comes with the kicker amp but no tower speakers... which is what I wanted anyways... need me some exile!! What are your thots on the following

1. Use kicker amp to power a sub
2. Buy 2 tower speakers SXT9Q'S
3. Buy amp to power the 4 in cabin speakers and the 2 towers. 800.4?

Can I run the towers off of 2 channels of the 800.4 and run the in cabins in series which would provide way more juice than the deck is giving them now..??

Cheers

Geoff

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[saskyrider]

Or I could get the Javelin I stead of the 800.4 which wpuld run the in cabins and sub then go with a harpoon + 2 sxt9q's package.... then I could get 2 more towers down the road

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[MLA]

Rather then 20th century class-A/B amps, I would consider the more efficient Class-D

Will you be keeping the stock sub? Once the speakers are chosen, the amp options fall in line. A nice efficient Class-D 4 chnl can power 2 pair of in-boats and a moderate 10" sub, but no room to add a 3rd pair of in-boats. For 3 pair and a sub, a 5 or 6 chnl is a great option. Quite a few proven efficient Class-D 5 and 6 chnl amps out there.

For tower speakers, I would suggest a dedicated amp. Being high on a tower as wells what we expect out of them, they will need way more wattage then the in-boats. Sharing 1 half of a 4 chnl with the in-boats rarely offer this needed power. For tower speakers, a 2 chnl is a great way to go as it will allow for a 2nd pair later. But, a 4 chnl run in 2 chnl mode can be a budget friendly way to power a single pair of tower speakers.

[saskyrider]

My boat didnt come with a sub.. so ill need get one

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[Brianinpdx]

Sask -

Nothing wrong with the way your talking about doing it, but let me give you a few things to think about down the road.

The 800.4 that your speaking about is discontinued and I'm fairly certain we sold off the last of that model. It's been replaced by the XM15.4 model. If you do go with the SXT9 pair, you could run it in stereo mode and deliver 150x4 CEA rated power. You'd run ch 1-2 on the tower and then you'd have ch 3-4 to power either cabins or a sub. If you summed 3+4 to the sub, you'd have 300 watts.

The other option is to run the Javelin in the cabin / sub. This would give you 120x4 CEA for the cabin and 800W for the sub. As a side note: you could opt to keep the factory cabin amp in play and dedicate the javelin to the TOWER and SUB by bridging ch 1+2 and 3+4.

The point of this is to let you know - You have options. The Javelin will be most flexible but cost more. Hit me up in a PM if you need in-depth info. Happy to help.

-Brian

[David Analog]

saskyrider,
Before you make an amplifier selection, how many sets of pre-amps do you have on your HU, and do you plan on getting an EQ right away?

[saskyrider]

I plan on getting a ZLD right away im not sure on pre amps on HU I dont take delivery of boat until april.

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[David Analog]

I plan on getting a ZLD right away im not sure on pre amps on HU I dont take delivery of boat until april.

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Good. If you are using an EQ then you are in good shape. There are definite conflicts with the above system if you only had a source unit with dual pre outs.

[saskyrider]

Ya I had the ZLD in my last boat and really liked it... I actually did away with the HU all together. Bluetooth my phone to the ZLD using a bluetooth puck plugged into a set of pre outs on the back of the ZLD.. very convenient

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[sandm]

someone (david :) ) told me years ago when designing my first system that if you are not going to run 3 amps, to keep the towers independent of the sub from an amp standpoint. the theory was that you want to balance out the "power hungry" sides of the system to different amps. it made sense to me. I have always ran 3 amps so it was kind of a moot point other than it pushed me into that setup for the first boat and I followed to the second.

my .02...

[David Analog]

someone (david :) ) told me years ago when designing my first system that if you are not going to run 3 amps, to keep the towers independent of the sub from an amp standpoint. the theory was that you want to balance out the "power hungry" sides of the system to different amps. it made sense to me. I have always ran 3 amps so it was kind of a moot point other than it pushed me into that setup for the first boat and I followed to the second.

my .02...

And that is according to circumstance, but for the most part, it still holds true. In a typical system the subwoofer and tower speakers get driven the hardest and you want to do your best to distribute the load for better thermal performance. The power supply of an amplifier is usually the limiting factor when it comes to power, particularly when all channels are driven simultaniously. So you don't want to place an inordinant load or unbalanced load on one component. And part of it is that if I have a multi-channel amplifier sharing a single power supply, I don't like to run the lowest allowable impedance across the board. The set-up of the Supra OEM Kenwood Excelon systems made every configuration mistake possible and shut down often, although it wasn't bad equipment, just bad execution, and it was correctable.

[sivs1]

I know this is a month late from the last post, but here is what I am running and it sounds great. 6 in boat 6.5 inch speakers running off the head unit. A dedicated 2 chnl amp for the 12 inch sub and a dedicated 4 chnl amp for the 4 tower speakers. Sounds great, even in the bow.

[saskyrider]

I was impressed with the in cabins running off the head unit but thats in a service bay with the engine off... I will focus on the tower and sub first and go from there... time is going to be the main factor for me... my work is getting super busy

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