Additions to an existing Ballast System

[AZ_Calling]

I have added a new ballast to the ski locker of my '03 Mobius. I have plumbed for the new ballast and just need to hookup the electical, but I am an idioit when it comes to wires. If anyone could help me out on these details I would appreciate it. Here is the way I have plumbed the system:

1) I used the existing Pump from the rear ballast for the front ballast as well
2) I have added an electric valve to control water to the new ballast
3) Added a new pump (rule 700gph) to pump the water out the boat (I 'T' into the bilge line to pump out the water.
4) intalled a new rocker switch for the new ballast (not wired yet)

Thanks in advance.

[Jon]

Maybe I can help you. I think I'm following you correctly. You will need to splice into your positive fill pump wire and run it to your rocker switch (neg wire should already be grounded). You wll also need to run your electric valve pos. wire to the same place on the rocker switch, then ground the neg. You will need to run the pos. wire from your empty pump to a different place on the rocker switch (pump out prong) and then ground your neg. wire.

From there, you will just need to wire up your rocker switch for power. If its the same as the existing rocker switches, you can just look at the ones there and see how they relay the power from switch to switch (should be in series). You will also be able to look at your existing rockers and see where you need to connect each pos. wire on the back.

Maybe that helps some.

[santa]

I've done the exact same projet last year, plus added a third bag inside the other ski locker. I wanted to do this right, so I used three independent switches to fill/empty each of the bags. I use one single pump to fill all of the bags, and three others to empty.

First, a word about the plumbing:
You can't "T" your "empty" hose into the bilge line. Unless you want to sink your boat!!! DISCONNECT THIS RIGHT AWAY, or water will flow back from the emptying bag into the bilge!!!!!!!! And don't connect it to another bag's empty line, as you will fill the other bag whenver you empty this one. Have a separate hole drilled into your hull and connect the empty line separately. I know it hurts, but you gotta do this!

Now the electrical:
You need to get DPDT 3-way rocker switch. You can get this from your boat dealer that look exactly like the factory ones you already have on your boat. It must absolutely be a DPDT (Dual Polarity Dual T... I can't remember!!), otherwise you will end up filling all of your bags simultaneously. A DPDT swith is one that's configured as if you had two independant 3-way rocker switches side by side activated at the same time.

The reason you want a "dual switch" is so that when you put it up to "fill" position, you activate 1) the fill pump and 2) the soleniod valve of the respective bag only.

The Black wires are the easy ones. Run a black wire directly from the "Black" hub under the dash to each of the solenoid and the empty pump.

Next the red wires. Start at the "Red" hub and run a line to the middle prongs of the DPDT switch. Run a fuse in that line for safety. You can get a fuse enclosure from car parts stores for a few dollars. Then run red wires from the switch as follows:

-Top Prong 1 to fill pump red
-Top prong 2 to solenoid switch red
-Bottom prong 1 to empty pump red

I got all my wires and connectors from a car parts store. Do this right and use crimping connectors everywhere. Add electric tape over everything at the end when all works well.

Good luck.

[AZ_Calling]

Thanks Santa!

A few questions.

1) Do you know how many "poles" the rocker switch has that you used? I called the dealer and they said SC used different rocker switches for different boats and I need to know how many poles my existing switch uses.

2) Did you have problems running the wires? Did you remove the floor? Any tricks or insight would be helpful.

3) Did you say you added another bag to the rear ski locker? How much weight do you have back there? Any problems?

4)I thought most people where "T-ing" into the bilge line and/or another existing exit hole to get the water out of the ballast. This article on Wake World explains how to "T" into the bilge line. It is necessary to use a check value (Flow one-way).
http://www.wakeworld.com/Articles/2001/BallastSystem2.asp


Thanks

[santa]

Here are your answers: Good luck!

1) Do you know how many "poles" the rocker switch has that you used? I called the dealer and they said SC used different rocker switches for different boats and I need to know how many poles my existing switch uses.

SIX in total. Three rows of two. Be sure it it DPDT and that all left side poles are not hard-wired in any way to the right side poles. Mine had a built-in light, which resulted in connecting the left and right poles, hence screwing up the required independent circuts. I had to pry the darn switches open and remove the metal parts that connected the left and right sides.


2) Did you have problems running the wires? Did you remove the floor? Any tricks or insight would be helpful.

No problem. No need to remove the carpeting nor drill holes. Remove the engine cover PLUS the center floor piece which has the hole for the bilge pump access, plus the center floor piece behind the engine. Each of those pices should have 4 screws (I think), that's all.


3) Did you say you added another bag to the rear ski locker? How much weight do you have back there? Any problems?

Yes I did. About 450 lb. My boat dealer provided it and it fits perfectly. If I were to do it again, I wouldn't bother adding that rear bag - we barely ever need to use it, and if we fill it to capacity, there's too much weight in the back, resutling in a washy wake. Therefore, I now need to add more front ballast to offset. Like I said, the Mob will do just fine with the front bag plus rear tank. For bigger wake than that, just make more friends.

Anyhow, if you do decide to do it, make sure you re-inforce the locker's floor. I added a 2*8 (I think) that is supported on either side by small dents in the fiberglass PLUS I inserted 2 PVC pipes through the gas tank holes that run from the bottome of the hull to the floor of the ski locker. This part was the biggest pain since I had to dismantle the ski locker parts and it was a real rubik's cube making it all fit together after the wood piece was inserted (hint - you cannot insert the wood plank by the top of the locker. You need to go through where the back seat is). When my boat dealer saw that setup, he said I was a genius, but quite frankly, I think he meant that I was too anal about that.

4)I thought most people where "T-ing" into the bilge line and/or another existing exit hole to get the water out of the ballast. This article on Wake World explains how to "T" into the bilge line. It is necessary to use a check value (Flow one-way).
http://www.wakeworld.com/Articles/2001/BallastSystem2.asp

Yes, I know, but in the end it's simpler to drill that hole, especially for later maintenance. I drilled the hole Myself, and it didn't even hurt!

By the way, I am neither a mechanic, nor an engineer, nor a plumber or an electrician. In fact, I'm just a humble pencil-pusher in my daytime life. I just really studied the question thoroughly before doing anything to my beloved boat and it paid off.

My boat is in winter storage for now. If you want pics, it'll have to wait till spring.

Good luck!