2005 Mobius LSV vs. Outback V

[reeder]

Hi all, I'm new to the forum. This question has probably surfaced somewhere on here before so forgive me if it's an old one.

I've set my sights on purchasing a used Outback V as I think it will be the best fit for my family's needs and if I understand it correctly, the Outback V started production in 2006.

I'm wondering if the 2005 (and earlier) Mobius LSV is pretty much the exact same boat as a 2006 Outback V (Hull design, Length, Freeboard, Ballast system, etc...). So essentially the characteristics of the wake and handling of the boat would be very similar if not the same?

Any help would be greatly appreciated by someone who knows first hand.

Cheers!

[sandm]

welcome and you'll get a lot of responses..

first off, where ya from and what are your end goals for the boat as far as activity?
supra launch20ssv is very similar to the outback v as well so another one to put on the shopping list imo.

[Stazi]

I think the Mobius LSV is slightly larger than the Outback V in that year. I'd get the Mobius.

[lewisb13]

I had an 05 lsv. It is the same hull as the 06 and up Outback. So the 05lsv is a 20.5 foot boat and in 06 it moved up to a 21.5 foot boat I believe. The only thing you need to look at on the 05 is where the tower mounts to the boat. Make sure there are no stress cracks. They went to the two-spot mount in 06 versus the 3 spot mount in 05. If there are no cracks I say go for the lsv becuase it will inherently be cheaper than an 06.

[reeder]

Good to know about the stress cracks where the tower mounts.

I guess I should explain what we'll be using it for and why I'm looking at the Outback V, rather than an 06' and up Mobius LSV. The boat will be used for 40% skiing, 40% wakeboarding, 20% kneeboarding, no real hardcore wakeboarding and want something that has a wake that's decent to ski behind (for a vdrive). Also will try surfing but I understand that it will never be a great surf boat like the 06' and up LSV's.

[sandm]

search 20ssv as well. buddy is a dedicated slalom skier and said it had the flattest ski wake of the vdrives he has skied behind. not like his boomerang, but decent..

[mnpracing]

I had an 05 lsv. It is the same hull as the 06 and up Outback. So the 05lsv is a 20.5 foot boat and in 06 it moved up to a 21.5 foot boat I believe. The only thing you need to look at on the 05 is where the tower mounts to the boat. Make sure there are no stress cracks. They went to the two-spot mount in 06 versus the 3 spot mount in 05. If there are no cracks I say go for the lsv becuase it will inherently be cheaper than an 06.

Not quite. The 05 Mobius LSV is the same as the 06 OBV. There was an 06 Outback LSV which was 20'8". Go to www.moomba.com/archives and you can compare the various years.

[maxpower220]

You could even consider an Outback LS. It's a direct drive, not V drive. It may fit the needs of your family as well. Just a thought

[jmvotto]

Not quite. The 05 Mobius LSV is the same as the 06 OBV. There was an 06 Outback LSV which was 20'8". Go to www.moomba.com/archives (http://www.moomba.com/archives) and you can compare the various years.


What he said, yes they are the same..

[reeder]

Thanks for all the info, much appreciated. I didn't realize there was an archive section, it pretty much says it all. So it's safe to say that I would get the same wake with an 06' Outback V as I would with a 2002-2005 Mobius LSV or a 2005 Outback LSV? (assuming they both have the same ballast set-up, wake plate, etc...). I think I've got this figured out now.

As far as looking for a Supra Launch 20SSV, there doesn't seem to be too many around here way up north, not sure why.

[reeder]

So finally found an 08 Outback V and bought it and we're pumped to try it out, we're officially part of the Moomba family. I think it'll be a good fit for what we want to do but we'll find out for sure this summer. I have a ton of questions, mostly simple things about driving a vdrive boat. I come from a river boating background and am used to bouncing off rocks and sandbars and we just drive those aluminum hulls right up onto the beach weather it's sand, rocks or whatever and doesn't hurt them.

About how much water does a person need to be in while idling, to safely not hit the prop or fins on the bottom?

Also curious as to weather it's the norm to drive the boat on and off the trailer? or manully push it on and off? The clearance from the bottom of the prop to the prop guard on the trailer looks really tight. Sorry for the goofy/newbie questions, just don't want to wreck her the first time out because of lack of knowledge.

I'll post pics as soon as I can figure out how to do it.

[wolfeman131]

looks like you figured the pics out.

CONGRATS on the new boat!

I don't like getting into water that is less than 3ft. Wife freaks out when the depth gauge drops below double digits. I would drive a bit differently with this boat. Avoid the rocks as a new prop will run you $500.

Depends on the launch area, but most times I drive on/off the trailer. I put the trailer in until the fenders are 1 in under the water so it's mostly floating the boat on, but I will power it up when loading to get it tight against the front roller and require minimal cranking. One trick when loading is to dip the trailer all the way in without the boat to get the forward bunks wet.

Reverse when launching. Back in until fenders are about 1 in under the water, and if you've remembered to remove the transom straps, the back end will be floating so then, if you remember to unhook the bow strap, you can just idel off the trailer.

In either case, don't be afraid to use the guide poles! Don't hit them at full ramming speed, but they are there to help align the boat on the trailer and the trailer is designed so that the boat self-aligns. After a few sweaty armpit attempts at this, you'll find its easy.

Keep asking the questions!

[moombadaze]

very nice looking Outback V. Going to be a good summer

launching and loading-just like Drew says above

sandy bottom-2.5 to 3 ft
rockybottom--at least 4 ft

[maxpower220]

Congrats on the new boat, it looks great.

You probably won't want to "bounce off of rocks and sandbars" with this boat. It will damage and it will be expensive to repair. Some of us don't have the luxury of double digit depths. I will IDLE at 2.5 on the depth gauge. In known areas, I will ski in 3.5 feet of water. I am most happy in at least 5 feet. The official draft of most inboards is around 22-24"

If you have a sandy beach, many people will run their boat up onto the beach. Some think this is a terrible idea. It's your boat and your risk. Repeated beaching will act like sandpaper on the keel of the hull.

Your boat and trailer are designed to be drive on, drive off. If I have my wife to back the truck, I will float off. If I am doing everything, I drive off. Depending on ramp angle, fender wells just under the water is a good place to start for launch and recovery. Mostly, it should be idle power at the ramp to launch and recovery. This will limit any errosion issues at the ramp.

[sandm]

good looking boat. looks like it's pretty well optioned up..

enjoy learning to drive and don't forget the lack of steering in reverse :)

[NCSUmoomba]

That is a nice looking boat. I think you will be very happy with it. Most of the other guys have hit it right on.

Published draft of your boat is 24" but remember, that is from the waterline. The prop won't hit until the depth finder is closer to 16", but they usually start flashing about 1.5'. The depth finder puck is mounted on the bottom of the boat, so readings may be different than actual water depth. I think there is the option to calibrate the depth finder to the waterline, but don't if anyone has ever done it. It gives you an 8" or so buffer.

My wife it like Wolfe's, if it gets to single digits, she starts to panic, but it's nothing to worry about. The only issue I have heard of is that to maintain a good wakeboard wake, the water needs to be at least 15 feet deep. Not sure if it is true, but...

[mmandley]

Congratz man,

Launching we use this trick and it works well, back the boat in till the rear just starts to float, I will unlatch the boaw strap at this point and hop in. Claudia will be in the truck, I start the boat and make sure i got good oil pressure, and charge voltage. I give her a wave and she will back down the ramp about 1-2ft and SLAM on the truck brake, this transfers the energy to the boat and shoots me straight off the trailer and i dont have to worry about Powering it off in reverse.

To trailer it i have her back down till the entire front bunks goes under the water, this makes them a little more slick. Then pull out till the front of the fenders are just under the water level.

I drive the boat on, normally approach is just barely in gear i will bump it in and out to keep it slow. As the boat nose passes the rear bump guards i put it in neutral, let it self center on the trailer, then light apply power just to get the boat to the strap. She connect the bow strap and starts cranking it in, i apply just a little power to help her, at any point you have to apply a lot of power i have her back the truck a little farther down.

On the Outback i don't know how the rear hull sits on the bunks but on my LSV and the Mojo it has cuts in the hull and these only allow you 1-2 inches left to right or the boat wont sit right on the trailer, it just takes practice.

[reeder]

Thanks for everyone's responses, these will all help me out in a huge way. My next step is trying to figure out how to set up and position my shorestation boat lift. I've read a few other older threads on here regarding this that will be helpful. The water level at the end of my dock where the lift will be located is 3.5 feet so I think it should work fine with a few adjustments to the bunks and just making sure the fins will clear and the prop shaft doesn't rest on the rear support of the boat lift when lifted up.

[reeder]

Well I finally got a chance to get it out on the water. Unloaded boat off trailer, idled around for warm up, take off and notice a massive vibration that just get's worse the faster I go. It makes so much vibration noise I can't even hear the engine. Back on the trailer she goes. Say a few choice swear words. Take it to the dealer and it turns out to be a dinged up prop not the shaft thankfully. It has an Acme 1235 (14.5x14.25) on it and I'm wondering if I should replace it with the same prop or go with something different. Is this the stock prop or is this an aftermarket prop for better holeshot and grunt? I'm wondering if I should be going with a stock prop as we will be doing mostly wakeboarding, kneeboarding and slalom sking. We will try surfing too though and see how that goes. Any thoughts/suggestions from Outback V owners or anyone in general?

Cheers,

[csm]

Once you figure out the ballast, I think you'll be surprised how good of a surf wave these boats can throw. I have an '05 LSV, and once you get it dialed in, you can get a big, clean wave. It's not a surf-specific boat, and probably not as good of a surf boat as the bigger, newer LSV/Mojos, but we mainly surf, and I have no complaints.

[reeder]

That's good to know csm, I'm trying to figure out if it's essential to run such a beast of a prop like this to be able to surf or if a smaller prop would do just as well. With this prop, there's only about 1/4" to 1/2" clearance on the bottom of the trailer guard. Not sure what the top speed with this 1235 prop is as I didn't even chance running it wide open with that huge vibration. I don't want to lose too much top end as we will be slaloming as well. What prop are you running?

[kaneboats]

I think Erik is selling the prop you are looking for. Check the classifieds.

[reeder]

Well good thing..... the boat is like night and day with the new prop on it, no vibration at all now. I put an acme 537 on it because it's the only one I could get overnight so we could use the boat on the weekend, (sorry Erik, I'm too far away from you). I'll get the 1235 repaired and use it as a spare. Couldn't surf and let go of the rope with it but I'm pretty sure I just haven't figured out how to weight it properly. It has the stock Gravity III ballast system so I'm pretty sure I should be upgrading maybe to a 750 in the rear port side at least and try that. Is there one brand better than the other as far as just dropping it in and hooking up to my stock connections? I keep hearing about Fly High, is that the one to go with?

Cheers,

[kaneboats]

Look at the wakemakers site or just give them a call.

[reeder]

17918

Thought I'd post a pic of the surf wave to get some feed back. Starboard and center ballast bags full, me in the driver's seat, the wife and son sitting behind me, wakeplate 3/4 up. it looks pretty good to me but maybe it could be better?

[wolfeman131]

it can always get better! just depends on what you want to spend. :)

that wave looks pretty good for an 08 OBV. you could add a brick to throw around and IBS if you're not too worried about dunking the nose.

[kaneboats]

I think he just invented "head surfing".

[reeder]

I just wanted to go back to the "loading the boat at the launch" part. Our ramp is really steep and when the trailer is backed in far enough to get the nose anywhere close to the front of the trailer, the fender wells are about 2-3 ft. under water. I'm just wondering if that's ok and that the vertical guide poles on the back of the trailer will ensure that the boat will come down on the trailer while driving out without hitting the prop on any metal part of the trailer. I've got the boat on a boat lift all summer so I've only loaded it once.

[Kidder522]

Hey Reeder,

What lake are you at? We head out to Sylvan, and will be out on the weekend. With it being a deep launch, just pull out slowly and the boat will self correct onto the trailer without any worry of the prop. The boat itself will settle in between the wheel fenders and sit where it should. Also, just make sure you have approx. the same amount of distance between the boat and the guide poles.

[reeder]

Thanks Kidder, we're at Sturgeon, northern Alberta.
That makes sense, that's how I ended up doing it that one time, with the wife pulling the truck and trailer out slowly and I was in the boat, hanging onto one of the vertical guide poles trying to keep it somewhat centered so that when the trailer came up to meet the bottom of the boat, that it was kind of centered. It worked but seemed like a real pain in ther arse. If I was certain that it would just align itself while pulling the truck out, I could relax a little but it looks to me like it would land right on top of the fender, maybe I'm wrong? I've been known to be wrong before a few times. Ha Ha.

[Wax]

Just make sure all your rear ballast is full, lol!

[moombadaze]

, the fender wells are about 2-3 ft. under water.

trailer is way to deep. back the trailer in till the bunks are wet and then pull out till the tops of the fenders are just at waters level, the boat should just about self center itself when driving onto the trailer.



its very hard for the prop to hit the prop guard due to the boat guides and the bunks.

[Wax]

+1, I stop my trailer right when the entire fender just goes under the water. I've done this with every watercraft I've ever had, seems like it's a pretty good general rule of thumb.

Sent from my piece of crap Galaxy SII that Sprint won't replace...

[reeder]

Thanks for everyone's advice. I had a buddy back the trailer in this time instead of the wife, tops of fenders about one inch below the water and it worked perfect. Just had to winch it up about a foot. Lovin' this boat but done for the year now unfortunately.