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lewisb13
04-17-2013, 09:03 AM
So we are in full swing with the boating season, and I had some time yesterday to try to get some more break-in hours on the boat. I was going to try to calibrate the ballast timers, but ran into some issues. Lets talk about one of the rear locker bags for just a second. Initially I believe the timers are setup at 4:30 or whatever. So I fill the bag up all the way until the system believes the bag to be 100% full and it automatically shuts off by itself. Then I go look at the bag and its only maybe 60% full, which I was totally expecting. So I go into the menu and turn up the timer to like 7:00 (or whatever). As soon as you turn the timer up the boat now correctly thinks that the bag is only 60%, as shown on the display. So I hit "fill" again untill the boat thinks the bag is full and shuts off the pump automatically. Perfect. Sac is full and display verifies this. Then I go to empty the bag and the boat runs the pump until the display says 0% full, well I go look at the bag and its got maybe 40-50% left in it. Now youre kind of screwed because you cant turn the pumps back on anymore due to the timer thinking the sac is empty. So I go turn the timer up like 13:00 or whatever and now the boat correctly believes the bag still has 40% left in it. So I get the bag mostly empty, but Im sure you can see my problem here, I dont want the timer set on 13:00 because it would just be dumping water out of the bag when I went to go fill again. So I have a couple questions...

1. How would YOU empty the bag? I ended up just letting it drain into the bottom of the boat at letting the bilge pump it out. I didnt have my tsunami pump on the boat at the time but that would have been an option I suppose.

2. I noticed on the calibration menu there being 3 different options for calibrating the pumps. Obvioulsy you can use the menu item where it just allows you to chage the timers, but there are two other calibration menus. One was called "lake calibration" and the other one was called "factory calibration." Of course there isnt any information in the owner's manual on these, but I spent about 5 minutes trying to screw with them while I was stuck on the lake with full ballast and it was absolutely squalling/raining at this point we just had to get off the water. Anyone know anything about these menus?

The second part of this that I thought was interesting was calibrating the center hard tank. I initially filled this one on whatever the factory setting was. You cant see the tank so you are kind of relying on waiting for water to come out of the overflow. So when I initially went to fill up the center tank, it gets to 100% or whatever on the display and obviously its not full yet because its not pouring out the side. So I turn the timer up to like 7:00. Well the display gets up to about 88% full and I see the water pouring out. I turn off the pump and drop the timer back down to where the display thinks the bag is 100% full. Wrong. I "empty" the center hard tank until it says 0%. I get back to the house and later find out that with the key OFF you can run the pumps for like 30 seconds at a time. I must have turned the center drain pump on like 5 times. Theres no telling how much water was in that tank but it was a lot.

One thing I really dont like about this boat is that when you are emptying the ballast, it spits the water out the bottom of the boat into the lake. Gone are the days where you can physically see the water coming out of a thru-hull. This really bugs me because now I dont trust the system and theres no way to see how much level is actually in the hard tank. I kind of miss the ski locker and bag that was in my 05 because you could verify. Sorry this was so long, maybe the posts on this thread will help someone else out too. Im taking the boat out again friday, so Id like to have some kind of gameplan to figure out whats going on. I really appreciate the responses in advance.

kaneboats
04-17-2013, 10:11 AM
The guys on here will help with this. This system is far superior to the old one. Once you get her dialed in you will trust it and it will make your life more relaxing.

Jon
04-17-2013, 10:44 AM
For the 2013 ballast system on the LSV and Mojo, your timers should be set at 6 minutes for the rear bags (650 lbs each) and 4.5 minutes on your front hard tank. It is recommended that your engine be running when filling and emptying your ballast system. The current draw from the pumps are extremely high so with the engine running it allows the pumps to work at their full potential. With the correct timer settings the pumps should empty most of the water from the bags and tank. I always try to "finish off" the ballast by emptying with the boat in a "bow up" position. This allows the water to drain back to the empty/fill port on the bag and tank. Make sure your ballast hoses do not have any kinks in them also.

For the calibrations. These do not need to be experimented with. Dealers are instructed on these two calibration screens. If a new calibration is performed incorrectly, it can definitely throw of the operation of your ballast system.

One other thing, over time you may need to adjust your timers to a larger value. The impellers and pump and wear down over time causing the fill and empty times to be longer.

lewisb13
04-17-2013, 10:56 AM
Thanks for the post! Yeah definitely engine was running and were doing about 8mph to keep the bow up. No kinks that I could find but I'll look again. And 4.5 and 6 get them about 70% full, so close but not 100%

kaneboats
04-17-2013, 11:09 AM
Thought occurred to me. Is it possible he has damaged impellers from running dry? Never know who was pulling switches while the boat sat around.

mmandley
04-17-2013, 12:48 PM
LewisB this is a similar issue we had because they added the 1100 bags and didn't adjust the timers.

I think your main problem is doing the adjustments while you have water in the bags, tank.

Its best to make the adjustments when the boat says 0%.
you have to remember the timer system is strictly a ON time of the switch, it cant calculate for bad impellers, or air in the system.

I'm not sure if filling while in motion is a good idea for the system. Since its a bottom Feed, if your moving then you would be injecting more turbulence and air in the pickups. The pump will be primed as soon as you drop the boat in the water, unlike the older aerator pumps.

I can agree with you on bottom drain vs the side. What we do is at the end of the day just drain the boat while we put gear away in the water, turn the stereo down real low, you can hear those pumps when they run dry, they make a lot of gargling noises.

I will then run them for a couple seconds on the trailer to make sure its all empty.

Just a couple things i learned so fare.

As for the 100% and 0% if you need to fill at 100% or drain to get the bag to a true 0% you have to keep toggling the switch on and off. We have already had to do this while we get our timers set

ian ashton
04-17-2013, 01:35 PM
I hate those timers - that was a contributing factor for me to order without ballast - that, and that I never used it in my last boat.

mmandley
04-17-2013, 01:56 PM
I hate those timers - that was a contributing factor for me to order without ballast - that, and that I never used it in my last boat.

Ive already asked the dealer can i delete them from my set up LOL. Only problem is they seem to think its tied into the dash display and i don't want to mess with my display

wolfeman131
04-17-2013, 02:14 PM
As far as I know, every manufacturer that has bags or tanks (i.e. don't flood a cavity in the hull) uses some sort of timer device whether or not if it's reversible or aerator pumps or a simple & readout or a fancy touchscreen. Chadjitsu on here is the using a flowmeter, which in theory should be better, but I don't know that any wakeboats are doing that OEM.

In regards to the 2012 & 2013 systems, there are a few additional items to note. You should set your timers to how long it takes to typically drain the bag, not fill it. I found that the pumps fill faster than they drain. I believe it just has to do with the design of the reversible pump and impeller design. Mine have always filled faster than they drain. This means the bag will vent a little every time you fill it and spill over the side (which I like - don't have to open the hatch to see if it's full), but it also means it will more than likely get closer to draining completely every time.


Also, in 2012, SC used used a ¾ inch vent and a 1 inch fill line. As you fill your bags to/over capacity, you're pushing more volume in the bag than can be pushed out. I'd suggest that folks swap out to all 1 in lines - fill & vent.

E4NASH
04-17-2013, 02:56 PM
Also, in 2012, SC used used a ¾ inch vent and a 1 inch fill line. As you fill your bags to/over capacity, you're pushing more volume in the bag than can be pushed out. I'd suggest that folks swap out to all 1 in lines - fill & vent.

Funny, you didn't suggest this at all during the numerous conversations we had regarding my ballast project...sup wit dat?!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jpetty3023
04-17-2013, 06:36 PM
Wolfey just likes spending your money


sent from my ipad2 via a wireless network which usually sucks

wolfeman131
04-17-2013, 11:09 PM
Funny, you didn't suggest this at all during the numerous conversations we had regarding my ballast project...sup wit dat?!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Since you were whining like a little girl 2 weekends in a row about how hard it was to put in what you did, I didn't want to suggest more work which, ultimately, would have led to me having to listen to more whining.

jmvotto
04-17-2013, 11:27 PM
Also, in 2012, SC used used a ¾ inch vent and a 1 inch fill line. As you fill your bags to/over capacity, you're pushing more volume in the bag than can be pushed out. I'd suggest that folks swap out to all 1 in lines - fill & vent.


Is this why my 1100 pops the hatch on the 2012 xlv? I have one way valves on my 3/4 vent lines.

rdlangston13
04-18-2013, 01:18 AM
Since you were whining like a little girl 2 weekends in a row about how hard it was to put in what you did, I didn't want to suggest more work which, ultimately, would have led to me having to listen to more whining.

and it shouldnt make that much of a difference, just means your flow velocity in the 3/4 inch hose will be greater than that in the 1" inch hose. , may pressurize the bags some but that should not be bad since people stack them and sit on them while full

moombadaze
04-18-2013, 07:42 AM
i set my timers to run 1 minute for every 100lbs with a xtra 30 seconds to make sure i get a little water venting and lets the pump run a little xtra when emptying. so far so good, no issues.

now the one time I forgot to hook the bag up is another story, was very hard to get it back to 0% when there was nothing to drain and the system said i was 60% full.

kaneboats
04-18-2013, 10:03 AM
Since you were whining like a little girl 2 weekends in a row about how hard it was to put in what you did, I didn't want to suggest more work which, ultimately, would have led to me having to listen to more whining.

Can't argue with that logic.