Mojo Surf Ballast Setup

[wolfeman131]

As mentioned in many posts this year, our family REALLY enjoyed surfing behind our 2012 Mojo this season! With help from Moombadaze and Spencer from Wakemakers and stealing ideas from lasvboombox, by the end of the season we got the ballast system figured out. I believe that this setup will work for the 2013 Mojo as well as the 2013 LSV.

My objectives for the system were as follows:



1) Provide a "better than good" regular surf wave.

2) Entirely hidden.

3) No additional pumps, drilling into the hull, etc.

4) Controlled from the driver's seat.

5) Reasonable fill time.



Using a tsunami pump & throwing bags around the boat for the first half of the season, we found the best wave was achieved by weighting the boat as follows:



1) 1,100 lb sac full in port locker

2) 370 lb "tube" sac full under port seats

3) 1,100 lb sac about 40% full in starboard locker

4) 450 lb stock, center hard tank full

5) 650 lb bow sac full



Yep, that's just over 3,000 lbs of ballast. The 345hp Indmar surf motor has no problem getting the Mojo up on plane.

Here is an overview of the system I set up. The blue are fill lines, and the red are vent lines.

The port (or left "L") pump fills/empties the port 1,100 and 370 tube sac. The fill line is simply "T'd" and the line for the 370 runs under the 1,100. The 370 is vented back into the top port on the 1,100 and the 1,100 is vented thru a check valve out the side of the boat. If I do not want to use the 370, I filled a connection with epoxy and can easily cap the fill ine off.

The starboard (or right "R") pump fills/empties the starboard 1,100 sac. No mods done to the factory fill and simply added a check vavle to the vent line.

The center ("C") pump fills/empties the center hard tank and the IBS. At the point the factory tank vent lines runs out from under the floor in the bow storage, I installed the Bosworth directional Y valve. If I choose not to run the IBS, I can vent the center tank out the side. If I want to run the IBS, I rotate the valve and the center tank vents into the IBS. The IBS vent line is "Y'd" back into the factory vent line with a check valve installed.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/MojoBallast.jpg

[wolfeman131]

It starts here, the box o' goodies from Wakemakers

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-06-24_11-27-38_163_zps44506c2e.jpg

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-06-24_11-28-09_182_zpse35978d1.jpg

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-06-24_11-53-43_917_zps438f9d06.jpg

Bags laid out on the dock: left to right - 650 bow sac, 370 tube sac, 1,100 rear locker bag, 1,100 rear locker bag

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-35-49_617_zps32551a4c.jpg

[wolfeman131]

First install step was the port locker plumbing. After some experimentation of using the port pump for the 1,100 and the starboard pump for the 370 tube, I realized that the boat really needs some weight in the off side to get a great wave. I also realized that by designing the system where the center vent would fill the IBS, that my fill time was going to be dictated by that total 1,100 lbs so running the 1,100 locker bag and 370 tube together wasn't going to cost me too much additional time.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-30-29_532_zps9dd2c105.jpg

pic from inside port locker towards bow and fill line hooked up to 370 tube sac

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-33-21_380_zps18d79e81.jpg

1,100 in port locker full

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-16-04_174_zps5b3a6999.jpg

370 under port seats full

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-16-15_159_zpsb86e3819.jpg

[moombadaze]

whats with all the empty coolie cups.

[wolfeman131]

Plug I made by filling a fitting with epoxy.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-34-24_649_zps2deaca1c.jpg

Plug installed at the end of the 370 fill line. I thought this was a simple solution vs another valve. We keep it in the glovebox for when/if it's needed.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-34-02_346_zpsc8dbb771.jpg

Note the boo-boo on my thumb above! That was the result of NOT being patient and waiting for the hair dryer to heat up the tubing well and instead trying to push, twist and muscle crank it on. Take your time and let the tubing heat up, then have some towels or light gloves on to work the tubing over the fittings.

Starboard side was next and was easiest as all I did was install a check valve on the vent line.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-30-17_223_zpsf265b8df.jpg

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-15-56_223_zpse87864f2.jpg

[wolfeman131]

Finish it up with the IBS. I cut the factory center hard tank vent line just as it comes out of the floor in the starboard bow storage area. It's tight in there and the Mojo storage compartments are deep. So, another word of caution, have somebody around to pull you're fat arse outta there. I was on my back installing the check valve & vent line and popped right into that hole. I had to wiggle and squiggle to get turned back around to get out of there. You may also want to start with the bow so you're not too many beers into the job.

I pre-measured all my lines and installed the IBS fill and the vent lines to the valve before attaching the valve to the center vent line. From the left is the vent line if you're only using the center tank and no IBS, from the middle is the fill to the IBS and from the right is the incoming center tank vent/fill line.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-18-39_340_zps083682bf.jpg

everything hooked up.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-18-31_686_zps814aa997.jpg

The vent off the top of the IBS is tricky. Since the center hard tank vent is a 1 in line, you need to order a 1 inch Y connector (it's listed as 1 1/8 in on Wakemakers) and a 1 in check valve. I missed that it was 1 in the first time and ordered all 3/4 in parts. Sorry for the bad pic below, but you can see the larger check valve leading to the thru hull vent. That is the only connection I put a hose clamp on. I thought "just in case" it would be easier to get to remove that versus a crimped connection.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-19-40_591_zps322f06f5.jpg

pic of the IBS installed, but not filled. It had been filled as you can see from the missing cupholders. I ordered the bow cushion which means these are normally covered anyway, so no worries.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-18-02_865_zps29c0020c.jpg

[wolfeman131]

Finished, filled and leaning.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-15-24_563_zps8e11f9e1.jpg

[jpetty3023]

time and money spent on his project sir


sent from my home phone

[E4NASH]

time and money spent on his project sir


sent from my home phone

Yeah, this is my plan this offseason too. I like your use of the Directional Y Valve vs. the Distribution manifold I was thinking about using...much cheaper and I can hide it in more places. I'm planning on running an IBS and 1100's in the rear. I already have the 370's under each side seat. Gonna need a new prop though for sure!!

[wolfeman131]

E - let me know when you plan to do this and I will bring the crimp tool home for you to use. I really like the factory look versus the hose clamps and you avoid the sharp edges.

[E4NASH]

Oh don't worry, you WILL be present at the time of installation!

I am thinking about adding an additional pump though for the IBS. Not sure yet...We'll discuss later and decide what way I should go. I have both regular and goofy riders on my boat so I have to fill both sides.

[wolfeman131]

I wouldn't bother with the additional pump. I was set to put one in, but that light bulb went off above my head about the timing. For you, you're going to fill at least an 1,110 (probably plus a 370) off of a single pump. So, that's you baseline, if you will. What do you gain by adding a 4th pump to fill a 650 IBS? Nothing, IMO, except complexity & cost.

If it were me, I'd run the port side off one pump (1,470 lbs), the starboard off another (1,470 lbs) and your IBS (650 lbs) and center (not sure what you have, but I know it's not 820 lbs which is the delta between 1,470 & 650) off the 3rd pump.

Does that make sense? You don't gain any time filling the IBS off a dedicated pump. Your center & IBS will be full while you're still sitting around waiting on the 1,100/370 combo for whatever side you want to surf.

Now, you can get all fancy and set up Y valves to run 2 pumps into a side or to run from one side back to the other - which might be cool for you, but in the end, Moombadaze gave me the best advice before we started my project:

KEEP IT SIMPLE.

[rca]

How well does the IBS drain in this setup? Looks like it might leave quite a bit of water in the port side of the bag the way you have it seutp.

[wolfeman131]

Nope, not a drop. With the check valve installed, it drains completely flat.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[parrothd]

How long does it take to fill the 1100 and the tube sac?

I have some darn goofy foot riders so I'm wondering how long it takes to switch.. :)

[lsvboombox]

I wouldn't bother with the additional pump. I was set to put one in, but that light bulb went off above my head about the timing. For you, you're going to fill at least an 1,110 (probably plus a 370) off of a single pump. So, that's you baseline, if you will. What do you gain by adding a 4th pump to fill a 650 IBS? Nothing, IMO, except complexity & cost.

If it were me, I'd run the post side off one pump (1,470 lbs), the starboard off another (1,470 lbs) and your IBS (650 lbs) and center (not sure what you have, but I know it's not 820 lbs which is the delta between 1,470 & 650) off the 3rd pump.

Does that make sense? You don't gain any time filling the IBS off a dedicated pump. Your center & IBS will be full while you're still sitting around waiting on the 1,100/370 combo for whatever side you want to surf.

Now, you can get all fancy and set up Y valves to run 2 pumps into a side or to run from one side back to the other - which might be cool for you, but in the end, Moombadaze gave me the best advice before we started my project:

KEEP IT SIMPLE.

This was my thinking as well. No need to run an extra reversible pump to service an ibs. Unless you are going to y valve it and let it share duties on another bag. I have three pumps and only surf regular so i put a y valave on the goofy pump and have 2 pumps filling the 1100 pounder. I also have a couple of other bags i use a over the side pump to fill.

[sandm]

if I was riding with several goofy and had to switch back and forth, I would install the transfer pump setup that wakemakers installed in ragboy's boat. you are now filling one side, draining one side and also transferring water from side to side. you can now also use that same setup to effectively double your drain times when done as you drain one, transfer to the other side and drain that side as well. I like wolfe's "keep it simple" mantra from daze, but this really makes sense and only adds a single pump, some fittings, no thru-hulls and a single switch to change directions.

I can't attest to it's speed, but have heard they are switching sides with 1100's in under 5 minutes.

glad we're all regular :)

[wolfeman131]

I think my timer for the 1,100/370 combo is set at 12 1/2 min, but I prefer to have the water spill out the vent to know the bags are full vs the gauge on the dash. You can hear the difference in the pumps and/or air bubbles hitting the hull to know when to shut them off.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[wolfeman131]

I have heard the X-link from wakemakers cuts the time in half to switch. But, it still takes the same time to fill the first time. At $290, you need to really value that 5 min. I'd rather spend that cash on beer and use that 5 min to enjoy a cold one.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[parrothd]

I have heard the X-link from wakemakers cuts the time in half to switch. But, it still takes the same time to fill the first time. At $290, you need to really value that 5 min. I'd rather spend that cash on beer and use that 5 min to enjoy a cold one.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

We do this with the tsunami pumps and work well, could probably plumb/reuse my tsunami pumps when I install my new setup with reversible...

[sandm]

it shouldn't take more time the first time out as you are filling both left and right and transferring the water to whichever side you are starting on. that should be 2 pumps filling at the same time and one transferring to the side you surf on..

I don't disagree with you on the beer/time thing :) but if you are riding with a group of both regular and goofy, I would think that cash would be well spent being able to switch over quicker. heck, I bet you have 15x that cost in ballast and exile upgrades. now it's just 16x :p

[moombadaze]

boy do those crimp fittings make the system look so much nicer.

[jmvotto]

boy do those crimp fittings make the system look so much nicer.

pictures please.....

[wolfeman131]

You can see them in all my pics. The little silver bands around the black tubes.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[rca]

Are those Oetiker crimp rings? A little hard to discern from the pics.

[wolfeman131]

Ron,

You stumped me on that one. I ordered the rings and crimping tool from wakemakers.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[kaneboats]

Looks great and great writeup. Got me thinking about some things.

[bergermaister]

Very nice writeup and pics - very clean and of course love the blue bags in the blue boat. Wish I would have used those crimpers now too.




1,100 in port locker full

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-16-04_174_zps5b3a6999.jpg


The space you have in there even with the 1100 full blows me away... When experimenting did you ever stack any more sacs in there to max it out and see what effect it had on the wave?

[lsvboombox]

Are those Oetiker crimp rings? A little hard to discern from the pics.

Yes thy are. Wakemakers sells them just as cheap as most others unless your buying a butt load

[wolfeman131]

The space you have in there even with the 1100 full blows me away... When experimenting did you ever stack any more sacs in there to max it out and see what effect it had on the wave?

There isn't a ton of room left on top to stack anything significant, IMO. I've thought about strapping one of the stock bags to the port seats or on top of the sun pad and the other under the bow cushion, but don't really like the thought of having to mess with the dang handheld tsunami.

[mnpracing]

Yes thy are. Wakemakers sells them just as cheap as most others unless your buying a butt load

I get them from Menards for $3.49 for 25 clamps

[bergermaister]

Oh I'm not a big fan of bags all over and using the handheld pump (if possible). Was more fantasizing of how big of a custom sac you could fit back there to max out space available and the size of wave.

Just curious if you had done any testing before the install.

[moombadaze]

I've thought about strapping one of the stock bags to the port seats or on top of the sun pad and the other under the bow cushion.

Next summer lets do it. Lets go big tho-xtra 1100 on sunpad, 650 top of seat and a 650 on the bow seats.

[wolfeman131]

Yep, did lots of testing and I only posted my FINAL install. I had a much different install originally with the port pump filling the 1,100 & 370, the center pump filling the center hard tank and the port pump filling the IBS. I didn't like the wave without any weight in the starboard side and seemed to get too much cavitation, so was throwing the tsunami over the side.

I also tried a setup with the port pump filling the 1,110 and the vent line off it spill into the 370 to fill it. This seemed to work fine for filling, but I couldn't get teh 370 to drain completely. That lead me to the current setup with the shortest, straightest run I could get from the pump to the 370. I haven't noticed any issues with having the fill hose for the 370 running under the 1,100.

I was going to put the directional Y in the locker or under the rear bench and run the IBS & starboard off the starboard pump, but the more I thought about it, the more I liked being in control from the driver's seat vs having to hop up and flip the valve(s).

In regards to a custom sac, Spencer and I went thru it and just weren't sure we could get much more weight back in there to justify the cost. I did buy a brick sac and am going to look at tying that into the port side leg of the IBS and have the brick located behind the observer's seat. I've also considered adding lead, but just not sure I want to put extra strain on the lift and I have no interest in loading/unloading lead all the time.

[bergermaister]

Roger that. I like what you've done. I'd want to see the end result before committing to the cost of custom sacs.

I have zero storage room left when filled so am always interested in alternatives. Not even sure where to get lead around here, but don't have to worry about a sitting on a lift either.


After the other review and all your updates the Mojo is definitely starting to grow on me more and more. I need to get out in one!

[moombadaze]

. I need to get out in one!

bring your checkbook and just stop off at the dealer on your way home from your ride and pick your colors.

2 things kept me from getting one. Garage door hight for storage, and our local lake, its just small and shallow. the Mojo is just 2 big for both, heck the LSV is pushing it.

[kaneboats]

Looks like I'm going to an 8 ft garage door next week. Hmmm.

[jpetty3023]

@kane, closing on a new house?

@wolfey, I've often thought about lead for up front, opinions one way or other? I also like Berg have no lift concerns, I trailer to my storage unit



sent from my home phone

[wolfeman131]

well, my thought on lead is that it's either in, or it's out. I'm not going to hassle with moving it in and out based on what we're wanting to do. So, why haul around a couple hundred extra pounds and burn more gas when you don't need the weight?

[bergermaister]

True - I kind of convince myself it would be like having a few extra people along for the day. I'd just leave it in the boat all day. Maybe move it from all on one side to spread evenly under the rear bags when we're done?

[jmvotto]

Drew,

Great write up. The mojo locker in the rear is huge, my1100 pops my locker on the xlv.

What's the directional valve for, wouldnt you have the ibs and the center locker full at the same time?

[wolfeman131]

What's the directional valve for, wouldn't you have the ibs and the center locker full at the same time?

I was thinking maybe not for the kids when wakeboarding.

That's IF they ever try wakeboarding again. :)

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[jpetty3023]

I was thinking maybe not for the kids when wakeboarding.

That's IF they ever try wakeboarding again. :)

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Right!! My kids the same way here lately. Had a two hour window the other day. To easy to put boat in and lace up but no, had to spend half our allotted time getting boat surf/trailer ready. Weirdos🏄


sent from my ipad2 via a wireless network which usually sucks

[jmvotto]

funny my kids really are into boarding and with the xlv , no additional weight needed at this time, wake plenty big...

I wish they wanted to surf more so, the DD could get some time in.

[tnbrooks01]

The vent off the top of the IBS is tricky. Since the center hard tank vent is a 1 in line, you need to order a 1 inch Y connector (it's listed as 1 1/8 in on Wakemakers) and a 1 in check valve. I missed that it was 1 in the first time and ordered all 3/4 in parts. Sorry for the bad pic below, but you can see the larger check valve leading to the thru hull vent. That is the only connection I put a hose clamp on. I thought "just in case" it would be easier to get to remove that versus a crimped connection.

Going to order some check valves today. My boat is not here at the house to measure, so does the 2013 have 1" hose or 3/4? or is the 1" only on the center tank?

Thanks

[moombadaze]

Going to order some check valves today. My boat is not here at the house to measure, so does the 2013 have 1" hose or 3/4? or is the 1" only on the center tank?

Thanks

its all 1" hose, no 3/4 stuff anywhere on the ballast

[tnbrooks01]

its all 1" hose, no 3/4 stuff anywhere on the ballast

Great thanks! I thought it was bigger hose than in my 2010 but wanted to make sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mojodog]

thanks for being so detailed and all the great pics...got our new mojo late last season and so far only boarding. Definitely plan to get into surfing this yr and looking at ballast upgrades now. My son works at a shop that can only get straightline and I have spent a good bit of time reading about the fly high bags and that seems like the way to go...did you also consider the L shaped bag to sit on the rear seats? Also, Mike at barefoot int. said that rather than the one bag system in the bow use 2 separate under each seat so you can just weight the side you are surfing on...

[mmandley]

thanks for being so detailed and all the great pics...got our new mojo late last season and so far only boarding. Definitely plan to get into surfing this yr and looking at ballast upgrades now. My son works at a shop that can only get straightline and I have spent a good bit of time reading about the fly high bags and that seems like the way to go...did you also consider the L shaped bag to sit on the rear seats? Also, Mike at barefoot int. said that rather than the one bag system in the bow use 2 separate under each seat so you can just weight the side you are surfing on...

First Welcome, great to hear you have a Mojo.

I have been doing some testing on mine, and i dont want to share it in this thread due to not wanting to mess up Drews thread.

I personally have found some different set ups im messing with. I took some video yesterday and will have to get it uploaded.

Also as fore the Straightline bags, there is no problem using them. I used them in my LSV and i actually have the 900s in the rear of my Mojo right now, while i am waiting on the 1100 to arrive.

I will share, in my Mojo it wants a TON litterally of nose weight. I was getting a much nicer, cleaner, wave with 1500+lbs in my bow then just the 500 center and 650 IBS.

As for dividing up the weight in the bow, i have been thinking of running the 2 450 bags in my bow to weight the nose more but i personally dont want to weight only 1 side of the nose.

Look for a thread on my Mojo surfing experiences comming soon.

[wolfeman131]

I had 3 objectives: good/great wave, no drilling holes in the boat & all hidden. So, I didn't consider the L shaped bag and I didn't/wouldn't consider splitting the front into a 2 bag system. I do wish the IBS was larger.

[mmandley]

. I do wish the IBS was larger.

This is why im thinking of running my 2 450s in the nose, just daisey them together so they run off the single pump and drain still. Not sure if it will work but worth a try. I have no desire to only run 1 eighter.

With the IBS full i still have so much extra room in the bow LOL.

My goal is the same as yours Drew, i dont want a bag in my walkway, or a bag i have to manually fill eighter.

[wolfeman131]

This is why im thinking of running my 2 450s in the nose, just daisey them together so they run off the single pump and drain still. Not sure if it will work but worth a try.

Maybe I'll give that a shot this weekend. I'm sure it will fill fine, but not sure about draining. I did get one of the cube bags with the handles on it to throw around and it helped but I hated throwing the pump over the side & having the kids bang it on the side pulling it in. If chaining them together works, I may do that to this cube and hide it in the space behind the observers seat.

[TeamLockhart]

What prop are you running?....thanks

[wolfeman131]

Cant remember. Whatever the upgraded one is from the factory.

[mcdye]

The recommended upgrade is the Acme 1235.

[slingo]

I sent a long note yesterday with questions and info, but it still hasn't posted, will retype here and if it pops up later, you'll know what happened... :-)

Picked up new Mojo two weekends ago. LOVE IT, but so far unable to get any sort of a 'surfable' wake using the factory ballast and wakeplate, no matter how we've configured it. So looking for suggestions. REALLY appreciate all the info posted here!! That said, I'm sort of miffed that a "surf boat" isn't surfable somewhat right out of the box...even just a recreational wave. I surfed last summer behind a stock MB B52 v23 last year (2,300lbs ridged self-filling ballast) and it had a pretty good wave with no aftermarket ballast and only 4 medium-sized people in the boat.

We have the 345 surf engine with the upgraded Acme prop option and so far I've learned the Mojo does like a lot of nose weight, but the stock 500 tank doesn't appear to be enough. We seem to get close to a surfable wake at 10.7mph with the front tank full, and back port bag (650lbs) full, and a couple of bodies on the port side. But can't create a wave that we can can actually surf. We are currently using a 2011 Hyperlite Broadcast board, which came highly recommended, so that shouldn't be a big problem. Thoughts? Would really appreciate any ideas.

I would HOPE I don't have to buy another $1500 in bags and manual pumps to get a surfable wave.

p.s. The Footers Edge dot com has really good info about configuring ballast. See their Ballast guide PDF.

Thanks!
Steve

[mmandley]

I sent a long note yesterday with questions and info, but it still hasn't posted, will retype here and if it pops up later, you'll know what happened... :-)

Picked up new Mojo two weekends ago. LOVE IT, but so far unable to get any sort of a 'surfable' wake using the factory ballast and wakeplate, no matter how we've configured it. So looking for suggestions. REALLY appreciate all the info posted here!! That said, I'm sort of miffed that a "surf boat" isn't surfable somewhat right out of the box...even just a recreational wave. I surfed last summer behind a stock MB B52 v23 last year (2,300lbs ridged self-filling ballast) and it had a pretty good wave with no aftermarket ballast and only 4 medium-sized people in the boat.

We have the 345 surf engine with the upgraded Acme prop option and so far I've learned the Mojo does like a lot of nose weight, but the stock 500 tank doesn't appear to be enough. We seem to get close to a surfable wake at 10.7mph with the front tank full, and back port bag (650lbs) full, and a couple of bodies on the port side. But can't create a wave that we can can actually surf. We are currently using a 2011 Hyperlite Broadcast board, which came highly recommended, so that shouldn't be a big problem. Thoughts? Would really appreciate any ideas.

I would HOPE I don't have to buy another $1500 in bags and manual pumps to get a surfable wave.

p.s. The Footers Edge dot com has really good info about configuring ballast. See their Ballast guide PDF.

Thanks!
Steve

Steve Congratz on the new Mojo, looking sharp man.

I am going to assume you have the 650 in the rear of the boat yes?

Out of the Box the Mojo will surf but you have to remember that out of the box this boat has to deal with a Factory Load rating, and this takes into account the ballast and PEOPLE so the Factory wont put a slamming 2500LBS system in this boat.

Although through my dealer i got to upgrade the rears to 1100 and add an IBS.

First lets start with whats your surfers weight?
Pic of the wave would be awesome to see if its dialed in correctly.

As for factory setup, to maximize what you have you will need to fill hard tank, fill port side rear, and prolly 30% on Starboard rear. This will add more weight in the back of the boar to make the wave pop up and push a little better.

Also tell me what you feel when you surf?

Does it feel like your constantly on the front of your board trying to speed up?
If so try more wake plate on the boat
Try moving your back foot slightly forward
Move your front foot near the front 8inches of the board
Slow the boat down by .2mph in increments

10.7 is pretty fast for a stock wave, the problem with a stock wave it will be shorter, and the pocket will be small and tight but its there.

Want to experiment before you invest in bags, take your starboard bag, fill it and toss it in the nose and watch how the wave changes, or you can also tell people to sit up there momentary.

[slingo]

MM, thanks for the super fast reply! Yes, we have the standard 650lb backs in each of the back lockers. We've played with varied fill amounts in the other bag (yes, it does help to have ~30-50% in the starboard bag), varied speeds from 9 up to 12, varied plate positions and can't seem to produce a wave that anyone can stay on...including experienced surfers (not world class boat surfers...just guys who have surfed other boats and beaches and have some knowledge).

If I replace the rear 650 bags with 1100 bags, will that get me something?

(btw, what is "IBS"?)

Thanks!
Steve

[mmandley]

MM, thanks for the super fast reply! Yes, we have the standard 650lb backs in each of the back lockers. We've played with varied fill amounts in the other bag (yes, it does help to have ~30-50% in the starboard bag), varied speeds from 9 up to 12, varied plate positions and can't seem to produce a wave that anyone can stay on...including experienced surfers (not world class boat surfers...just guys who have surfed other boats and beaches and have some knowledge).

If I replace the rear 650 bags with 1100 bags, will that get me something?

(btw, what is "IBS"?)

Thanks!
Steve

Also to note the Broadcast is a Slower heavier board, this is why its such a great beginner board. I personally havnt rode it but i have the Ride Board in my quiver and i cant surf it unless i remove the rear center fin to speed the board up.

Yes 1100 in the rear will help tremendously if your not running a lot of nose weight. It will make the wave steeper giving it more push or power but it wont help the pocket length.

IBS integrated bow sack for under your bow seats.

Personally i cant say for sure, as i haven't surfed my idea in my theory yet. Next time we go out <hopefully> this next week we are going to take the 1100 out of the rear and add the 650 back and weight the nose to 1500 and see how it surfs. With my visual testing the wave is much nicer with only a 650 in the rear and a heavy nose but like i said i haven't surfed it yet. If its a stellar set up ill be posting TONS of pics and video to prove this point, but as of right now i cant say its better at all.

[slingo]

Wow, 1500lbs in the nose...watch out for rollers coming at you when you're slowing down! :-)

What's the 411 on pumps? The stock ones seem to take quite a while to fill. If I change out the stern 650s for 1100s, It'll take a VERY long time to fill them. Is it advisable to put in a higher volume pump? Additional pumps?

I'll try taking off the middle fin on my Hyperlite Broadcast and see how that works. IS there a better "intermediate" board I should look at? And what size? I'm 6'5" 200lbs, and my wife is 5'5" 135lbs.

[mmandley]

Wow, 1500lbs in the nose...watch out for rollers coming at you when you're slowing down! :-)

What's the 411 on pumps? The stock ones seem to take quite a while to fill. If I change out the stern 650s for 1100s, It'll take a VERY long time to fill them. Is it advisable to put in a higher volume pump? Additional pumps?

I'll try taking off the middle fin on my Hyperlite Broadcast and see how that works. IS there a better "intermediate" board I should look at? And what size? I'm 6'5" 200lbs, and my wife is 5'5" 135lbs.

Surprising with 1500 up front i still have a good 2-3 feet of nose out of the water when she is approaching you at idle

Pumps will be fine

Fill time should be apx 1 minute per 100 lbs of ballast. 6-7minutes for the 650s and 10-12 minutes for the 1100s

That board is fine for what your doing, as in learning, there is another thread talking about boards to try out.

General rule of thumb, the lighter a board is the faster it is in the water, and the more expensive a board is the lighter and faster it is in the water.

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?21885-Looking-at-new-wake-surf-boards-Which-one

[slingo]

Good link. Thanks!

[TeamLockhart]

Ok aftercmuch research order my IBS 650 will be in next week so we can work our surf wave......also have upgraded the rears to 1100 and just got another Acme 1235 to replace the one on the boat to send out and have a spare....will keep everyone updated on install and results......great page guys!

[pkh]

Hi guys - I am helping my bud get his new Mojo dialed and want to find out where is a good starting point. He wants a good wave but probably won't run as many bags as OP.

It sounds like 1100's in the rears and a bow sac might be a good start? Does the Mojo care if the weight is centered in the bow vs. all on one side?

Thanks!

[wolfeman131]

1). Post pics
2). Order 1,100's from wakemakers. They are plug & play
3). Order IBS, bosworth Y,1" fixed Y and a some hose & clamps from wakemakers.
4). Install #2
5). Enjoy a few cold ones
6). Install #3
7). Enjoy a few cold ones
8). Go surf
9). Enjoy a few cold ones
10). Post pics of you all surfing and enjoying a few cold ones

[wolfeman131]

[QUOTE=mmandley;212762]

General rule of thumb, the lighter a board is the faster it is in the water, and the more expensive a board is the lighter and faster it is in the water.
[QUOTE]

you need to ride more boards . . . . .

The shape and buoyancy are what make a board go faster. Fins also make a difference and quad fin or twin fin set up will offer more speed on a surf style board because there is no fin down the middle like a thruster that holds it back a little.

Flyboy (Jeff & James Walker) do a ton of prototyping of boards. Sometimes technical, but always entertaining read:

http://flyboywakesurf.com/

While these were written specific to traditional surfboards, the terminology is basically the same for wakesurfers:

http://www.islesurfboards.com/surfboard-shaping-fundamentals.aspx
http://allaboutsurfboards.com/surfboard-bottom/

[mmandley]

[QUOTE=mmandley;212762]

General rule of thumb, the lighter a board is the faster it is in the water, and the more expensive a board is the lighter and faster it is in the water.
[QUOTE]

you need to ride more boards . . . . .

The shape and buoyancy are what make a board go faster. Fins also make a difference and quad fin or twin fin set up will offer more speed on a surf style board because there is no fin down the middle like a thruster that holds it back a little.

Flyboy (Jeff & James Walker) do a ton of prototyping of boards. Sometimes technical, but always entertaining read:

http://flyboywakesurf.com/

While these were written specific to traditional surfboards, the terminology is basically the same for wakesurfers:

http://www.islesurfboards.com/surfboard-shaping-fundamentals.aspx
http://allaboutsurfboards.com/surfboard-bottom/

I will check that out but i have ridden more then a dozen different boards and almost all of them have been different styles of surf and my general finding is exactly how i put it. Some boards are heavy such as a couple IS board and they are fast but nothing is as fast as the Soul Craft i have and like i said a lighter board will be faster in the water because it too has less drag.

Also some, but not all boards that have 3 fins will be faster by removing the center fin.
On my Soul Craft its faster by removing the 2 smaller fins and also replacing the rear fins with slightly smaller ones makes it more maneuverable.

Also another consideration is Rider Weight, if your light or well under the boards maximum weight limit the board will of course be much faster then if your heavier and closer to the boards weight limit.

[kaneboats]

Fins make a big difference if the rider is heavier and sinking the board deeper in the water. In other words, different sized riders may feel different things from the same fin setups.

[wolfeman131]

fins 101:

http://www.surfing-gear.net/surfboard-fins.html

A number of pros are now running up to 6 fins on surf style boards. The number of fins shouldn't impact the speed of the board, it's the size of the fins, specifically the base.

[wolfeman131]

Also another consideration is Rider Weight, if your light or well under the boards maximum weight limit the board will of course be much faster then if your heavier and closer to the boards weight limit.

This impacts the board's buoyancy. If you're too heavy for a board, you are impacting the bouyancy (i.e. sinking it) and therefore not gaining the full potential of the design. Ultimately, this is why there isn't a "one size fits all" surfboard.

[pkh]

1). Post pics
2). Order 1,100's from wakemakers. They are plug & play
3). Order IBS, bosworth Y,1" fixed Y and a some hose & clamps from wakemakers.
4). Install #2
5). Enjoy a few cold ones
6). Install #3
7). Enjoy a few cold ones
8). Go surf
9). Enjoy a few cold ones
10). Post pics of you all surfing and enjoying a few cold ones

That sounds like good advice! Thanks!

[muehlcj]

As mentioned in many posts this year, our family REALLY enjoyed surfing behind our 2012 Mojo this season! With help from Moombadaze and Spencer from Wakemakers and stealing ideas from lasvboombox, by the end of the season we got the ballast system figured out. I believe that this setup will work for the 2013 Mojo as well as the 2013 LSV.

My objectives for the system were as follows:



1) Provide a "better than good" regular surf wave.

2) Entirely hidden.

3) No additional pumps, drilling into the hull, etc.

4) Controlled from the driver's seat.

5) Reasonable fill time.



Using a tsunami pump & throwing bags around the boat for the first half of the season, we found the best wave was achieved by weighting the boat as follows:



1) 1,100 lb sac full in port locker

2) 370 lb "tube" sac full under port seats

3) 1,100 lb sac about 40% full in starboard locker

4) 450 lb stock, center hard tank full

5) 650 lb bow sac full



Yep, that's just over 3,000 lbs of ballast. The 345hp Indmar surf motor has no problem getting the Mojo up on plane.

Here is an overview of the system I set up. The blue are fill lines, and the red are vent lines.

The port (or left "L") pump fills/empties the port 1,100 and 370 tube sac. The fill line is simply "T'd" and the line for the 370 runs under the 1,100. The 370 is vented back into the top port on the 1,100 and the 1,100 is vented thru a check valve out the side of the boat. If I do not want to use the 370, I filled a connection with epoxy and can easily cap the fill ine off.

The starboard (or right "R") pump fills/empties the starboard 1,100 sac. No mods done to the factory fill and simply added a check vavle to the vent line.

The center ("C") pump fills/empties the center hard tank and the IBS. At the point the factory tank vent lines runs out from under the floor in the bow storage, I installed the Bosworth directional Y valve. If I choose not to run the IBS, I can vent the center tank out the side. If I want to run the IBS, I rotate the valve and the center tank vents into the IBS. The IBS vent line is "Y'd" back into the factory vent line with a check valve installed.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/MojoBallast.jpg

Purchased and installed all of above per drew's specs, complete with the bosworth directional Y and extra fitting filled with epoxy. All I can say is WOW WOW WOW!!!! We've been running the stock ballast with (1) 750 up front and (1) 750 on rear port seat while we waited for the order form WM. That wasn't bad but this is like a completely different boat. This is spot on the perfect setup for anyone with a mojo.

Not to mentioned if filled perfectly, fit perfectly, drained perfectly. With the check valves there wasn't a drop of water left in any of the bags.

I was able to do the complete mod in just under 2 hours thanks to this post.

Thank you Drew for doing all the leg work!

Anyone that has a mojo and likes to surf this is the best $$$ and time you could possibly spend.

[wolfeman131]

Nice! Glad you're pleased with the results. I've been toying with the idea of switching to an Enzo sac, but having a hard time with that $400+ price tag.

As some have mentioned, I do sometimes have issues with the center tank fully draining. Some have tried different style check valves, I've just been popping off the IBS fill/drain line after its flat.

I've also found when it's just the family, a 150lb "brick" bag in the port corner is great. However, I also found out yesterday that I'm getting old and that trying to move that little sucker from one side to the other while the boat is pitching around isn't good for my back. I tweaked my freakin back so bad yesterday!

[jmvotto]

I find it highly illegal to weight and test a mojo on the south end of ones lake without the proper supervision from an elder forum member...:p

Can't wait to see the pictures

North end member:)

Happy Father's Day

[muehlcj]

South end wave:
17587
17585
Way back - still alot of push
17586

[jmvotto]

Very nice!!!! Looks like that wave is dialed in good, now just have to show you some flat water spots on the lake.

[gurt]

Hello Wolfeman, your setup looks great and I'm planning to upgrade my stock gravity3 system on my Mojo (which is poor for surfing). I maybe do your setup but have some questions :

- the 370 tube sac is the 62" length ? looks too long to fit under the seat (it's the only 370 sac available now) if not, I just find an other one that fit.

- do you have the list of all the fitting and hose that you used? (sorry for that one...). I live in switzerland so it is not simple for me to order a single "missed fitting" have to wait 2 weeks and cost me 38$ of shipping for a 2$ item :-(

- the stock ballast are 3x 150lbs (4'30 of filling time) ? And it is not possible to upgrade the center ballast ?
Thank you very much

[muehlcj]

Hello Wolfeman, your setup looks great and I'm planning to upgrade my stock gravity3 system on my Mojo (which is poor for surfing). I maybe do your setup but have some questions :

- the 370 tube sac is the 62" length ? looks too long to fit under the seat (it's the only 370 sac available now) if not, I just find an other one that fit.

- do you have the list of all the fitting and hose that you used? (sorry for that one...). I live in switzerland so it is not simple for me to order a single "missed fitting" have to wait 2 weeks and cost me 38$ of shipping for a 2$ item :-(

- the stock ballast are 3x 150lbs (4'30 of filling time) ? And it is not possible to upgrade the center ballast ?
Thank you very much

Gurt
I have a spreadsheet I put together for my order. Complete with the links to each item on WM. PM me email and I shoot it over to ya.

[kaneboats]

Way to take car of the Swiss. Don't mess with them or we'll be stuck with second rate chocolate. Plus they have all our secret money.

[gurt]

Hello, to understand, I draw the schematic of the setup. Could you tell me if I'm right ?
Thank you

http://img.imagesia.com/fichiers/99/mojo-ballast2_imagesia-com_99ok_large.bmp (http://imagesia.com/mojo-ballast2_99ok)

[gurt]

:) Don't worry I don't work for a chocolate factory or a bank :)

[kaneboats]

Must be a ski instructor or guard the Pope or something.

[gurt]

Pope guard haha funny! you forgot watchmaker. I work for swiss air navigation services as a technical supervisor (something like FAA in the U.S)

[wolfeman131]

gurt,

I wasn't following all the Swiss stuff. Wish I would have known as the Swiss Wakesurf Championship was just held a few days ago. Some of the best women riders in the world were there including Rebecca Ort & Raleigh Hager. It's a stop my family hopes to make it to in the next 2 yrs.

[gurt]

ok, I didn't know about this championship. I posted a picture (it as to be checked by moderator) of your ballast setup that I've done (like yours) but a bit more detailed (to be sure that I understood it well).

[kaneboats]

Post approved.

Dang it, can't believe I forgot about watchmaking and the army knives.

[gurt]

cheesemaker...
Maybe the hose between the 370 vent and the left 1100 can be 1" because it's used to fill ?

[wolfeman131]

yes, you could actually upgrade all the vent lines to 1" while you're at it. factory has done this for '13 and going forward with the thought that if you're pumping water in thru a 1" then you should be venting with 1" to avoid any issues.

[gurt]

Ok, thanks for info (it seems to be logic to have the same section everywhere). So my schematic is correct ?
The TH off the boat are ok for the 1" or do I have to replace them ?
Thanks

[gurt]

I checked everything and my order is placed ;) (I took some TH 1" in case I have to replace the stock one's) and hope I forgot nothing ! (I always took one extra items of each except the bags :rolleyes:). Just have to wait now...
Thanks for your help guys ! to be continued...

[wolfeman131]

Ok, thanks for info (it seems to be logic to have the same section everywhere). So my schematic is correct ?
The TH off the boat are ok for the 1" or do I have to replace them ?
Thanks

you did good by ordering the 1" TH's as you will need them if you upgrade the vent line to 1".

[gurt]

Cool ! Do I have to enlarge the existing hole in the hull ?

[wolfeman131]

I'm not sure. Guess you'll have to let us know.

[Riddle2.5]

Stock ballast what should i set right left and bow to?

[wolfeman131]

Stock ballast what should i set right left and bow to?

Surfside full, center full, people on surf side & in bow. Wakeplate 3/4 to full up and 10.0-11.0 mph.

[moombadaze]

Cool ! Do I have to enlarge the existing hole in the hull ?

you should not have to.

[trmaggie98]

FYI, if you have surfed before, don't get discouraged if you cannot surf behind the MOJO. We picked up a 2013 Mojo 2 weeks ago. I could not ride the Broadcast so I got a Cortez. I could not ride the Cortez so yesterday I picked up a Duke. I can ride the Duke, but the sweet spot is very small, no matter how you set up the weight and the speed in the boat. Not happy!

[moombadaze]

FYI, if you have surfed before, don't get discouraged if you cannot surf behind the MOJO. We picked up a 2013 Mojo 2 weeks ago. I could not ride the Broadcast so I got a Cortez. I could not ride the Cortez so yesterday I picked up a Duke. I can ride the Duke, but the sweet spot is very small, no matter how you set up the weight and the speed in the boat. Not happy!


are you running stock ballast?

[mmandley]

FYI, if you have surfed before, don't get discouraged if you cannot surf behind the MOJO. We picked up a 2013 Mojo 2 weeks ago. I could not ride the Broadcast so I got a Cortez. I could not ride the Cortez so yesterday I picked up a Duke. I can ride the Duke, but the sweet spot is very small, no matter how you set up the weight and the speed in the boat. Not happy!

If you running the stock ballast then yea your not going to be able to surf it very well.
Stock will be 650 in the rear and 500 hard tank in the center.

The factory wont tell you, nor will the dealer, or anyone else selling the boat say you need a very Minimum of 1100 in the rear and 1000 up front to make a decent surf wave on the Mojo, or most any boat for that reason.

The Mojo is a big wide boat, and if its not leaning then you wont have power and push in the wave.

The best you can do with a factory set up is fill the reg bag 100% fill the starboard bag 30% and fill the center hard tank 100% and go about 10.2 with wake plate 100% up.

Its a surfable wave if you have experience and a good board, but its a short small pocket.

[drifter]

I'm thinking of doing close to this same setup in my 2012 LSV. I would add the 2 1100s in the rear lockers, and an IBS. I would also upgrade the vent line from the center bag to 1" so it could fill the IBS. Is there anything else I need to know?

Thanks

[trmaggie98]

Moombadaze, yes I am running stock ballast. I now realize that I need much more ballast.

[mmandley]

I'm thinking of doing close to this same setup in my 2012 LSV. I would add the 2 1100s in the rear lockers, and an IBS. I would also upgrade the vent line from the center bag to 1" so it could fill the IBS. Is there anything else I need to know?

Thanks

The LSV likes that set up, you will want to run about 400lbs of offset weight in the starboard locker when surfing regular to keep the boat from rolling over too much, and it will help add more power into the wave.

When surfing goofy no weight at all on the port side.

[drifter]

Thanks. Somehow everybody in the family is goofy.

It's too hard to stay in the pocket with the stock gravity III

[mmandley]

Thanks. Somehow everybody in the family is goofy.

It's too hard to stay in the pocket with the stock gravity III

In that case i Extreamly highly reccomend you plan to run weight under the seat behind the driver. Claudia is goofy and untill we added the 450 bag under the seat she was happy, but not excited. After the 450 bag she was super excited about the wave.

This was the LSV with 1100 Starboard filled
SKi Locker Full
650 IBS
and 450 under seats behind driver.

http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu114/mmandley/briansurfinggoofyside.jpg (http://s639.photobucket.com/user/mmandley/media/briansurfinggoofyside.jpg.html)

[wolfeman131]

FYI, if you have surfed before, don't get discouraged if you cannot surf behind the MOJO. We picked up a 2013 Mojo 2 weeks ago. I could not ride the Broadcast so I got a Cortez. I could not ride the Cortez so yesterday I picked up a Duke. I can ride the Duke, but the sweet spot is very small, no matter how you set up the weight and the speed in the boat. Not happy!

You simply don't have the boat set up properly. Do a search on how myself and/or mandley have our boats weighted.

The Mojo can, and does, put out one of the better surf waves out there. My girls have participated in wakesurf competitions and have ridden behind Centurions, Natiques and Malibus and our Mojo throws a wave on par with those boats. Your selection of boards isn't helping your cause either.

[Salyers]

Yes, boat setup is the issue. Stock ballast is not acceptable for good let alone great surfing.

[drifter]

Just placed my order for the 1100s, IBS, and other misc parts. I decided to keep my 3/4" TH and just reduce the vent line coming out of the bosworth from the center bag. Looking forward to the install.

[gurt]

Hi ! Received my order but I wasn't at home. I can pick it up at the post office on monday (2x1100lbs, 370lbs and IBS).
I will install it on Thursday :D

[trmaggie98]

I saw the post where you installed the additional ballast, but doing so reduces all your storage for bumpers, towels, anchor, life jackets, etc... or am I missing something?

[parrothd]

You become very good at packing light and using the storage effectively.. No wasted space or extra crap you never use..

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[WHMOJO]

First off, Great info here... Thanks for the detail.
I just took delivery of my new MOJO (2012 model) last week. I am just getting to know the boat and being new to surfing, thought it was OK but nothing like the picture in this thread. I guess I don't know what I am missing yet...

I am getting back to the lake next week and plan on some upgrading right away but I have a few questions. Please excuse the ignorance but I am literally just one week into this sport.

Why add the check valves in the vents, better for complete drain?
On the Wakemakers site they only refer to the MOJO in the 2013 section, I assume this is where I should be looking and its the Fly high 50x24x24?

I am planning to ease into the mods but thought I would start with an 1100 in the port locker (no goofy surfers yet), 400 in the stock starboard locker, fill the hard tank and perhaps use the stock port bag up front. The way its set up stock I am seeing big changes just from me moving from the drivers seat to the back and letting my wife take the wheel. Can I assume that with this full upgrade set up the wake is more resilient to change as 180 pound passengers move around?

THANKS,

[wolfeman131]

I saw the post where you installed the additional ballast, but doing so reduces all your storage for bumpers, towels, anchor, life jackets, etc... or am I missing something?

Throw the traditional bumpers away or on Craigslist and buy some hippity hop balls or the ones from Exile. Deflate when not in use and they store easy. You can fit a weeks worth of towels behind the observers seat along with life jackets req'd by authorities. Other jackets under rear seat and/or over ski pylon. Box anchor, emergency tow rope, paddle all fit alongside IBS in starboard bow area. Boards in racks and you can even store some on top of whatever side you're not surfing on. Throw the soft side cooler behind drivers seat and snacks under observers seat.

[wolfeman131]

Why add the check valves in the vents, better for complete drain?

On the Wakemakers site they only refer to the MOJO in the 2013 section, I assume this is where I should be looking and its the Fly high 50x24x24?

I am planning to ease into the mods but thought I would start with an 1100 in the port locker (no goofy surfers yet), 400 in the stock starboard locker, fill the hard tank and perhaps use the stock port bag up front. The way its set up stock I am seeing big changes just from me moving from the drivers seat to the back and letting my wife take the wheel. Can I assume that with this full upgrade set up the wake is more resilient to change as 180 pound passengers move around?

THANKS,

Congrats on the new ride!

Check valves prevent air from entering system so back get drained flat or "raisin" as in they look like a raisin.

This is the bag:

http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-jumbo-surf-sac.html

Spend the extra $$ and get a color that compliments your boat.

Your plan to use the stock bag in the bow (under the filler cushion, if you have one) will work fine to start. You'll eventually like having the IBS and bag plumbed in so you dont have to mess with a portable pump, IMO.

Moving 180 lbs will still make a difference, just not as dramatic.

Have fun, post up some pics of your progress!

[WHMOJO]

Thanks! I am going to grab one of those bags locally if i can find one in stock. Also, it would be nice to raisin those bags as currently I end up lifting one end in order to drain the water into the pump when it starts making noise.
On another note, is it worth trying to support the inner wall of the locker to prevent bowing in towards the engine compartment? Even with the small bag mine is bowed in...

I will let you know how it works and take some pics....

[wolfeman131]

I haven't reinforced mine and they have bowed, just not enough for me to care. Yet. I would do it if you get the 1,100

follow these steps:
https://forum.moomba.com/showt...013-mod-thread

[drifter]

You mean these steps?: https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?16190-Bracing-your-V-Drive-locker-for-1100-Fat-Sacs

[WHMOJO]

Ok, picked up an 1100 and a tsunami pump. I hear you on the full plumb in, and i will get there, but i dont mind having the pump around until then.

As soon as i pulled away from the store, i thought i should have grabbed TWO 1100's then i can use both the stock bags up front. I guess I'm going back.

Two more questions:
1. I still need check valves..... I read above that they are 1" everywhere??? Is that correct? I thought i also read on another thread that they were 1"fill but 3/4" vent???
2. Do you simply splice these in close to the TH?

Thanks,

[Salyers]

In the 2012 its 1" for the front tank and 3/4" for the rear lockers

[WHMOJO]

OK then....
I have not seen the 3/4" check valves, only 1 and 1 1/8. Can i assume the 1" will work onto the vent line of the 2012 mojo rear bags? Derek, is this why you referenced your use of the hair dryer to assist in the fitment? If not, let me know if you have been able to source the 3/4 valves.

Also, i did some checking and realized i may have less stock ballast than i thought. GIII in 2012 was only 1250 which would make the rears 400 a piece ( thought they were 625 ea). Good news is i can daisy chain them for the bow. Other than a short hose, will i need more fittings or will the 1100's have the fittings i need? i plan to use the bottom fill ports for connecting them, so thats two 1" quick connects and cap the others as fill/drain ports....

[drifter]

I ordered my 3/4" valves along with everything else from wakemakers. http://www.wakemakers.com/wakeboard-ballast-parts/anti-siphon-check-valves

[gurt]

Hi, just installed the new ballast today. For the 1" TH I have to enlarge the stock holes (didn't take tool to do it). We tested (only 1 driving and 1 surfing). Speed was 15km/h (9.4 mph) max otherwise the wave become dirty. Wakeplate 3/4 up. Starboard ballast 20%. How much did you put in your starboard ballast when wakesurfing ? Did you fill 100% the IBS ? The lake today was not flat at all so maybe it's not the best to test. We will test again tomorrow with more people onboard. About the propeller, did you change it?, it seems the boat as much more difficulties to move all that weight compare to stock ballast !
Timer setting (aprox) Left 13min (1100+370), Center 11 min (stock + IBS) & Right 11min (1100)
Thanks for feedbacks
p.s : my hands are ruined with these damned hose !! even with heatgun !! Especially the "Y" connection !

[wolfeman131]

gurt, I surf with port locker 1,100 full, 370 port full, center full, IBS full and starboard locker 1,100 about 25-50% and @ 11.1 mph with the wakeplate anywhere from 1/4 to full up. The wind and water conditions can impact the wave, but I'm normally able to clean it up pretty easy. I upgraded the prop from the factory and have the 345 hp motor & have no issues at all getting moving.

[E4NASH]

I'm thinking of doing close to this same setup in my 2012 LSV. I would add the 2 1100s in the rear lockers, and an IBS. I would also upgrade the vent line from the center bag to 1" so it could fill the IBS. Is there anything else I need to know?

Thanks

That's what I run in mine with the addition of a 400 under the side seats. I do not fill the opposite side at all. I've found that does NOTHING to help IMO.

[wolfeman131]

I do not fill the opposite side at all. I've found that does NOTHING to help IMO.

for the LSV, I tend to agree. for the Mojo, it needs the off side weight.

[Salyers]

I used the upgraded clear tubing with the black plastic embedded. I place the end of the tubing in boiling water for 30-45 secs and it becomes very flexible and slides over connections with minimal difficultly.

[gurt]

Hello Wolfman, thks for infos. So your prop comes from moomba? I saw some prop from wakeprop.com
Did you remember the model that you have? thx
I don't have issue but it looks that an other prop would be better..

[gurt]

after replacing the prop, did you have to calibrate something because speed at same rpm change or is there a sensor that doesn't depend from prop?

[moombadaze]

Hello Wolfman, thks for infos. So your prop comes from moomba? I saw some prop from wakeprop.com
Did you remember the model that you have? thx
I don't have issue but it looks that an other prop would be better..


Drew has the Acme 1235prop, I do too. nothing to recalibrate, bolt it on and go.

[Salyers]

I think most everyone on here with a Mojo has the 1235 and it does the job without complaint!

[smorris7]

I think most everyone on here with a Mojo has the 1235 and it does the job without complaint!

That is correct. 1235 has no problem even at 5K of ballast.

[drifter]

Got my LSV setup today. Took around 4 hours in 100 degree heat. Props to Salyers for the boiling water trick. I put the connectors in the freezer while the water came to a boil. I would then put the end of the line in the water for about 10 seconds, and then the cold connectors would slip right in.

I'll be on the lake first thing in the morning to try it out. Thanks for the great thread.

[kaneboats]

LOL. I was taking down my "solar" pool heater yesterday. Couldn't get the hose to the heater to slide on the return after I cut the heater out. Nuked a cup of water and soaked it in there for a minute. Slid right home, clamped her down. Great technique.

[Salyers]

Thanks guys, I'd love to take the credit but I learned that trick from my Dad when he installed most of the plumbing in his new house. Saved me lots of sweat and four letter words over the past year.

[kaneboats]

Shoot, I hope Dad doesn't have ballast hose for plumbing all over the house. Then again, bet that house throws a mean surf wave if you can get it moving to 10 mph.

[gurt]

The ACME 1235 is the prop I'm looking for. The guy from wakeprop suggest me the ACME 2079 for my mojo with that ballast config.
I'm afraid about top speed with that 14.5" x 12" prop
As somebody this prop (seems to be a new one) what do you think guys?
The boat is not well with the stock prop to push that weight! And fuel is burning so fast!
I will order the prop next week. As somebody already changed the prop with the boar in the water or is it a bad idea?
Thanks and enjoy w-e

[mmandley]

The ACME 1235 is the prop I'm looking for. The guy from wakeprop suggest me the ACME 2079 for my mojo with that ballast config.
I'm afraid about top speed with that 14.5" x 12" prop
As somebody this prop (seems to be a new one) what do you think guys?
The boat is not well with the stock prop to push that weight! And fuel is burning so fast!
I will order the prop next week. As somebody already changed the prop with the boar in the water or is it a bad idea?
Thanks and enjoy w-e

I'm not positive but that 2079 might be the new prop for the Mojo, I know when i talked to Wake Props they mentioned a bigger prop for the Mojo due to clearance. I would just stick with the 1235 as its a good solid proven prop, plus if for some reason you ever want to sell it, it fits a lot of boats.

As for changing the prop in the water, prolly wont work to well.

When i took my prop off, the drive shaft spins very easily. Plus on the Mojo the Prop is centered with the Ruder to allow the boat to track in a straight line easier. Very hard to get much more then a wrench on the nut. I had to place a block of wood under the prop for it to dig into to stop the shaft from rotating and break loose the nut. Don't remove the nut all the way, leave it on a few threads. When you use the prop puller and the prop breaks loose it till catch on the nut instead of dropping off the shaft.

[kaneboats]

Changing underwater is "in case of emergency only" if you ask me. It's very easy to do on a trailer. Harder to do on a lift and very difficult to do underwater. Now, if you have diving gear and want to play around maybe it would be fun.

[drifter]

Went out this morning. The wave was great... The wife was less than thrilled. She'll get used to driving with all that extra weight & list with more time. She was full of great things to say after she turned too quick and took a big splash over the bow.

On my second time up, I was able to ditch the rope. Something I could have never done with the stock ballast.

Next I might need to investigate a new prop. Looking at wakemakers, they don't show the 1235 for the LSV, but rather the 1433. Any thoughts on this one ?

[mmandley]

Went out this morning. The wave was great... The wife was less than thrilled. She'll get used to driving with all that extra weight & list with more time. She was full of great things to say after she turned too quick and took a big splash over the bow.

On my second time up, I was able to ditch the rope. Something I could have never done with the stock ballast.

Next I might need to investigate a new prop. Looking at wakemakers, they don't show the 1235 for the LSV, but rather the 1433. Any thoughts on this one ?

Honestly if your going to buy anew prop for the LSV get the 1617. I ran that on my LSV when the Wake Board prop wouldnt do it anymore. I got better fuel usage as well and the top speed didnt change from the wake board prop.

1617 is a beast of a prop, and its super quite.

[trmaggie98]

what is a hippity hop ball?

[trmaggie98]

Nevermind, figured it out and found them. Does anyone have a discount code for Exile?

Raining here today, looks like it may be an expensive day for me with online shopping.

[drifter]

Nevermind, figured it out and found them. Does anyone have a discount code for Exile?

Raining here today, looks like it may be an expensive day for me with online shopping.

Yep, I was looking forward to getting out again today with the new setup, but woke up before 6 and saw rain was already in Ft Worth, and was about to get us. I drug myself out of bed, and the boat back to storage. Was back in bed by 6:15. Who would have thought it would rain here in July. Oh well, the lakes need it.

[muehlcj]

I'm running exact same set up as drew and this past weekend we tied the boat at dock ballast fully loaded when we got back on boat 1.5 hours later the now sack was empty. So I flipped switch ran down to empty and refilled. Now the now sack seems to drain to about 1/2 while surfing. Any thoughts?

I checked all of the fittings on bow sack and hard tank (the 2 you can see if you remove the circular cover in floor). No leak. I also filled the bow sack in the boat on trailer and out of the boat in yard no leaks.

????

[lsvboombox]

I'm running exact same set up as drew and this past weekend we tied the boat at dock ballast fully loaded when we got back on boat 1.5 hours later the now sack was empty. So I flipped switch ran down to empty and refilled. Now the now sack seems to drain to about 1/2 while surfing. Any thoughts?

I checked all of the fittings on bow sack and hard tank (the 2 you can see if you remove the circular cover in floor). No leak. I also filled the bow sack in the boat on trailer and out of the boat in yard no leaks.

????

Did you check your impellars? I assume the water insnt draining into your hull?

[muehlcj]

LSV your inbox is full

[trmaggie98]

Wolfeman, why did you install check valves on the vent lines?

[drifter]

Wolfeman, why did you install check valves on the vent lines?

The check valves prevent air from being sucked in through your THs, and make your bags drain flat & look like a raisin.

[WHMOJO]

I am having trouble finding someone who stocks those 3/4" check valves here in Canada.
Also, (stupid me)... When i picked up my 1100's, i considered getting the thread in couplings but thought, "no, I'll re use the ones that came with the bags"..... Since then i have learned about the glue, the hair dryer and how to pop them out... Trying one more location to get them couriered to me before i try to pop them...
While in the process of trying to source the thread in coupler, i made sure to check the sizes and determined the OD of the coupler is 3/4 for the vent and 1 1/8 for the fill ( i kept referring to them as 1")

[drifter]

I am having trouble finding someone who stocks those 3/4" check valves here in Canada.
Also, (stupid me)... When i picked up my 1100's, i considered getting the thread in couplings but thought, "no, I'll re use the ones that came with the bags"..... Since then i have learned about the glue, the hair dryer and how to pop them out... Trying one more location to get them couriered to me before i try to pop them...
While in the process of trying to source the thread in coupler, i made sure to check the sizes and determined the OD of the coupler is 3/4 for the vent and 1 1/8 for the fill ( i kept referring to them as 1")

I did the hair dryer for about 10-12 minutes on mine, and it unscrewed pretty easy with channel locks. Wear gloves. I had to do that to remove the 3/4" vent from my center bag so I could change it out to the 1" to fill the IBS. I then re-used that fitting for the vent line on the IBS.

Guess you don't want to pay the taxes and shipping rates from wakemakers.

[WHMOJO]

Shipping, taxes and duty and TIME. If i had more time i would use wakemakers and use USPS, and eliminate duty charges. Main concern though is time... If they come from canada, i can get them in a day or two.

I will try your method but i want to get the fittings in first cause if i wreck it, i wont have any bag to fill. Once the 1100's are in, i will cap the 400's for bow ballast using tsunami pump.

[lsvboombox]

Not sure where in Can you are but flowrite is in michigan. You can order direct from them and the fittings are 50% cheaper than wakemakers

[trmaggie98]

New 1100's and bow sack shipped today! Whoop!

[drifter]

New 1100's and bow sack shipped today! Whoop!

But it will be Monday/Tuesday before you get them right? Waiting is the hardest part.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

[gurt]

Hy, I have some pictures of my ballast installation (same setup as wolfeman)

Here is a maybe better picture of the Boshworth valve :

http://img.imagesia.com/fichiers/a4/imag0458_imagesia-com_a4bn_small.jpg (http://imagesia.com/imag0458_a4bn)

And I add this valve inline with the fill of the 370lbs under the seat so I don't have to disconnect any thing :

http://img.imagesia.com/fichiers/a4/imag0459_imagesia-com_a4br_small.jpg (http://imagesia.com/imag0459_a4br)

And here are some pictures of my ACME 1235 installation (I was today) and I will test it tomorrow !
I hope it is better than stock because the size and pitch are almost the same (14.5 vs 14.25) :

http://img.imagesia.com/fichiers/a4/imag0485_imagesia-com_a4bx_small.jpg (http://imagesia.com/imag0485_a4bx)

http://img.imagesia.com/fichiers/a4/imag0498_imagesia-com_a4bt_small.jpg (http://imagesia.com/imag0498_a4bt)

[gurt]

http://img.imagesia.com/fichiers/a4/imag0500_imagesia-com_a4bu_small.jpg (http://imagesia.com/imag0500_a4bu)

http://img.imagesia.com/fichiers/a4/imag0502_imagesia-com_a4by_small.jpg (http://imagesia.com/imag0502_a4by)

[trmaggie98]

Drifter, they should be here Tuesday.

[gurt]

trmaggie98, I'm sure you will enjoy with these ballast !! But You will probably change the prop due to extra weight...
For my 2012 mojo the stock prop was 14.25" x 14.5" and the ACME 1235 is a 14.5" x 14.25" so quite the same. I would choose the ACME 2079 with 12" of pitch ! I will try my prop today, hope it's better otherwise I will go for the 2079 and sell my 1235. Give you feedback tomorrow.
One more thing, I was always wakesurfing with a lower speed than everybody (same boat, same ballast...) so I checked the speed with a GPS and it was wrong. The display was about 2mph lower than real speed! So I was at a correct speed when wakesurfing (about 10-11 mph) so I adjust the displayed speed with the menu -> adjust paddlewheel or something like that and now it's fine

[WHMOJO]

Gurt, did you glue the fittings into your fat sacs? Mine spin and spin and don't seem to tighten. Did you use pliers or just tighten by hand?

Thanks,

[mmandley]

trmaggie98, I'm sure you will enjoy with these ballast !! But You will probably change the prop due to extra weight...
For my 2012 mojo the stock prop was 14.25" x 14.5" and the ACME 1235 is a 14.5" x 14.25" so quite the same. I would choose the ACME 2079 with 12" of pitch ! I will try my prop today, hope it's better otherwise I will go for the 2079 and sell my 1235. Give you feedback tomorrow.
One more thing, I was always wakesurfing with a lower speed than everybody (same boat, same ballast...) so I checked the speed with a GPS and it was wrong. The display was about 2mph lower than real speed! So I was at a correct speed when wakesurfing (about 10-11 mph) so I adjust the displayed speed with the menu -> adjust paddlewheel or something like that and now it's fine

What engine do you have?

I have the 350 surf engine, run 3K of ballast and 10 people with no issues wake surfing. No cavitation or anything.
I have no issues pulling people up.
I am also still only using 3.5-4 gallons an hour.

[gurt]

Hy, no I didn't glue the fittings. I just tighten by hand but it spin also. The fittings on the stock ballast were glued by the ex-owner. I will glue them I think because water flows by the vent when full.
About the prop, the result is good now with the ACME 1235 ! with the stock prop, I could wakesurf without problem with the ballast full (~3k) but I had some vibrations and the boat was not really able to go faster than wakesurf speed. The wave look better with the ACME prop (or it is psychologic...)

[Salyers]

Hy, I could wakesurf without problem with the ballast full (~3k) but I had some vibrations and the boat was not really able to go faster than wakesurf speed. The wave look better with the ACME prop (or it is psychologic...)

I don't think you'll want to go much faster with wake surf setup (boat lean). What's your RPM at surf speed. We just ran 5k this weekend and want to get a different prop because RPMs were around 34-3500. I would like to keep it around 3000 RPM under load.

Also some additional weight in the front may help you plain easier. We run a total of 2000k in our bow.

[moombadaze]

I don't think you'll want to go much faster with wake surf setup (boat lean). What's your RPM at surf speed. We just ran 5k this weekend and want to get a different prop because RPMs were around 34-3500. I would like to keep it around 3000 RPM under load.

Also some additional weight in the front may help you plain easier. We run a total of 2000k in our bow.


I have had my boat up on plane with surf ballast full--very strange driving to say the least with it leaned over.

id think trying to prop your rpms to 3k running 5k ballast is not so good. you want to prop it so you can reach your upper rpm range at top speed. there is a thread on here from Enginenut--he is the indmar guru about this

[gisepi]

Does anyone have a picture of the ibs full in the front of the MOJO???

[icemanftr]

Pretty impressive! Cant wait to do this to my 13 LSV, pretty motivated now after seeing this.

[mmandley]

Does anyone have a picture of the ibs full in the front of the MOJO???

What type of picture? Just the IBS bag or the nose of the boat in the water?

As you add more weight the RPM will go up due to the engine working harder to maintain speed. My engine runs pretty consistent 2900-3100 for surfing depending on the speed and side of the boat we are surfing and people on board.

Goofy side is pretty dead on 2900 every time, Regular varies due to who is riding, some like it faster some like it slower.

Along with what Drew mentioned on proping, your boat due to max RPM its also important to pay attention to cavitation, when this happens it will feel like the boat is loosing forward traction, almost skipping, very similar to you spinning your tires at a stop light in your car.

If this is happening pretty consistently then you need a larger prop.

When we are surfing with 7+ people < general size of our crew this year > we are starting to get cavitation. Thinking about moving up to the 2079 but not sure yet.

[trmaggie98]

When I purchased the IBS kit they told me how to pipe it in and I took notes and made a schematic. However that is all at the office and I am home trying to put this together tonight.

I have 2 tee's and a check valve.

I assume they wanted me to install a tee on the center tank fill line and run the third side of the tee to the fill of the bow sack. Then install the second tee in the center tank overfill line and tie the overfill for the new bow sack.

So where should the check valve go? Put in the overfill between the tee and the boat hull? Or install it between the tee and the new bow sack?

[drifter]

I pretty much followed Gurt's schematic.

I left about an 8" lead coming from the TH by cutting the pipe there. This is where I installed the check valve. Coming out of the check valve, I had another short lead, then a Y. The main leg went to the check valve, one end to the vent of the IBS, and the other to the port on the bosworth for when I don't want to fill the IBS.

At least i think that's how I did it. Again, I followed the very good schematic that was posted.

[trmaggie98]

He did not sell me the Bosworth. Said I did not need it. I think I need to install the check valve between the tee and the TH. I did not get it done tonight. I got the rear bags out, but dumped a lot of water in the boat when I did it. So the boat is opened up tonight airing out. I will call them tomorrow and double check. Looks like I will be trying to complete it on Wednesday night and Thursday night. Then head out to Bethy Friday morning.

I did get all the Allen screws tightened on the rack.

[wolfeman131]

Does anyone have a picture of the ibs full in the front of the MOJO???

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/05/je6ageza.jpg

Port leg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/05/qyse2u9y.jpg

[wolfeman131]

A bosworth valve isn't needed IF you always want the IBS full. I thought there might be times when we only wanted the center full.

If you don't want the bosworth, you don't need any tees. Run the center vent line directly into the IBS and run the IBS vent to the thru hull. Put the check valve on the vent line. Make sense? Should be a very easy install - like 10 min/1 beer. The center vent is just ahead of the drivers footrest.

[gisepi]

Thanks Drew, I am gonna need to get on this can't wait to have that extra hidden ballast up front.

[slingo]

RE speedo readings, I found the same...both the digital and the analog speedos were off by at least 2MPH. The digital was easy to reset (just dig into the menu...I seem to recall I had to be moving to make the adjustment). Spoke with my dealer just yesterday about adjusting the analog speedo and he said there's a silver knob behind the ignition switch for adjusting that. My boat is at the lake 2 hours south, so haven't be able to confirm that yet, but will this weekend.

Note: be sure you're not on moving water (e.g. river) when setting your speedos via GPS. :-)

If it helps, we have the 345 surf engine and the larger ACME prop and have NO Problem getting out of the hole with 2200 pounds of ballast and a boat full of peeps and gear. For us, depending on the size of the board and the surfer, we get the best wake (port side) going between 10mph and 10.7mph, usually with ~half a wake plate. We fill an 1,100 lb bag in the port locker, 500lbs in the center tank, and 650lbs IBS in the nose (none in the starboard locker). This seems to give us the best wake. But we're new to it this year, so I'm VERY open to suggestions for making it better!

Steve
2013 Mojo

[NateHaskovec]

Just to remind you, if you put a check valve on the ibs vent and you have a hard tank, the hard tank won't drain.

You need air to get in the tank to pump it down.

Either a backwards check valve or a vacuum breaker needs to be on the vent line close to the tank.

[slingo]

btw, regarding the Wake Plate: I've had trouble all year with the Wake Plate resetting itself randomly. And occasionally the dial arm goes all the way around(!!). Dealer replaced the power control module and that didn't do it. Dealer told me this week he's spoken with Skiers Choice about it at length and they have been having similar problems elsewhere...and THINK they know now what's been causing it...and should be sending out a new service bulletin about it shortly.

[moombadaze]

btw, regarding the Wake Plate: I've had trouble all year with the Wake Plate resetting itself randomly. And occasionally the dial arm goes all the way around(!!). Dealer replaced the power control module and that didn't do it. Dealer told me this week he's spoken with Skiers Choice about it at length and they have been having similar problems elsewhere...and THINK they know now what's been causing it...and should be sending out a new service bulletin about it shortly.


same issue here

[NateHaskovec]

same issue here

x3 on the wakeplate issue.

[mmandley]

x3 on the wakeplate issue.

Having the same issue,
Add to it
my boat will randomly stall when we goto idle position
It also has issues with actually turning on the pumps, dash says they are running and filling or draining but aren't.

Next week they are replacing PCM. They said it effects all those issues.

[NateHaskovec]

So the wakeplate, digital dash, and engine are all controlled by the PCM?

I would think they would use a standard ECM and have the other components using stand-alone circuitry...

[mmandley]

So the wakeplate, digital dash, and engine are all controlled by the PCM?

I would think they would use a standard ECM and have the other components using stand-alone circuitry...

im not positive, im pretty sure the engine is on an ecm and the rest of the boat is pcm, dealer said my ballast, dash readings, and wake plate are all a result of a bad pcm

[trmaggie98]

Can someone with mojo ibs call me. Trying to get this bag piped in so I can make the meet tomorrow.

817-819-5146

[wolfeman131]

Calling now.

[trmaggie98]

Thanks Drew.

[gurt]

Just to remind you, if you put a check valve on the ibs vent and you have a hard tank, the hard tank won't drain.

You need air to get in the tank to pump it down.

Either a backwards check valve or a vacuum breaker needs to be on the vent line close to the tank.

That's right !! That's why my center hard + IBS are full when only 60% is displayed !! In fact, my tank never drain... But I don't understand where you want to put an other valve...

[jstenger]

The following link is a fix for the center hard tank and IBS draining problem.

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?19516-Ballast-vents&p=199202#post199202

The spring loaded check valve acts as a vacuum breaker.

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?19516-Ballast-vents&p=208411#post208411

[rbeckner27]

Any idea on where and exactly what spring loaded check valve or vacuum breaker to get?

[hitboost]

Any idea on where and exactly what spring loaded check valve or vacuum breaker to get?

Ever find the answer to your question? I'm curious as well.

So I've got the shopping cart ready and waiting. Can you guys tell me if there is anything else I need for the IBS install in a '13 LSV? I think I've got everything covered. Thanks for all the help!

[rbeckner27]

Was told Home Depot but i haven't checked yet.

[jstenger]

I plan on using this plastic spring check valve as long as the threads match when I install an IBS in my new LSV.

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd382/Joestenger/CheckValve.jpg (http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/Joestenger/media/CheckValve.jpg.html)

http://www.doitbest.com/Main.aspx?PageId=64&SKU=435808#online

It is available on EBAY and Amazon also.

[moombadaze]

on my IBS install, I took the vent line from the infloor tank and cut it about 6" after coming up thru the floor infront of the driver, add a Tee fitting, one side of the T goes to the IBS lower port, the upper port goes to the vent thruhull on the side of the boat, this has a wakemakers inline check valve. On the other side of the T I ran a line up higher than the vent thruhull and added a spring check valve from Ace hardware or from Home depot-had it a few years and just don't remember where it came from. When the ibs is full it will flow out the vent thruhull. when empting the ibs will dang near drain 99%, then when the vacuum pressure hits a certain point the spring check valve will open and let the infloor tank drain about 90-95%, then when im on the ramp pulling the boat out I have my wife hit the empty to finish the job on all 3 bags as there is allways some water left. anyway this is how mine is and it seams to work pretty good-all automated, no valves to mess with. hope this helps, if any questions feel free to ask

[moombadaze]

hitboost, not sure where your planning to use the Bosworth valve, other than that your shopping list looks good

[jstenger]

on my IBS install, I took the vent line from the infloor tank and cut it about 6" after coming up thru the floor infront of the driver, add a Tee fitting, one side of the T goes to the IBS lower port, the upper port goes to the vent thruhull on the side of the boat, this has a wakemakers inline check valve. On the other side of the T I ran a line up higher than the vent thruhull and added a spring check valve from Ace hardware or from Home depot-had it a few years and just don't remember where it came from. When the ibs is full it will flow out the vent thruhull. when empting the ibs will dang near drain 99%, then when the vacuum pressure hits a certain point the spring check valve will open and let the infloor tank drain about 90-95%, then when im on the ramp pulling the boat out I have my wife hit the empty to finish the job on all 3 bags as there is allways some water left. anyway this is how mine is and it seams to work pretty good-all automated, no valves to mess with. hope this helps, if any questions feel free to ask

I am glad to see my spring check valve idea worked. I will be installing it in the near future.

[rbeckner27]

I just installed my 1100s with the check valves in the rear compartments but I didn't buy any additional ballast piping so I can only reach the rear vent on the bag and not the front. Is it necessary to reach the front vent location?

[wolfeman131]

Nope, you should be ok.

[rbeckner27]

Has anyone put a T in the center tank to IBS line in order to put a fill/drain on both legs of the IBS?
I just struggle to see how all the water on the opposite side of the IBS is going to drain to the one leg.

[wolfeman131]

You can try, but it will require you to drill a hole in the floor of that compartment. There are dozens of us that have done it off 1 leg without issue.

[rbeckner27]

What did you ever decide about the check valve and the hard tank situation?

[wolfeman131]

Once the IBS was fully drained, I would give the "AIR" fitting on the top center to relieve any vacuum pressure & finish draining the hard tank.