Oil Change

[deerfield]

Getting ready to winterize. What are the risks if I do not change the oil and filter? I do this at the end of each season. This one, however, the boat was on the water twice for a total of six hours. Normal use with skiers and tubers. I am fine changing the oil and filter if there is a benefit to the engine. On the other hand, if it's just a waste of time and money because of the low hours, I will skip. Appreciate any guidance. Thanks, guys. - Deerfield

[lsvboombox]

I dont see any harm in waiting. Just let her run before you change her in the spring to suspend all the junk.

[mmandley]

I dont see any harm in waiting. Just let her run before you change her in the spring to suspend all the junk.

Im of a slightly different thought. I also dont always change my oil at the end of the season. Sometimes i wait till the new season but i dont restart the engine. I dont want all that nasty dirty oil thats been sitting for all winter to cycle threw my engine.

Different thoughts but honestly i dont think it matters that much.

[lsvboombox]

Here is someone elses take on oil changes at end or start o the season.

"It is better to change the oil and transmission fluid at the end of the season, prior to storage. Lubricants naturally accumulate moisture, combustion by-products, and other contaminants during use. It can be detrimental to store an engine or drive with large amounts of these contaminants present."

I still think it doesnt matter. Oif i have the time i change it at the end, if to busy i change next year

[lsvboombox]

Im of a slightly different thought. I also dont always change my oil at the end of the season. Sometimes i wait till the new season but i dont restart the engine. I dont want all that nasty dirty oil thats been sitting for all winter to cycle threw my engine.

Different thoughts but honestly i dont think it matters that much.

Here is the reasoning i use for running the motor


"Before you begin an oil change, the engine should be hot. Warm oil is easier to suck through a rubber hose or brass straw, but the reason for running the engine is more essential than that. You are changing the oil because it is contaminated with abrasive and chemical impurities. But the dirt in oil is just like dirt in water; leave it undisturbed and it settles to the bottom. Suck out the cold oil and much of the dirt stays behind, immediately contaminating the fresh oil and defeating the whole purpose of the oil change. Run the engine to get all of the contaminants in suspension so they come out with the oil."

[mmandley]

Here is the reasoning i use for running the motor


"Before you begin an oil change, the engine should be hot. Warm oil is easier to suck through a rubber hose or brass straw, but the reason for running the engine is more essential than that. You are changing the oil because it is contaminated with abrasive and chemical impurities. But the dirt in oil is just like dirt in water; leave it undisturbed and it settles to the bottom. Suck out the cold oil and much of the dirt stays behind, immediately contaminating the fresh oil and defeating the whole purpose of the oil change. Run the engine to get all of the contaminants in suspension so they come out with the oil."

I understand your thoughts here.

[mnpracing]

How's this for super anal. I change every 30 hours, and also at the end AND beginning of each season. I run the engine before all changes to make it easier to evac. I change V-drive and tranny every 50, but again at beginning AND end of season. To me, it's extremely cheap insurance. Even if the benefit is marginal, it doesn't cost that much....my $.02

The guy who bought my LSV asked "why do you do that when you only keep the boat for a couple years". My answer was that I always intend to keep my stuff forever....it just rarely happens.

[kaneboats]

My first thought was that in the spring I would not want to recirculate the used oil. But, traditional draining would be from the low point in the pan. If you are sucking the oil out this might not apply. I would be tempted to suck out everything I could get (without running the engine) then add a quart and let it run down into the pan. Then I'd try to pump out as much of this as I could get before refilling and then running the engine. With only 6 hours I wouldn't be too worried about it though.

[maxpower220]

I am in the camp of changing at the end of the season. Since everything will settle to the bottom, used oil will have some moisture. It will settle at some point in the pan and will etch a rust line around the oil pan while being stored over the winter. In reality, it is not a big deal. If done for several years, you will have a rusty oil pan that will introduce particles into the oil.

Changing the oil at the end of the season will do a lot to prevent this build up.

[jmb]

I change mine every 50 hours, period, whatever time of year that works out to be. I run mine once a m9onth in the winter time instead of fogging it in. 734 hours and not a problem yet (maybe I shouldn't have said that).

[loudsubz]

Quick question

for changing the oil

a.) can the drain hose be pulled out through the bilge plug in the back to drain into a pan or is it only meant to be used to suck out with a evap suction type device?

b.) any issues changing the oil on the water?

[wolfeman131]

Yes to "b" if you attempt "a"


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[Boonejeepin]

A) you can pull the hose and rain into a pan. It is really slow to let it drain on it's own.

B) can't think of any problem with changing oil on the water.

I pull the hose through the bilge
plug hole and use a hand pump to pump the oil out. This way I don't accidentally spill the old oil in the boat while I am getting out.

[Boonejeepin]

Yes to "b" if you attempt "a"


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[loudsubz]

Changed the oil today, only got around 4l out including filter waste. I even stuck the Evap hose down the dipstick tube but it wasn't picking up anymore. Manual states around 5.5 liters so I was kinda confused.

What do you guys do for v drive and transmission change? Do you just suck it out fill as well or go to the length of tryin to remove the drain bolt on the back of the Walter unit and also clean the screen on the front?

[rdlangston13]

5.5 quarts.

That being said 4 liters is only 4.2 quarts but it's common to be a quart low due to burning oil under a load


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[DOCDRS]

I got 5.5 litres out as I had to put 5.5 liters back in.....just a wee bit more than the 5 litre jug of shell rotella.....but I use a large cap oil filter but prob accounts for .3 litres more max

[harmsway]

Changed the oil today, only got around 4l out including filter waste. I even stuck the Evap hose down the dipstick tube but it wasn't picking up anymore. Manual states around 5.5 liters so I was kinda confused.

I have changed the oil 5 times on our boat & I only get about 4 quarts out of each time. I have also checked the oil level before I changed it and checked it on the lake and it has always read full. This last time I even let the oil drain for 6 days and I still only got about 4 quarts.

[MLA]

I have changed the oil 5 times on our boat & I only get about 4 quarts out of each time. I have also checked the oil level before I changed it and checked it on the lake and it has always read full. This last time I even let the oil drain for 6 days and I still only got about 4 quarts.

Depending on the filter, you will have .5 qt or better in there. Next time you change it, catch as much as possible, then drain the filter for a day and add what you get out of it to what is removed from the crankcase. I bet you will get a little closer to 5 qts.In as many different boats ive done, I rarely get out what the manual says it takes to fill it up. I make sure of the level before I start, note what I take out, and then refill accordingly. I pour in at least what was removed and add a little if it was down before I started, but not overfilling buy putting in what the manual states.