Exiled...

[ian ashton]

Word on the streets is that there will soon be a big build thread on here, involving a lot of Exile gear and a 2013 LSV...

I'll be sure to post pics as we go, I know Chase (the owner of the green & black LSV I've been posting about) is super stoked for his gear to arrive, and I'm pumped to jump into another big build.

[lewisb13]

Seems as though we have opposite problems. Got the gear, but waiting on my boat lol. Would much rather have your problem though. Hopefully we will be able to bounce ideas off each other....

[moombadaze]

Seems as though we have opposite problems. Got the gear, but waiting on my boat lol. Would much rather have your problem though....

I have the same problem as you, and agree, I would much much rather have Ian's friends problem, heard today I'm at least a month out for a spray date, Skiers Choice is busy busy.

Ian, whats on order? and make sure to post photo's

[ian ashton]

I have the same problem as you, and agree, I would much much rather have Ian's friends problem, heard today I'm at least a month out for a spray date, Skiers Choice is busy busy.

Ian, whats on order? and make sure to post photo's

Literally the exact same thing you did, I believe;
XM9
Harpoon
3x SX65M
Xi800.4
Xi12 sub
Xi1500.1 sub amp
ZLD

It is everything Brian recommended, like a mini demo boat, haha

I also just finished the dual battery setup with ACR, so we don't have to worry about the juice.

[ian ashton]

Seems as though we have opposite problems. Got the gear, but waiting on my boat lol. Would much rather have your problem though. Hopefully we will be able to bounce ideas off each other....

Is that XM9, Harpoon, ZLD and wires? If so, you'll love it. The XM9 / Harpoon combo in my boat is killer


I love everything Exile makes, and I'm excited to compare the sub to my L7s - Brian is convinced that once I'm done with Chases boat I'll be ordering the Exile sub setup for mine, lol. I might as well since I have all of the above listed equipment in my boat too (except the ZLD)

[lewisb13]

I opted for the 800.4 with each set of xm9. Only one set now until i can hear what it sounds like. It just gets so hot here, compartment temps of 150+ are not uncommon. Brian recommended against the harpoon and to go with two amps that wouldn't have to work as hard. Guess I could have gone with two harpoons lol. I also got a zld with the kit. I wanted the big12 with the 1500.1 but the big12 was on backorder about 3 weeks ago when I placed my order. I'm going to end up with 4 amps in this boat probably, but should be super efficient.

[jmvotto]

Let me know how that sub sounds, cuz the 800.4 to power the sx65m cabins and the 1500.1 for my xi12 dvc is on my list plus the zld, then I will be totally Exiled

[sandm]

heard today I'm at least a month out for a spray date, Skiers Choice is busy busy.


I would bet that sucks daze, but congrats to skiers. that's a great problem to have right now :)
I hope it's a successful spring boating season for every builder/dealer..

[moombadaze]

I would bet that sucks daze.

it does, royally. But what to do other than knock a few off the honeydo list and buy more stuff for mods in the meantime. Thinking about lighting now.

[moombadaze]

Literally the exact same thing you did, I believe;
XM9
Harpoon
3x SX65M
Xi800.4
Xi12 sub
Xi1500.1 sub amp
ZLD

It is everything Brian recommended, like a mini demo boat, haha



SWEET, that's the exact same. I can't wait to see the photo's of how you get everything mounted and how you think it sounds

[ian ashton]

Let me know how that sub sounds, cuz the 800.4 to power the sx65m cabins and the 1500.1 for my xi12 dvc is on my list plus the zld, then I will be totally Exiled

When I switched from Kicker 700.5 to Exile Xi800.4 on the cabin speakers there was a night and day improvement.

[jmvotto]

When I switched from Kicker 700.5 to Exile Xi800.4 on the cabin speakers there was a night and day improvement.

Damn it... your spending my $$ again..darn this forum:D

[ian ashton]

ACR installed;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/06/ururary7.jpg

Going to put 2 amps on the right side, and one on the seat back;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/06/ezyqy7aq.jpg

[moombadaze]

off to a good start there

is there not enough room on the amp board for all 3 amps ?

[ian ashton]

Not in that spot. It's like 24" high, and each amp is 10". There is ~29" (memory, I could be way off) of useable space wide, so if you really worked it you might be able to squeeze 3 horizontally. I figure I'll keep the sub amp in the seat back to keep the big heat generators (or amps that see the most use while sitting) far apart. Since the Harpoon will likely see less use I'm going to put it next to the 800.4 on the side wall.

[moombadaze]

that makes sense

[moombadaze]

Damn it... your spending my $$ again..darn this forum:D

This place and people sure have a way of doing that, a victum myself




I went from a 200 to the Exile 800 on the incabins, talk about a difference

[ian ashton]

More of some of the leds;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/06/ujumazyv.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/06/yradyqas.jpg

I relocated the fire extinguisher. Going to build the box here too;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/06/suzuvaqu.jpg

[lewisb13]

IAN - You gonna be able to use those power and ground strips for the ZLD or are you going all the way back to the battery?

[mmandley]

IAN - You gonna be able to use those power and ground strips for the ZLD or are you going all the way back to the battery?

You could use them but more then liely you will pick up the noise from fans, engine, and such. Same as you do in the HU that so many complain about. Its still best IMO to run it to the battery just as you would your amps.

[ian ashton]

I'll probably run back to the HU, since I have to pull the RCAs anyway.

[lewisb13]

Did you just use the stock battery switch with the 7610 acr? Or did you buy the whole add-a-battery kit?

[ian ashton]

On this boat we did the sole ACR. On my boat I did the Add-A-Battery and have never needed the switch, so I just left the factory switch in place this time around.

The factory switch is not capable of separating/combining 2 batteries, it is merely an on/off for the start battery.

[wolfeman131]

Nice work, Ian!

[ian ashton]

A bunch of boxes never looked so sexy;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/11/agezamev.jpg

Before;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/11/2e9ahu9a.jpg

After;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/11/yba8uquz.jpg

Starting to wire the Xi800.4, and ran the main power/ground runs;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/11/5yry5aha.jpg

[ian ashton]

Can anyone guess what happened next here;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/11/2aze3u7y.jpg

[jpetty3023]

LED's??!!


Sent from my home phone..

[KG's Supra24]

Looking to this fella like you goings to need one of them got dang speaker holes there cuz someone plum forgot it



Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[ian ashton]

It is definitely fun cutting holes in a brand new boat, while the owner cringes!

[moombadaze]

It is definitely fun cutting holes in a brand new boat, while the owner cringes!

This is the reason I ordered the front speakers myself, I have not issues driliing holes into fiberglass, but cutting the seatbacks to install speakers just was not going to happen.

Looking good so far, keep them coming

[ian ashton]

All the holes are cut and the wires run, we just had to trim the vinyl out to mount the speaker in the factory location.

[jmvotto]

All the holes are cut and the wires run, we just had to trim the vinyl out to mount the speaker in the factory location.

glad your doing in on someone elses boat, vinyl cuts would not be in my mod list .


:eek:

[EarmarkMarine]

Vinyl cuts are no big deal....BUT, you must correctly terminate the vinyl (beyond the four speaker screws) so that it has no ability to stretch. Otherwise you may have issues later.

David
Earmark Marine

[bergermaister]

glad your doing in on someone elses boat, vinyl cuts would not be in my mod list .


:eek:

Helped a buddy do this to his little Blue Water runabout during an install last year. I was cringing when we cut the first hole through the vinyl for the 6.5" near one of the rear seats but it really wasn't that bad at all surprisingly. Was still glad it was HIS boat though for those first few seconds!

[ian ashton]

Bow speakers installed;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/12/emy7u2ep.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/12/yhesygav.jpg

Xi800.4 on top, Harpoon on bottom;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/12/su5ynunu.jpg

The start of distribution blocks;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/12/u4ynuzez.jpg

[E4NASH]

How long are those screws that you used to mount the amp board and the distros?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ian ashton]

3/8" or 1/2" I don't recall. The are they are screwed into is super thick.

[C.Hern5972]

very nice... Cant wait to get my exile installed

[Brianinpdx]

I gotta say, that green vinyl is a super cool color. Install is looking good Ian. Will be fun to see that boat on the water rocking loud. That's Chase's boat right?

@Chris; You working with Travis right? If so, that guy cracks me up. He's nuts!~ But does know what he's doing. I never did hear what the final configuration was.

[bzubke1]

Do you happen to know the model number on those distribution blocks? I've been looking for a single input to a 4 output.

[kaneboats]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/12/u4ynuzez.jpg

For a second there I thought it said "GA POWER". LOL!

[lewisb13]

DB8014 i think is the 4 spot ground (http://www.midtownsounds.com/db8014.html), which I think you could just use two of those (one power one ground) but if you have to have a fused power dist block take a look at http://www.midtownsounds.com/tsfdb4-manl.html

The title is a little confusing because it says (4) 4ga or 8ga out, but then you read the descrition, it says (2) 4ga out and (2) 8ga out. So Im not sure, but this should get you started.

It looks like Ian used 2x of the DB8014, but not sure. Maybe he can confirm.

[tarheelskier]

On this boat we did the sole ACR. On my boat I did the Add-A-Battery and have never needed the switch, so I just left the factory switch in place this time around.

The factory switch is not capable of separating/combining 2 batteries, it is merely an on/off for the start battery.

Ian, so you can add an ACR to the factory, one-battery set-up and it will function correctly, without the new switch? I want to add a battery, but don't want to change the switch if not necessary. Anyone else running an ACR with the factory , one-battery, on-off switch?

[EarmarkMarine]

Ian, so you can add an ACR to the factory, one-battery set-up and it will function correctly, without the new switch? I want to add a battery, but don't want to change the switch if not necessary. Anyone else running an ACR with the factory , one-battery, on-off switch?

Jeff,
I hesitate to get started on this subject because it can get complicated.
I prefer using the 5511e Blue Sea dual circuit switch in conjunction with any ACR/VSR. There are multiple applications when the switch is needed to manually circumvent the ACR/VSR. It could be for AC shore charging when you want truly isolated battery banks. It could be on a very large audio system with a very large stereo battery bank after a long playtime at rest and as a result the functionality of the ACR/VSR has been exceeded and it won't combine. It could be during for a long weekend at a distant destination where you may be camping and have no access to AC shore power.
You can do many of the same functions with a rewiring of a conventional dual battery switch but the function won't match the switch nomenclature and that would be more than a pain.
A simple On/Off battery switch can facilitate one additional function but can't duplicate the multiple functions of a 5511e.
So there's my vote.

David
Earmark Marine

[jmvotto]

Ian is this the seletor you added to the ACR?

David, I assume this 4 position would work 1, 2, 1+2 and off

http://bluesea.com/products/6007 i believ this is what is installed with my 12 XLV with the pro mariner sport 20 charger.. i too would like the acr as i had the bepVSr in the old boat.


hijack over continue exile install thread

[ga-lsv05]

Are bow speakers not offered on the 2013 standard?

2005 mobius lsv 2900lbs ballast

[lewisb13]

Are bow speakers not offered on the 2013 standard?

2005 mobius lsv 2900lbs ballast


Bow speakers on the 13 are an option. Not standard.

[lewisb13]

Ian is this the seletor you added to the ACR?

David, I assume this 4 position would work 1, 2, 1+2 and off

http://bluesea.com/products/6007 i believ this is what is installed with my 12 XLV with the pro mariner sport 20 charger.. i too would like the acr as i had the bepVSr in the old boat.


hijack over continue exile install thread

That switch you see in Ian's picture is the stock dual battery switch that comes on the 13.

[wolfeman131]

Bow speakers on the 13 are an option. Not standard.

bow speakers haven't been standard for a couple of years.

[jmvotto]

That switch you see in Ian's picture is the stock dual battery switch that comes on the 13.

Yep thats the one , will it work with the onboard dual charger?, I guess I have to wait until Ian installes that piece :D

[ian ashton]

I gotta say, that green vinyl is a super cool color. Install is looking good Ian. Will be fun to see that boat on the water rocking loud. That's Chase's boat right?


Yup, Chases boat.

[ian ashton]

Do you happen to know the model number on those distribution blocks? I've been looking for a single input to a 4 output.

I think the package is in the boat still, I'll have to get back to you on that one.

[ian ashton]

Ian is this the seletor you added to the ACR?

David, I assume this 4 position would work 1, 2, 1+2 and off

http://bluesea.com/products/6007 i believ this is what is installed with my 12 XLV with the pro mariner sport 20 charger.. i too would like the acr as i had the bepVSr in the old boat.


hijack over continue exile install thread

I didn't add a switch at all; front the factory it came with a 2 position switch, so I left it in.

We don't charge with shore power, so I didn't see the need to change the switch.

[EarmarkMarine]

Ian is this the seletor you added to the ACR?

David, I assume this 4 position would work 1, 2, 1+2 and off

http://bluesea.com/products/6007 i believ this is what is installed with my 12 XLV with the pro mariner sport 20 charger.. i too would like the acr as i had the bepVSr in the old boat.


hijack over continue exile install thread

Post a schematic/drawing of how you see a conventional dual battery switch interfacing with an ACR/VSR. I'll look it over.

David
Earmark Marine

[rdlangston13]

So David, is there a difference in the Perko 2 battery switch that came in my boat and the blue seas 2 battery switch? I think I want to add a ACR this winter when I redo my stereo install and want to know if I need to buy a new switch


Sent from my iPhone newtys droid killer using Tapatalk

[jmvotto]

Post a schematic/drawing of how you see a conventional dual battery switch interfacing with an ACR/VSR. I'll look it over.

David
Earmark Marine
This is copied but wanted to know if the switch would work with the acr in a very similar diagram or doe i buy a new blue seas switch
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/mojobatteryswitch.jpg
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/MoombaStereoWiringv2_cr.png

[MLA]

Jmotto,

An ACR will work just fine when used in conjunction with a traditional 3-post 1/2/BOTH/OFF dual battery switch like the commonly used Perko brand or the Blue Sea 9001e.

The real advantage to the Blue Sea OFF/ON/Combine 4-post dual circuit plus 5511 over the traditional switch, is when there is an on-board charger in the scheme.

[MLA]

So David, is there a difference in the Perko 2 battery switch that came in my boat and the blue seas 2 battery switch? I think I want to add a ACR this winter when I redo my stereo install and want to know if I need to buy a new switch


Sent from my iPhone newtys droid killer using Tapatalk

If the upgrade includes a 2-bank on-board charger, then I would recommend going with the dual-circuit switch.

With one action, you can combine and isolate the loads from their source battery. Since the dual-circuit has 4 post, rather then 3, the ACR is isolated from the batteries when the switch is off, allowing the charger to properly charge and condition the battery banks. With the traditional 3-post switch, the ACR will end up combining the banks when the charger is on. This makes the batteries one large bank.

[EarmarkMarine]

David and Joe,
The switch in the photo is a conventional dual battery switch.
The dual circuit switch in the diagram is a 5511e.
The conventional dual battery switch in the above photo cannot be introduced into the above diagram as is.
So, post up a diagram of how you would wire a conventional dual battery switch in conjunction with an ACR/VSR.
There are several methods but the results are different. Again, draw it out to see.

David
Earmark Marine

[jmvotto]

David and Joe,
The switch in the photo is a conventional dual battery switch.
The dual circuit switch in the diagram is a 5511e.
The conventional dual battery switch in the above photo cannot be introduced into the above diagram as is.
So, post up a diagram of how you would wire a conventional dual battery switch in conjunction with an ACR/VSR.
There are several methods but the results are different. Again, draw it out to see.

David
Earmark Marine

I guess my question is this simple I think MLA answered it. No, get the combined switch

Can I use this switch BS 6007 ( factory dual battery issue) with an ACR and Dual pro mariner 20 on board charger( factory installed option)?

[EarmarkMarine]

The Blue Sea 6007 is a standard dual battery switch with 3 posts. It will not provide the same benefits as a dual circuit 5511e 4 post switch.
The 6007 switch when integrated with an ACR/VSR is an ackward match-up similar to what BEP Marine does. I don't like that scheme at all. The 6007 switch will not enable isolated AC shore charging. You can wire it in an unconventional method to achieve isolation but the switch nomenclature will not match the function and that is a poor option.
I strongly recommend the 5511e when you are using a shore charger. Keep it simple and benefit from ALL the functions that the 5511e & ACR/VSR will provide....not to mention an easier scheme to visualize in various circumstances.
There's shore charging.
There's long weekend boating/camping trips at another lake and no access to shore power.
There are countless other scenarios where the 5511e is friendly to understand and use. It's really all encompassing.

David
Earmark Marine

[MLA]

I guess my question is this simple I think MLA answered it. No, get the combined switch

Can I use this switch BS 6007 ( factory dual battery issue) with an ACR and Dual pro mariner 20 on board charger( factory installed option)?

The 6007M is also a 3-post switch like the 9001E, so they are electrically the same in terms of how they are configured and how they isolate and combine. When using an ACR and dual-bank charger, the ideal switch is the 5511, unless you devise and means to defeat the ACR's ground circuit when the engine is off and the charger is on. Its far less complicated and overall better functionally to swap to the 5511.

[EarmarkMarine]

Mike,
For several seasons we placed a switch on the ground of voltage sensing relays/solenoids to force isolation. We even used a relay and looped it through several circuits to automatically disconnect the ground while in the storage state, thereby eliminating the manual switch. An engineer (it's really hard to get a true engineer on the horn versus a service rep who knows next to nothing) and he ask us to discontinue that approach. I suspect that the reason is because microprocessors get confused when B+ is applied before ground which is why when you hard reset you always apply the ground first. Admittedly we did not have a problem, at least not that I am aware of. So I cannot say conclusively, not to do it. I'm just passing on what was shared with me. Since that time we have converted over to the 5511e switch when using ACR/VSRs.

David
Earmark Marine

[MLA]

Mike,
For several seasons we placed a switch on the ground of voltage sensing relays/solenoids to force isolation. We even used a relay and looped it through several circuits to automatically disconnect the ground while in the storage state, thereby eliminating the manual switch. An engineer (it's really hard to get a true engineer on the horn versus a service rep who knows next to nothing) and he ask us to discontinue that approach. I suspect that the reason is because microprocessors get confused when B+ is applied before ground which is why when you hard reset you always apply the ground first. Admittedly we did not have a problem, at least not that I am aware of. So I cannot say conclusively, not to do it. I'm just passing on what was shared with me. Since that time we have converted over to the 5511e switch when using ACR/VSRs.

David
Earmark Marine

Interesting. Here is how BS explains to do it. I guess they looked into it at some point and found it to be OK.

http://bluesea.com/files/resources/technical_briefs/tech_brief_solving_acr.pdf

trying to get it in a format that will allow me to post it here.

[MLA]

Ok, heres a Jpeg. I will admit that i did not know that this existed on the ACR's website till now. I, like David, saw no harm in interrupting the ground and have done it in the past. Just keep in mind that this is for the Blue Sea 7610, so other ACR/VSR's may see this mod differently.

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x101/chpthril/ACRInterupt.jpg

[jmvotto]

David and Mike,

thanks for the input and the degree of technicality that you guys bring. That is the route i will go.

[EarmarkMarine]

Until now I have not seen that technical brief either. It sure is exciting when learning something new! Thanks!
I'm not too keen about cutting the AC supply in case I have to warranty a charger. I can do something similar with a DC circuit whenever both the boat key is off and the stereo is off. However, if I am using an inverted AC inlet, which we routinely use, then we already have a built in junction for the relay tap without skinning a cord or adding additional parts.
Btw, it was SurePower that discouraged me from the ground wire interruption path but the engineer never gave me a concrete reason why not, so I had to speculate as to why.

David
Earmark Marine

[rca]

That's very cool MLA. Thanks for sharing that.

[ian ashton]

We made a lot of progress this weekend.

Got all of the wires ran from left to right, and mounted the ZLD;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/y7ydazah.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/utazaqyz.jpg

Mounted and wired the 1500.1, so we are ready to rock once I finish the box;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/3ynehagu.jpg

[ian ashton]

Finished wiring the 800.4 and Harpoon;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/dere9ade.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/u2ebynuj.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/ypa5ader.jpg

[ian ashton]

Finished distribution blocks;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/y2yvusys.jpg

Mounted and wired the XM9s;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/a8abyter.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/17/u6uha9up.jpg


I've got a lot of tweaking and tinkering to do, but all of the infrastructure is there and everything is working properly. Chase didn't want the amps to be on display, so I tucked them away, easy to access but out of sight and out of the way.

I think it looks pretty good, all like its supposed to be there. I might order some TechFlex to cover the wires, but that's an easy add later.

[ian ashton]

Another stroke of genius on my part; the factory Accessory switch in this boat is unused, so I am using that to turn the Harpoon on/off, which keeps with the factory appearing requirement.

Also, so far this thing ROCKS! The new 6.5s are a huge improvement from the previous model (going to have to make that upgrade for sure in my new boat). A few people from the marina came over to ask what kind of sub we had, because it "sounds good!" my response "The sub is actually sitting in the back of my jeep, we haven't unpacked it yet, that's just a few hundred watts through the cabin speakers!"

[moombadaze]

nice install, clean and simple.

How are the tower speakers for head clearance or are they off to the side enough to not matter?

Moomba on the left, Supra on the right---nice neighbors

[ian ashton]

There isn't really a good spot to mount them in this tower; Chase is like 6'2" and they seem to be OK, but of you drive like a Wally (standing) you definitely don't want them there. They can go higher if you move them toward the center, but I didn't like the way it looked.

[New Guy]

Love the coozies in the walk through!

[jmvotto]

Love the coozies in the walk through!

Saw that but they are empty.lol

Ian great install ....

Did you run the distro blocks from the factory bar or did you remove it?

[moombadaze]

do the towers overpower the music for the peeps inside the boat

[jmvotto]

Yes if you don't have a fader . With four nines on the harpoon they are so clear the inboats are down low when riding.

[mmandley]

do the towers overpower the music for the peeps inside the boat

The EXILE logo on the front comes off, and theres a switch in there. + - 3 db if i recall. If you hit it to the lower setting it will allow the speaker to essentually start its throw later so you dont kill the people in the back seat.

It also makes the speaker sound a little warmer to me, this was designed in for the towers that sit farther up in the boat.

[jmvotto]

Mike, would that be to the "-" setting and i could not tell when i played with them to standind in the rear of the boat.
I left them at the factory preset. maybe i nee to tone them down.

[mmandley]

Mike, would that be to the "-" setting and i could not tell when i played with them to standind in the rear of the boat.
I left them at the factory preset. maybe i nee to tone them down.

Yes, You cant really tell the difference unless you crank them up and hit the switch. It not a HUGE difference but a significant one. The XM7s have this as well but its inside the case if i recall.

[EarmarkMarine]

The EXILE logo on the front comes off, and theres a switch in there. + - 3 db if i recall. If you hit it to the lower setting it will allow the speaker to essentually start its throw later so you dont kill the people in the back seat.

It also makes the speaker sound a little warmer to me, this was designed in for the towers that sit farther up in the boat.

"...starts its throw later..." That is an interesting concept and I would like to know more about this. Any further description of what is being done here beyond a basic attentuation circuit would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

David

[Brianinpdx]

Ian - Looking good on the install. Let me know if you want some tuning help. I cant remember - is there a sub going into this boat also? I vaguely remember something about and XI12D. Maybe I got that mistaken with another boat. In any case, whatever tuning help you'd like. I'm "hear" for ya. haha!

-Brian
Exile Audio

[ian ashton]

Yep, starting on the box in a few minutes actually. Got whatever 12 you recommended and a Xi1500.1

I also think I've got Chase convinced to have the XM9's painted lime green :) Another one brought over to the dark side, errr well bright side I guess!

[ian ashton]

Got into the box building tonight.

Because I'm using a lot of the air space behind the "hump" I figured it would be easier to get the box in and mounted if I took that piece out. Much to my surprise it is only held in with 2 screws.

Fiberglass floor and hump removed;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/18/na8u9a9y.jpg

The box, before;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/18/utu7yhy2.jpg

During - inside coated with truck bed liner;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/18/6y5ezuzu.jpg

A mockup with the floor section;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/18/bubype3u.jpg

[ian ashton]

In the previous picture you can see what I'm going for, which is a 2.2 cubic foot ported box elevated off the floor, and butted up straight to the back of the hump, giving the appearance of the factory install, with better than free-air performance.

Got the hole cut;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/18/muguvegu.jpg

Outside coated;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/18/atyhe6y7.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/18/9udehame.jpg

I haven't decided in the placement of the port yet, as I need to mock it up in the boat to be certain where I want it; I think it will be on the right.

I'm veto-ing the factory carpet on the baffle and going to wrap it in either white or grey vinyl.

[lewisb13]

Dude that looks really sharp! What material did you use for the box?

[jmvotto]

Ian, great friggin install.

I got more exile gear coming, can I bring the xlv to Ian's custom audio and Led Paradise....

[ian ashton]

Dude that looks really sharp! What material did you use for the box?

Just plain old birch. Someone told me that the acoustic properties of Starboard aren't good (no idea if its true or not) so I use birch and then coat it with truck bed liner. This box is far off the floor so I didn't use any fiberglass.

[ian ashton]

Ian, great friggin install.

I got more exile gear coming, can I bring the xlv to Ian's custom audio and Led Paradise....

LOL! I can tell you one thing; it's way more fun spending someone else's money than my own!

[wolfeman131]

Because I'm using a lot of the air space behind the "hump" I figured it would be easier to get the box in and mounted if I took that piece out. Much to my surprise it is only held in with 2 screws.

Fiberglass floor and hump removed;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/18/na8u9a9y.jpg


Ah, ha! I see an easier route to installing an IBS than I took.

[EarmarkMarine]

Just plain old birch. Someone told me that the acoustic properties of Starboard aren't good (no idea if its true or not) so I use birch and then coat it with truck bed liner. This box is far off the floor so I didn't use any fiberglass.

The acoustic properties of KingStarboard would be of little concern next to the fact that KingStarboard is next to impossible to get a glued and sealed seam.

David

[ian ashton]

Maybe thats what I was thinking of, lol. I just know when I asked on here the answer was a resounding 'Don't use it for boxes!' :)

I'm fine with the coated birch. In my Outback, where the enclosure sits on top of carpet it has been fine for the last 2 seasons, although I have a ton of fiberglass resin and truck bed liner inside and out.

[moombadaze]

Ian, are you having the box sit flush on the floor in front of the hump of is elevated ?

[ian ashton]

Small calculation error; the box will be elevated ~5" above the floor, and progressing above the hump. The right side of the box will (be cut to) sit flush with that factory brace thing. Went to test fit this afternoon and can't get the box into position; trying to fit a square peg in a trapezoid hole, lol. Luckily as it stands the box is 2.5 cubic feet, where 2.2 is what is called for. Cutting the corner off should put me right where I want to be :)

[Brianinpdx]

Good Job Ian - this should put you right on the sweet spot. Remember on initial setup to turn off bass boost, and pay attention to the subsonic filtering on the Xi1500.1. You'll want to reconfirm those details when install. whats the vent length in this box?

-Brian
Exile Audio

[ian ashton]

There is no vent yet, but it will be 3.125 x 4 x 14

[ian ashton]

I made some more progress on the sub enclosure yesterday.

I chopped the side of the box off and gave it a test fit before sealing it up. I will have to re-route the factory wiring harness up the side (a simple zip-tie job) but all in all its an easy fit.
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16141&d=1348148597


Back in the garage, I sealed up the side, cut and installed the port, and put another several coats of truck bed liner;
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16140&d=1348148596

[EarmarkMarine]

Ian,
Did you lengthen the port accordingly after modifying the enclosure?

David

[jmvotto]

I made some more progress on the sub enclosure yesterday.

I chopped the side of the box off and gave it a test fit before sealing it up. I will have to re-route the factory wiring harness up the side (a simple zip-tie job) but all in all its an easy fit.
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16141&d=1348148597


Back in the garage, I sealed up the side, cut and installed the port, and put another several coats of truck bed liner;
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16140&d=1348148596


how about the sterring cable etc. i am interested on how you move the center hole conduit for wiring ballast and sterring cable


here is my pic
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0211-5.jpg

[ian ashton]

Ian,
Did you lengthen the port accordingly after modifying the enclosure?

David

The port didn't exist initially, lol. I actually previously had ~2.6ft^3, where the suggested is 2.2ft^3 with 14" long port. Cutting that corner off brings me to almost exactly 2.2ft^3, so I stuck with 14" in length, but its easy enough to play with, should the sound not be "right"

[ian ashton]

how about the sterring cable etc. i am interested on how you move the center hole conduit for wiring ballast and sterring cable


here is my pic
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0211-5.jpg

I didn't have to move the hole, because the box is ~7" off the floor. The steering cable goes up and to the right of the enclosure, while the wires go under and to the left. The only thing that is giving me fits is what looks like a Cat5 cable that doesn't have a disconnect, I suspect it is for the radio remote but I have to track it down and untie it from the harness. Shouldn't be too hard, I just didn't invest any time into it.

[jmvotto]

so the front facade is sitting 7 inches off the floor. got it.

got any pics of the back of that custom enclosure.

[lewisb13]

Did you go all the way back to the battery for the power to the amps or did you go through the switch so you can select which battery the stereo gets run on?

[ian ashton]

The factory switch is not capable of switching between battery 1, 2, and off. I ran the power directly to battery 2.

[KRAK]

Is the bed liner working good? How many coats are you up too? Is it the roll-on or the spray?


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[lewisb13]

The factory switch is not capable of switching between battery 1, 2, and off. I ran the power directly to battery 2.

What in the duece is the factory switch for then lol? I thought it had both positive battery terminals running to it, and it has one "output" terminal and depending on which battery you select (or both if you have it on 1+2), that would be the battery sending power to that "output" terminal. My thinking could be way off here, Im at work and boat is at home. Thanks for your replies.

[ian ashton]

This will be the first box I've done with just bedliner, so I'm not sure. It is the spray kind, and I've used 4 cans. The boat has ~35 hours on it and so far there has been absolutely no moisture in that area, so I'd imagine combined with the fact that its so far off the ground it won't be an issue.

[Brianinpdx]

Ian - 4 cans is plenty. The big help here is that you have elevated the base from the floor. This will eliminate moisture build up. In fact in my experience it doesn't need to be lifted up 7". Even 2-3" will improve moisture reduction. I would suggest to use birch plywood for the enclosure versus MDF as MDF tends to be like a sponge.

-Brian

[ian ashton]

7 is just where it ended up fitting the best around the wires through the floor and around the air box thing. Birch looks so nice too, one day maybe I'll stain a wood box instead of hiding it, lol.

[moombadaze]

Birch looks so nice too, one day maybe I'll stain a wood box instead of hiding it, lol.

need my address ?

[ian ashton]

Test fitting the sub and led ring in/on the enclosure;

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/23/abyqetav.jpg

[ian ashton]

The sub is in the boat!
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/25/se8ehe7y.jpg

Unfortunately I forgot to bring the "feet" for the box, zip ties, and long screws, so it's just kind of resting in place until tomorrow. Once it's in place I'll cut out a trim panel and cover it in white vinyl, and tuck/tie the wiring.

[wolfeman131]

You take care of the IBS while that front vent was easily accessible?

[ian ashton]

I forgot to reply to your pm! I'm not certain that we'll add any additional weight to the boat, but I guess anything is possible. The floor and box are super easy to pull out, so if we decide to go that route it shouldn't be too tough. I think the dealer is putting a heater in over winter, so all of this will have to come out anyway.

[ian ashton]

More progress on the sub - I got the box mounted into the boat last night, and put the grille on the woofer;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/26/putugedy.jpg

I have a bit of clean up to do on the wiring on both sides still, but ran out of daylight;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/26/3eqa9epe.jpg

A few shots of the LEDs in darker conditions; they are really bright;
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/26/8yvyzuju.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/26/hyderavu.jpg

[rdlangston13]

What did you use for the cup holder rings?


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[ian ashton]

Here is a post where I detailed how I made them. I have since gotten an actual router table to take a bit of the danger out of the process, lol.

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?17328-2012-Stereo-Re-Build...&p=174275#post174275

[lewisb13]

Where did you buy the actual LED strips from? Your post talks about speaker rings from a guy at the boat show and then the LEDs for the cupholders you mention are "spares you had laying around."

[ian ashton]

I bought 3528 SMD LEDs on eBay. There are about 38372847282 million sellers. I think they are ~$20 for 16'

[lewisb13]

Any worry at all about the sub pounding against the backside of the helm? Just curious about the longevity of the PP, and all the wiring after about 8 years of abuse lol. Im seriously considering mounting mine on the floor so the sound waves arent "running" into anything.

[bergermaister]

You know this is the ultimate set up for a mama joke... Make that 2. I'm resisting the urge, barely.

[lewisb13]

Lol yeahhhhh

[ian ashton]

It hasn't been an issue in my Outback. I'm sure none of us will own the same boat in 8 years, so I'm not too worried about it, lmao.

[jmvotto]

I am sure the lake waves pound plenty over the course of a boats life more than a sub unless you park more than you ride.

Berg how could you resist ...


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[mmandley]

Any worry at all about the sub pounding against the backside of the helm? Just curious about the longevity of the PP, and all the wiring after about 8 years of abuse lol. Im seriously considering mounting mine on the floor so the sound waves arent "running" into anything.

Im probably running the most powerfull 12inch sub/amp combo out there and after 2 seasons of cranking it as loud as it goes, nothing rattles, or came lose, or even changed. My guages all work like new, everything reads normal. Nothing vibrates or bounces.

Boat helms are build pretty strong.

I run a custom made 12inch Exile sub with 2500RMS power peaking well over 4K and never had an issue with the boat.

[rdlangston13]

That's crazy cause my 600 watt exile sub set up makes my speedo go crazy!


Then again I think my speedo is slightly jacked up, or the adjustment knob is. It I touch the knob to adjust it the speedo goes crazy. Like pegs out at 50 mph while I'm only going 20

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[mmandley]

That's crazy cause my 600 watt exile sub set up makes my speedo go crazy!


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Dont know what to tell ya Dave, pumping my sub at full volume to stuff that makes the water next to the boat ripple and jump doesnt make my speedo move at all. When driving its completly steady.

I watch my RPM more as my cruise is RPM based, and i use a GPS unit on my windshield to adjust exact speed.

[wolfeman131]

I run a custom made 12inch Exile sub with 2500RMS power peaking well over 4K and never had an issue with the boat.

But, does it go to 11?

[dusty2221]

Endless Power?

[mmandley]

But, does it go to 11?

On occasion it goes double that sir LOL

[jmvotto]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EbVKWCpNFhY

[mmandley]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EbVKWCpNFhY

Lol got me there

[wolfeman131]

Mandley, have you never seen Spinal Tap?


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[jpetty3023]

That junk was funny. I've never seen this spinal tap either. Gonna need some filling in


sent from my ipad2 via a wireless network which usually sucks

[jmvotto]

rent it on netflix, its a spoof on 80's hair bands, its funny.

[mmandley]

Ill have to look into that

[wolfeman131]

It would be a good way to kill some time in MT


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[EarmarkMarine]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoOzBnWTbbE

[mmandley]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoOzBnWTbbE

Thats cool that explains a lot better what Bill did when testing my amps in my boat and how they actually determined how much power is really going to my Sub.

When i had the 1500.1 it was 1800 RMS and peaking at 3600
Then we put the 2500.1 in and got the higher numbers respectivly. I dont recall the exact V reading but i want to say it was around 48V or something but it was a couple years ago when we did the testing exactly.

[EarmarkMarine]

We actually have the same method of testing as Mitch (in the video) although we have a power supply that is four times larger so the voltage will not sag when testing larger amplifiers. And, we are doing regular amp clinics where at designated times anyone can come in off the street and have their own amplifier tested. But you really need to have more than a DVM to do the testing. It also requires a distortion measurement tool, such as a distortion analyzer or an O-Scope. We have both. We like to stay with the CEA2006 standards (not WLS or JBF). Believe me, it can be very revealing. We have also had amplifiers sent off to an independent lab with 50K worth of test equipment and 3-phase supply, to confirm our findings. Like Mitch, we have begun showing the test results on products in the store as well as on the on-line store.
Consumers deserve to know the undistorted truth.

David
Earmark Marine

[mmandley]

Thats great a retailer goes through all that trouble for their customers.

I trust what the design engineer says about his products.

[dusty2221]

Pardon me for jumping in here, but I'm of the opposite mindset Mike.

A retailer has nothing to gain by exposing the true numbers. It's purely for the customer to make an educated decision. A design engineer has everything to gain by overstating the product. That test video David posted is a perfect example. Some "design engineer" told the Boss Marketing team "Yup, she cranks out 2k watts boys, slap it on the front." Without test like these to verify and prove what is true and false how could you have any clue what you are truly getting just going off of what you were told?

Even though you most likely won't, you have got to look at David's points and research as valid fact. You don't succeed with 25+ years in the business and rise to the top in a category based on crappy feedback and tests.

[MLA]

Anyone thats been around racing/racing engines, knows that an engine turns the most RPM right before she lets go. I think that probably holds true for an amp. We may see those peak "when lightning strikes" advertised watts, but I bet we will se the smoke get let out soon after. An amp will not last long running a real world load (impedance) that it takes to get those high outputs and we will never see those kinds of numbers if we run the amp where its comfortable.

[mmandley]

Im probably running the most powerfull 12inch sub/amp combo out there and after 2 seasons of cranking it as loud as it goes, nothing rattles, or came lose, or even changed. My guages all work like new, everything reads normal. Nothing vibrates or bounces.

Boat helms are build pretty strong.

I run a custom made 12inch Exile sub with 2500RMS power peaking well over 4K and never had an issue with the boat.

This is what i find laughable about this whole thread derailment.

The above statement is what started all this dicussion over the last couple pages of this thread.

I made the statement above, knowing..and wondering how long it would take for Earmark to come in and post something about amps power wattage valididty of it.

I did a classic bait the trap and wait.

The trap sprung so well it derailed the thread almost completly from what it was, which was an install thread of a stereo. No real care in power of amps or speakers or anything.

I frankly dont care if my Exile amp puts out 2500 watts, 3000 watts, or more. I also find it highly unlikly it doesnt put out that kind of power as i have seen it tested.

My comment about having one of the most powerfull 12 inch subs was or is no different then saying i think RDLanston boat is the best looking all blue boat in the country. Its an opinion, and as with so many threads on this forum dealing with anything stereo related you cant say anything unless its full of tech gargin, explicit facts and history to back it up.

The last real comment or request about this thread was can the sub being under the helm cause vibration damage to the instruments.

Once again the under lying tones of certain posts pointing fingers at what is true amp output and what is fake has stired the pot causing certain stereo people to jump into a thread and pull it away from its intended path.

The question bares how does anyone know what my amp puts out? How do you know what exactly my sub can handle?

The answer is you dont, because you havent tested my amp and my sub. I said there custom and they are, they were both designed exactly for the specification i use them for. This is also why when i sold my boat i paid to switch them to a different sub and amp. Because mine are both 1 off deals and if i sold them id be the one missing out.

[EarmarkMarine]

As Robert Duvall once said, "....matched perfect and staggered special....".....all the way from South Korea?

[sandm]

http://serve.mysmiley.net/party/party0029.gif

[KG's Supra24]

Dude wow. You baited and trapped?

The start of the thread derailment started from your amp specs, yes. Many consumers appreciate good comparisons, enthusiast here on the forum especially. Your continually exaggeration of product specs/attributes matched with the respect users here seem to have for you creates a whirlwind of frustration for those that want solid info on the site.

You were not baiting people, they were passively trying to get facts into the thread without calling you out directly .... They were trying to be respectful. You notice you are always the one up in arms?

How much power an amp puts out and which boat looks the best are not the same question. Don't be ridiculous. Power is measurable.


Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[moombadaze]

Ian, on Chase's LSV, how did you get the side speakers out inside the cabin, I undid the 4 screws for the rear drivers side and was unable to remove it. Did you remove anything else to get it out or was it just brute force ??

I stopped at that point to work on another project

thanks

[jpetty3023]

it's 520pm in Texas and yup, Oklahoma still sucks!!


sent from my home phone

[mmandley]

Yea i see your point KG.

Guess it doesnt matter to much to me right now when i think about it. Its not like a got a boat or a stereo any longer.

Maybe next season

[rdlangston13]

i think RDLanston boat is the best looking all blue boat in the country. \

awwww thanks mike!

[mmandley]

\

awwww thanks mike!

You know it bro.

[MLA]

Im just happy I was able to be apart of this successful experiment :D :cool:

[dusty2221]

It does feel good to know you were a part of something huh!?!

[jmvotto]

So i can tune my system with one of those Gizmos"

[EarmarkMarine]

Joe,
If you are asking if you can tune your system with a Digital Volt Meter, the answer is yes you can. You will also need a CD with a number of sine wave frequencies (as most Class D dedicated sub amplifiers have a limited HF bandwidth), plus a distortion analyzer or an ocilliscope. You will want to avoid pumping a 1kHz sine wave through a coaxial at full power (very different from dynamic music power) so you will find clipping without the speakers connected. But this exercise only establishes the maximum gain at which any amplifier can be safely set to. For gain balancing between between area speakers and highpass to lowpass speakers, you will have to finish the old fashion way by ear.

David
Earmark Marine

[jmvotto]

I have an old technics eq for home that has a pink noise generator with mic I could use right?


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[EarmarkMarine]

[QUOTE=jmvotto;197727]I have an old technics eq for home that has a pink noise generator with mic I could use right?

Joe
Yes and No.
While pink noise, mic and display are certainly useful in recognizing phase problems and taking a look at your response curve, you would really need a one/third octave RTA (approaching 30 increments) in order to be accurate. Otherwise many problems won't even show up. We use a 1/24th octave RTA and a high quality calibrated measurement mic.
Pink noise, an RTA and mic aren't going to work for finding your maximum unclipped power for each amplifier.
This requires a DVM, O-scope and sine wave source.
Your EQ/RTA can be useful afterwards.

David

[jmvotto]

thanks, I guess i wont dust that bad boy off in the spring then.

[lewisb13]

Did you guys use the stock hole locations to mount the clamps?

[wolfeman131]

Some have, some haven't. Most that have gone with 4 have used the predrilled Oz tower holes and then mounted the second set lower on the rear tube.


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[lewisb13]

Ah i forgot this tower has been around for a few years. Thanks for the reply wolf.

[wolfeman131]

No problem. Search for some Mojo stereo installs & you'll see a few examples.


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[ian ashton]

I couldn't figure out how to get the Exile clamps to work on the stock hole location, so I drilled another hole about 3" inside of the factory holes.