deerfield
04-29-2012, 08:41 PM
Added accent bezels to the two cup holders in bow and one cup holder located next to the rear facing passenger seat. In addition, replaced the stock cup holders on each end of the rear bench seat with lighted cup holders.
Rather than the mix, I would have preferred accent bezels on all five cup holders. But bezels on the rear cup holders would have added a half inch to their height, leaving not enough clearance when removing/replacing the rear bench seat.
Instead of tapping into and possibly messing up electrical circuits under the dash, I mounted a five-circuit dual bus terminal and ran power to it from the factory-installed bus. All five LEDs are powered from the dual bus. Added a low profile push button switch to the dash.
I toyed with the idea of powering the LEDs from speakers. Also, thought I could wire the LEDs in series. Either one would have saved me money on wire. Even though they only draw .65 amps each, experimented and discovered that the only way to make the LEDs work is to go direct to the battery and wire them in parallel.
It was an easy project, but took longer than I had planned. Made several trips to stores, getting ideas and prices. Then did experiments to find out what would work for powering the LEDs. The real work only took about three hours.
Turned out nice. LEDs are functional for times that we are on the water after sunset and add a little bling to my otherwise factory standard boat.
Parts list (not including LEDs):
• bus terminal, dual, five circuit (West Marine $17.99)
• tinned duplex wire, 52’, 14-gauge (West Marine $0.83 per foot))
• push button switch, w/ leads (Home Depot $4.98)
• in line fuse holder (West Marine $5.99)
• 5 amp automotive fuses, 3-pack (Radio Shack $2.19)
• ring tongue terminals, butt connectors, and quick disconnects (Radio Shack $10.36)
Rather than the mix, I would have preferred accent bezels on all five cup holders. But bezels on the rear cup holders would have added a half inch to their height, leaving not enough clearance when removing/replacing the rear bench seat.
Instead of tapping into and possibly messing up electrical circuits under the dash, I mounted a five-circuit dual bus terminal and ran power to it from the factory-installed bus. All five LEDs are powered from the dual bus. Added a low profile push button switch to the dash.
I toyed with the idea of powering the LEDs from speakers. Also, thought I could wire the LEDs in series. Either one would have saved me money on wire. Even though they only draw .65 amps each, experimented and discovered that the only way to make the LEDs work is to go direct to the battery and wire them in parallel.
It was an easy project, but took longer than I had planned. Made several trips to stores, getting ideas and prices. Then did experiments to find out what would work for powering the LEDs. The real work only took about three hours.
Turned out nice. LEDs are functional for times that we are on the water after sunset and add a little bling to my otherwise factory standard boat.
Parts list (not including LEDs):
• bus terminal, dual, five circuit (West Marine $17.99)
• tinned duplex wire, 52’, 14-gauge (West Marine $0.83 per foot))
• push button switch, w/ leads (Home Depot $4.98)
• in line fuse holder (West Marine $5.99)
• 5 amp automotive fuses, 3-pack (Radio Shack $2.19)
• ring tongue terminals, butt connectors, and quick disconnects (Radio Shack $10.36)