Help with Amp Wiring

[bzubke1]

Im getting ready to install the amps for tower speakers and subwoofer. I think i'm on the right track i"m just unsure of where to hook the power wire. The battery switch has 1 hooked to battery 1. 2 to the helm power and power wire from the engine. 1+2 is hooked to battery 2. I confirmed in the manual it is supposed to be this way. I'm confused. Any advise?

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k58/bzubke1/AmpSetup.png

[dusty2221]

Get your power from the dist. block from battery 2, as well as the ground. Bat 1 and two should be grounded together, but I think it is common practice to run the distro + and - from batt 2

[MLA]

The "Where" wire needs to go to the "C" post of the switch. This keeps the entire audio system sharing the same power source.

The main B+ to engine and helm BUSS needs to be hooked to the "C" post also.

BATT-2 needs to be hooked to the "2" post.

The loads will draw from what ever battery you have the switch turned to.

[EarmarkMarine]

Brandon,
All grounds are common including the dual batteries, helm ground buss, engine block and all audio electronics grounds.
Perko, Blue Sea or other standard dual battery switch:
Switch terminal #1 goes to battery #1.
Switch terminal #2 goes to battery #2.
Switch common/output post connects to the alternator/starter feed, the helm supply buss via a breaker and all audio electronics via a master breaker/fuse and distribution. You can stack three terminal lugs on this single common/output post.
Nothing besides the dual battery switch connects directly to the battery(s) positives. The only exception would be a bilge pump/float switch if applicable and the HU memory as optional.
The above is the only acceptable way.
Note, if we are adding an ACR/VSR this scheme would change substantially.
Btw, you can get a comprehensive schematic from Odin.

David
Earmark Marine

[bzubke1]

Below is the diagram of how it is hooked up. I knew the power from the distribution block needed to go to the common lug. I guess I just don't understand why it comes wired this way from the factory and it makes me hesitant to change it. The boat has a pro mariner prosport12 battery charger, where should I have the switch when I am charging the batteries?
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k58/bzubke1/batterywiring-1.jpg

[MLA]

If your charger is a dual-bank, the switch should be off when charging. This isolates the 2 battery banks so the batteries can be conditioned independently.

[bzubke1]

Thanks got the batteries all charged up now.

Both amps require 4 gauge power wire, what gauge wire should I use from the distribution block to the battery?

[MLA]

Thanks got the batteries all charged up now.

Both amps require 4 gauge power wire, what gauge wire should I use from the distribution block to the battery?

You'll probably find that 1/0ga with a 120-150A fuse or breaker is sufficient, but knowing what specific amps you have and the apx distance between the battery and the amp wall would make calculating it easier, rather then a guess.

[bzubke1]

This is the amp rack in the boat, so I'm thinking less than 2ft of wire from the switch to the distribution block and less than 2ft of wire to each amp. The amps will be a wetsounds syn4(800watts) and alpine mrp-m500(500 watts). I have noticed most of the distribution black that have two 4ga outputs have a single 1/0ga input.

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k58/bzubke1/21vamp1.jpg

[MLA]

The total combined fusing for those two amps is 135A. With that length of cable run, I would do 1/0ga and a 120A Marine rated manual-reset breaker or fuse.

A 1 1/0ga in x 2 4ga out non-fused distrobution block is very common and will be exactly what you need. A couple of these and you are set. If you think you may, at some point down the road, add another amp, then I would consider a 3 or 4 4ga out block. This would give you that extra open slot for another amp.

If you want to get a little fancy, then look at the Tsunami FBWM802. Its a 1 1/0ga in x 2 4ga out ANL Fused block with volt meter. Use this in place of the breaker or single fuse since your amps are so close to the battery switch. For the GND side, use the DB8012 non-fused block.

[bzubke1]

Well that little black box on the amp board is the stock amplifier, it sounds fine at low volumes but when I try to play at a decent volume it quickly distorts, so I'm going to go ahead and replace it right away. I am thinking about using the distribution block below for power and ground. For the power side, let's say the amp I get for the cabin speakers requires a 50A fuse bringing the combined total fusing up to 185, what size circuit breaker should I use? 150A?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18320_Monster-Cable-MPC-P300-CPS2-2.html

Thanks for all the help I really appreciate it.

[MLA]

Well that little black box on the amp board is the stock amplifier, it sounds fine at low volumes but when I try to play at a decent volume it quickly distorts, so I'm going to go ahead and replace it right away. I am thinking about using the distribution block below for power and ground. For the power side, let's say the amp I get for the cabin speakers requires a 50A fuse bringing the combined total fusing up to 185, what size circuit breaker should I use? 150A?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18320_Monster-Cable-MPC-P300-CPS2-2.html

Thanks for all the help I really appreciate it.

That Monster block is perfect. A 150A breaker is still below the load that the 1/0 ga cabling can carry, so thats what you want. These three amps playing at .75 volume would probably not pull more then 100A or so, so you've plenty of breaker to carry thier load, but not exceed the capacity of the 1/0 cable. Your short 4ga runs will also carry the load, IF a short where to ever occur.

[bzubke1]

Thanks, MLA! One more question, how important is it to have a marine circuit breaker? Those suckers are expensive compared to the automotive ones!

[MLA]

I prefer to use a marine rated C/B for a couple if reason, especially when the batteries are located at the stern of the boat in the engine bay/bilge area. 1) they are sealed and made with material suited for the humid environment, 2) they are ignition protected. 3) I like the manual-reset so it can be used as a master off switch for long storage.

In your case, you would be fine to use a quality amp fuse holder. Your batteries are located on the forward locker, not in the engine bay/bilge area.

[bzubke1]

So I could just use a fuse holder with a 150A fuse in place of the circuit breaker?

[MLA]

So I could just use a fuse holder with a 150A fuse in place of the circuit breaker?

That is correct. Both serve the same basic function of protecting the circuit.

[jmvotto]

Or just buy a distro block with the fuses in it. Cleaner look

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=Fused+digital+distribution+block&_sacat=See-All-Categories

[Cigars n scotch]

Speaking of distribution blocks. I need to purchase one but I have no idea what I need. I did some eBay and amazon searches and theres all different kinds. I don't want to buy the wrong one.

What info do you guys need from me to help me out? I looked at those in the search from eBay votto posted, just not sure of the differences in the brand/model.

[bzubke1]

I ended up going with a non fused distribution block and a fuse holder. It was just cheaper.

Cigars, I think we just need to know how many, and what amplifiers you will be installing.

[Cigars n scotch]

Ah, I have two.

Kicker zx200.4
Rockford Fosgate p500-2

[bzubke1]

The Kicker requires 8ga power and ground wires, the Rockford requires 4ga. Not sure what size power wire you would want to use from the battery/battery switch but I would think 2ga is big enough.. Something like this should get the job done. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42096_Stinger-SHD820.html

[MLA]

Ah, I have two.

Kicker zx200.4
Rockford Fosgate p500-2

CnS,

How many speakers do you have on the zx200.4 and is the p500/2?

Also, what is the distance from the battery to where you intend to mount a distro block?

Depending on a couple of factors, you have some options. You have trunk line and a main point of circuit protection right off the battery, then use a pair of non-fused blocks close to the amps to split off. Or, come right off the battery with a fused distrobution block, like what is linked above, the use a single non-fused block on the GND side. Or, use a fused/GND combo block.

[Cigars n scotch]

Thanks. It says it requires 2 midi style fuses. What amperage do I get? I have 100amp fuses on the RF AMP.

[Cigars n scotch]

Goodness MLA, you're speaking Chinese to me!

On the kicker I have 6 in cabins, and for the Rockford I have 2 WS Pro80s.

The battery is no more than a foot away.

Here's a picture of my observers seat compartment where everything is. The inside wall to the right of the battery is where the switch and distro block would go

14023

[bzubke1]

I believe you would get whatever size fuse the amplifier requires. That information should be in the manual for the amp.