*Kicker* Factory Stereo info

[E4NASH]

Curious as to what the specs are on the gear that I have in my boat. From what I can tell is that it has Audio Package C with 2 bow Speakers, a sub, and a 5 channel amp. the Amp is the Kicker ZXM700.5. I had this amp in my last boat and it did really well. I haven't gotten a chance to really listen to this system yet but am hoping to shortly, as in this weekend.

The previous owner installed Wet Sounds Pro60s on the tower. I magine they were running the towers and the sub off the Amp and the cabin speakers off of the radio as there is only one amp in the boat that I have found.

I want to do a minor upgrade to the stereo until I can go all Wet Sounds maybe next year or probably the year after. I thought about adding a ZXM450.2 or 350.4 for the towers and then running everything else off the 700 like my previous boat. I had the Polk DB 650 cabin speakers, KMT6's, and a Kicker Comp VT 12 under the helm. It sounded pretty good.

Is the factory sub the KM10? Is it any good? What model are the cabins? Are they any good? What is the general opinion of the factory sub? I've seen a few of you have taken the factory box out so I guess it's safe to assume that the box isn't very good. I wasn't too impressed when they turned it on at the dealer. I thought to myself well, this boat is much nicer than my old one but my old system sure is better...

I have the MB quart stereo in right now but I have ordered the Kenwood KMR-550U head unit and 2 KCA-107MR remotes. They should be here Friday. As soon as I can brave it enough to start cutting I will put those in.

Potential Future Stereo:
Wet Sounds XS65 x 6
Wet Sounds XS-12
Wet Sounds Syn 6
Wet Sounds Double Up System
Wet Sounds Syn 2
Wet Sounds WS420

*note* this list may change as time goes on. But If I had the cash to do this today this is what I would be putting in.

Thanks for the help!

-Nash

[MLA]

Other then the 2 in-boats in the bow, how many more in-boats do you have?

I think the OEM in-boats are either the KM6130 or the KM6200. I thnk they are basically the same speakers, just one is used for OEM. If there is a difference, I think its minor. Spec wise, they will sound fine on just head-unit power and I would not hesitate to feed them amplified power up to 75W.

The ZXM700.5 will easily power 4-6 in-boats with 210W available to a 4 ohm sub and 420W to a 2 ohm sub.

The KM10 is a very musical sub. Its a perfect match for the 210W from the ZXM700.5. Its a good sub to compliment 4-6 moderately powered in-boats. For those wanting more bass output would want to either add a 2nd KM10 or swap it for a 4 ohm DVC and take advantage of the available 420W.

Running the Pro60 bridged on the zxm700.5's full-range chnls = 165W to each. Decent power, but I think this amp is better suited to be used for the in-boats and sub. I think you are on the right track to consider the reconfigure.

I do not know what the specs are for the OEM sub enclosure. If any one know what the external dimensions are and the wall thickness, could you share? The enclosure and current amp settings will play a role in the overall sound and output. The in-boats will also be a huge improvement if they where amplified.

[E4NASH]

Other then the 2 in-boats in the bow, how many more in-boats do you have?

I think the OEM in-boats are either the KM6130 or the KM6200. I thnk they are basically the same speakers, just one is used for OEM. If there is a difference, I think its minor. Spec wise, they will sound fine on just head-unit power and I would not hesitate to feed them amplified power up to 75W.

The ZXM700.5 will easily power 4-6 in-boats with 210W available to a 4 ohm sub and 420W to a 2 ohm sub.

The KM10 is a very musical sub. Its a perfect match for the 210W from the ZXM700.5. Its a good sub to compliment 4-6 moderately powered in-boats. For those wanting more bass output would want to either add a 2nd KM10 or swap it for a 4 ohm DVC and take advantage of the available 420W.

Running the Pro60 bridged on the zxm700.5's full-range chnls = 165W to each. Decent power, but I think this amp is better suited to be used for the in-boats and sub. I think you are on the right track to consider the reconfigure.

I do not know what the specs are for the OEM sub enclosure. If any one know what the external dimensions are and the wall thickness, could you share? The enclosure and current amp settings will play a role in the overall sound and output. The in-boats will also be a huge improvement if they where amplified.

Thanks for the info...I have a total of 6 in boats. The Sub I had in my previous boat was a SVC 2 ohm (Comp VT12).
I'm pretty sure I know what I am going to do. Move the towers to a separate amp and then put the inboats on the 700. I just need to know about the factory sub enclosure to determine how to proceed with the sub options.

What would be the better option for the towers, the 350.2 or the 450.4? Or would a another amp be better.

[jpetty3023]

I went to my local stereo guy today in search of a sub. He had in stock the marine rated 10inch sub enclosed in a black box. I don't know dimensions or much else at this point except the box and sub is going to run me 110 and about 40 for install. I am taking the boat to him tomo and will take pics of this set up and try to get more info. It's marine rated an the box was a black plastic like material


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bzubke1]

@Jason, Are you getting an amp to power the sub as well?

[jpetty3023]

Yes, I have 2 kicker amps now. Factory one runs cabins and had second kicker installed when I did tower speakers. My guy said the amp I had installed with towers will be enough power to run the sub. Hoping he's right, trying to stay below pimp status on this. Wasn't going to do sub at all but well you know how things change and saved money goes into boat


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MLA]

Thanks for the info...I have a total of 6 in boats. The Sub I had in my previous boat was a SVC 2 ohm (Comp VT12).
I'm pretty sure I know what I am going to do. Move the towers to a separate amp and then put the inboats on the 700. I just need to know about the factory sub enclosure to determine how to proceed with the sub options.

What would be the better option for the towers, the 350.2 or the 450.4? Or would a another amp be better.

Yeah, you definitely need to rework the setup. That head-unit will not like running 6 in-boats if 2 of the pairs are wired in parallel on 2 of the head-unit chnls. If they are wired in series, then each is only receiving about 5W each.

Both the zx350.4 wired bridged into 2 chnl mode and the zx450.2 with one pro60 p/chnl will keep you at the same level of performance you are getting now with the Pro60 wired bridged on the zxm700.5.

[E4NASH]

Would it be best to leave the towers on the 5 channel with the sub and then put the 6 inboats on a 350.4?

I think I'm going to yank this sub and put a CVT 2ohm in there like I had previously. That sounded pretty good...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bzubke1]

Is the sub in an enclosure? I know in previous years it was just mounted to the floor hump under the hull.

[E4NASH]

Is the sub in an enclosure? I know in previous years it was just mounted to the floor hump under the hull.

It appears to be in an enclosure...I will have to look a little more to determine if it is separate from the hull.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bzubke1]

I would use the 5 channel for the cabin speakers and subwoofer and get a seperate amp for the tower speakers.

Couple amps that would power the pro60s well. Anything that will deliver 150 watts to each tower speaker would be a good choice.
http://store.earmarkcaraudio.com/Xcart/product.php?productid=17280&cat=0&page=1
http://store.earmarkcaraudio.com/Xcart/product.php?productid=17242&cat=330&page=1
http://store.earmarkcaraudio.com/Xcart/product.php?productid=17104&cat=0&page=3

[MLA]

Would it be best to leave the towers on the 5 channel with the sub and then put the 6 inboats on a 350.4?

I think I'm going to yank this sub and put a CVT 2ohm in there like I had previously. That sounded pretty good...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From a power standpoint, no. There is only a small difference in wattage delivered to each scenario. The reason I prefer to have the cabins paired with the sub is about zone separation and control. The zxm700.5 can be controlled with a single set of RCA cables into the "Amp-1" inputs. By running the head-unit's "Front" RCA source to the in-boat amp, then running the "Rear" RCA source the tower amp, you get the ability to fade the in-boat zone volume down, leaving the tower zone up for the rider. If your head-unit has a sub or non-fade output, then take these to the sub chnl inputs, then you have sub control with the amp's sub control knob.

[E4NASH]

Is the sub in an enclosure? I know in previous years it was just mounted to the floor hump under the hull.

You were right...it is the KM10 which is mounted free air in the kick panel (hump).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jpetty3023]

How is the KM10 when installed in a proper enclosure. I know it doesn't compare to exile and wet sounds stuff but for a budget system it's ok?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[E4NASH]

How is the KM10 when installed in a proper enclosure. I know it doesn't compare to exile and wet sounds stuff but for a budget system it's ok?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think it would sound better if it was in a sealed enclosure. It would also be better if I could get it to a 2ohm load and give it more power. It's not really bad it's just not as loud as I've had before. I still have some tweaking to do but I may shop around for some other free air options that I can get a 2ohm load out of. I'm going budget here until I can go bigger....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jpetty3023]

I'll have a pic of an enclosed box and will be able to listen to one hooked up here within the hour. Il throw a few pics of box up and try and get a short video to put up. Im trying not to spend much here either but figure it's time to put a little something something in her. Maybe one day I'll go big with a fancy stereo but right now this set up will do


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bzubke1]

Any sub is going to sound better in an enclosure, but you kind of have to work with what you have since you already have a 10" hole in the kick panel. Wetsounds makes a 10" free air sub.

http://www.wetsounds.com/pages/products/XS-10FA_spec.html

[MLA]

You were right...it is the KM10 which is mounted free air in the kick panel (hump).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Infinite-baffle is not the ideal setup for the KM-10. 2nd, IIRC, that wall is not a complete wall, which means we do not have true front to rear isolation. The KM-10 is a great marine sub when powered properly and in the appropriate enclosure. You would have a huge improvement in overall sound quality and output with that sub in an enclosure. At that point, it would be a fair comparison so step back and decide if it has the output you desire.

[MLA]

How is the KM10 when installed in a proper enclosure. I know it doesn't compare to exile and wet sounds stuff but for a budget system it's ok?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have to put it into context as well as compare apples to apples. Exile doesnt make a true marine sub and do not even offer a 10".

Both the Wet Sounds and Kicker are built from the ground up for the marine environment. The WS 10-FA" is a true infinite-baffle where as the KM-10 is best suited for an enclosure. The WS will handle slightly more power then Kicker KM-10. The Kicker KM-10 sounds very nice in a proper enclosure and not so good infinite-baffle. Just the opposite for the Wet Sounds FA subs.

[MLA]

Any sub is going to sound better in an enclosure, but you kind of have to work with what you have since you already have a 10" hole in the kick panel. Wetsounds makes a 10" free air sub.

http://www.wetsounds.com/pages/products/XS-10FA_spec.html

True, but they no longer offer DVC. All thier 10" subs are no offered only in a single 4 ohm coil configuration. So the output from the zxm700.5 would still be 210W rms.

[jpetty3023]

139241392513926Here's what I'm looking at. Not to hijack your thread Nash just figured since it was titled Kicker this was a good place to ask the question.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MLA]

139241392513926Here's what I'm looking at. Not to hijack your thread Nash just figured since it was titled Kicker this was a good place to ask the question.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thats the Kicker SKM-10. Same woofer as the OEM supplied KM-10, just comes pre-loaded in a waterproof poly enclosure. Its a great option if it fits into the desired space or for those that do not want to tackle building an enclosure. I like that with 200-250 watts rms.

[E4NASH]

139241392513926Here's what I'm looking at. Not to hijack your thread Nash just figured since it was titled Kicker this was a good place to ask the question.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, you're fine...by all means. That's the purpose of this thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jpetty3023]

13927Here's how she's gonna sit. I'm gonna have the install done. Less than 200 out the door so I can live with that. Thanks for yalls advice and encouragement that my kicker system will well.....you know not suck to bad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dusty2221]

Nice work! When you having it done?

[E4NASH]

I can deal with the sub setup currently...my immediate need is getting the right amp to run those Pro 60s and moving the cabins to the 700.5. I thought about going ahead and buying the Syn2 but that is just more than I want/can spend right now. Think I want to stay with Kicker so I guess its 450.2 which will deliver 150w RMS (4ohm stereo) x2. That is what WS recommends anyway. The 350.4 will deliver 175w RMS (4ohm mono) x2 but I don't think I can get that from 2 4ohm speakers and stay at the 4ohm load can I?

But yeah that WS Dual 4ohm sub would be perfect for what I want to do. Website says it is back ordered...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jpetty3023]

Gettin done as we type Dusty. @shop now and will be done after lunch


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bzubke1]

Either one of those amps would power the pro60's well. If they're the same price I would go with the 350.4 a little extra power is always nice. I wonder if there isn't a way to get some kind of enclosure integrated into the hump.

[E4NASH]

Either one of those amps would power the pro60's well. If they're the same price I would go with the 350.4 a little extra power is always nice. I wonder if there isn't a way to get some kind of enclosure integrated into the hump.

Won't that bring the impedance down to 2ohm per 'amp'? Specs say 4ohm mono x 2...I can get so confused on impedance sometimes.

I'm sure there is a way just no one has made one yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MLA]

I can deal with the sub setup currently...my immediate need is getting the right amp to run those Pro 60s and moving the cabins to the 700.5. I thought about going ahead and buying the Syn2 but that is just more than I want/can spend right now. Think I want to stay with Kicker so I guess its 450.2 which will deliver 150w RMS (4ohm stereo) x2. That is what WS recommends anyway. The 350.4 will deliver 175w RMS (4ohm mono) x2 but I don't think I can get that from 2 4ohm speakers and stay at the 4ohm load can I?

But yeah that WS Dual 4ohm sub would be perfect for what I want to do. Website says it is back ordered...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The speaker is the load, and its nominal 4 ohm impedance will not change. So yes, if you bridge your Pro60's on the zxm350.4, they will be receiving the 175W x 2 output. Thats roughly the same power they would be receiving when you place them on the Syn-2 along the the MB8's

Its my understanding that the dual voice coil 10" are being discontinued, thats probably why they show BO'd. If you want one, your best bet would be to find a dealer thats go one of the DVC's left in stock by chance.

[E4NASH]

The speaker is the load, and its nominal 4 ohm impedance will not change. So yes, if you bridge your Pro60's on the zxm350.4, they will be receiving the 175W x 2 output. Thats roughly the same power they would be receiving when you place them on the Syn-2 along the the MB8's

Its my understanding that the dual voice coil 10" are being discontinued, thats probably why they show BO'd. If you want one, your best bet would be to find a dealer thats go one of the DVC's left in stock by chance.

Awesome! That is exactly what I wanted to know...Thanks!

Yeah, I'm thinking that search will be a long process. I e-mailed Wetsounds maybe they can help.

[harmsway]

13927Here's how she's gonna sit. I'm gonna have the install done. Less than 200 out the door so I can live with that. Thanks for yalls advice and encouragement that my kicker system will well.....you know not suck to bad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jason,
If it is not to late you may want the installer to have the speaker fire towards the the foot rest. I installed the same sub a few weeks back and tried it in different locations and firing out and firing in at the foot well and it sounded much better firing towards the foot well. It was much louder, deeper and more musical. Just my opinion.

[jpetty3023]

Are you happy with the set up harms? I am a bit nervous about the way it's going to sound but glad to hear someone else here has the same sub. For time for a detailed/semi detailed write up. Calling the installer now to see where he's at!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[harmsway]

I was happy with the sub for what I had invested. It filled the low end void that I had with the factory speakers and it will vibrate the boat if wanted. Now I am sure there are much more expensive set ups that might create surf waves when the boat is sitting in the water, but isn't what I was looking to achieve. I powered with a Kicker ZX350.2 bridged.

Heres a pick of the sub box installed and I have to say it was a tight fit getting the box installed to the brackets
13933

[jpetty3023]

That's all I'm looking for to. I usually have my three kids with me so I'm not looking to win any bump comps. Just looking to fill a void and be a big boy one day


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jpetty3023]

So got it all hooked up and it sounds sweet IMO. Lot better than it did with just the towers and cabins.

I bought the boat and it had just 1 amp, battery, and cabin speakers. I have completed the stereo now by adding the towers, second battery/amp, and perko. Sounds a lot better than last summer!

Got a call from the installer and he said basically my HU sucked and he could not get it sounding right while tuning. He used a bunch of words that make no sense to me but it boiled down to him suggesting a new HU. I said if that makes the difference than lets do it, see ya in an hour. Got a new HU now to, a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X396. Don't know nothing about it except now the towers and cabins sound a lot better and I got a little bump. Oh yeah, the new HU back light color is orange so I'm stoked!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[wolfeman131]

Oh yeah, the new HU back light color is orange so I'm stoked!!

Must have been a discontinued model? :)

[E4NASH]

Either one of those amps would power the pro60's well. If they're the same price I would go with the 350.4 a little extra power is always nice. I wonder if there isn't a way to get some kind of enclosure integrated into the hump.

Did some more investigating tonight and my sub is in a sealed box and not mounted in the hump free air. So that gives me several more options.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bzubke1]

That's great news.