Note from Indmar - CHANGE YOUR OIL!

[wolfeman131]

The great folks at Indmar have done some fantastic work to debunk some of the "myths" around oil usage & consumption for our boats that get loaded with ballast for wakeboarding and surfing. We've had some good debates on this forum, so I hope this helps you out.

Bottom line is that if you load up with ballast to wakeboard or wakesurf, stay on the safe side by checking your oil level often and changing your oil & filter every 30 hours.


In the past few years we have noticed an increase in discussion related to oil consumption in engines that are used in high load activities, namely wakeboarding and surfing. Indmar has always believed engines used in low speed, high load activities can have a tendency to burn more oil than unloaded engines. Indmar now has the data to support it and a solution for our customers. We are supplying this information to you as a tool so you can inform and educate your customers on how they can better protect and properly service their engine especially if it is being used primarily under load.

The chart below depicts engine loads for a car, normal boat operation (no ballast), surf and wakeboard (full ballast). All of this data was derived from an LSA engine in a 24’ boat. The Wakeboard testing was performed using a highly ballasted boat with 5700 lbs. of ballast, a common configuration for events. Surf mode was tested using 2800 lbs. of ballast. The normal load curve was developed from boat testing with no ballast in the boat. The car data was taken from prior testing within the industry.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/indmargraph.png

As you can see the horsepower required for wakeboarding and surfing is infinitely higher in comparison to a car or even in normal boating operation. With our LSA test engine loaded we see that wakeboarding requires nearly 450 horsepower at 23 mph and surfing requires nearly 380 horsepower to push out 11 mph while the car requires a mere 75 horsepower to achieve 80+ mph.

During our *480 hour durability test we noticed that when engines under normal load (no ballast) reached 30-35 hours between oil changes they experienced greater oil consumption due to the breakdown of oil viscosity. Oil was changed every 50 hours per the owner’s manual and this was the findings and our collective takeaway:

*Engine also had appropriate break-in hours


After 30 hours – ½ qt. loss
35-38 hours -1 qt. loss
40-45 hours – 1.5 qt. loss

*Note With ballast added, the oil consumption could increase from the values listed above.

Oil viscosity breaks down much quicker in engines operating under greater loads, the most extreme during wakeboarding loads and speeds. With this information we are recommending that your service techs inform your customers that if they are operating their boats under these typical loads for wake sports they should change their oil every 30-35 hours. This will help reduce oil viscosity breakdown, increase engine life and minimize their concerns and experiences related to oil consumption. Boats that are predominantly used in normal boating or skiing conditions can maintain their 50 hour oil change regimen per the owner’s manual.

We hope that you found this research helpful and you continue to feel confident that Indmar will go the extra mile in maintaining that unique customer care and distinct customer service advantage. As always, we encourage any feedback to make us all stronger.

Team Indmar

[Greg C.]

Have there been comparisons done between conventional oils and synthetics? What is Indmar's stance on synthetic motor oil?

[wolfeman131]

Don't know that we have seen anything "official" in regards to a comparison. I do think we have had Larry from Indmar post that synthetic is OK after 100 hours.

[newty]

Good info. These results are almost exactly what I have found on a regular basis with my boat. I end up putting nearly 1 1/2 quarts in by the time I get to 50hrs. I will certainly be changing my oil more frequently from this point on.

Thanks for the post Wolfeman!

[mmandley]

I only run full synthetic and i personaly wont be changing my oil any more often then i do but i will check it each week now instead of once a month. All Gas engines burn a certain amount of oil and its not uncommon to see your car engine burn 1/2 qt to 1qt between oil changes. This is one reason they say always check your oil to maintain its level.

I will make sure to top off my oil, since i average about 50 hr per season i dont plan on changing the oil twice unless i see a problem with my oil, just top it off.

Good scale and good info, lets also remember that the scale is also a little off on the HP due to none of our boats make 400 hp and we all can go wake board speed, the props you run do help this factor and this is also a good reason to run the right prop for your application.

[wolfeman131]

Mike, did you wait until 100 hrs to switch over to the synthetic?

[sandm]

I didnt switch until 100 hrs in the boat. Interesting on the usage. I notice a bit of oil gone between changes, but my last evo had a 400 hp 4 cyl i drove hard and had no usage... Full synth from day one as per mitsu specs.

[rdlangston13]

I changed my oil after about 100 hours and only was low about 1 qrt running Ams oil full syn

[wolfeman131]

I think we will all see variances based on the activities we do and the weight we run. This test was done at extreme, competitive ballast weights. I don't know many that run, or need to run, that kind of weight for wakeboarding.

[mmandley]

Mike, did you wait until 100 hrs to switch over to the synthetic?

No i waited till 75hrs i did the normal 20hr change the first time, then ran her to 75hrs and that was the end of the first season. Sencond season i switched to Synthetic. I perfer to let the engine break in a bit before switching to Synthetics. I think i read somplace in cars you want to wait like 20K to allow it to fully break in.

Some start from day 1 and i havnt herd anything wrong with that, i just recall back in the 90s when synthetic was new to the market it said let your engine break in, and even then i think it used to say 50K but no way im waiting 50 lol. Generaly an engine breaks in around 5K sometimes up to 10K. I know on Claudia's Equinox <last new car i bought> at 5K her milage went up to 20 on the highway and at 10K it went up to 26 and stayed there. I waited another 10K just in case lol.

[maxpower220]

There are so many problems with the data provided that it would have been better for Indmar to give the specific data of oil lost and recommend more frequent oil changes.

Showing HP required and giving inaccurate reasons for oil breakdown make the point of oil lost less believable. So many people have questions about oil and oil issues that this isn't helpful.

Check your oil level prior to each ride, like the owner's manual says.

[Cigars n scotch]

Am I the only one that picked up on "5700 lbs of ballast, a normal load for events"?

With 5700 lbs of ballast your boat would sink.

[wolfeman131]

That is normal for the professional riders at the World Championship events

[Cigars n scotch]

Wow, I've never heard of 5700 lbs of ballast. I am def. going to ask my buddy about this since he mc's a lot of the tour events. I just thought that was a typo or something.

[Mikey]

After talking to Mike Brendella from Mb boats last year at our local boatshow he mentioned one of there team riders,often riding/surfing behind his boat loaded with 6k ponds of ballast. Combo of water and leadshot to achieve this.
Not recomended,but definetely the way some of the PRO's do it.

[bzubke1]

I've heard harley clifford runs 7000-8000 pounds in his boat. One competition I did was pulled by an x-star running 6k pounds. We ran half the summer with 1800 pounds and the second half we were running 2500 pounds and never had any oil consumption when we traded the boat in with 540 hours on it using rotella 15w-40. Has anyone read PCM's break in procedure? It is quite a bit different than indmar's and they are both chevy 350 blocks, wonder which one is better?
Break in procedure is on p.25 I would copy and paste it if I could but it's in a weird format that wont let me
http://pcmengines.com/ex-343/

[Cigars n scotch]

7-8k is just insane! Where the hell do they put it all! Well come to think of it, for 7-8k lbs of ballast they are probably riding behind 24 ft boats so there's more room. I'd just like to see a quick video clip of where it's all stored.

[Engine Nut]

That article was based on data from an LSA engine which is our supercharged small block engine. That engine uses Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5W30 oil as specified by General Motors. The data is consistent with what we see on conventional 5.7L and 6.0L engines that use conventional 15W40 oil.

[jmvotto]

7-8k is just insane! Where the hell do they put it all! Well come to think of it, for 7-8k lbs of ballast they are probably riding behind 24 ft boats so there's more room. I'd just like to see a quick video clip of where it's all stored.

Check out this thread
https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?16277-Got-Ballast

[loudsubz]

It would be interesting to see the results from a used oil analysis as well. I know some oils are very good (rotella t6) and used oil analysis over and over again have shown it provides protection even over Reccomend change intervals in cars, but it would be neat to see the comparison in boats. It would be a good factor to consider.

[RedMobuis]

I'm trying to change my oil in my 05 moomba mobius lsv. It has the 5.7l carb motor I believe. How many quarts Does it call for???? I check my Manuel must have overlooked it.

[wolfeman131]

I believe it's 5 qts.

[RedMobuis]

Thanks. I'll start with 5 then check.

[VA LSV]

5 qts including filter.

[Garn]

If you go with synthetic, what weight would you use?

Garn

[rdlangston13]

Same weight at non synthetic 15w40


Sent from my iPhone

[ddauer12]

i have a 98 moomba outback. which oil and filter do you recommend?

[Moomba2007]

Wow, I've never heard of 5700 lbs of ballast. I am def. going to ask my buddy about this since he mc's a lot of the tour events. I just thought that was a typo or something.

not to change the subject but isn't this well over the weight limit for the boat??

[MMPRES]

I think we will all see variances based on the activities we do and the weight we run. This test was done at extreme, competitive ballast weights. I don't know many that run, or need to run, that kind of weight for wakeboarding.

What exactly are your competitive weight settings?

[Lori Moomba]

What kind of oil does everyone use? Im using SAE 15W 40 in my 2005 Outback.

[crr1876]

I am planning to use shell rotella 15w40 since the pennzoil marine seems impossible to find lately.

[sivs1]

Pennzoil Marine is available from Amazon. I ordered it by the case and now my SA doesn't use it, so now I have extra.

[VA LSV]

Owners manual states Indmar recommends 15W-40 Pennzoil Marine but if not available use a 15W-40 oil with A.P.I. ratings SL/SJ/CI4/CH4/CG5 or equivalent. Most 15W-40 oils meet this requirement. Everyone has their opinion on which brand is better.

[5:00]

Same here. Can't source Pennzoil locally any more so switched to the Rotella also.
My son went with me to the auto parts store to get oil for my car. He was asking why there are so many different kinds and what's up with the purple oil? For a 15 year old it is probably the same thing as me looking for tampons for my wife. Don't ask questions just get the ones she says to get.

So I had the talk with him, about the oil anyway. I should have just stuck with "oil opinions are like @$$holes, everyone has one". It would have made things simpler.

[kaneboats]

Maxpower made a great point a while back in this same discussion. When was the last time you ever heard of anyone have an engine problem or failure due to the breakdown of the oil? You could probably run any modern oil in just about anything and be fine.

[996scott]

I agree completely. As long as you are using quality oil and changing it regularly you should be just fine. With that said, I have been using Rotella for a few years now.

[Pappy]

I am a new 2015 Moomba Mojo owner. I believe it has the Raptor 6.2L engine. If I read the Manual correctly, it recommends 5W-30 oil. But in reading this thread, it seems like most of you use 15W-40. Can anyone tell me why that is? Or did I misunderstand something? I appreciate your help.

[DOCDRS]

We use 15w40 as that what is needed in an Indmar GM motors. Mustbe different for the Fords

[moombahighrider]

I am a new 2015 Moomba Mojo owner. I believe it has the Raptor 6.2L engine. If I read the Manual correctly, it recommends 5W-30 oil. But in reading this thread, it seems like most of you use 15W-40. Can anyone tell me why that is? Or did I misunderstand something? I appreciate your help.

The raptor 6.2 is a new motor in the last few years. It does call for 5w30. 15w40 is for the previous motors.

[clark]

I saw on an Indmar manual online to use Mobil 1 oil. I see other places to use semi-synthetic. However Mobil 1 is full synthetic. I also don't understand why in some of the Raptor engines they use a screw on filter and some they use a cartridge filter. Trying to determine which oil to buy.

[clark]

I sent Indmar an email about the semi-synthetic vs full synthetic and received a response that semi-synthetic is the minimum requirement but full synthetic is just fine

[SorryCharlie]

So what are you getting Clark?

[c04rsx-sm]

So rotella 15w40 for 08lsv since can't find penzoil marine...?

Does rotella make a marine oil or will this work?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170711/3e0301ee2050785d9beabaae00497ecd.jpg

[kaneboats]

Look at the certifications on the bottle. I've been using the Rotella or Delo for years.

From older threads on this topic:
. . .
From the owners manual.

Indmar recommends 15W-40 Pennzoil Marine in their
engines. If not available, use a 15W40 motor oil with an
A.P.I. classification rating of SL/SJ/CI4/CH4/CG4 or
equivilent. Synthetic oils are not recommended until after
the engine has been run for 100 hours.
. . .
This is also on the Indmar web site.

http://www.indmar.com/About/ContactIndmar/faq.html#2.4

"Indmar recommends (and uses at our factory) Pennzoil Marine 15W40 Motor Oil. If Pennzoil 15W40 Marine Oil is not available in your area, we suggest using 20W40 or 20W50 oil meeting the API specification of SJ/CG4 or better.

Synthetic oil that meets our requirement of 15W40and API rating of SJ/CJ4 is acceptable to use after 100 hours or operation with the recommended (not synthetic) oil. The use of synthetic oil does not alter the requirement for oil changes at 50-hour intervals.

Older operator manuals, and other publications that are not regularly updated will not be revised to show this latest engine oil recommendation. Current operator manuals, and other service publications that receive regular updates will receive this revised recommendation the next time they are updated".

[Poison]

I've used the Rotella T 15W40 for years. Never bothered with the synthetic. This was what my dealer recommended.

I have not seen that last bit, however. I wonder why they would recommend going up to a 20w40 or 20w50 in lieu of Penzoil Marine?

BTW, I haven't seen Penzoil Marine (with the exception of 2 stroke) for sale in quite a while.

[MichiganMoomba]

Following


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[moombahighrider]

Rotella all the way.

[icemanftr]

Just switched at 250 hours to Delo 5w\40 full syn. Used delo 15w/40 dyno oil since new. See how it goes.

2013 LSV 330hp


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Poison]

Just switched at 250 hours to Delo 5w\40 full syn. Used delo 15w/40 dyno oil since new. See how it goes.

2013 LSV 330hp


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why did you go with 5w40? Are you running it in cold weather?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[icemanftr]

Why did you go with 5w40? Are you running it in cold weather?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Delo and Rotella don't have a 15w/40 in full syn. Too my understanding the first number is starting weight and second is running weight. At least what I've read from bob the oil guy.

Oil pressure is solid under load.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[oldsmobiledriver]

T4 is conventional oil, T5 is semi synthetic, and T6 is full synthetic. I switched at 400 hours to the Rotella T5 15/40 and change it every 100 hours and the black stone labs oil test shows all is good!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[VA LSV]

Been using T6 for years in my '05. Local Wal-Mart always it on the shelf. Main thing is change your oil!

[icemanftr]

Been using T6 for years in my '05. Local Wal-Mart always it on the shelf. Main thing is change your oil!

Yep I change at or before 50 hours religiously.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Thanatos96]

Im using SAE 15W 40 in my 2005 Outback. What kind of oil does everyone use?

[MJHSupra]

2007 Indmar and Rotella T4 SAE 15W 40
I keep it simple every 50 hrs.

[Kidder522]

^^^ Same with me. Rotella T4, every 50 hours and end of season.

[Glenwyatt]

FYI for those running T4: Shell has stated that Rotella T4 is not safe for catalytic converters. It’s a shame, I ran T4 in my 1993 Nautique for years and sold it with 958hours and it never missed a beat. I’m hesitant to run it in my Assult 340hp engine based on Shells warning. Thoughts?
Currently, I’m running Lucas marine 25W40 and just let it warm up a lot before pushing it based on the 25weight. I didn’t have very good luck finding 15w40 that met the Indmar requirements.

“Shell Rotella T is a line of heavy duty engine lubrication products produced by Royal Dutch Shell. The line includes engine oils, gear oils and coolants. The oil carries both the American Petroleum Institute (API) diesel "C" rating as well as the API gasoline engine "S" rating. Ratings differ based on the oil. Rotella oils like T3 15w-40 meets both the API CJ-4 and SM specifications, and may be used in both gasoline and diesel engines. However, it is formulated specifically for vehicles without catalytic converters, containing phosphorus levels beyond the 600-800ppm range.[1] Therefore, Rotella is not recommended for gasoline vehicles with catalytic converters due to the higher risk of damaging these emission controls.[2] Newer formulations of Rotella T6 however are API SM rated as safe for pre-2011 gasoline vehicles.”

[larry_arizona]

SN is what the raptors require.

But great points on having too much ZDDP will harm cats. It’s not really clogging but it makes the catalyst less effective.

All engines consume oil especially under loads, even worse on boosted engines.

The 400/450/460’s don’t need crazy amounts of ZDDP. The cam ramps are not that aggressive.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kidder522]

Ok. Am I assuming that it is just the 340 that it affects and not the 325 FI engine? Or is there a catalytic converters on the 325 engines?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Glenwyatt]

as far as I know there are no Cats on the 325hp engine of the same generation as my 2008 XLV. The 2008 340hp does have cats.

[Kidder522]

Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[petroaj]

Great thread. Thanks for the information! I run about 50 hrs a season, and definitely recommend checking oil before each use! Only once have I had to add oil mid-50-hr-run.

[Glenwyatt]

Started using royal purple full synthetic 15w40 and I went to a larger filter. The oil says it’s safe for cats so bonus. Doesn’t seem to burn oil like the Lucas marine oil I was running.

[thietkesanvuonviet]

Don't know that we have seen anything "official" in regards to a comparison. I do think we have had Larry from Indmar post that synthetic is OK after 100 hours.

[HFarr]

So when talking about the "running a ballast load" numbers I have seen people posting here; 5700 lbs, 7,000 lbs etc...are you talking about JUST extra ballast above the weight of the boat, or including the boat weight here? Excuding fuel and passengers, the Makai I have is 5,200 lbs dry weight, and can take on 4,000 lbs of water ballast. So if I am loaded, would I say I am running 9,200 lbs ballasted?

[HFarr]

And I have another question. The yellow load capacity limit warning label, located under or beside the drivers cockpit depending on your boat, generally has a limit on number of passengers OR weight. I take it to mean it's an either/0r type limit. That load is 2,500 lbs on my boat, and is generally in the 2,000 lb range on most. But if my boat can take on 4,000 lbs of ballast, how can the passenger load be limited to 2,500 lbs. Unless they are figuring it with you running the 4,000 lbs of ballast tanks full too. But then could I tell the DNR guy "Yeah man I know it says I can only have 2,500 lbs of people on here, and yes it's obvious the 18 people I have on here are all 200 plus lbs. But I don't have any water in my ballast, so I am safe. Don't give me a ticket." :rolleyes:

[larry_arizona]

The passenger weight capacity is over and above stock ballast. But if you add lead, it will take away from passenger capacity obviously.

Using your Makai numbers.

Boat 5200#
Stock ballast 4000#
Passenger capacity 2500#

Total mass is 11700#
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[daniel.mojo]

I have a mojo 14 with a new Indmar engine about 1 yr ago. Personally, I like the synthetic oil - 15W40 and change the oil after each 50 hours. Don't notice much "burning of the oil", sometimes need to top off but not very much. Mainly surfing.

2 questions:
1. Center ballast fills about 1/3 and then pumps water out. Only way to fill is under power, and this allows full tank to fill. This just started to happen, normally at rest all 3 tanks fill normally.
2. When I turn the boat to the left and the stern swings around, the boat kicks out water from the bilge only on starboard side. Any suggestions as to why??

[tpjsooner]

I’m about to do an oil change in my ‘15 Mojo. I was going to use the recommended 5W30 Synthetic Blend by Indmar. It’s a little tougher to find in a timely manner and more expensive than Ford Motorcraft SAE 5W30 Synthetic Blend. So, I am considering going with the latter. Is there a difference beyond the labeling and marketing? Thoughts? Suggestions? Concerns?

[Holdmybeer]

Theu might be 1000 different opinions on this. MOTORCRAFT is ford's brand. The Raptor is Ford's motor. I don't see a problem. Others might say different.

Truthfully, I use Schaeffer's oil 5w-30 which exceeds all the Ford and Indmar standards. Use a good filter that is more important. If you have an oil extractor it is a 15 minute job.

[larry_arizona]

Motorcraft semi syn is perfectly fine.

But do yourself a favor and go on Amazon and find M1, Castrol Edge or any other major brand full syn. All will cost far less than the Indmar labeled semi syn.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[larry_arizona]

The 5w30 oil you choose only needs to meet.

“Exceeds ILSAC GF-5 and API Resource Conserving SN performance standards”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tpjsooner]

Anyone ever try Kirkland / Warren Full Synthetic 5W-30.

API SP Approved

API SN Plus, SN, SM, SL and previous Meets Requirements

ILSAC GF-6A Approved

ILSAC GF-5, GF-4, GF-3, GF-2, GF-1 Meets Requirements

dexos1 Gen 2 Approved

Chrysler MS-6395 Meets Requirements

Ford WSS M2C946-B1, M2C946-A M2C929-A, M2C961-A Meets Requirements

Ford WSS M2C961-A1 Meets Requirements

GM 4718M, 6094M Meets Requirements

[KnoxMojo]

I have used the Motocraft and Kirkland's semi syn 5w30 for my last 2 boats and almost 1000 hours with no issues. It is what is recommended by Indmar. As Larry said, use a good high quality filter always.

[HFarr]

What filter do you suggest......and let the battle begin! LOL!

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

[KnoxMojo]

What filter do you suggest......and let the battle begin! LOL!

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

I use Indmar, Wix or Mann depending on if I buy online or in store. I am sure there are better, but these have never let me down.

[Mxmark4]

Motorcraft on mine. I used the motor craft oil this past time when I changed it too since there were 2 quarts already onboard the boat unopened. I dont believe all the hype on most oils anyhow. My mini burns any oil I put in it so theres proof right there that engines arent picky.

[MJHSupra]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220422/72a3a9ba5d5a7371ab66d7c22a26559d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MJHSupra]

Wix XP off Amazon for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MJHSupra]

Last few oil changes were Castrol Edge full syn from Amazon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tpjsooner]

I went with Kirkland Syn. And Mobile 1 extended protection filter. We’ll see how it goes.

[Bula]

I use Indmar, Wix or Mann depending on if I buy online or in store. I am sure there are better, but these have never let me down.

Motorcraft these days.

[Kidder522]

Hey guys.

Upgrade my 07 LSV to a 16 Craz with the raptor engine.

I have been reading this Thread and was wondering how the Kirkland full synthetic oil is?

Can you provide some feedback? Looking to change the oil next week

TIA.

Richard.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[j.mo]

Hey guys.

Upgrade my 07 LSV to a 16 Craz with the raptor engine.

I have been reading this Thread and was wondering how the Kirkland full synthetic oil is?

Can you provide some feedback? Looking to change the oil next week

TIA.

Richard.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Kirkland is manufactured by warren distribution. Same company who manufactures wal mart super tech.
There’s tons of information on it on bobistheoilguy.com

Personally, I think oil is too cheap, and too critical to cheap out on. Same goes for filters.
But they may not agree on BITOG. Wealth of knowledge over there, to check it out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dyrmz134]

Kirkland is manufactured by warren distribution. Same company who manufactures wal mart super tech.
There’s tons of information on it on bobistheoilguy.com

Personally, I think oil is too cheap, and too critical to cheap out on. Same goes for filters.
But they may not agree on BITOG. Wealth of knowledge over there, to check it out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm in the automotive service industry. You're right- you don't want Warren.

[Holdmybeer]

Motorcraft brand or better is not much different in price. I use Wix or Baldwin filters. Motorcraft I believe is Wix also jist branded for Ford. Napa gold does the same thing. Your 2016 is probably the cartridge style and not spin on. The cross is for a Volvo filter if trying ro pick this up at an auto parts store.

If you don't have an oil extractor, buy one before doing this job. It's a 1 time $80 hit but you won't ever change fluids (in anything) without it.

[GW@vineyardlake]

How do you like your Craz compared to LSV (I've been looking at Craz's as well)?

[Kidder522]

Thanks everyone.

I have been doing my oil changes for the past 10 years. Always used Shell Rotella For the LSV. But the new Craz uses semi synthetic.

Love the craz!! Much deeper and smoother. Also love the surf tabs!! Fill and go. Although I am tinkering with the wave right now to get the wash out of it.

Good to know about the Kirkland brand. I’ll looked at M1 or motocraft. I would think I have to go to the ford dealership to get.

First time winterizing so I am not 100% sure of what all to do. Taking it to MMS in Edmonton for the first winterization. Then hopefully over the winter I can get a check list together for winterizing the craz. We also have a heater which I am unsure of.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[KnoxMojo]

Thanks everyone.


Good to know about the Kirkland brand. I’ll looked at M1 or motocraft. I would think I have to go to the ford dealership to get.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Walmart carries Motocraft 5w30 semi.

[Kidder522]

Unfortunately in Canada they don’t. But they have M1, Castrol and Valvoline.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[996scott]

My dealer recommends Kendall so that is what i have used on my last 2 oil changes on my Craz.

[Kidder522]

Hey guys.

So in my research I found that Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic meets and exceeds all the standards in the owners manual. Secondly, Wix is the only filter out there when I cross referenced it. It is the spin on style. Part number is 51372. Comes in standard or XP. Assuming XP means extra performance? Paper vs silicone.
Can someone chime in on which one is preferred?

Thanks.

Richard.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[larry_arizona]

XP uses synthetic fiber material and is preferred.

Mobil1 literally changes their formulations every year.

Dexos 1 is not the greatest additive package, relatively low ZDDP and ash profiles, but dexos 1 is very friendly to cats, so it’s fine for the raptors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kidder522]

Thanks Larry.

Is there something better that you would recommend for oil. I will order the XP from Amazon tonight.

Getting the correct oil always makes me second guess myself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[larry_arizona]

Mobil 1 is still an excellent choice.

Any of the name brand synthetics are good choices, don’t over think it.

High ZDDP and ash are really only needed for high lift camshafts and the raptors have no concern there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kidder522]

Perfect. I will pick some up. Thank you for the advice!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JimLevin]

Got a question on the filter and refill process for a Raptor Indmar 6.2L 2019 Makai. For the cartridge oil filter type, when you guys put your new oil filter back in, do you pour some new oil into the oil filter canister before inserting the new oil filter? (I am not talking about a spin-on type filter, I mean specifically the cartridge (https://inboardonline.com/6-2l-raptor-by-indmar-oil-filter-cartridge-501022s/#product-description) type, similar to a Toyota sequoia.) I saw a video where a guy changed his oil and did this, poured in some oil to the canister before putting the new filter in and putting the top back on. I was under the impression the oil would just drain out of the filter canister back to the oil pan if you did this. I’ve already refilled the new oil to the top line of the dipstick and would not want to pour more oil into the filter canister, just to have it drain back to the oil pan and sump. Thoughts? AND where do yall place the new rubber o-ring, at the very base or on the last rib of the canister top? Note what I mean is, see how the white ring is in this photo of the canister top, located at the top ‘rib’ of the threads instead of at the very edge of the canister top https://inboardonline.com/501023-cap-oil-cartridge-ford-6-2l-5011023/ Asking b/c I always move it to the very top of the canister, am I wrong and the photo correct?

[KnoxMojo]

In over 8 years of having a raptor engine, never have done it like the older style spin on. These don't hold the oil like those did.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[JimLevin]

Thanks, thought so, first time I’d ever seen that done. I didn’t think they held the oil—if it did, when I opened the canister, it should have had oil in it. What is your thought on the new o-ring placement? Very top or last ring of canister top?

[KnoxMojo]

I'm not totally sure on the O ring, have just always put it back where it was from the factory. Can't remember where, sorry.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[larry_arizona]

The o ring groove in the photo is correct and it's a pita to get it out of that groove.

It's reusable a few times and not all filters come with a new one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[larry_arizona]

The o ring groove in the photo is correct and it's a pita to get it out of that groove.

It's reusable a few times and not all filters come with a new one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

General cartridge filter knowledge.

https://www.ecogard.com/cartridge-oil-filter-replacement-missteps/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[HFarr]

Good article!!

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

[larry_arizona]

Not a fan of the cartridge filters, ideally I would like a top mounted spin on filter.

They make conversion kits OR the earlier raptors has spin on filters, maybe can find the parts to change to spin on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Holdmybeer]

Not a fan of the cartridge filters, ideally I would like a top mounted spin on filter.

They make conversion kits OR the earlier raptors has spin on filters, maybe can find the parts to change to spin on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It would be awesome if my spin on was top mounted and not hanging. Makes a mess everytime hanging down.

[dyrmz134]

Automotive shop guy here:

If you have it in the wrong groove, it will be spraying oil within 30-90 seconds. 99% of canister filters-bottom groove, the groove above is part of the threads of the canister.



Got a question on the filter and refill process for a Raptor Indmar 6.2L 2019 Makai. For the cartridge oil filter type, when you guys put your new oil filter back in, do you pour some new oil into the oil filter canister before inserting the new oil filter? (I am not talking about a spin-on type filter, I mean specifically the cartridge (https://inboardonline.com/6-2l-raptor-by-indmar-oil-filter-cartridge-501022s/#product-description) type, similar to a Toyota sequoia.) I saw a video where a guy changed his oil and did this, poured in some oil to the canister before putting the new filter in and putting the top back on. I was under the impression the oil would just drain out of the filter canister back to the oil pan if you did this. I’ve already refilled the new oil to the top line of the dipstick and would not want to pour more oil into the filter canister, just to have it drain back to the oil pan and sump. Thoughts? AND where do yall place the new rubber o-ring, at the very base or on the last rib of the canister top? Note what I mean is, see how the white ring is in this photo of the canister top, located at the top ‘rib’ of the threads instead of at the very edge of the canister top https://inboardonline.com/501023-cap-oil-cartridge-ford-6-2l-5011023/ Asking b/c I always move it to the very top of the canister, am I wrong and the photo correct?

[JimLevin]

For clarity, this is what I am talking about, see photo. There is a groove at the very top edge/rim of the canister, I labeled it groove #2, then one just below that area, I labeled it groove #1. The photo has a white rubber o-ring in groove #1, that I am reading from everyone is in the correct placement location of the o-ring. Groove #2 is incorrect and not where the o-ring goes. correct? 30849

[Mxmark4]

It would be awesome if my spin on was top mounted and not hanging. Makes a mess everytime hanging down.

I use an empty gallon washer fluid jug I cut the top off of it and drop the filter into it. Catches the oil and no messy bilge. When I worked for Audicyears ago 1.8 turbos had a filter that would leak into the subframe if you didn't catch the filer in a jug of sorts. I had a special jug called my tear bucket because the wash guy's would constantly toss it out when they took oil filters out and I would whine and complain until I found it.

[larry_arizona]

For clarity, this is what I am talking about, see photo. There is a groove at the very top edge/rim of the canister, I labeled it groove #2, then one just below that area, I labeled it groove #1. The photo has a white rubber o-ring in groove #1, that I am reading from everyone is in the correct placement location of the o-ring. Groove #2 is incorrect and not where the o-ring goes. correct? 30849

Groove 1 is correct. Although, looking at the design, groove 2 likely would seal it as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JimLevin]

Ok thought so too after looking at the filter housing. (thanks for that edit! ;-) I was questioning myself deeply) If I recall, when I initially removed the cap, on the first oil change, the o-ring was in groove #2, at the very top of the housing.

And Yes, I agree, @Larry, great article post! Here's another: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yh_u_lxznX0&t=1s

[dyrmz134]

For clarity, this is what I am talking about, see photo. There is a groove at the very top edge/rim of the canister, I labeled it groove #2, then one just below that area, I labeled it groove #1. The photo has a white rubber o-ring in groove #1, that I am reading from everyone is in the correct placement location of the o-ring. Groove #2 is incorrect and not where the o-ring goes. correct? 30849

1 vote for groove #2.

[bilgi]

thank you broo.ç