2011 Mobius LSV died with 12 hours on it

[2011mobWA]

It saddens me to make this post as I am home 2 days early because my 2011 mobius died on the water. Hoping anyone has any ideas - taking it to dealer tuesday after the holiday :roll:

Basically we've got about 12 hours on brand new 2011 - had it out twice since winter, first time out ran like a champ. Yesterday we took it out on water - bout 70 degree day. Running just fine for about 45 minutes, we were cruising at about 6-7 MPH on perfectly flat water. Then boat just dies in gear, from that point on it never will turn over, checked all fuses could find, made sure kill switch wasn't tripped. Ended up getting towed in, in front of about 200 other boats...

Any thoughts?

[TL7]

Did you check the battery cable connections? Sounds like something came disconnected from your description. You said the kill switch was ok, so I'd look battery next. You may want to double check the kill switch though - look at it from the backside of the panel. Being a new boat, one of the wires could have jiggled loose, in effect "tripping" the kill switch. Just a thought. Whatever it is, I hope it's something simple and you get back on the water asap.

[Zoltar]

That sucks bad! My first boat had about 18 hrs on it and the fuel pump died. It was the Friday on a long weekend..... I know your pain....:cry:

[2011mobWA]

Doesnt appear to be a lack of power, stereo works, motor tries to turn but never catches.. I think the killswitch is working because when I pull the cord it wont even attempt to turn over - once i put it back it starts to try and turn again. We reset the battery cables while on water - took off and reattached. Still no luck

[rdlangston13]

so it crank but wont start? check spark. if you have spark then it is a fuel problem. its a brand new boat so i am going to assume that compression is not a cause. this is what warranties are for.

[2011mobWA]

One thing to note not sure if relevant. I run 2 batteries with 1/2 switch... Regardless if I am on 1,2 or all same behavior.

[Fred]

you might want to check to make sure the connections of the sensors on the engine are secure. that happened when my boat was at about 50 hours(it is now at almost 200 and running like a champ). its no big deal, just a minor little set back. but definitely check that before you take it to the dealer because they'll charge you a ridiculous fee to do just do a little soldering. or(not to be a downer but...) there could be a problem with the internal computer. that would be bad. very pricey. but i wish you good luck and i hope its minor.

[rdlangston13]

you might want to check to make sure the connections of the sensors on the engine are secure. that happened when my boat was at about 50 hours(it is now at almost 200 and running like a champ). its no big deal, just a minor little set back. but definitely check that before you take it to the dealer because they'll charge you a ridiculous fee to do just do a little soldering. or(not to be a downer but...) there could be a problem with the internal computer. that would be bad. very pricey. but i wish you good luck and i hope its minor.

seeing how his boat is a 2011 i would hope the dealer would not charge him anything...

[2011mobWA]

seeing how his boat is a 2011 i would hope the dealer would not charge him anything...

I was thinking the same thing :P

[TL7]

There is a master resettable fuse on the back (transom) side of your engine. I believe it's a 30 or 40 amp. Mine was faulty and would trip at will. After chasing this ghost of an issue for a LONG time, the fix was a $1 or less fuse. They swapped the resettable with a standard slow blow fuse, and no issues since.

This is probably not your problem, as mine would just trip killing the motor, guages, etc and then restart. It would always restart; as a matter of fact I'd never have to manually restart as it would just momentarily die, all gauges would "zero out", and then it would come back on resuming exactly where it was. What caused me to include this in this thread was you mentioned the stereo kept working. Mine did as well, all the accessory switches stayed hot. It was just the main power to the engine and gauges that would be interrupted.

Again I don't suspect this is your issue, but I figured I'd throw it out there simply because it took my dealer, Skier's Choice, and Indmar close to a year to figure this one out.

[csm]

You've probably already done this, but check the lanyard too.

[kaneboats]

Spark or fuel indeed. The lanyard is a great place to start. If it will turn over you don't have a battery issue. If it won't catch then (assuming compression) it has to be spark or fuel. Spark is easy to check. If it's fuel I'd be wondering if you put in fresh fuel on the date you had the failure. But, it ran for 45 min with no issues then wouldn't restart at all. This makes me suspect something in the electronics, not fuel. I'm betting it is something extremely simple such as others here have suggested.

[skiyaker]

"seeing how his boat is a 2011 i would hope the dealer would not charge him anything..."

rest assured, that if was the case, by the time we were done bashing him on the forums (causing Rick T to get involved), he would end up owing you money.

But I'm sure everything will turn out fine. Sorry you had such a sucky experience.

keep us posted!

X2- I wouldn't spend any time at all worrying about whether it's a major problem or minor problem or whatever-if you've checked the kill switch and made sure there's gas in the boat then I would just call the dealer and arrange to drop it off for service. That's the beauty of buying a boat with a warranty. Hopefully your dealer is close to your house. Mine works relentlessly this time of year to keep people on the water.

[Razzman]

I had the same thing happen on mine two years ago. I started looking around the engine bay and found out the main harness leading from the port side engine down under the floor had unplugged utself just enough where it wouldn't start. Plugged back in and it started right up.