Another Stereo Makeover

[cab13367]

I just finished a minor makeover to my stereo system consisting of the following:

Added third battery
Relocated subwoofer amp
Added power and ground distribution blocks
Added Stinger voltage display for stereo batteries
Added remote LED for ACR
Added in-dash aux input plug
Added iPhone4 mount at the helm
Added JL Audio 7.5V line driver with level control at helm for Exile Harpoon

So here is what it looked like before I got started. The Exile subwoofer amp was mounted to the fresh air chaise and the power and ground cables were connected directly to the stereo batt (it was a mid summer, quickie install); thermal circuit breakers were used on the power cables for the other two amps; negative cables went directly to the stereo battery.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/IMG_07592.jpg

So I took the two batteries out and installed a group 29 125AH battery under the port bow seat as shown. I chose this location because I did not want to lose any space in the cubby under the glove box as that is always packed full of backpacks, lunch coolers, etc. I also added a ground distribution block with 1/0 cable to the battery and 4 gauge to the amps.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_2585.jpg

Only about half of the battery is visible.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_25972.jpg

It clears the fiberglass lip by about 1/4".
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_2600.jpg

[cab13367]

I then installed a second group 29 125AH stereo battery and hooked it up in parallel with the one under the bow seat. I used 1/0 cable for the battery jumpers. I reinstalled the group 29 55AH starting battery and hooked everything back up. Note also that the sub amp is gone.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_25922.jpg

I replaced the thermal circuit breakers with an individually fused power distribution block. Again, I used 1/0 to the switch and 4 gauge to the amps. Note that only one cable is visible to the switch but there are 6 more cables attached to the switch but they come in from behind it so you can't see them.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_25942.jpg

I added this hidden 20A switch that I will use to take the starting battery off line from the on board charger. This is desirable when both batteries are significantly discharged so that all 20 amps from the charger can be directed to the stereo bank. Once the stereo bank is fully charged, I flip the switch on and the starting battery will get charged. Thanks to David from Earmark for this tip.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_2589.jpg

[cab13367]

Here is where the sub amp was moved to. This is just aft of the fresh air chaise. It's held on by two screws at the top that go into the rubrail backing strip. I will probably make a second amp rack at some point for the sub amp but this will do for now. The plug is for the on board charger.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_25952.jpg

Next, I installed a Stinger voltage display at the helm and hooked it up to the stereop batts so that I can keep an eye on how much juice they have left. I installed a toggle switch where the horn's push button reset used to be. Finally, I installed a remote LED that is connected to the ACR so I can monitor what the ACR is doing.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_26032.jpg

Closer shot of the Stinger voltmeter, the on/off toggle switch, and the green remote LED for the ACR.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_26052.jpg

Close up of the Stinger.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_2615.jpg

[cab13367]

Next I installed an aux input jack and a tower level control (actually controls the JL line driver) on the ignition switch panel. I also previously mounted the speedo adjust knob that used to be behind the dash panel. Finally, the sub level control and the Harpoon throttle box control knob were mounted under the dash in this same area.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_2602.jpg

I like having my iPhone4 at the helm to control the music selection direclty from it so I got a handlebar mount for it and attached it to the windshield support pole. I don't trust suction cup mounts so this seems to be a solid mounting solution.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_2610.jpg

Close up of handlebar mount. Can also be easily rotated to hold the iPhone in landscape mode. The cord both charges the iPhone and carries the audio signal. This is a much cleaner signal than going thru the 3.5mm headphone jack on the iPhone.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_2609.jpg

Here is the other end of the cable which actually has two parts - one plugs into the 12V port and the other to the aux input jack.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/3rd%20battery/IMG_2611.jpg

That's it! I feel like I am well set up now to manage my stereo batteries and keep an eye on the ACR to make sure that it's doing it's job. I also can have my iPhone at a convenient location rather than in the driver's cup holder where I had it all last summer. With 250AH on the stereo bank, I should have lots of play time when anchored in the swim cove.

Al

[moombadaze]

Al, in pic 2 are those hinges I see holding the amp board in place?

[bbuhtz]

Nice clean install, looks good!

[dusty2221]

looking good man.

[cab13367]

Al, in pic 2 are those hinges I see holding the amp board in place?

Yes. The amp rack is screwed to the rub rail backing strip on top and then secured by hinges at the bottom. I was going to use L brackets but since it's not at a 90 degree angle, I went with hinges. The rack is snug against the side of the boat so the hinges just prevent the bottom from sliding out. It's not invisible like some of the other more elaborate schemes others have devised but with the batteries in place, they are barely noticeable and were very easy to install.

[cab13367]

The stereo batteries are actually group 29, not 27. Could one of the mods please edit this on the first and second post as I can't seem to. Why is it that I cannot edit my first 3 posts? Thx.

[KG's Supra24]

Put the label maker to work!

Looks good, I like how you integrated all the switches you could into the dash for a factory look.

[jmvotto]

Al, awesome. always raising the bar

[moombadaze]

. Why is it that I cannot edit my first 3 posts? Thx.


Al, you can edit your posting for 15 minutes, changeing the ability to delete threads had the effect on the edit function

[moombadaze]

Al, I like the hinges-simple solution that I may copy when I redo my system this winter

[kaneboats]

Great stuff, Al. Looks like you are going to be in control and in style.

[bergermaister]

Schweeeeeeet! Very nice job Al.


The cord both charges the iPhone and carries the audio signal. This is a much cleaner signal than going thru the 3.5mm headphone jack on the iPhone.

Ok I'm curious about this plug/cord - looks like it splits off to a USB for charging and a mini plug for going into the aux - both on one one cord? I'm wanting to do the same with either my iPhone or an iPod nano and would like to skip the aux out and go the cleaner route. I still have to do aux-in on my deck but I like this setup for the helm - nice and clean, single cord.

[ian ashton]

Have you used this set-up with the engine running yet? I have a similar cord that I use to run video from my iPhone into the nav unit in my car - the issue I have is that when the car is running and I charge through USB I get terrible noise. The solution I found was to use the 110v charging block plugged into an inverter.

I like the looks of everything a lot, makes me think I might want to put my stereo volume knobs in the same spot - easier access than having them on the drivers right hand side where I initially planned to put them.

Wasn't there a member that had gotten 'blanks' of those panels, Hmmmmm, now I think I want one...

[mmandley]

Looks awesome Al nice work man.

[newty]

Looks great Al!

[brain_rinse]

Have you used this set-up with the engine running yet? I have a similar cord that I use to run video from my iPhone into the nav unit in my car - the issue I have is that when the car is running and I charge through USB I get terrible noise.
Same here.


Wasn't there a member that had gotten 'blanks' of those panels, Hmmmmm, now I think I want one...
Yep. The company contact information was on a sticker on the back of the panel on my boat. Realize that they are a manufacturing company that doesn't sell to individuals, but I found them to be very helpful and easy to work with. They needed me to order 5 at minimum and I had to get creative with creating a purchase order and how to pay them. It was worth it though.

[brain_rinse]

Great setup, Al! Very clean.

[ian ashton]

Same here.


Yep. The company contact information was on a sticker on the back of the panel on my boat. Realize that they are a manufacturing company that doesn't sell to individuals, but I found them to be very helpful and easy to work with. They needed me to order 5 at minimum and I had to get creative with creating a purchase order and how to pay them. It was worth it though.

What was the cost / unit? I'll have to reach out to them, thanks for the info!

[brain_rinse]

What was the cost / unit? I'll have to reach out to them, thanks for the info!
I don't remember exactly but I think around $25 each, plus freight.

[Razzman]

Great job Al, nice and clean!

What LED did you use to connect up for the ACR? I need to do the same.

[bergermaister]

Have you used this set-up with the engine running yet? I have a similar cord that I use to run video from my iPhone into the nav unit in my car - the issue I have is that when the car is running and I charge through USB I get terrible noise. The solution I found was to use the 110v charging block plugged into an inverter.

I just bought a cable off Buy.com - on the review a person said there was a buzz when the ipod/phone battery was full and it was still plugged in to charge. Said they unplugged the usb side for charging and it went away and worked perfectly.

Thanks again for the ideas Al!

[cab13367]

Thanks for the kind words guys.


Put the label maker to work!

Looks good, I like how you integrated all the switches you could into the dash for a factory look.

Yes, still have to make labels for the switch and the ACR LED.


Al, I like the hinges-simple solution that I may copy when I redo my system this winter

There are many installs on this forum that look way, way nicer than mine whereas I took the easy route. Tried to use as many of the existing panels as possible, keep things simple, and did not go through the trouble of hiding every last cable, etc. I honestly just don't have the time.


Schweeeeeeet! Very nice job Al.



Ok I'm curious about this plug/cord - looks like it splits off to a USB for charging and a mini plug for going into the aux - both on one one cord? I'm wanting to do the same with either my iPhone or an iPod nano and would like to skip the aux out and go the cleaner route. I still have to do aux-in on my deck but I like this setup for the helm - nice and clean, single cord.

That's right. Got it here. Thanks to Razzman for that tip.

http://www.brainydeal.us/Compact-Universal-Charger-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00499DZP0?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle



Have you used this set-up with the engine running yet? I have a similar cord that I use to run video from my iPhone into the nav unit in my car - the issue I have is that when the car is running and I charge through USB I get terrible noise. The solution I found was to use the 110v charging block plugged into an inverter.

I like the looks of everything a lot, makes me think I might want to put my stereo volume knobs in the same spot - easier access than having them on the drivers right hand side where I initially planned to put them.

I have not tried it with the engine running yet. However, I bought two of these cables and have been using the other one in my car all winter and I don't get any noise at all. It works perfectly.

I wish the Exile remote knobs could be panel mounted so I could have installed them on the ignition switch panel.


Great job Al, nice and clean!

What LED did you use to connect up for the ACR? I need to do the same.


Got it at Baxter Auto Parts for $7. Be sure to wire the positive of the LED to a 12v source and the neg to the LED terminal on the ACR. I did it the opposite initially.

[cab13367]

I like the looks of everything a lot, makes me think I might want to put my stereo volume knobs in the same spot - easier access than having them on the drivers right hand side where I initially planned to put them.

I put them there so that I can adjust them from the observer's seat when my son is driving, which is more and more often these days.

[ian ashton]

I put them there so that I can adjust them from the observer's seat when my son is driving, which is more and more often these days.

Exactly what I'm thinking, except this way I can control when my dad is driving, lol.



I wish the Exile remote knobs could be panel mounted so I could have installed them on the ignition switch panel.

If its anything like the Kicker units, you can pull the knob out of the casing and panel mount it, which is how I plan to do mine :)

[cab13367]

Exactly what I'm thinking, except this way I can control when my dad is driving, lol.

Now that's funny right there!


If its anything like the Kicker units, you can pull the knob out of the casing and panel mount it, which is how I plan to do mine :)

Seems like I looked at that and they were not set up to be panel mounted. I'll have to take a look again.

[ian ashton]

The Kicker knob, dissected:
https://forum.moomba.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7797&stc=1&d=1305681595

https://forum.moomba.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7798&stc=1&d=1305681595

[brain_rinse]

Good pics, Ian.

[2007 Outback V]

Nice work Al!

FYI, I did find that the nut that holds the line controllers when surface mounting rusted in one season. It is not too noticeable yet, but I am considering trying to find some SS nuts for a fix.

[cab13367]

The Kicker knob, dissected:


Thanks Ian. I didn't think about taking it apart. Will have to look into that.

[cab13367]

Nice work Al!

FYI, I did find that the nut that holds the line controllers when surface mounting rusted in one season. It is not too noticeable yet, but I am considering trying to find some SS nuts for a fix.

Thanks. I'll have to keep an eye on it. Might be hard to find those nuts in stainless.

[Razzman]

Al, I was just going over the wiring for the ACR as I'm hooking up starting isolation and the remote LED. Do you recall which poll on the ignition switch is only energized when cranking?

[cab13367]

Al, I was just going over the wiring for the ACR as I'm hooking up starting isolation and the remote LED. Do you recall which poll on the ignition switch is only energized when cranking?

Yes, it's the yellow wire with a red stripe.

[ian ashton]

Good deal - just save me some time with the multi-meter! I picked up the BlueSea add-a-battery setup with the switch and ACR from my local WestMarine on clearance for $95.

With the LED wired up does it illuminate only when the 2 batteries are combined for charging?

[cab13367]

Good deal - just save me some time with the multi-meter! I picked up the BlueSea add-a-battery setup with the switch and ACR from my local WestMarine on clearance for $95.

With the LED wired up does it illuminate only when the 2 batteries are combined for charging?

Nice! The LED lights up solid when the batteries are combined, and will blink if it is not combining due to an undervoltage situation (when one of your batteries is too depleted).

If you need any help with wiring it, please see my post below:

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread.php?t=14636

[davinci]

Al I just love this install, I'm curious as to where you exited the 120v plug from the pro sport 20 ??

[cab13367]

Al I just love this install, I'm curious as to where you exited the 120v plug from the pro sport 20 ??

Thanks Davinci. The plug is just hanging loose near the sub amp against the gunwale (see the first pic in post #3). ProMariner sells a nice piece that allows a plug in port to be flush mounted somewhere but I didn't see any huge benefit in it plus it requires drilling another big hole in the fiberglass. I just open the observer seat storage compartment door and the plug is right there on the left.

[Razzman]

Thanks Davinci. The plug is just hanging loose near the sub amp against the gunwale (see the first pic in post #3). ProMariner sells a nice piece that allows a plug in port to be flush mounted somewhere but I didn't see any huge benefit in it plus it requires drilling another big hole in the fiberglass. I just open the observer seat storage compartment door and the plug is right there on the left.

Al i was thinking about this as well. I know some put the receptacle in the rear locker but that won't work for me, covers always on. Others do as you do, that would work just fine. I also thought about putting it in the walkway wall or in the seat base under the observers seat. Don't know, not a big deal, I'll just do as you do for now probably.

On another note; the acr led wiring. One lead runs to the acr obviously and the other is shown to positive. Did you just run the other lead to a positive source under the dash or all the way back to the battery?

[cab13367]

Al i was thinking about this as well. I know some put the receptacle in the rear locker but that won't work for me, covers always on. Others do as you do, that would work just fine. I also thought about putting it in the walkway wall or in the seat base under the observers seat. Don't know, not a big deal, I'll just do as you do for now probably.

On another note; the acr led wiring. One lead runs to the acr obviously and the other is shown to positive. Did you just run the other lead to a positive source under the dash or all the way back to the battery?

Yeah, some people put it in the rear locker area so they can plug it in without having to climb in the boat. Newty installed his behind the observer door, in the upper left on the fiberglass. It looks good and can't be seen when the observer door is close.

On the LED, yes I just ran it to a positive under the dash, just tapped in to the pos wire that feeds all the dash switches. I'd run it back to the helm buss pos but as you now, with the Exile sub box in place, it's not easy to get to.

[dusty2221]

I had mine hanging like yours last season. This winter. I bought the plug you were talking about and installed it in the rear locker. My boat is always covered also, and it being in the rear locker actually does make it easier to plug and unplug as only 4 snaps have to be undone for the rear hatch to open. When it was in the cubby, I always had to unsnap all the way down one side, or unsnap at least half and "worm" under the cover to unplug it before leaving, or plug in when home if it were already covered. And I was against it in the rear locker last year...now I realize why people stick it back there!

[Razzman]

Yeah, some people put it in the rear locker area so they can plug it in without having to climb in the boat. Newty installed his behind the observer door, in the upper left on the fiberglass. It looks good and can't be seen when the observer door is close.

On the LED, yes I just ran it to a positive under the dash, just tapped in to the pos wire that feeds all the dash switches. I'd run it back to the helm buss pos but as you now, with the Exile sub box in place, it's not easy to get to.

I had the sub & box out so I piggy-backed onto another wire on the positive terminal block up behind the dash. And you are so right, with that sub box in place you are definately NOT getting in there! LOL!

[cab13367]

I had the sub & box out so I piggy-backed onto another wire on the positive terminal block up behind the dash. And you are so right, with that sub box in place you are definately NOT getting in there! LOL!

No Joke! It's also a pain to pull new wires from the ski locker to the helm with that box in place. So I finally got smart and left a weedeater wire in place to pull the NEXT wire that I have not thought of yet that I will need in the future! Every time I pull another wire thru, I also attach another piece of weedeater wire to it and leave it in place, ready for the next wire.

[Razzman]

No Joke! It's also a pain to pull new wires from the ski locker to the helm with that box in place. So I finally got smart and left a weedeater wire in place to pull the NEXT wire that I have not thought of yet that I will need in the future! Every time I pull another wire thru, I also attach another piece of weedeater wire to it and leave it in place, ready for the next wire.

Lol! i did the same thing with an old piece of speaker wire.

[cab13367]

I had mine hanging like yours last season. This winter. I bought the plug you were talking about and installed it in the rear locker. My boat is always covered also, and it being in the rear locker actually does make it easier to plug and unplug as only 4 snaps have to be undone for the rear hatch to open. When it was in the cubby, I always had to unsnap all the way down one side, or unsnap at least half and "worm" under the cover to unplug it before leaving, or plug in when home if it were already covered. And I was against it in the rear locker last year...now I realize why people stick it back there!

Dusty,

Yeah that makes a lot of sense for your situation. I think it's really situation dependent. My boat is stored in the garage with the cover off and the tower fully up and I have an extension cord plugged into the ceiling so it's very conveneint to just plug it in from inside the boat. I am already in there putting life jackets away, etc.

Al

[cab13367]

If its anything like the Kicker units, you can pull the knob out of the casing and panel mount it, which is how I plan to do mine :)

Well Ian, no such luck on the Exile units. I took mine apart and the Throttle Box knob cannot be removed from the housing. And the bass knob can be removed but the little circuit board sticks out too much so by the time you add the thickness of the panel, there would be any thread exposed to get the nut on the shaft. I think you can see what I mean from the pic below.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/a9cea683.jpg