New Stereo Install Help Please

[dusty2221]

Alright guys, here is what I am working with so far. I'm looking to make sure I have this right. 2 main questions:

1. Do I have the tower speakers (Krypt) wired correctly to the Jl G1300 Amp? The Krypt are 4 ohm each, but I need it to be a 2ohm at the amp so each gets 150 watts. I originally thought that I needed to wire them in Parallel a the Roswell bar, and make on connection per pair to the Jl. However, looking at the JL, it has 2 + and 2 - inputs and says above them "min. 2ohm" So, if wired as my pic shows, straight from speaker to amp vs linking speakers, is the amp converting to a 2ohm output, or 150 to each speaker?

2. For the 4 channel amp, where will i be best served tying the last 2 Polk's in?

Also, any input regarding the rest of the layout is welcome. The Tsunami Distribution block is a fused block which holds 1 60 amp per each + output. It also is the ground distribution block, so it's all in one. I'm a bit unsure of how the dvc sub should be wired as well, but think I have it done the best and safest way.

Thanks in advance.

[dusty2221]

Based on this
"You will notice that there are two “+” positive connections and two “–” negative connections. This is to facilitate multiple speaker wiring. The two positive and two negative connections are connected in parallel inside the amplifier. Connecting two speakers, each to one set of positive and negative terminals, will result in a parallel speaker connection. If only connecting one pair of speaker wires, it is not necessary to use both sets of connections."

From the JL Manual, I believe I have it right, the amp parallels each pair itself at the input, converting to 2ohm. Which means I will be running 4 pair of 12g wire up the tower vs two pair and making a parallel connection at the speakers. Right?

[KG's Supra24]

as far as in boat go, depending on the amp ... i would use 3 channels at wire them at a 2ohm load on the amp. When you get to the pair of speakers, wire them in parallel. This way you have all speakers hooked up to the amp and all pushing the same wattage.

[sandm]

Not having worked with any of the product involved, check the owners manual of the jl amps for the tower. if you are looking for a 2ohm load, you can run a pair of wires up to the roswell tower, then join them either series or parallel up inside the tower cans. that's what I did. I wired mine pos+pos and neg+neg to get a 3ohm load on my bullets, but did all the wiring inside the cans. much cleaner than 4 wires running up the tower. you should have wiring ran through the cans that you can pull out, again, using the string theory to feed the new wire. iirc, the holes in the cans are already big enough for a solid 12gauge wire to feed through it..

on the in-boat speakers, I ran my 4ch fosgate amp as follows: bow speakers ran to ch. 3-4 as a 4ohm load, one speaker to each channel. I ran the cabin speakers pos+pos and neg+neg, hooking up the 2 on the left side and the 2 on the rt side to ch. 1-2, presenting a 2ohm load to the amp.

[dusty2221]

Alright, So if I stick with the original plan, which was to make one run up the tower, (the 4 conductor 12g that KG linked to), then join inside the Roswell as shown, that creates a 2ohm...correct? What I drew is running 2 + and 2 -, then before the speaker, adding a connection to run to the other. Make sense?

And Kg, is this what you are referring to for cabins? Does 6 speakers running to the amp like this equal 2ohms per speaker?

Sorry for the silly paint drawings, but I am a visual learner, seeing it in text vs pic is night and day for me.

[sandm]

you are correct on the tower speakers. run the 4wire up the tower arm and once you are within the first can, split it off to the 4 speakers.

now on the 4ch kenwood amp, run ch. 3-4 with a single bow speaker on each channel.
run ch 1-2 with the 4 cabin speakers wired the same way as the tower speakers. that's what I would recommend. this will create a 4ohm load on 3-4 and 2ohm load on 1-2. you can use the gains to adjust the bow down just a little so they are more balanced.

[dusty2221]

Got it, thanks sandm. appreciate your advice. I updated my saved pic to what you said so i wont forget. lol

[KG's Supra24]

ok, just a general question. not trying to influence the outcome ..

why not run the bows off just the 3rd channel just like you did the cabins on channels 1 and 2. This would leave the 4th channel empty.

The reason i ask about it is because from most specs ive read on amps, you get more RMS from a 2ohm load at the amp opposed to the 4ohm load you have when you split the bow between channel 3 and 4.

Does that make sense? I'm just learning the ohm loads and how that works.

[dusty2221]

Does hooking up mulitple 2ohm loads to the amp lower the "overall" below 2, or how does that work? Like KG said, what is the advantage of running to all 4 like you suggested, as i drew in my last pic, or what he suggested in the 2nd pic?

[sandm]

I am sure one of the resident audio dudes will chime in on the 3ch issue. personally, I would not think it would be good for the amp to run 3 out of 4 channels, but maybe it doesn't matter. what that will do tho is completely ruin your bow soundstage, as you now only have 1 side of the left/right equation going to one area. take your home stereo and turn the balance all the way to one side and listen to the music you lose. music has a left/right, not one signal sent to both sides..

now onto ohms and load, I don't know what amp you are using, so lets take this one:
http://my.kenwood.com/Car_Entertainment/Power_Amplifiers/KAC-M645

it's going to deliver 40wpc to each front bow speaker. 40wpc into a 4ohm load=40 to each front speaker.
your rear shows 2=4ohms=2ohm load. amp is rated 60wpc into 2ohms, but each speaker is going to receive 30wpc, so your bow will be a little louder theoretically, but you also have 1-6.5 up front and 2-6.5's in the cabin=2x surface area producing music, so your cabin may end up perceived louder with less power and more drivers. that's part of the reason for gain adjustment.


any amp is rated 2ohm stable for each channel, so you can wire a 2ohm load to ch 1, 2ohm to channel 2 and so on. this would not make 1ohm across the entire amp, but 2ohm/channel.

[Razzman]

First of running the bows off of channel 3 and leaving the fourth empty is not advised, it will more than likely create an instability. Second, even if it did work you won't have any balance control that way and it will sound funny up front. Third, there's no benefit as you couldn't run anything off that one channel anyway. And yeah while it does increase rms it will be split between the two speakers, so again no benefit.

Wiring the four main cabin speakers in parallel to the two rear channels and the bow speakers off of the front two is the standard and accepted way to do it and will give you best results without issues.

So your running two of the JL G1300 amps for the towers? Parallel wiring two speakers together should give you a 2 ohm load on those as well.

As far as the subwoofer goes what is the rating on that? What is the amp rating for the sub? All that will determine how it's wired.

Also, with four amps shown, how many batteries are running to power the system?

[KG's Supra24]

I gotcha on the 3rd and 4th channel issue. I'm still learning some of this stuff.

I think Dusty is actually setting up a system similiar to the one i am, which pieces of this past summer.

I run 4 amps; 2 g1300 for towers, 1 for sub, 1 for in boat. I use 2 batteries. I was orginally thought i would need to run 3 batteries but was told 2 would be fine unless i went to part cove and wanted to play music ALL day long, which i dont.

Like i said im learning alot of this stuff as i go, but dont mono amps pull less current than a multi channel amp? I had the impression, after talking to earmark, that it was an efficient way to run the towers.

[Razzman]

Just my opinion but I would guess it all depends on who you talk to and the equipment you use, the power they consume and how you use your system. I installed an Exile Harpoon 1000w 2 channel for my tower speakers and along with the Kicker ZX700.5 i was running I also never drained my stereo battery and we are known to float a few hours at least on each outing.

Whether a mono amp draws less current i couldn't say but i would also think it depends on the power output of them too. The G1300 is rated 150w @ 4 and 300w @ 2 which isn't all that much in the scheme of things so yeah they probably don't draw as much juice as a large 4 or 5 channel amp. BUT i would also say that depends on the brand as well, some of the new gear out is quite efficient even in the larger amps.

[KG's Supra24]

I have read that amp quality can be a factor. I am going to end up running 2 of the JL's, an alpine, and stock kenwood. The stock Kenwood is the only one im concerned with quality wise (considering replacing with 6 channel jl). I just dont know alot about kenwood.

Dusty, it sounds like the wiring part is solved, with the exception of maybe the sub? Now its time to get working. :)

[jmvotto]

dusty, post of some install pics.did you get the v2 krypts?. with two jl it should sound great.

[cab13367]

Alright, So if I stick with the original plan, which was to make one run up the tower, (the 4 conductor 12g that KG linked to), then join inside the Roswell as shown, that creates a 2ohm...correct? What I drew is running 2 + and 2 -, then before the speaker, adding a connection to run to the other. Make sense?

And Kg, is this what you are referring to for cabins? Does 6 speakers running to the amp like this equal 2ohms per speaker?

Sorry for the silly paint drawings, but I am a visual learner, seeing it in text vs pic is night and day for me.

Dusty,

A better way to wire the speakers is to run the neg from the amp to the neg on speaker 1, the pos from the amp to the pos of speaker 2, then connect the negs of speakers 1 & 2 together, and the pos of speakers 1 & 2 together. This still presents a 2 ohm load to the amp, and you avoid all the splicing work making for a cleaner install and less signal loss. Below is a sketch (I'm not the Paint expert that you are :) )

This is also how you should wire your DVC sub. Just treat each voice coil like a separate speaker and wire it as shown in my little sketch.

This also applies to the in boat speakers where you are wiring two speakers per channel.

Also, below is a link that I found to be very informative and I think you will too.

http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Wiring.jpg

Hope that helps.

Al

[dusty2221]

As far as the subwoofer goes what is the rating on that? What is the amp rating for the sub? All that will determine how it's wired.

Also, with four amps shown, how many batteries are running to power the system?


Hey Razz, here are the ratings for the Sub amp I have, it is a Planet Audio AC1500:
Anarchy Series Monoblock Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
* 2 ohms: 1100 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output:
* 2 ohms: 1500 watts x 1 chan.

And as far as the sub, it is the Kicker CVR with these ratings:
10" CompVR Component Subwoofer
Power Handling:
* Peak: 800 watts
* RMS: 400 watts
Dual 4 ohm model

So based on that combination, what would the preferred method be?

As far as batteries, my boat just has the dual setup. During the day, we keep the perko set to both batts, and any extended period that we float I always switch to only the accessory battery.


dusty, post of some install pics.did you get the v2 krypts?. with two jl it should sound great.

Yes, the V2 will be the end result on the tower, with some polyfill and matt lining the bottoms of the cans.


Dusty,

A better way to wire the speakers is to run the neg from the amp to the neg on speaker 1, the pos from the amp to the pos of speaker 2, then connect the negs of speakers 1 & 2 together, and the pos of speakers 1 & 2 together. This still presents a 2 ohm load to the amp, and you avoid all the splicing work making for a cleaner install and less signal loss. Below is a sketch (I'm not the Paint expert that you are :) )

This is also how you should wire your DVC sub. Just treat each voice coil like a separate speaker and wire it as shown in my little sketch.

This also applies to the in boat speakers where you are wiring two speakers per channel.

Also, below is a link that I found to be very informative and I think you will too.

http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Wiring.jpg

Hope that helps.

Al

Thanks cab, the reason I was planning on running a dedicated wire to each + and - on the speakers is because I have 100ft of 12g 4 conductor speaker wire with an outer jacket covering all 4 lines. So, my plan, the wire has red, green, black, and white, was to just make one run which would include all the wires for both speakers. At the speaker, I planned to hook the red and black to one speaker, then the green and white to the other + and -, and back at the amp wire the two positives together and same with the grounds. So it still gets a 2ohm presence at the amp, but each speaker has it's "own" line all the way to the amp. make sense?



Thanks again for all the input guys, Im learning as I go, and this has turned in to a SERIOUS overhaul. EVERYTHING is being pulled out and being replaced with new equipment, wires, etc. Ill post some install pics once I get closer to being completed.....

Again, thanks for the feedback, and I'll continue to take the advice you guys can give!

[Razzman]

Here ya go Dusty, i was going to explain but a picture is worth a 1000 words right?! :p

[dusty2221]

You said it best brother! Thanks for the pic! I'm very visual, so you have no idea how much I appreciate it. So based on wiring it like that, which is not how it is currently wired, I will jsut need to "turn down" the amp as to not completely over power that sub. Correct?

I almost feel guilty posting all these Supra questions over here, but this seems to be still alive, Supra is dead lately!

[Razzman]

You said it best brother! Thanks for the pic! I'm very visual, so you have no idea how much I appreciate it. So based on wiring it like that, which is not how it is currently wired, I will jsut need to "turn down" the amp as to not completely over power that sub. Correct?

I almost feel guilty posting all these Supra questions over here, but this seems to be still alive, Supra is dead lately!

Yeah i'd definately turn down the gain. To be on the safe side i'd probably start around 40% and see what you get.

[cab13367]

Thanks cab, the reason I was planning on running a dedicated wire to each + and - on the speakers is because I have 100ft of 12g 4 conductor speaker wire with an outer jacket covering all 4 lines. So, my plan, the wire has red, green, black, and white, was to just make one run which would include all the wires for both speakers. At the speaker, I planned to hook the red and black to one speaker, then the green and white to the other + and -, and back at the amp wire the two positives together and same with the grounds. So it still gets a 2ohm presence at the amp, but each speaker has it's "own" line all the way to the amp. make sense?

Dusty,

Running a separate home run from each speaker to the amp (8 wires in all) is certainly the best way to do it, but you are going to have a hard time running 4 pairs of 12 gauge wire thru the tower, especially going around the pivot. But maybe that bundled 4 conductor cable has a lower profile than the traditional, two conductor 12 gauge wire. The way I show it, you would only need 4 home runs back to the amp for all 4 speakers, instead of 8, and you will accomplish the same thing. But either way, yes, the amp will see a 2 ohm load.

Al

[dusty2221]

Hey Al, I should have clarified, the tower will be ran your way, so that there are only two pair(which is one run of my coated cable) running up tower, but the in boats will have the way I described last.

[cab13367]

Hey Razz, here are the ratings for the Sub amp I have, it is a Planet Audio AC1500:
Anarchy Series Monoblock Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
* 2 ohms: 1100 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output:
* 2 ohms: 1500 watts x 1 chan.

And as far as the sub, it is the Kicker CVR with these ratings:
10" CompVR Component Subwoofer
Power Handling:
* Peak: 800 watts
* RMS: 400 watts
Dual 4 ohm model

So based on that combination, what would the preferred method be?


Dusty,

"Preferred" implies you have more than one option but with one amp and a dual voice coil 4 ohm sub, there really is only one option. And that is to wire the two voice coils in parralel as shown in my sketch as well as Razz's (Razz's is just much prettier :) ) which results in a 2 ohm load at the amp.

Al

[cab13367]

Hey Al, I should have clarified, the tower will be ran your way, so that there are only two pair(which is one run of my coated cable) running up tower, but the in boats will have the way I described last.

Gotcha. Sounds like you have it pretty well figured out then.

Let us know how it goes and be sure to post up some pics along the way.

Al

[KG's Supra24]

For the towers, unless we have changed plans?, we are just going to do 4 runs of wires (2 pairs) to the tower speakers so its easier to run and we dont have to drill out the tower holes any larger. We will split run parallel once in the tower cans.

My questions is this. can we just run the parallel through the speakers as in connecting the 2 + and the 2 - together from speaker to speaker or is it best to splice the wire into 2 pos and 2 neg? Im just thinking it would be cleaner if you could just make a short run of wire from one speaker to the other.

Kinda hard to explain, if that doesnt make sense I guess i'll have to draw a picture .. :P

[KG's Supra24]

Guess you can scratch my 1st paragraph .. ha, that happened quick.

[dusty2221]

I've got a ton of "build" pics so far, but I'm fiing to be stalled out for a couple weeks, so I'll hold off on posting

:)

[sandm]

kg,
I took the +/- and soldered that into 2 leads, one short one to the speaker in the can where the wires are joined, and one longer one to leapfrog to the next can/speaker. you can wire the lead coming up the leg directly to the speaker and then jump it off to the next one in the can. I don't think that either is preferred, just make sure you have good soldered joints and wrapped well from the elements and grounding..

as far as your runs, you only need a left +/- and right +/- up the leg. one set of speaker cables. don't run a pair for each speaker :)

keep us posted..

[cab13367]

For the towers, unless we have changed plans?, we are just going to do 4 runs of wires (2 pairs) to the tower speakers so its easier to run and we dont have to drill out the tower holes any larger. We will split run parallel once in the tower cans.

My questions is this. can we just run the parallel through the speakers as in connecting the 2 + and the 2 - together from speaker to speaker or is it best to splice the wire into 2 pos and 2 neg? Im just thinking it would be cleaner if you could just make a short run of wire from one speaker to the other.

Kinda hard to explain, if that doesnt make sense I guess i'll have to draw a picture .. :P

KG,

Yes, u can just connect one pos and neg pair from the amp to ur first speaker then connect the pos of speaker 1 to the pos of speaker 2, and the neg of speaker 1 to the neg of speaker 2. That works fine as well.

[KG's Supra24]

^ Awesome! That should make for a cleaner install as long as it puts the same ohm load on the amps and MAX wattage at speakers :)

Speaking of clean installs, ive seen previews of Dustys work to date. Could come out VERY clean ..... and the pressure builds :D ...

[dusty2221]

Could ????



You crazy.

[Razzman]

Guys remember something here, just because a speaker says it'll take a certain amount of power doesn't neccessarily mean it will! Start out conservatively, set the amps at 50% or so gain and work up. Not all speakers or amps will take or make what is claimed, or worse blowing or worse one right away!

Use a high quality cd or digital recording to dial in all settings. Ultimately you want a nice blend between cabin, tower and subwoofer speakers.

[mmandley]

Im with Raz and Cab on this but even still your forgetting 1 more aspect to Amps power outtage.

DISTORTION ratio

IDK if its 1000 watts at 2 ohm stable all dam day if its pushing 6% distortion it will blow any speaker rated to match it.

DISTORTION kills amps and speakers faster then anything.

Newty can contest to this. He is running non HLCD speakers on his tower and ran the rated power to them with a nice quality amp, they sounded good.

Then he thought for S**Ts and giggles lets up the power to be over rated for those same speakers with a better quality amp and then he was amazed as well as all of us at Exile last summer, his non HLCD speakers were freaking loud and clear more then 100Ft back.

Goes to prove if you push Quality Sound to a speaker it will exceeds its recomended power ratings, as well as Lower then Recomended power will blow a speaker when its Distorted.

[KG's Supra24]

Agree and noted with the above. However, i hope we havent been taken as a couple guys that went out and just randomly bought.

The only uncertainty as far as amp/speaker combo is dustys sub bc we dont know anything about it. It was installed in the boat when we picked it up. I ran the JL g1300s to bullet hollowpoint coaxials all last summer. I too was impressed what a coaxial could do bc i had no problem hearing them at wakeboarding distance. It actually made it a tough decision to upgrade to HLCD. I think the products we have choosen (although not exile or wetsound) are proven and should create a good setup.

Once again, thanks for all the help to date and im sure future help as im sure to run into more roadblocks. I just dont want yall to think we are just piecemealing crap together.

[newty]

Wow I'm late to the party... Again!

Dusty, with regards to the towers, the way you are going to try to wire those speakers will not work like you want.

If you're going to run two 4 ohm speakers to one bridgeable amp you can only wire it in 4ohm or 1 ohm. You will not be able to get 2 ohms with that configuration.

If you run the two speakers in parallel that will give you a 2 ohm load but as soon as you bridge the amp it will drop the load in half again giving you a 1 ohm load. Make sense?

If you run it in series, you're speakers will have an 8 ohm load then you bridge the amp which drops the load in half again will put you at 4ohms.

You either need an amp that is 1 ohm stable or a much larger 2 channel amp to run all 4 speakers. Realistically you should run 1 speaker bridged to each amp to get the load you need.
Are those amps 1 ohm stable?

Here is another link to help you understand how series and parallel work.

http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/spkr_wiring.html

[newty]

SHAT!

Nevermind, I just realized those amps were mono AB amps!
Disregard the previous post.

As you were.:p

[KG's Supra24]

I think you missed the 2nd amp Newty. We will be running 2 jl's, each at 2 ohm. One JL @ 2 ohms to run a pair of 4 ohm HLCDs and another JL @ 2 ohms to run a pair of 4 ohm HLCDS.

2 amps, 4 speakers. Wired in parallel to get 150 to each speaker.

[KG's Supra24]

SHAT!

Disregard the previous post.
As you were:p

hahaha

[newty]

All that friggin typing for nothing. I was under the assumption those amps were bridgable 2 channel amps.
Those mono amps should power up those towers nicely.

As far as the kicker dvc sub, those are good subs. You will be a little overpowered but thats better than underpowered.

What kind of enclosure you guys doing?

[KG's Supra24]

One that fits the bill. Ha. We are both coming from oversized ported boxes. (pro box and a virtual technology box). I used mine in the floor below the driver last year and its just not going to make it another year. I want all my legroom back. Hoping to find a pretty well built sealed box and put some sort of facia around it.

Anyone used a "truck box" style before? After doing some measurements thats the only way to save alot of room. I'd only be giving up 6" of legroom (mounting it off the floor) which is what im hoping for. If we cant find a box, we have discussed building a facia and building a box onto it that fits the required dimensions (want .85 to 1.0 cu sq ft). Buying one and building facia just seems a lot easier.

I have talked to both Brian and David about boxes. However, our end goal as been to put together a quality BUDGET system. Therefore, if we dont have to drop $$$ for a sub box, we dont really want to.

[Razzman]

The problem with pre-made boxes is almost all are mdf and even coated won't last as long as a well thought out home built of birch plywood or mdf and sealing with resin and bedliner in/out. I'd go birch ply and make your own custom box to fit your space.

[dusty2221]

That is most likely what will be done. The racks I'm working on right now are all birch ply and coated with rubberized undercoating.

After what I have going on with the amp rack, a sub box solution should be a walk in the park.


Should....lol

[newty]

KG doesn't the 24 have a false panel under the dash with a huge amount of room behind it? From what I can remember you could almost park a VW in there.

[KG's Supra24]

It would have a huge area if i didn't have the heater. Heater block/unit (for lack of better words) and the hoses sit right behind the hump. Other than its pretty open, aside from a big group of wires that run through there.

[dusty2221]

Yeah, the Hot tubes stick out right in the wrong spot, then the heter gets in the way right on the other side of those...

We have a few ideas for what to build, but that is phase 2. Right now, getting the amp racks done is priority.

[mapleleaf]

Any chance of that thumbnail from the first page getting emailed out???? Its gonna take me hours to comprehend all the info in this thread.....Also a very visual learner.....
thx....
[email protected]

[sandm]

It would have a huge area if i didn't have the heater. Heater block/unit (for lack of better words) and the hoses sit right behind the hump. Other than its pretty open, aside from a big group of wires that run through there.

cut that hump out. it's easy to do, very messy, but frees up a ton of room for a box.. it's kind of scary to do at first, but the room you gain will allow for a huge box of any variety with almost no loss of legroom. think mine for a jl 12 lost a total of 3 inches of legroom..

[newty]

Extend the hoses and move the heater. I did it in mine and it gave me a ton of room. The mounting brackes are all adjustable and can be mounted in all different directions. There should be plenty of wire in the harness. It can't hurt.

[dusty2221]

Ill check possible options before making any final designs for the sub. Measure twice, cut once...

[dusty2221]

Any chance of that thumbnail from the first page getting emailed out???? Its gonna take me hours to comprehend all the info in this thread.....Also a very visual learner.....
thx....
[email protected]

Maple, you talking about my paint pictures? I can send you all of them in a little bit. I believe the very last one is updated and reflects all the above given here. Lemme know!

[mapleleaf]

ya, ya the last one, so much easier for me to the plan the new stereo ( eer upgraded one) next year. Gotta switch amps and poss. location, maybe a tower, etc, etc....

[KG's Supra24]

Sandm, ive seen your build and that took ALOT of cohonas (however you spell it, you know what im talking about). I applaud you for that performance and it looks great!! Not for me, though, I'm too much of a sissy.

Newty, this may be a solution. Need to get in there and really check it out.

Dusty, I'm laying down the rules right here, out in the open for everyone to read (and dont take this as a challenge) ... We ARE NOT cutting out the hump. My wife will cut off my head or worse!! I'm open to moving the heater. End of discussion. There is still a lot of other work to be done.

Plus if we are taking that hump out, we should have taken the hump out in the cubby as well. What is the purpose of the humps? Lovely lady lumps?

[dusty2221]

Don't you worry your sweet little head.

:)

[sandm]

We ARE NOT cutting out the hump. Lovely lady lumps?

come on now... nothing wrong with a little "hump job" :p :p

[dusty2221]

Just adding this pic to reflect all the wiring advice given, since I did one for each along the way for future people that discover this thread and are visual like myself.

And Maple, email is sent!

[sandm]

hold on.....

on the 2 jl amps, the top one has the pos on the bottom and the bottom amp has the pos on the top. did you wire them out of phase for a reason?? :) :)

[dusty2221]

Lol, dont over analyze the locations of the terminals. haha.

Dont make me draw another picture.....

[Razzman]

Looks good.

However i see one glaring omission here, that is unless it's just not shown. Where's your battery maintainer or onboard charging system? With a large multi amp / multi battery system you should have something like the Blue Sea 7650 ACR (like i have) or an onboard charger (like the Guest unit cab13367 uses / Al has both actually) to keep them maintained or you'll run them down.

[dusty2221]

Its not shown. I have the VSR Voltage Regulator Relay and battery selector, as well as the Pro Mariner Pro Sport 12.

:)

[KG's Supra24]

Guess your going to have to come up with another dazzler for the installation. Razz just blew that one. :p

[sandm]

alright dusty, no paint pic, it doesn't exist :)

[bzubke1]

Hey KG check out the subwoofer setup under the observers seat behind the driver on this boat, it would allow you to keep all your existing leg room.

http://earmarkmarine.com/install_supra_24-1.asp

[KG's Supra24]

I think I have studied every boat on his site 5 times over. That storage compartment is one of the most heavily used compartments on my boat so I can't sacrifice it. I like the idea though!

[EarmarkMarine]

Haven't followed this thread and just read the last few posts, but you can add a sealed 12-inch or ported 10-inch to a Supra 24 under the driver's helm console and not give up any leg or foot room. The enclosure rides up on the face of the hump and your feet fit underneath with full depth up to the base of the hump. All concealed behind a facade. There are numerous examples.

David
Earmark Marine

[KG's Supra24]

That is the goal david. Just have to build it, unless of course you are having a big sale or even need someone to show off your setup. :p

[EarmarkMarine]

KG,
Humm, free in exchange for promotion. That's a generous offer. I'll have to consider it.

[dusty2221]

David, I believe your ported 10" enclosure is what we discussed on the phone a few weeks back. What was the size of the ported 10" setup?

[EarmarkMarine]

Most bass-reflex 10-inch enclosures run just over two cubic feet external displacement including internal volume, the woofer, port volume, port wall and exterior material. Ours runs just a little smaller to fit this application so we have modified the alignment a bit. And, it sounds great!

David
Earmark Marine

[bzubke1]

I think I have studied every boat on his site 5 times over. That storage compartment is one of the most heavily used compartments on my boat so I can't sacrifice it. I like the idea though!

I hear ya. Its hard to give up storage. I love the seating on those 24 supra's.

[KG's Supra24]

KG,
Humm, free in exchange for promotion. That's a generous offer. I'll have to consider it.

Come up with anything today? I'm sure you have been thinking about it. I'll clear my inbox out just in case ... :p