View Full Version : Another simpler antifreeze winterization

10-19-2010, 12:05 AM

5/16" nut driver
1/2", 3/8, ,1" or adjustable wrenches
5 litres 15w-40 oil shell rotella or equivalent
mobil one M1-201 oil filter or equivalent (biggest one I can fit on my remote holder)
oil filter wrench
large funnel with long neck
spark plug wrench
large ziplock bags
engine fogging oil
paper towels
suction unit
5 gallon jug non toxic plumbing antifreeze -40, or -50
1" hose with ballast quick connect fitting
Shop vac
Hydrogen peroxide 3%, or Bleach

1. Add required stabilizer (marine if you want ) to full gas tank and run motor for 10 minutes or up to 160..... mine will only get to about 130 unless under power since I had a new thermostat housing installed. Take new oil filter and pour oil into it and lubricate gasket with fresh oil. Pour oil in a few times, you will see why. Remove all ballast bags and run drain pumps.

2. Remove fitting off quick drain hose that comes up from oil pan bottom. extract oil, run motor for 5-10 seconds to reduce oil filter volume and extract rest of oil. I get 5 litres of oil out. Replace cap on drain hose.

3. Remove oil filter with a large ziplock bag around it and paper towels underneath.

4. Install new oil filter hand tight.

5. Remove top exhaust manifold water hose to make access to oil filler cap easier ( on catext engines). Add 5 litres of oil or to full mark on dipstick.

6. Start engine and run for 2-3 minutes to distribute fresh oil over all internal engine components. Check oil filter for leaks.

7. Remove water hoses on both sides of Vdrive, remove strainer if you have one and clean. Suck water out of Vdrive cooler from impeller side, if you want you can add some antifreeze with funnel to intake side.

8. Suck water out of Vdrive exit hose, then remove impeller top and bottom hoses. Make sure they are not touching belt or flywheel.

8b. Undo exhaust manifold coupler and drain......I usually get nothing as I have the dripless seal and all the water drains out thru this.

9. Remove J tube from top of thermostat housing and suck out water.

9b. Remove muffler drain screw and suck water out. You will be surprised how much comes out. Reinstall screw

10. Remove heater hose from circulating pump and suck out water. This will reduce the water that comes out the block drain plugs. Remove block heater hose and suck water out of block and out of heater. Wrap a paper towel around the hose to increase shop vac suction. Reinstall hoses with out clamps.

11. Remove right knock sensor then drain plug and suck out water. Poke hole to make sure there is no rust or debris blocking it. Reinstall hand tight.

12. Do same for left knock sensor and drain plug.

13 + 16 Only needed if your anal....... Place funnel in top of J tube and fill block with antifreeze until J tube is full. Attach J tube to housing but don't clamp.

14. Remove spark plugs and inspect and spray fogging oil in cylinders 2 seconds. This is a subject of debate as some say its not needed , but i prefer to add a little oil for the rings.

15. Close engine side doors and turn engine over a few times to distribute oil on piston rings. Open doors and clean any oil off. Reinstall spark plugs. Also distributes antifreeze around and some into exhaust mani and muffler

16. Now I suck and drain out all the antifreeze.
1. from top heater hose then block heater hose.
2. right drain plug then left drain plug.
3. from J tube.
This way i recapture almost all (90 %) of my antifreeze. I suck my bilge clean of any water before hand, and then any antifreeze I miss I can suck up out of the bilge. Reinstall all drain plugs and hoses and clamps.

17. Ok, I leave my Impeller in. I left it in last year and replaced it in late august due to overheating problems that were related to my thermostat and top cat exhaust fittings. When I removed it , with silicone spray and large needle nose visegrips, it looked brand new. But I have a strainer so this is your choice. I will replace mine every 2- 3 years. I have been doing this for over 10 years now with no problems. JMO

18. I now reinstall all hoses and clamps as i know there is no water anywhere , I also apply anti seize to my block drain threads as these will rust over winter and make it difficult to reinstall in the spring if you leave them out or remove the next fall.

18. During this procedure I will wet a paper towel with WD 40 and wipe down hoses and engine to provide anticorrosion protection. I also lube my transmission linkage

19. Now I attach quick connect with 1" hose and a funnel to each ballast pump. I turn on empty and fill with antifreeze till it sucks. Then I remove funnel and suck out antifreeze with shopvac and turn on fill pump. Shut off and remove fitting. Pump veins are in proper fill position. Do for each bag/pump. I have the jabsco pumps, others will vary. Drain bags and store in dry place... you can pour some bleach or hydrogen peroxide in before hand and slosh the water /bleach /H202 around before you drain.

20. Remove batteries , and store at home in warm place with a maintainer on them monthly.

21. Check tranny and vdrive oil and change as required.

I just did this today and believe I got everything , I will amend if I think of anything but this is what I do. I take no responsibility for damage but I have been winterizing an inboard for 10 years with no problems. I also clean, and wax , Slimy Grimy is great for cleaning hulls for those who leave their boats in the water ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3snjD4Wz5dQ ),vacuum, wax, dryer sheet(rodents), remove platform and cover my boat , which winters on my lift at my cottage.

If you have a shower you have to winterize that. Otherwise this is the same for DD and carbed or efi engines....there is no real need to fog thru the TB or carb. But you can if you wish. Ballast systems may vary and pitot speedometers with mdc units need to be disconnected.

10-25-2010, 08:49 AM
I have been reading up on the different winterizing procedures and winterized it yesterday. the only question I have is the Transmission a closed loop system as I didn't see any transmission drain plugs talked about anywhere.

I see the 2 lines that run from the transmission to the metal cooler - so is this close loop?
Or did I miss something?

I have an 06 Outback V drive.

10-25-2010, 01:21 PM
The actual trans cooler is located on the outlet end of the raw water pump on the right/driver side of the block. There is a brass drain plug on the bottom of it, but I personnaly pull the inlet hose to check for impeller vains. If you don't have an inline raw water filter I would definately pull off the inlet hose. Anything coming through the pump will tear up the impeller vains and they collect on the internal trans cooler screen creating over heating issues. Ask me how I know! The V drive oil cooling line is located under the plate on the top of the v drive. 4 bolts allow the plate to come off and the double "S" cooler line just sits in the top of the cavity. Just shop vac the water out. Be sure to check all 4 of the v drive sump bolts (9/16") on the bottom of v drive. Mine were barely wrench tight after 330 hours and were weeping some.