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cab13367
10-18-2010, 02:15 PM
How important is it to remove and clean out this screen? I saw that DOCDRS did a how to on this on his Supra so I was going to clean this out but in looking at where this is on my boat, it looks to be a real PITA as there isn't much room at all between the bottom of the tranny and the floor of the boat. I called the local dealer (Active Water Sports) to ask them the same question and they said that on my boat, you would have to pull the transmission to access that screen so they don't do it. They just suck out the fluid and add new.

So I was just wondering if anyone with a 2006+ LSV cleans out this screen or not.

Thanks,

Al

DOCDRS
10-18-2010, 02:35 PM
Hey Al , I had about three fingers of space between bottom of tranny and floor/propshaft exit housing. its best not to remove both bolts entirely and just drop cover and swing it clearing the screen hole. there was not much debris. I never did it on my 99 out back, but did clean my buddies 2000 outback tranny screen this fall and there was not much on it after 10 years. The next time I clean my screen will not be before 200 maybe 300 hours
for what its worth.

lewisb13
10-18-2010, 03:10 PM
Some 05 have the same engine/tranny as you. Just so they dont write off this thread because their boat is 05.

Razzman
10-18-2010, 03:42 PM
Al, i haven't done my '07 screen either. There's no way on earth to get that thing out as close to the floor as it is. I too asked that question and they told me not to worry about it. I just sucked the fluid out and added fresh fluid.

cab13367
10-18-2010, 04:01 PM
Hey Al , I had about three fingers of space between bottom of tranny and floor/propshaft exit housing. its best not to remove both bolts entirely and just drop cover and swing it clearing the screen hole. there was not much debris. I never did it on my 99 out back, but did clean my buddies 2000 outback tranny screen this fall and there was not much on it after 10 years. The next time I clean my screen will not be before 200 maybe 300 hours
for what its worth.

Doc, thanks for that background info. It can probably be done if I really wanted to go thru the time and effort but it sounds like it's not worth the trouble.


Some 05 have the same engine/tranny as you. Just so they dont write off this thread because their boat is 05.

Understood. It's just that the pre-06 has a different hull so there might be more room under the tranny. Just like doc's Supra is different as well.


Al, i haven't done my '07 screen either. There's no way on earth to get that thing out as close to the floor as it is. I too asked that question and they told me not to worry about it. I just sucked the fluid out and added fresh fluid.

That was my first impression as well, that there's no way it's coming out. Doc had a good suggestion about just removing one screw and loosening the other and then swinging the cover open. But it's so hard to get to and I'd be working blind the whole time so I don't think I am going to bother, especially if the dealer doesn't even do it.

Thanks guys.

thesack
10-18-2010, 04:05 PM
If it is at all possible see if your tranny fluid has any particles floating in it or settling to the bottom of the container you emptied it into. If you think that the amount of particles you are seeing is high, then you would want to check your screen. If not, don't worry about it. You could also send out a sample of the fluid for analysis, but its really probably not worth it.

DOCDRS
10-18-2010, 04:29 PM
Yes it is totally a blind job, not hard, but there was very little on my screen. I did it at about 12 or 16 hours and now have 90. Maybe I will do it next time I change my vdrive fluid next summer after I have about 30 hours on my new V drive

cab13367
10-18-2010, 04:49 PM
If it is at all possible see if your tranny fluid has any particles floating in it or settling to the bottom of the container you emptied it into. If you think that the amount of particles you are seeing is high, then you would want to check your screen. If not, don't worry about it. You could also send out a sample of the fluid for analysis, but its really probably not worth it.

Good suggestion Nate - I'll try to do that next time I change the tranny fluid.


Yes it is totally a blind job, not hard, but there was very little on my screen. I did it at about 12 or 16 hours and now have 90. Maybe I will do it next time I change my vdrive fluid next summer after I have about 30 hours on my new V drive

Doug,

I think your Supra probably has a little more room under the tranny than my LSV. Also, this would be a one handed job as I don't think there's anyway I can get two hands down there at one time.

Al

squeeg333
10-18-2010, 07:45 PM
Al - I think you're right about the Supra's having more room. I really wanted to get to it when I changed my tranny fluid this year, but, it sure seems like there was only about 1 fingers distance between the filter cover, and the hull. I can't imagine the filter is small enough to make it out of there, even if I could slide the cover to one side.

I'm pretty much relegated to the fact that the screen will stay in - I'll just make sure the fluid looks good when I do pull it out!

OBV6
10-19-2010, 09:25 AM
For DOCDRS and anyone else that has to or wants to get inside of the Walter Vdrive for service it is a 4 bolt easy job. I had some weeping coming from my Walter V drive on my 06 OBV so I thought I would check as to why. Seems all 4 of the sump nuts were barely wrench tight. Being the OCD person that I am thought I would check the condition (crap in the sump) while I had the winter to do it. Drain/suck the oil out, remove all 4x 9/16" nuts and remove the sump oil p/u tube from the pump head and off it comes. You might have to fight the bilge pump for room, but I took mine out to save some skin. It appeared that during the casting process the face of the sump had 2 depressions on the P/S sides from pouring the casting I am guessing. Anyway I decked the face with a fine file sanded it with emory cloth cleaned it all repainted as needed and applied a thin skin of RTV to reinforce the seal. Put it back on and tried to torque it as much as possible with the space available. Refilled the oil with 30W it took @ 1 QT. BTW if you suck out your oil, the sump p/u hose is coneected to the sump screen and it the lowest point on the drive so you will most likely get all of the oil out during servicing. Looking at the overall condition of the oil after 330 hours it was like new. If you change your oil as required I would see no reason to have do anything out of schedule.

DOCDRS
10-19-2010, 10:50 AM
For DOCDRS and anyone else that has to or wants to get inside of the Walter Vdrive for service it is a 4 bolt easy job. I had some weeping coming from my Walter V drive on my 06 OBV so I thought I would check as to why. Seems all 4 of the sump nuts were barely wrench tight. Being the OCD person that I am thought I would check the condition (crap in the sump) while I had the winter to do it. Drain/suck the oil out, remove all 4x 9/16" nuts and remove the sump oil p/u tube from the pump head and off it comes. You might have to fight the bilge pump for room, but I took mine out to save some skin. It appeared that during the casting process the face of the sump had 2 depressions on the P/S sides from pouring the casting I am guessing. Anyway I decked the face with a fine file sanded it with emory cloth cleaned it all repainted as needed and applied a thin skin of RTV to reinforce the seal. Put it back on and tried to torque it as much as possible with the space available. Refilled the oil with 30W it took @ 1 QT. BTW if you suck out your oil, the sump p/u hose is coneected to the sump screen and it the lowest point on the drive so you will most likely get all of the oil out during servicing. Looking at the overall condition of the oil after 330 hours it was like new. If you change your oil as required I would see no reason to have do anything out of schedule.

thanks for the info.......I love knowing how stuff works......I was lucky enough to watch my vdrive being replaced......I think that part of summerization or winterization a list of bolt re torquing should be done as these most likely vibrate loose during use