View Full Version : Replacing dripless seal?

09-27-2010, 09:27 PM
I've searched and found plenty of how to's for replacing the old style, but has anyone replaced the newer dripless seals? I need to replace mine and was wondering if it was a job I could handle or if I should go ahead and let my dealer do it. I can handle mechanical projects, but without a little guidance I'll let the pros handle it.

09-27-2010, 09:46 PM
seal $20-30 specify 1 1/8 or 1" oj props sells them and skidim
OJ dripless is $125- 149 skidim maybe oj props

There are clamps that hold the red rubber boot to the boat
,then clamps that the boot holds the seal housing to the shaft.
These need to be tight. From the seal housing there is a blue hose
that brings water from the exhaust mani to keep the seal water
cooled/lubricated ,these clamps need to be tight. Then there is the
Seal in the white housing. These 4 areas are sources of leaks, if its
Your seal it can be replaced by undoing the 4 coupler bolts,
mark your propshaft coupler and your v-drive couple so they are positioned the same when reassembling
Loosen coupler nut retaining set screw,remove coupler nut and coupler
off prop shaft ( I have posted this before on how to).
(Loosen the nylock nut off the coupler, but not all the way off the the prop shaft threads, then insert a smaller nut or socket inside the nylock against the end of the propshaft so that it is protruding past the nylock and the coupler, then pull back against the drive shaft coupler and using 2 bolts tighten until propshaft coupler breaks free. (if driveshaft coupler has center opening you will need flat stock or lay another wrench across opening and use longer bolts to pull the 2 couplers together) tighten each nut about 1/8 of a turn at a time......this will act as a press to free the shaft coupler).
Loosen clamps on
seal housing and remove blue cooling hose. Slide housing off shaft.
Remove blue seal cover, remove inner
C-clamp that holds Seal inside seal housing and remove seal and replace
With new one. Now take 1200 wetdry sandpaper and make sure prop
shaft end edges and key way are smooth so won't cut new seal as it is slid
back on shaft (there is also a protector
that should come with your new seal that you can slide over the threaded end).
Also smooth shaft in area of seal to make sure there are no pits on the shaft
that may have caused failure. Oil shaft and slide on new seal, retaining clip and blue cover
and reassemble. Now
Check your alignment before bolting your couplers and adjust if
necessary as this may be the cause of premature failure. Seals should
Last about 400 hours before leaking. Hope its just a clamp but some
Info fore the future

09-27-2010, 09:53 PM
Thanks for the info - I need to replace both the seal and housing.....


09-27-2010, 10:01 PM
ah yes , I remember now, you should install a strainer as well

mine had to be replaced as it was leaking from day one, long story and i will tell it soon but now they are replacing the v-drive as it is leaking oil from multiple places. I let the dealer do it as it was under warranty but wouldn't hesitate to do it now......

09-27-2010, 10:40 PM
how do you know when you need to replace it? Water in the bilge area?

09-28-2010, 12:15 AM
yes , you will have water in the bilge........it may or may not drip when sitting in the water, but will drip when you are under way....at least thats what mine did. TL7's prob overheated due to a lack of water lubrication and fried the seal carrier because of weeds possibly plugging the supply line. I would suggest a pre v-drive water strainer