View Full Version : Engine Crack advise

09-26-2010, 05:58 PM
Ok, so i just learned i got taken. i bought a 2004 outback from a private seller on Craiglist, i drove over 8 hours to test drive it and even had to make a return trip to pick it up because the guy only wanted to certified funds. I did everything he asked. I asked the important questions, was it winterized, was the engine good, never in the shop. I talked to a local shop and asked them what to look for. There was no water in the in the oil, there were no "spraying" leaks or visible leaks. I could only run the boat for an hour becuase of the drive time back. There was some cosmetic issues, dirty carpet, dirty seats but easy to clean (and already did it)I took it out this weekend and it felt "different" it pulled strong but it just felt heavy. i was able to pull a triple tube and wake board, a good 6-7 hour day on the water. I noticed the temperature was running 180, if i locked the trans out and rev'd it up, it would lower to 135, i just figured it was time for a new impeller, i also have to replace the steering cable, it is horrible and i tried greasing it, but no help.

here is the bad news, while cleaning up from the weekend, i noticed the block had a little water on the driver side 1/2 inch above the oil pan, right next to a sensor. I dried it off and let it sit for the game, i went back out at half time and the water was back, it seems to seap from a hairline crack.

i guess i bought a boat wwith a cracked block, i doubt dude will ever even call me back, but i have to deal with the boat. so i need advice on what to do next. i tried to find some "blocks" on line, but i dont know that i want to do it myself? i have no idea where to go. i am nervous about the local dealership, i tried to buy a new one but they didnt seem interested in selling me a boat, (hence why i bought a used one) and i have read on line a bad consumer report about them.

does anyone know a west tennessee dealer or boat mechanic that has a good reputation, cares about customers and does great work?

also if i do it myself, any ideas where to get an indmar 325 engine?


ps i learned my lesson, so be nice.....

09-26-2010, 06:09 PM
What a bag that guy is

09-26-2010, 07:49 PM
just curious, is there any water in the oil?

09-26-2010, 09:51 PM
You need to post some pictures of exactly what you are referring to. It may be a very simple fix. Always start with the easy and cheap fixes and then work your way up to engine replacement.

The engine has freeze plugs in the area that you are referring to, they are designed to fail before your block.

Also, how many hours on your boat.

09-26-2010, 10:37 PM
Doc - No water in the oil, since i just bought it, i was watching it close.

Max & Flat - pictures will be up soon, kinda dark now, but i get a better light on it....

thanks for not pointing out my stupidity, i thought i did my due dilligence....

09-26-2010, 11:09 PM
Pics. sorry cant get them to embed...i will work on learning how to do that...all three are of what i think is the crack. you can see the bead of water.

the boat is sitting in my driveway, trailer mostly level, maybe leaning to the front. the engine has not been run since yesterday afternoon. when it was running i didnt see an increase to the flow, but wasnt looking for it at that point. i just noticed the drip after church, when i was cleaning the boat up.

ask away....

09-26-2010, 11:19 PM
that is only external, i would grind the area all down and jb wend the crack, drain the block first so no water gets into the jb weld

09-26-2010, 11:21 PM
a chev vortec blocks are a dime a dozzzzzzzzon , by a old chevy that is a vortec and hown and change over your parts

09-26-2010, 11:29 PM
a chev vortec blocks are a dime a dozzzzzzzzon , by a old chevy that is a vortec and hown and change over your parts

i saw on another post, they were different alloys and other changes from the indmar division? also, a few of the websites i looked at had LH and RH conversions.....i need something that will last, i am learning all too much about buying used....

thanks for the advise and hopefully positive news...

09-26-2010, 11:29 PM
if there is no water in your oil then maybe its a flaw in the casting of the block and just took time for it to rust thru.....not sure but maybe you can grind it and
jb weld it, i would think you have been getting warm water in your bilge when you were running it but then the water pressure in the block is not huge and jb is good to 600 degrees. may give ya some time before ya have to get a new block... www.michiganmotorz.com


09-27-2010, 01:28 AM
first off that is a bum deal and I feel for you!

But alot of people buy used so don't feel like a heel. Nothing wrong with it as I purchased mine used too.

I would definitely have a dealer take a look at it just to make sure there isn't anything you are overlooking and/or if that really is the problem. I wouldn't necessarily take their word as gospel but would be good second opinion.

Lastly, there is alot of wisdom on these boards so take the steps already mentioned and use it to your advantage. Good luck!

09-27-2010, 10:32 AM
Look at the top of the first picture. I think someone has already been there with JB and paint.

09-27-2010, 10:53 AM
i noticed that too. looks a bit off

09-27-2010, 12:08 PM
i was wondering about that, i noticed it when i checked the engine during my test run, but the paint matched the whole block, and didnt seem odd since the only things i was told to look for were water in the oil and sprays and drips....what do you think the damage was, if that is jb weld, and given the size? it seems to make an horizontal H, could there be cylinder damage? I wonder why there is no water in the oil, if that is the case....

this really disturbing and has me bummed out...

if i buy the michigan motor block, can someone confirm the right crate and advise where to get the work done (in west tennesse, or i could take it to nashville) i doubt the dealer will work with a block i buy....

this is the one i was looking at, but it says it only 295 hp, i would really like to get back to the 325 original or better, if im gunna drop the dime.


any advise there?

thanks again

09-27-2010, 12:44 PM
I just don't get it, Why would someone change a block with a hairline crack on it ?... This cannot cause power lost ... I'm pretty sure i can run an engine with the drain plugs out... It is totaly normal for that engine to oscillate between 135 and 180 as the thermostat open and close...

09-27-2010, 12:48 PM
True story, i personally dont think you need a block.

09-27-2010, 12:50 PM
I was thinking the same thing martin. Mine normally runs right at 180 all the time

09-27-2010, 01:00 PM
hey dont get me wrong, i dont want to drop 3500 dollars on a boat, i just bought, but i also dont want to get stranded and i am just trying to get the Pro's opinions.

someone mentioned the crate motor and i was just looking for advise. if i can run it until the water breaches the inners, that better for me, i will just invest the money for the block and hopefully by the time i need it, i will have earned enough interest....LOL....

so its to the garage she goes to get drained and patched...

thanks for the advise everyone...

09-27-2010, 01:31 PM
Hey Bud, That sucks. I have an LSV 2004 Outback,guy who shrink rapped it for me claimed he winterized the block.He fogged it somewhere and never removed the plugs!!!! Long story short, hairline crack in block.
I was sick. It was a practically new boat! My Marina further away sealed it with something strong and 200 hours later of 10 people in boat/ many sets of riding, its been fine. Mine looked liked yours,external crack. The repair was $100. Since then, with basic maintenence from this site, a couple of batteries,1 impeller,1 steering cable,boat is awesome.Oh, I winterize myself now. Great instructions posted here.
Good luck.

09-27-2010, 05:21 PM
The place in your block that has a crack probably will not have any effect on the internal engine. If it were mine, I would fine a machine shop in the local area and try to have them grind a little on it and then weld it up. If no one wants to do that, I would grind up the area and use liberal amounts of JB Weld (or similar). I doubt that it will cost over $100 to get this fixed unless the leak is being caused by an internal rust issue (which isn't likely in your neck of the woods).

Honestly, there is a chance that the previous owner did not notice the leak (positive thinking). This isn't the worst thing that could happen, so not a big deal.