Sub options?

[lewisb13]

OK I promised I would post up what it looks like under MY helm to get some ideas on where/how to put a sub under there. Just for reference, from the top of the hump to bottom of that fuse bus, Im guessing is about 10 inches. Now with that being said, are there any boxes out there that already exist? Like without having one custom made, how much are they, and do you have a link? Not really looking to cut a hole in the kick plate and do the free air thing, not my style. I need box, sub, amp, and wiring for under $400. I already have a sub to use, but would be willing to get a new one. Lets hear some opinions, you guys are always a great help.

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt213/lewisb13/untitled1.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt213/lewisb13/WAKE/62535_10100351411829694_2314196_67214970_4886911_n .jpg

[EarmarkMarine]

The photos really do distort the depth perception in that there is alot of distance between the bow mold (far) and hump (close).
Here is our most common approach in that boat:
Move the fuseblock/buss a little to the left.
Use a sidefiring 10-inch sealed enclosure with barely 0.625 internal net displacement. Coat the enclosure. Use a quality terminal cup. Place a 1/4-inch thick ABS spacer under the box and over the carpeted hump. Mount the box to the hump with aluminum bracketry. Use a small stabilizing brace overhead. We most frequently use a JL Audio W0 or W1 woofer in this application. Personally I do not like the sound of a very large magnet woofer in a small sealed box (too over-damped) but this combo I mentioned sounds great. 200 watts minimum to 300 watts optimum.
If you want it fully concealed then we use an intermediate panel over the end of the box and add a carpeted birch facade.
The above generally runs $400 ($450 shipped) from any shop that does marine installs, including the sub ($100 value) and without the facade.
There are countless other ways, this is just one way.

David
Earmark Marine

[viking]

Great explanation David!

My .02 on the subject. Move the fuse bus (I screwed mine up under the dash right above the steering column). Find a sub that uses a smaller enclosure and Measure, Measure, Measure to ensure the box will fit. Build your box to the specs and then coat your enclosure in Rino Lining or Epoxy or the like. If you do it right it will sound great and won't succumb to the elements at least for the time you own your boat.

If you don't want to do it yourself........pony up the extra $$ and get a turn key solution from the great guys at Earmark Audio :)

[Razzman]

Here's how i ran mine for a couple seasons, Memphis 10" sub in custom enclosure mounted side firing on the hump.

[jmvotto]

wow in the 05 they put the wire conduit very close to the middle of the kick panel, in the 07 its over to the right much more.


Razz i think you lsv has more height above the kick panel.

Try an 8" or 10" inch bazooka tube. may just do the trick for cheap.

[lewisb13]

Yeah man those wires are RIGHT in the middle. Theres probably about 14ish inches inbetween them and either side. Its a tight fit. I might have to do a square box and lose the leg room or do the integrated box and lose even more. We shall see, I need to go take exact measurements.

[sandm]

depending on how long you are going to keep the boat, just remove the hump and replace with a box, building it in a "u" shape around the wiring. if you are planning on keeping the boat for any length of time, this will get you a proper box and look factory.

[jmvotto]

for less than 100 you could flip this upside down and face the sub toward the kick plate and put some 1 inch spacers in there , its also ported as well.

no need to lose foot space and or cut a hole.
sub on a budget.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&rlz=1R2GGLD_enUS331&q=kicker+10+subwoofer&wrapid=tlif12853565575702&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=7739444271774424946&ei=HPycTOj0LoGKlweNxPGPCg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=image&resnum=5&ved=0CEEQ8gIwBA#