View Full Version : Winterizing an Inboard engine

09-14-2004, 02:48 PM
I have never owned an inboard. I do know the winterizing process for I-O's. What exactly do you do when winterizing an Inboard boat?

09-14-2004, 03:56 PM
Clark, Do a search on this board for "Winterizing" and you'll find a ton of resources.

09-15-2004, 09:03 AM
Check out: http://www.skidim.com/DIMwintertechtips.asp

09-15-2004, 10:33 PM
Good website tool.

I did winterize my own 310 carb ('03) last fall, and it seemed to be fine.

I never winterized my I/O, but when I bought the inboard, they assured me it was a piece of cake. As part of the "deal", they showed my how to winterize it the first year, and I plan on doing it again. I took notes..... Basically, you need fogging oil, boat antifreeze, and a few basic tools. Seems like I started and ran it in the driveway for a while with the Sta-Bil in the tank to assure you have gas in the carb which is mixed with it (I added the Sta-Bil according to the amount in my tank at time of winterizing and drove around for a few miles to mix it up well), of course using a "Fake-a-Lake" apparatus. After you have it running through the carb, remove the breather and "fog" it right in the choke til it dies. Now you can remove the block drain plugs on each side (they will be warm) and let them drain. Disconnect the hoses on the front (connected to water pump) and drain the water out, filling them up partially with boat antifreeze before reconnectiong them. Remember, if you have any doubt about any hose, disconnect it and assure that it does not have water in it. Cliff's notes, that's pretty much it. I did not remove the impeller, however I did disconnect the hose near it to assure that there was not debris. I also purchased a "trickle-charger" to rotate between my boat and lawn mower battery during the winter months....Best $30 I have ever spent....it monitors drops on enough juice on the battery to keep it topped off all the time (I totally remove my battery during the winter here in Indiana).

Best advice is make sure you have it completely dry in there before shutting it up for the winter. I didn't leave Damp Rid in there, and I had a bit of mildew to tackle in the spring. I need to buy a better cover....the factory one just doesn't cut it without a lot of modifications. I have an '03 Outback LS, and that locker in the back has NO ventilation. Also, as posted on this site a lot, the ski locker does not want to drain well. It would be worth sapping it up with a towel before storage......

Let me know if I can help any more...


09-16-2004, 07:18 AM
Thanks Wes,

Great info. The item you mentioned called "Fake-a-Lake", is that like the flush attachment that can be bought as an option or is it like one of those clamp on things of I-O's? I have been wondering about that. With me I-O, I would usually hook the water hose to the clamp on device and run some fresh water thru the engine after being on the lake just to keep things as clean as possible. Any and all tricks are appreciated. I don't even have my new boat yet. I am going to the Jan boat show and hopefully get a Mobius LSV.


09-17-2004, 11:19 AM
The fake a lake is like the clamps you were talking about with your I/O, it is different than the flush kit. I made my own by taking a plunger and inserting a water hose into the side of the rubber , you can then wedge the handle against the ground and have the rubber cup around the water intake on the bottom of the boat. You can by them at most sites online, west marine, overtons, boaters world etc

09-17-2004, 11:20 AM
oh yeah you should always have your tank full or as close as possible when storing so you dont get water condensation in the tank