View Full Version : Pulling the motor seasons over

07-25-2010, 10:30 AM
Engine Nut and All
The good almost 420 hours of great family and friend memories. The bad having to do this.
Last sunday multiple mourning butter ski runs, afternoon swimming and tubing never realized how tubing is like chumming pull 5 or 6 17 year old girls and amazing what appears.
I had just unloaded everyone and restarted the boat and going to help tow a family that had been dead for 45 minutes with a newborn and no one had stopped to help them. Idled out and powered up and heard a sound like a old hand clacker above 8 to 9 mph. Pulled motor box and listened at idle and heard nothing left cover open heard sound again above 9 mph.
We pretty sure its one of these three but leaning towards 1

#1 Broken wrist pin--- sound only under load- idle and engine performance seem not to be
impacted ( not trying to send something through block).

#2 Possible bent or loose rod. --- sound woulld always be present-would not sound correct

#3 spun bearing--argh sure hope not- but it would be pronounced everywhere in its impact

Before its asked oil changed 2-3 times a seasonaround 15 to 20 hours I have maintence OCD
Engine nut is it possible to get a shop manual or at least parts spec break down,torque specs and such? 02 carb motor
Guys since I have to go through this would you.
#1 Replace packing with dripless
#2 Replace cutlass bearing in strut
Anything else you can think of?
Thanks for the input

07-26-2010, 12:52 AM
One other thing I would check would be the prop and the shaft. Did you try just revving up the engine without having the prop turn?

07-26-2010, 12:44 PM
jester thanks unfortunately its in the motor. we checked and rechecked everything.

07-26-2010, 12:49 PM
Dang. Sorry to hear that. Are you going to rebuild the one you have or just get a new one or a new boat? 420 hours is a good time on the boat. at least you got your use out of her.

07-26-2010, 01:03 PM
Should just be getting broken in at 420.

07-26-2010, 01:17 PM
defintely hurts. yeah it is just getting broken in at 420 hrs.it has been a one pump turn key and start since i picked it up 8 years ago. unfrotunately no new boat plans not in the budget. one in college and one soon to be. right now until its out i am not sure. really depends on what truly went wrong. have to add up whether a short block is the way to go,machine shop for whats there i just dont know yet. started the disconnection yesterday
and bought and built the crane truly not a tool i ever wanted to add to my collection. i am hoping larry aka engine nut has a few minutes and pops on. i will take pics and post as i go along.

07-26-2010, 01:27 PM
Should just be getting broken in at 420.

I would certainly hope that this is the case... I don't think that is a lot of hours for any boat.

07-26-2010, 05:10 PM
I am going to pray to the motor gods that when you pull the trans you find a broken flexplate that flexes and clacks under load. I had this happen once in a old car and it would ony clack under load no matter how high you revved it in neutral. Please keep us posted, I have the same year boat and am always nervous when I see a boat with so few hours have huge issues.

07-27-2010, 01:05 AM
jeese unfortunately the sound is port side #2 or#3 cylinder. stethescoped the block,heads and valve cover to best pinpoint wasnt low and wasnt high thats why i am leaning towards broken wrist pin. will keep all posted

08-02-2010, 12:58 PM
Its out I hope I can post a few pics. As you can see the last is the painful one
I want to add we checked the entire block,risers,heads no sign of any leakage prior to pulling it out. Also we looked at the oil and it was clear as it should be. I even removed a quart and did not see any liquid. Only after dropping the pan the horror

08-02-2010, 01:08 PM
sorry to hear/see it BLKOUTLS :(

Like somebody else said, 420 is barely broke in! Seems rare for this big of a problem at this low of hours...

08-02-2010, 01:18 PM
So what do you believe the final issue is? It is hard to tell from the pics. Could you upload a few larger ones when you get a chance?

08-02-2010, 01:29 PM
I couldn't tell anything from the photo of the pan. Just looked a little black but not clear enough to speculate-- at least not for these eyes.

08-02-2010, 01:32 PM
Jesse dont know yet. i pulled the motor and oil pan yesterday and found about 1/4 cup of water mix in the pan. I plan on pulling the transmission and engine standing the motor this week. Then start a meticulous break down looking for any sign of damage or possible leak paths from a gasket,head or block. I want to get it right. Its been suggested i pull all the pistons and have the rods measured to insure one didnt bend. Also replace all the bearing,gasket and so on.

Sorry I try to post larger pics later. The pan has a slurry kind of a milky paste in it

08-02-2010, 01:34 PM
I am so sorry that you have to do this at THIS TIME OF YEAR. I used to live in Ilinobama and know full well how long (wrong adjective?) the season is. Hope you're back on the water soon.

08-02-2010, 01:44 PM
Here is a better pic sorry still small. The river is closed right now so the pain is somewhat lessened but still hurts.

08-02-2010, 11:55 PM
I guess a good thing is you can rebuild the engine with new gaskets and everything and it will be like new again.

08-03-2010, 12:39 AM
Just wondering how your oil pressure and water temp was.Milky color to me is water in the oil. Good luck and please keep us posted.

08-03-2010, 03:21 PM
oil pressure was 60 to 80 as it always is and temp never above 180 it normal operating temp
its a carb engine.

08-03-2010, 11:05 PM
with that much water oil should have looked "milky" when you checked it?

08-15-2010, 10:02 PM
Finally had a chance to actually start disassembling the motor and its finally off the crane and on an engine stand. Removed the trans.exhaust, intake manifolds ,distributor and plugs and wires and such. Then got to the good stuff. Saw more evidence of water then I pulled the port head off . I think the pictures tell it best.

08-16-2010, 01:31 AM
blk - I see the section of missing gasket between two cylinders. But how would does that result in water in the engine? - Deerfield

08-16-2010, 02:51 AM
blk - I see the section of missing gasket between two cylinders. But how would does that result in water in the engine? - Deerfield

Blown head gasket means the water that passes through the block to keep it nice and cool was able to get into the oil from the cylinders.

Pretty cheap fix but the labor is usually pretty intense to replace one.

08-16-2010, 04:38 AM
You need to figure out why that head gasket failed. Did your engine run hot ever? Perhaps hot spots between the cylinders? Pre-ignition or detonation? If the engine was ever running weird before this happened might give you some insight. Good luck!

driven sydeways
08-19-2010, 11:51 AM
blk - I see the section of missing gasket between two cylinders. But how would does that result in water in the engine? - Deerfield

i know what you mean, my guess is the water jacket hole is close enough to the broken gasket it allowed water in that way.

08-20-2010, 03:13 AM
I wonder if the head bolts were loose.

08-23-2010, 04:53 PM
Bummer, It sure sucks to have that happen mid season. I do feel your pain.. Anyway, did you notice any change in engine performance as in cylinder misfire on at least 1 cyl before the noise? Also it sounds like the engine bearings were ok since there was no debris in the pan at least that is what I could tell from the pics. Head gasket failure happens from a variety of things: cylinder pressure, clamping force , temperature, age, surface irregularities, gasket material defects. I might be missing some other causes but this it what I have found over the years. None the less, as long as you have it torn down that far, might as well ball hone the cylinders and re ring it. New connecting rod bearings just for good measure. Hope I helped.