does a '99 outback have kill switch?

[polar21]

As the title states, does a '99 outback have a kill switch? I just went to crank the boat and everything works, except nothing happens with the motor. All gauges work, all switches work, bilge pump, blower, radio, etc all work. Where would you start to trouble shoot this? My train of that is to still clean the battery off, clean the ground off on the motor, and then start checking connections at the battery. What do you think? And yes, it has been a rough couple of months of boat ownership for me! lol

[Waynes345]

I've got a '99 OB and there is no kill switch, unless somebody added an aftermarket switch. If they did that, I'd assume it would be in an obvious location.

[polar21]

Thanks Wayne, I thought the same thing.

[BensonWdby]

There is always the obvious. There is a lockout if you are not in neutral. So maybe it is related tothe throttle control?

[polar21]

Benson,
That is the second thing that came to my mind. Do you know where the lockout/sensor mechanism would be?

[DOCDRS]

had that happen to me once ...the throttle was just a hair from neutral...looked like it was in neutral but the lockout on the lever wasn't out

[BensonWdby]

Sorry - I do not know where the mechanism is. I don't even know if it is mechanical or electrical. When in doubt - try a new battery. Then there is always the possibility that it in the ignition somewhere...

[AaronWhitt82]

I would say check the neutral safety switch and make sure it is in neutral.
Make sure the battery is at full charge and that the cables are tight
Check all the connections at the starter and ignition

[polar21]

I think I have narrowed the problem down to the ignition switch. Using a test light, I have power from the starter and I have power going to the accessory panel. The only thing between these two items is the ignition switch. I am going to replace that today and will let you know what happens.

[BensonWdby]

One other obvious - the circuirt breaker.

On my 99 Mobius the breakers are all pop-out buttons under black rubber nipples (can I say that here?) There is no visible sign of the breaker popping, but make sure you push all of them in before starting. If it is the breaker I guess you need to figure out why it is popping...

[polar21]

Benson,
I did that as well. Nothing tripped the breaker. I went and got a new ignition switch today during lunch and will be putting that on tonight. I am hoping that when I button it all back up the boat will crank.....fingers crossed......

[polar21]

Well I got home and began installing new ignition switch. Wired it up the same way as the old one and hit the key....NOTHING. I got out my test light and began testing connections under the dash. Long story short the ignition wire that feeds the starter is dead. The main harness on the engine feeds the circuit panel behind the dash. Just to the left of the ignition (on the far right side of the circuit board) there is a male connector labeled "start". Somewhere between where the engine harness connects to the circuit board and the male "start" connector there is a bad connection. I am thinking of maybe bypassing the main engine harness and running a wire from the ignition to the starter directly.

[polar21]

I found these pictures online and its the same setup I have. The first picture is of the ignition with the Red, Yellow, and Purple wires hooked up. The second picture is where my problem lies. If you look on the circuit panel, the male connector that says "Start" should be hot and its not getting power. Also, the "ACC" male connector isnt getting power either. Can I pop off the circuit board and have a look in the front of it to see if I can see a broken connection somewhere? What would you guys do? If I knew which one of the 2 red wires in the main harness plug (on the left in the 2nd Pic) went to the starter/solenoid I would just bypass that connection.

[JesseC]

I think those are the pictures I took of the back of my panel!!!

Have you checked for voltage on the output of the circuit breaker with the ignition turned and held at the start position? I wonder if the circuit breaker is bad. It would be very easy to bypass and test. I would check both sides for voltage first before bypassing.

[JesseC]

After thinking through my reply and looking back at the picture. Is there 12 volts coming from the red wire that feeds the bottom of the breaker and if so is there 12 volts at the top of the breaker? I had a similar issue with mine and it turned out to be the large plug that the harness connects to just in front of and below the distributor. I unplugged it polished the plug and plugged it back in and everything started functioning again.

[polar21]

Jesse,
Those may very well be your pictures. I know the main engine harness connector coming from the motor is getting power. I have it at the shop now, after 4 days of messing with this I had to give up and take it somewhere.

I cleaned off the connections at the starter last night hoping that I would magically make something work but it made no difference. However, I never messed with any of the connections by the distributor.

Part of me thinks something is wrong with the circuit board, but everything else works fine. Gauges, switches, radio all work properly. I am curious to see what the shop can find out.

Thanks for your help.

[kaneboats]

Please post the outcome. We're all wondering on this one.

[polar21]

COIL!!!!!

That was my problem with the boat not getting any power to the starter. $30 part and got the bill for $200. I love marine mechanics but I am happy to be back on the water and the guy got the boat fixed the same day. Not complaining on the price because I knew what I was going to pay going into it and the cost was justified by 4 trouble free days on the water with no cell phone, limited tv, and 20 friends and family (and 3 tubes being pulled behind the boat and seeing grown men skim across the top of the water!).