View Full Version : Startup electrical help

05-27-2010, 07:11 AM
I got my 06 OBV (325 EFI) used in the fall and had it winterized right away but it was fine then. Batteries were taken out and on float chargers all winter. Saturday I did the fake a lake thing and everything started up great. Yesterday we went for our first water trip. Backed it in on the trailer, started it up just fine. So, I pulled out, picked the wife up at the dock after she parked the trailer and off to explore the river since it was the first time on that water.

I get to the end of the river with no problems and then want to start messing with some of the things since the boat is new to us. I wanted to play with the perfect pass menus a little bit, so I started to do that and it seemed to lock up and not respond to anything (on/off, other buttons). So I figured I'd kill the engine and reboot it so to speak.

Well naturally after I turn off the engine, it never starts again. It's not turning over, no clicking sounds, etc. I'd suspect battery but seems like everything else on the boat is working, but come to think of it I don't remember if perfect pass ever came back and the wake plate might not have been responsive. Long story short (and a long swim with a boat on my back) I'm looking for things to check out. It's my first boat and though I've been on them a long time I did forget to think about fuses at the time. I know it's not the kill switch, don't have a battery switch that would have accidentally turned off, etc.

So once I get a chance to get to it in my driveway again, my short list is:
- Hunt for blown fuses (would they just be in under the console?)
- Try a jump of the batteries just to make sure that's not it

If it's neither of those, anybody have any other insights? It worked and sounded great in the driveway the other day, and great yesterday right up until I turned it off.

05-27-2010, 07:16 AM
One other thing I thought of was vapor lock since the only gas in our area is E10 but I don't really have any experience with it yet to know what the symptoms are (time for some googling). We had the blower going well before we initially started, and all told we were probably dead in the river for maybe 2 hours, and had the blower going on and off some of that time as well, and it never started up again even when we finally got back to the dock. If these symptoms could match up with vapor lock, what would I need to go about doing to fix?

I just found this thread which seems pretty similar. I'll dig through all of those suggestions as well.


05-27-2010, 09:35 AM
I can without a doubt you didn't have vapor lock. If you had Vapor lock the boat would have cranked and not started.

You said the boat wouldn't crank.

Couple things to check for, lets look at problem 1 boat not cranking, then we can worry about why it wont start after it cranks.

You will need to get in the engine area and find your starter and solenoid. Should be front of the engine on the starboard side. Right side of the engine if you look at the engine from the rear.

You have 12 volts constant and a 12 volt switched from the ignition. If you get 12V when you hit the key the solenoid is bad and you need to replace that. If your not getting 12 V there then you have to check fuses, I would of course check those first. Look under the Dash upper left area you can see a fuse block there.

Now if your fuses are good and your not getting 12V at the solenoid you can check your Ignition switch for the same 12V when you hit the starter. Rare the ignition switch goes bad.

Starters on the other hand are funny when they go bad, because even though cold starts are hardest on them, being on a hot engine will cause them to not work more times then not. It will crank fine in the drive way and at the ramp, engine block and starter are cold. Then drive it for 30 minutes everything is hot and then the starter doesn't work.

This would be my first place to look for problems.

As for your PP i don't think its connected to the starting circuit so it acting up and the starter not working seem as thought they are connected problem but i don't think so. You should be able to unplug the PP on the back of it and the boat will start and run fine. It should be a completely separate system

05-27-2010, 10:04 AM
Great stuff thanks for the help. Yeah after I started searching around I found out that not turning over wasn't going to be vapor lock. I wasn't really sure the PP was part of the problem, just mentioning it for sequence of events just in case :)

05-27-2010, 10:24 AM
I'd start with checking battery cable connections and go from there. Do the easiest stuff first like fuses, etc. But, I also think you have a solenoid or starter issue.

05-27-2010, 12:22 PM
If we go on the assumption that I need a starter replacement does anyone know which one to get? I don't have a local dealer but I suppose I could call one and try to get it shipped if OEM is the only real way to go.

I searched a bit and saw a few links but not sure which of these it would be.



Replacing it I imagine is pretty easy?

05-27-2010, 12:32 PM
Quick and easy things to check first. Lanyard switch and transmission linkage. I say those only because you're getting nothing when you try to start it. The lanyard is pretty obvious but I've had the linkage pop off of the transmission on mine and it will give you a similar result if it's not in neutral.

05-27-2010, 12:38 PM
I'll go to even more basic. Make sure that the throttle is in neutral. Boat shouldn't start or turn over if it is not. There is a switch there that tells the boat that it's ok to start. Also, check your safety lanyard (by the drivers seat), it that is not seated correctly the boat won't start (too many negatives there).
Take the battery to an auto parts store and have it checked under a load. If you decide that it is a starter, you can take a starter to an auto parts store to have it checked under load. If it's bad, don't buy a car starter as it doesn't have vapor protection that a boat needs to be safe.

05-27-2010, 01:03 PM
I definitely quadruple checked both the safety lanyard and being in neutral before I got in and started swimming :)

05-27-2010, 05:02 PM
Update - I'm in the driveway now looking at things.

I flipped the circuit breaker a few times to no effect. Tightened all battery connections, made sure everything I could see at least had a decent connection. No dice.

I must confess my ignorance but I couldn't seem to find what was obviously a fuse block. Under the dash there's the main panel that all the switches are hooked to on the upper left (if looking at it from your back underneath looking out). Above that is the panel that all the gauges are hooked up to. There's a small fuse panel in the battery compartment but this looks like it's just audio related and might have been put in after the fact. If you look at the upper left while looking straight in there's a panel there but I didn't immediately identify it as a fuse box but maybe that's it and I just don't know what I'm looking at.

Some progress is if I hook up my car to jump the battery, the engine turns but doesn't start (clicking). I think the batteries are reading low and may need to be charged or replaced but is there something else I need to look at to get it started on a jump or could it be something else?

05-27-2010, 07:32 PM
2 new batteries and it started like a champ. Guess a good tester/charger are on my list of things to get.

At least that's figured out before a nice weekend at the lake :)

05-27-2010, 08:02 PM
There may be a reason that your boat failed after a few hours. You should have the charging system (alternator) checked for proper output.

05-27-2010, 09:57 PM
Is that something I can do with some research or better to just bring it in somewhere? I don't really have a dealer nearby but could figure something out.

05-28-2010, 09:10 AM
Pull the alternator off and take it to a local auto parts store. Most can test them-- call ahead and confirm they can do this. Or get yourself an amp meter.