i think i have a fix(ballast tank filling at speed)

[danimal95]

some one tell me whay this wouldnt work:were the ballast tanks get their lake water to fill,on the hull of the boat there is 1 3/4"ball valve,what if i were to remove that valve and put a 12VDC solinoid activated valve in its place wired to the switchs for the fill side of the pumps?this would allow it to be normally closed when the switches are in the off position,and when switched to the fill position the valve would be opened allowing the pumps to gain access to the lake water.....i have already priced the valves at $40 shipped,so it would be economical as well.any thoughts would be appreciated before i buy one of these and try it

[2007 Outback V]

I believe others have done this. Is a great option, but does have some pitfalls. An electrical valve is another point of potential failure. Could put a standard ballvalve in after the electrical valve in case of an emergency. Yet, both valves would be taking up more room, may/may not be an issue. I say give it a try and let us know how it works.

[stretch55]

some one tell me whay this wouldnt work:were the ballast tanks get their lake water to fill,on the hull of the boat there is 1 3/4"ball valve,what if i were to remove that valve and put a 12VDC solinoid activated valve in its place wired to the switchs for the fill side of the pumps?this would allow it to be normally closed when the switches are in the off position,and when switched to the fill position the valve would be opened allowing the pumps to gain access to the lake water.....i have already priced the valves at $40 shipped,so it would be economical as well.any thoughts would be appreciated before i buy one of these and try it

Can you post where you found those valves for $40.00. So with these you could eliminate the vented loops??

[cab13367]

some one tell me whay this wouldnt work:were the ballast tanks get their lake water to fill,on the hull of the boat there is 1 3/4"ball valve,what if i were to remove that valve and put a 12VDC solinoid activated valve in its place wired to the switchs for the fill side of the pumps?this would allow it to be normally closed when the switches are in the off position,and when switched to the fill position the valve would be opened allowing the pumps to gain access to the lake water.....i have already priced the valves at $40 shipped,so it would be economical as well.any thoughts would be appreciated before i buy one of these and try it

Yes, that would work if you have done away with the sprinkler valves and are running three fill pumps off the same intake. Someone on the Supra forum did that exact thing using an electric gate valve designed for RV use but it was closer to $100. You'll want a valve that does not impede water flow and one that can be shut off manually if needed. Could you post a link to the valve that you have in mind?

Also, you have to figure out how to wire it so that it will open if any of the switches are turned to "Fill" and will close only if all the switches are turned to off. Otherwise, you will have to put it on it's own switch open and close it independently of the ballast switches which is what the Supra guy did.

[cab13367]

Here's the link to the Supra guy's install using an electric shut off valve.

http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=4646

Yes stretch, this would eliminate the vented loops but you would need three of them since you have three separate intakes!

[viking]

If I'm reading it right That Electronic gate looks like it fits 3" pipe. You need to buy a reducer to put it on 1.5" pipe and even then that pretty big??

[cab13367]

If I'm reading it right That Electronic gate looks like it fits 3" pipe. You need to buy a reducer to put it on 1.5" pipe and even then that pretty big??

That is correct.

[Big Boss]

So if the main valve opens when any of the fill switches are turned on, water will flow into all bags if the boat is at speed.

If I'm reading this right, in order to fill one bag but not the others I would need to be stationary, correct? Assuming the other valves have been removed and each bag has it's own fill pump.

Thanks,

Aaron

[cab13367]

So if the main valve opens when any of the fill switches are turned on, water will flow into all bags if the boat is at speed.

If I'm reading this right, in order to fill one bag but not the others I would need to be stationary, correct? Assuming the other valves have been removed and each bag has it's own fill pump.

Thanks,

Aaron

That would be true if u keep the stock intake scupper as the scoop will force water thru the pumps. But if u replace that with a mushroom type intake, the rear bags should not autofill at speed. With the front bag, as long as u loop the fill hose up high enough, it should not autofill. I am gong to test that theory out this weekend.

[stretch55]

I just want to know where danimal95 found these for $40 and are they normal 3/4" or 1" sizes??

[danimal95]

I just want to know where danimal95 found these for $40 and are they normal 3/4" or 1" sizes??

yes they are normal 3/ or 1" pipe thread,ebay my brothers:p

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-4-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-12-volt-DC-VITON-SEAL-B21V-/300422087689?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f28d4409


it may just be easier to use one of the switches on the consol that are not being used to activate tyhe solinoid then try to tie it in with all three fill switches.i ordered one yesterday i am hoping to have ity installed by the end of next week with results shortly there after

[stretch55]

Thanks! The 1" says 24v how woould I run 3 of these? I would want to replace the manual valve on my 3 intakes. I think this would eliminate the need of the 1" vented loops and creat an even faster fill time since it would reduce friction in the fill lines.

[danimal95]

Thanks! The 1" says 24v how woould I run 3 of these? I would want to replace the manual valve on my 3 intakes. I think this would eliminate the need of the 1" vented loops and creat an even faster fill time since it would reduce friction in the fill lines.

i thought that they all used the same intake on the bottom of the hull???i know that the rear bags for certain use the same intake,and i just assumed the front used that ipne as well,do to the fact that there are only 2 intakes on my hull,1 for the drivetrain and 1 for the ballast pumps?

[stretch55]

i thought that they all used the same intake on the bottom of the hull???i know that the rear bags for certain use the same intake,and i just assumed the front used that ipne as well,do to the fact that there are only 2 intakes on my hull,1 for the drivetrain and 1 for the ballast pumps?

I posted the wrong one. I found the 12v ones. I still need 3. 1 for each intake, I have 3 intakes, 1 for each bag. I think I could just wire them in with the tsunami's and add a bigger fuse. Then I should be able to remove the vented loops. I am just waiting for Jason at wakemakers to confirm that.

[cab13367]

i thought that they all used the same intake on the bottom of the hull???i know that the rear bags for certain use the same intake,and i just assumed the front used that ipne as well,do to the fact that there are only 2 intakes on my hull,1 for the drivetrain and 1 for the ballast pumps?

You are correct - the stock set up has one intake feeding one pump then three sprinkler valves that determine where the water will go. Are you going to upgrade your ballast to three separate pumps off one intake and do away with the sprinkler valves? I assuming you are since you ordered this valve.

Stretch has upgraded his so that each bag has it's own fill pump and each fill pump has it's own 1" intake.


I posted the wrong one. I found the 12v ones. I still need 3. 1 for each intake, I have 3 intakes, 1 for each bag. I think I could just wire them in with the tsunami's and add a bigger fuse. Then I should be able to remove the vented loops. I am just waiting for Jason at wakemakers to confirm that.

stretch,

Yes, you could do what you are proposing. But look at the cutaway diagram in the listing (click on item 10 in the technical specifications section) and the pic of the bottom part of the valve. I count 5 times that the water has to turn 90 degrees before eventually going out the other end so it looks like a very restrictive design. I think you would get better flow out of your Irritrols.

danimal,

Could you do a flow test for us when you get the valve? This is how I suggest you do the test. Disconnect the 1" fill line going from your Rule pump to the sprinkler manifold. Attach a reducer hose barb to the 1" hose - 1" to 3/4". Can get at Home Depot or Lowes for like 50 cents. Disconnect one of your rear fill lines at the sprinkler valve and remove the quick connect. Attach the hose to the reducer hose barb. Disconnect the other end from the sac and drape it over the back to the swim platform. Get a large cooler and time how long it takes to fill the cooler. Then install the valve at the end of the hose (you will need to get a fitting from HD again - 3/4" threaded male to 3/4" hosebarb) to attach the valve to the hose. You will need to run power to the valve to make it open. Time how long it takes to fill the same cooler and then let us know. Or send it to me and I'll be happy to test it out :)

Thanks!

Al

[cab13367]

I count 5 times that the water has to turn 90 degrees before eventually going out the other end so it looks like a very restrictive design.

Sorry, 4 times.

I got excited when I first saw this also because it looked like a motorized ball valve (full port, straight thru design) but it's not that.

[stretch55]

Sorry, 4 times.

I got excited when I first saw this also because it looked like a motorized ball valve (full port, straight thru design) but it's not that.

Thats what I thought too! That would be great! But that's not the case :(

[cab13367]

Thats what I thought too! That would be great! But that's not the case :(

I called the number on the listing and talked to the guy for a while. Real nice guy. He said they are working on a motorized ball valve but it would be a few months before it's ready.

[stretch55]

I called the number on the listing and talked to the guy for a while. Real nice guy. He said they are working on a motorized ball valve but it would be a few months before it's ready.

Sounds like a good winter project then.

[tazz3069]

yes they are normal 3/ or 1" pipe thread,ebay my brothers:p

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-4-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-12-volt-DC-VITON-SEAL-B21V-/300422087689?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f28d4409


it may just be easier to use one of the switches on the consol that are not being used to activate tyhe solinoid then try to tie it in with all three fill switches.i ordered one yesterday i am hoping to have ity installed by the end of next week with results shortly there after

I had purchased that same one. It does not work. It is very restrictive. That was one of my 5 test that I did when I tore all stuff out. Actually the sprinkler valves did work, not on the boat though. My grass looks great.

[danimal95]

I had purchased that same one. It does not work. It is very restrictive. That was one of my 5 test that I did when I tore all stuff out. Actually the sprinkler valves did work, not on the boat though. My grass looks great.

that sucks,i was hope-ful.i wonder if you could use a much l;arger diameter valve say 1.5-2" and rduce it down so that the valve is not the restriction